View Full Version : Lower Ball Joint Issues
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 10:31 AM
I am in the middle of replacing both front axles, but have hit a road block. Just to add to a wonderful day, it's raining outside (and I don't have shelter), so I thought I'd take a break and ask for some advice.
To remove the drive axle out of the wheel hub I need to free the ball joint end of the control arm from the wheel hub. I have the lower ball joint nut removed, but can not for the life of get the stud out of the wheel hub.
I have 2 kinds of ball joint tools (a pickle fork and some other thing), pry bars, a hammer. I disconnected the sway bar link and even tried jacking up the wheel hub a little to help. The bastard isn't budging... :headbange
Does anyone think it would be easier just to remove the entire control arm from the other end? :ninja:
I imagine should make the ball joint stud come out easier, or even eliminate the need for it to be removed for this job (being the removal of the drive axle out of the wheel hub).
Any other tips will be appreciated.
peaandham
06-04-2014, 11:03 AM
Hahaha this is the same issue I had last weekend, you can hit the knuckle where the thread comes through, that is meant to free it but I still couldn't get it.
I disconnected where the strut meets the steering knuckle, and the tie rod arm, this allowed the hub to drop down, (I supported it with a jack) and that gave me enough room to get the axle in and out quite easily. Just if you do it that way mark where the strut meets the knuckle, the smallest difference when you put the bolts back in for the strut can make a massive different to the alignment so I forgot to mark it, so I got a new alignment.
I spent a couple hours on the ball joint because the manual told me to do it that way, I reget not doing it my way sooner.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 11:16 AM
Hahaha this is the same issue I had last weekend, you can hit the knuckle where the thread comes through, that is meant to free it but I still couldn't get it.
I disconnected where the strut meets the steering knuckle, and the tie rod arm, this allowed the hub to drop down, (I supported it with a jack) and that gave me enough room to get the axle in and out quite easily. Just if you do it that way mark where the strut meets the knuckle, the smallest difference when you put the bolts back in for the strut can make a massive different to the alignment so I forgot to mark it, so I got a new alignment.
I spent a couple hours on the ball joint because the manual told me to do it that way, I reget not doing it my way sooner.
That's clever. I might try that myself.
I've got the Haynes manual and I don't find it that useful in many cases. It's good for specifications, but not so much for procedures.
Thanks for that good advice. I'll give it a go as soon as it stops raining for 10 minutes. :facejump:
It needed a wheel alignment before I even started this job, so that was always happening.
I'm also pulling out the front struts and replacing the top bearings, spring insulator rubbers, etc. before the car will be back on the ground.
peaandham
06-04-2014, 11:42 AM
I'm also pulling out the front struts and replacing the top bearings, spring insulator rubbers, etc. before the car will be back on the ground.
Ah well disconnect strut and go for gold, I just recommend not letting the hub drop on its own weight, im not sure if it will do damage but it cant be good.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 12:16 PM
Ah well disconnect strut and go for gold, I just recommend not letting the hub drop on its own weight, im not sure if it will do damage but it cant be good.
Okay, so far so good. Axle was released using the method you told me. :clap:
Now the driver's side axle, where is meets the bracket for the intermediate shaft. What actually holds it in place?
I've checked out the new replacement one carefully and I don't see a C clip like the passenger side or anything else that would hold it in place. Does it just pull out?
Please tell me I don't need to pull out the intermediate shaft, just to replace the outer drive axle :ninja:
peaandham
06-04-2014, 12:48 PM
On the drivers side there is a compression clip is what holds the drive shaft into the intermediate shaft, to separate the two I put the drive shaft in a vice and then tapped the intermediate shaft bracket with a rubber mallet.
You dont HAVE to remove the intermediate shaft but I found it a hell of alot easier many others did too. The issue with removing the intermediate shaft is that the bolts that hold it to the block are a little tricky to get in to.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 12:54 PM
On the drivers side there is a compression clip is what holds the drive shaft into the intermediate shaft, to separate the two I put the drive shaft in a vice and then tapped the intermediate shaft bracket with a rubber mallet.
