Suspension on the KL is working fine, but sometimes there are some annoying clunks when going over small pot holes or rough road surface, sounds like shocks hitting stops or something. Should i be replacing any rubber bits to soften the ride up? How often should they be replaced? Is it just normal?
Or is it some other problem?

By way of comparison, when the KH was new i remember it would soak up such knocks very well, but got clunkier as it got older. So maybe some rubber bits are aging over time in the KL too?

Is it from the front?
I think with age the front strut towers degrade and start making noise

Yeah, from the front. Is there a bump stop we can replace or is it the strut internals?
I'm assuming some rubber part has degraded. If its the struts themselves then i wont worry about this, only an annoyance going over a few bumps at once, like corrugated road, or a pot hole. Its not a bang, just a clunk.

It's normally the strut tops, over time they wear down, getting thinner, not sure if you can still get new from Mitsu.
I replaced mine in my KL about three years ago, clunk disappeared after that.
I have a pic of the difference between old and new when I changed over in my ride thread somewhere.
Wouldn't hurt to change the bump stops too as the you have to take the whole strut out and pull apart to change the top over.

Here we go;

Old on right, new on left
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm329/grelise1/SDC12135.jpg (http://s316.photobucket.com/user/grelise1/media/SDC12135.jpg.html)
http://i316.photobucket.com/albums/mm329/grelise1/SDC12134.jpg (http://s316.photobucket.com/user/grelise1/media/SDC12134.jpg.html)

Grelise, did swapping these raise the car up?
And did it make the ride quality better?

No, didn't raise the car, and yes ride was heaps better as there was no clunk anymore

I've just got through replacing my front strut tops, bump stops, insulator rubbers, etc.

Monroe make strut tops, bump stops and coil spring insulator rubbers and the quality is excellent. If memory serves I got all the parts from RockAuto.

Just a tip, be careful to mark the alignment of the coil spring, strut and top plate to assist reassembly. I neglected to do this on the driver's side and reinstalled it incorrectly, which resulted in a lot of clunking noises as the top plate hit on the upper inside of the guard at times. Easily fixed but it was a pain in having to go through the process again.

There are also line up holes on the top and bottom spring seats, but marking is also good. As long as the spring seats line up, then it will be fine, the strut top swivels on the shock top.

I managed to orientate the top plate the wrong way around on the spring. I worked out that the top plate has 4 holes in it, where one hole is larger then the others. That one goes towards the open wheel arch (I guess for better drainage).

The bottom spring seat on the strut has a similar sized hole, these are what line up

The bottom spring seat on the strut has a similar sized hole, these are what line up

Cool, you learn something everyday :)

No, didn't raise the car, and yes ride was heaps better as there was no clunk anymore

I hear clunking in my car but don't feel it.
Would my ride get better do you think from getting new strut tops?

If they are the original strut top on the car then yes

At what distance traveled do the strut tops normally start to degrade?

How long is a piece of string? Rubber degrades over time regardless. Also depends on types of roads travelled and how the vehicle is driven. Distance travelled is only one of many factors.

I can appreciate what you are saying, which applies to almost every aspect of vehicle repairs.

Hopefully, AMC members who have carried out this procedure on Third Gen. Magna's may be able to respond with specific examples of when they have carried out this repair.

All other things being equal, the distance traveled should be the most reliable indicator of when such a repair becomes necessary, but which will vary somewhat as per what you noted.

I replaced the ones on the sedan when lowered springs and new struts were fitted, at 232,000km.
They weren't necessarily in need of replacement as they weren't excessively worn or knocking, but rather they were the original ones and killing two birds with one stone appealed more than ripping struts out again.

The wagon is at 218,000km and has been lowered by the previous owner, however I don't believe they have been replaced, nor do they show signs of requiring replacement.

In my AWD a month or so back I had clunking and s sort of crack noises, I even felt it through the brake pedal, ended up being the crossmember bolts a little loose, my mechanic rattled them up with a 3/4 impact gun. Been great ever since.

Mine has a creak noise going over speed humps getting out of driveways. Could this also be the strut tops or more likely the actual strut. It seems to be drivers side front. I don't think struts have been replaced and car is at 160,000.