You dont HAVE to remove the intermediate shaft but I found it a hell of alot easier many others did too. The issue with removing the intermediate shaft is that the bolts that hold it to the block are a little tricky to get in to.
I just found a video of some guy online that used a flat head screw driver and hammer to knock out the shaft out. I don't particularly want to do that...
There really isn't much about removing drive axle's on the intermediate shaft side of the car on YoutTube.
I'm going to crawl back under and have another look.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 01:11 PM
There doesn't appear to be much holding the shaft in...
Also it looks like it only goes in the hole 1 or 2 ways. Notice the flat section in the splines.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hG4gSxx1Bn0/U0Dg88mRIRI/AAAAAAAAA3c/e_kdHU-iYCU/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-06+14.56.19.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W39wg-27j2A/U0Dg-S_rWUI/AAAAAAAAA3k/WZ_pL2Dtc-g/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-06+14.56.34.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-fCJPYmTT2BY/U0Dg_iob34I/AAAAAAAAA3s/98TlDSwl03c/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-06+14.56.46.jpg
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 01:25 PM
I just devised a method in my head (scary place)... :nuts:
I might get a pair of large vice grips secured around old drive axle (whilst still on vehicle) and hammer out wards with a rubber mallet.
The drive axle should pop out,...shouldn't it? :ninja:
peaandham
06-04-2014, 01:30 PM
IIRC once I removed it I saw the flat section to but I dont think it matters, I still think it can go in anyway.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 01:39 PM
IIRC once I removed it I saw the flat section to but I dont think it matters, I still think it can go in anyway.
I'm sure you are right about the flat section, but makes you wonder why they built it that way.
My method above did not work. There is no enough room to swing a hammer under the vehicle.
Looks like I might have to bite the bullet and take the bracket out like you suggested.
peaandham
06-04-2014, 02:07 PM
Looks like I might have to bite the bullet and take the bracket out like you suggested.
IIRC the bolts are 14mm, I got one off easy with a rachet spanner and the other with a 3/8" socket, there is meant to be three bolts, mine only had two.
MadMax
06-04-2014, 02:17 PM
I just devised a method in my head (scary place)... :nuts:
I might get a pair of large vice grips secured around old drive axle (whilst still on vehicle) and hammer out wards with a rubber mallet.
The drive axle should pop out,...shouldn't it? :ninja:
Nope. You will simply tear the rubber boot and the inner part of the joint will pop out of the casing.
Perhaps apply the rubber mallet to the inner bearing casing instead?
(The flat section of the splines in the photos is simply a missing spline, it allows air and whatever lube you apply to the splines to extrude past the splines so that the shaft will seat down correctly. If you look at the shaft that fits in there, you will see it is fully splined.)
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 02:19 PM
IIRC the bolts are 14mm, I got one off easy with a rachet spanner and the other with a 3/8" socket, there is meant to be three bolts, mine only had two.
Mine only has 2 bolts like yours. I can see one that should be easy to remove. I can only feel the other. I can't see or feel a third.
I'm starting to give this particular drive axle up as a joke. I'm considering doing all the other work and calling in a mechanic to do this one axle.
The almost constant rain is not helping...
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 02:22 PM
Nope. You will simply tear the rubber boot and the inner part of the joint will pop out of the casing.
Perhaps apply the rubber mallet to the inner bearing casing instead?
(The flat section of the splines in the photos is simply a missing spline, it allows air and whatever lube you apply to the splines to extrude past the splines so that the shaft will seat down correctly. If you look at the shaft that fits in there, you will see it is fully splined.)
I already gave up on my multi-grips and mallet idea, but thanks for the info. I just tried a pry bar but there is nothing to use as a fulcrum except the exhaust heat shield, which is probably a bad idea.
Thanks for the info on the flat section in the splines. I knew there had to be a reason it was made that way.
MadMax
06-04-2014, 02:26 PM
I vaguely remember that a past member got around this problem by making up a collar that fitted across the front of the inner bearing outer section, then used a slide hammer to pulse the shaft off the intermediate shaft.
A while ago I explained that I never replaced drive shafts, rather, I pulled them out but left the outer casing of the inner joint in place, then replaced the boots and grease in the two joints.