Mine has a creak noise going over speed humps getting out of driveways. Could this also be the strut tops or more likely the actual strut. It seems to be drivers side front. I don't think struts have been replaced and car is at 160,000.

You may also want to consider checking your control arm bushes and your swaybar bushes.

Mine has a creak noise going over speed humps

That is almost sure to be the sway bar bushes - nothing to worry about - cheap to buy - pain to fit

Here is a how-to guide:

[DIY] Front Swaybar D Bushes

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87840

My recommendation is to use Superpro products, which is what it looks like "Grelise" has used in his guide.

http://www.superpro.com.au/?v=mitsubishi-magna-tl,-tw-2003-2005/999500951

Replacing the control arm bushes, if necessary, are somewhat more difficult and would be a job for the mechanical workshop.

I replaced the ones on the sedan when lowered springs and new struts were fitted, at 232,000km.
They weren't necessarily in need of replacement as they weren't excessively worn or knocking, but rather they were the original ones and killing two birds with one stone appealed more than ripping struts out again.

The wagon is at 218,000km and has been lowered by the previous owner, however I don't believe they have been replaced, nor do they show signs of requiring replacement.

Thanks for that information.

Has anyone else with TJ/TL/TW needed to replace them at a lower kilometer figure?

In my AWD a month or so back I had clunking and s sort of crack noises, I even felt it through the brake pedal, ended up being the crossmember bolts a little loose, my mechanic rattled them up with a 3/4 impact gun. Been great ever since.

Since purchase 2 weeks ago, I have noticed a small rattle that I can feel through the steering wheel over sharp bumps, like when running over a cats eye or small sections of purposely uneven brick pavement in suburban shopping areas acting as speed bumps/pedestrian crossings.

I have heard the term referred to as "rack rattle" - possible loose rack to crossmember bolts - which is possibly a different condition than loose xmember bolts themselves.

Has anyone else experienced this before?

Best to go over all the suspension parts, when we tightened up everything underneath there was only a few bolts tight. Guess that will happen in time with vibrations etc. The noise in my AWD front end could also be described as a rack rattle. The worst bolts for looseness was the aluminium housing to chassis bolts. Did not make noise all the time though, under braking, over some bumps and acclearating from stand still sometimes.

Thanks for that information.

Has anyone else with TJ/TL/TW needed to replace them at a lower kilometer figure?

Answering my own question, "Grelise" replaced his @115,000km:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59728&p=1177910&viewfull=1#post1177910

Mine has done 153,000km and needs new strut inserts, so I might as well get the strut tops done at the same time.

If the strut tops are collapsing will that make minor bumps feel harsher?

The strut top is actually one end of the chain.

The other end would be the lower control arm bushes(and radius rod bush), which mainly deal with side or fore and aft loads.

The strut top looks after the vertical loads so yes, bumps(big and small) will feel harsher if the strut tops are losing their ability to transfer loads(bumps) to the chassis via the strut tower..

In my AWD a month or so back I had clunking and s sort of crack noises, I even felt it through the brake pedal, ended up being the crossmember bolts a little loose, my mechanic rattled them up with a 3/4 impact gun. Been great ever since.


Since purchase 2 weeks ago, I have noticed a small rattle that I can feel through the steering wheel over sharp bumps, like when running over a cats eye or small sections of purposely uneven brick pavement in suburban shopping areas acting as speed bumps/pedestrian crossings.

I have heard the term referred to as "rack rattle" - possible loose rack to crossmember bolts - which is possibly a different condition than loose xmember bolts themselves.

Has anyone else experienced this before?

This small problem has been fixed when I installed my new front sway bar "D" bushes today.

I can still hear some noise, but the sharp feeling through the steering wheel has been cut down greatly.

Best to go over all the suspension parts, when we tightened up everything underneath there was only a few bolts tight. Guess that will happen in time with vibrations etc. The noise in my AWD front end could also be described as a rack rattle. The worst bolts for looseness was the aluminium housing to chassis bolts. Did not make noise all the time though, under braking, over some bumps and acclearating from stand still sometimes.
What about the torque settings for all those bolts, are they listed somewhere?

Not sure about torque settings. It has been a few months now since they were tightened and still quiet as a mouse. Used a 3/4 rattle gun to tighten bolts if that helps.

Are Monroe strut tops decent quality to use?
Or should we aim for OEM?

I believe Monroe are the OEM supplier for Magna/Diamante.

Yeah for the shocks themselves, but what about the strut tops?

The strut tops are what I was referring to.

I see, it would make sense.
Can anyone confirm?

I've just ordered 2 x "902914" from here:

http://oziespares.com.au/25738-902914.html

@ $33.60 each.

I think that's a very good price, as long as they are Monroe parts and not some "no name" brand.

When I get them(early next week), I will confirm.

Payment was made via PayPal, so if they are not "as described" as per the website and as per my 'phone conversation with the seller, at least I have some protection.

That's the top mounts for the front?
How much was shipping?

Yes, that's front strut top mounts - triangular, 3 bolts, circular bearing etc.

Just like in post # 5 of the thread we are in now:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103555&p=1606642&viewfull=1#post1606642

No shipping(do the "add to cart" thing to calculate shipping).

The selling store is located in Fairfield, 2165.

I am collecting in person on Monday to make sure they are correct, i.e. genuine Monroe not generic brand.

When are you fitting them on?
Please keep us updated with the brand they turn out to be and how they change the car once fitted.

My suspension feels somewhat stiff, in the sense that small bumps are felt quite a bit (eg, those cat eye markers on the road really jar the cabin) and I was suspecting maybe the top mounts are sagged at 204,000km.
At the same time high speed bumps give a floaty type of feeling.
I did the bounce test front and back, and the rear seems pretty spot on, the front also didn't seem too bad oddly enough.

I will post about these strut top mounts when I get them next week.

Hopefully, they will be "as described" by the seller.

I am waiting to see how my new rear sway bar turns out purchased from Selby Suspension Nowra, and if good, I will order some new Sachs front struts from him.

My new rear bar is still 2 weeks away.

Then I will fit the new struts and strut mounts.

I will be staying with the old, standard height, springs.

New rear dampers will have to wait awhile, as I have just reregistered both my cars this month - then there are 4 new tyres next month.

The new Superpro sway bar "D" bushes I just fitted to the front earlier this week have improved the ride, and the handling at the same time.

Sharp, "cat's eye" bumps are less intrusive, even though the new bush material is harder than the original Mitsubishi rubber that I replaced.

Go figure.

How much does Selby sell the Sachs struts for?

What is the address of this ozie parts store? Can you also ask how many they have left of those strut tops and if they sell struts for the 3rd gen when you're there on Monday?
I may buy those strut tops too

Selby - It will be about the same as the ebay seller of them, but possibly less if I also buy the rears at the same time.

Ozie - The address is in the link I posted earlier- post #38.

Contact us

Ozie Spares

Fairfield:
Shops 4-6/181 Sackville Street,
Fairfield NSW 2165

9725 7908

They link to both Monroe and KYB

Monroe struts

35-0534(drivers side) and 35-0535(passenger side)

suit TJ/TL/TW (and earlier as well)

http://oziespares.com.au/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=35-0534&submit_search=Search

$137.10 +GST each side

The Sachs struts I am looking at at Selby won't be much more than this - less than $200 each.

I won't be home from Sydney until Tuesday night - I will update then.

Did you get a quote from Selby as well for the struts?

I am undecided whether to change my struts or not. My main reason for changing them is comfort, as the handling at the moment is not bad and certainly is more than good enough for what I use the car for

I picked up the strut top mounts yesterday, part # 902914 as per Monroe catalog and they are Monroe brand.

Due to no image on the Ozie Spares website, I was half expecting to be "stiched up" with some kind of junk "no name" part.

I was hoping that they would be Australian or USA made, but they are made in Taiwan, and they have a Japanese made bearing.

http://i61.tinypic.com/2edyybn.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/15i6tkk.jpg

All the best with them have replaced several sets of these for genuine when the rubber has let go nearly sending a strut through the bonnet

I'll take your advice on board.

Can you, or any other AMC member, tell me how much are genuine units, or KYB, or a brand that is known to be acceptable?

I rang Repco, who wanted $245 EACH for Kelpro brand.

I'm sure he would have given me a better price if I pressed him, but I just left it there.