It's a much easier option. I know because I've tried exactly what you are trying to do, came across exactly the same problems, and worked out an alternative method. Might be worth considering.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 02:34 PM
I vaguely remember that a past member got around this problem by making up a collar that fitted across the front of the inner bearing outer section, then used a slide hammer to pulse the shaft off the intermediate shaft.
A while ago I explained that I never replaced drive shafts, rather, I pulled them out but left the outer casing of the inner joint in place, then replaced the boots and grease in the two joints.
It's a much easier option. I know because I've tried exactly what you are trying to do, came across exactly the same problems, and worked out an alternative method. Might be worth considering.
I remember you saying that, but I have already bought the axle now. Maybe next time I might do it the way you suggested.
I'm hoping the passenger side axle will be easier to swap out. There is no intermediate shaft to worry about on that side.
My new coil spring compressor (with safety pin) and 32mm impact socket should arrive tomorrow. At least I can do my strut bearings, etc
peaandham
06-04-2014, 04:14 PM
Keep at it, I did it all by feel, takes a bit of time but its still quite easy.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 04:35 PM
Keep at it, I did it all by feel, takes a bit of time but its still quite easy.
I'll give it another go in the morning. Hopefully the rain will stop and it will be a better day. :)
So once removed you put the drive axle in a vice and hit a mallet against the outer side of the intermediate shaft bracket to force the intermediate shaft complete with bracket off the drive axle?
Did it take much force?
peaandham
06-04-2014, 05:15 PM
Not too much force no.
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 05:16 PM
Not too much force no.
Cool, thanks :-)
knuts2au
06-04-2014, 06:03 PM
I undid the intermediate shaft mount and took the whole lot out, found it much easier that trying to ly under the car and lever and bash things to get it out. You can stick the whole thing in the vise then to separate.
PeterN
Madasacutsnake
06-04-2014, 06:07 PM
I undid the intermediate shaft mount and took the whole lot out, found it much easier that trying to ly under the car and lever and bash things to get it out. You can stick the whole thing in the vise then to separate.
PeterN
Thanks knuts2au
Madasacutsnake
07-04-2014, 09:19 AM
Woo Hoo got it out and separated!!! :facejump:
Only negative part is I bent the brass thingo on the intermediate shaft where it goes into auto trans-axle. It looks like it functions as a dust shield/cover, so I hopefully can bend it back to proper shape with a pair of pliers. :ninja:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6X7rXNfKqSg/U0H7YhsASLI/AAAAAAAAA4E/0rwzmg72O5M/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-07+08.50.53.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tVW_1GQ-h_0/U0H7fsWsLNI/AAAAAAAAA4g/AgWJMo-pUgg/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-07+11.00.44.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-F_DYMvmxWK0/U0H7h5szN2I/AAAAAAAAA4o/m_gWlKvdkKM/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-07+11.01.04.jpg
MadMax
07-04-2014, 09:35 AM
Yes, it is a dust cover. Straighten it out and trial fit it and make sure it isn't touching anything on the gearbox when you rotate it, otherwise you may get another mystery noise. lol
Madasacutsnake
07-04-2014, 09:51 AM
Yes, it is a dust cover. Straighten it out and trail fit it and make sure it isn't touching anything on the gearbox when you rotate it, otherwise you may get another mystery noise. lol
Cool, thanks MadMax :woot:
I don't need anymore mystery noises. :ninja:
Madasacutsnake
07-04-2014, 11:03 AM
At least it is kind of dry under the car. :beer:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-DIfUlbGo7Yc/U0IUak26yOI/AAAAAAAAA5I/7nqGRqnIo8E/w563-h751-no/2014-04-07+12.54.51.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q86oynGQnJU/U0IUdEC2JxI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/x7h8_CGzjC4/w1001-h751-no/2014-04-07+12.55.34.jpg
Spetz
07-04-2014, 12:25 PM
Let us know how the car feels after all that
knuts2au
08-04-2014, 04:44 PM
Nothing like an open air workshop to be "one" with nature :)
PeterN
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