Oil leaking from all 6 spark plug holes, all of them about 3cm deep in oil, No smoke blowing from exhaust, not down on power, plugs are NGK BKR5EIX-11 changed at 135,000kms car has about 180,000kms....

Has anyone had this problem and know what causes it?

Inside spark plugs are in ok-good condition (no oily residu)



Im waiting on:

6 ngk spark plugs
6 oem spark plug tube seal
2 oem valve cover gaskets
1 oem intake manifold gasket

Im going to need the follwing to complete the job proper:

Spark plug gap tool
Anti seize
Dielectric lube
Sockets and torque wrench
Carby cleaner (to clean intake manifold properly)

This is so i can do the job properly and not miss anything...would i need anything else?


thanks

Done this job on my old 380.
Sounds like your spark plug tube seals are leaking, so all you need from that list are new tube seals.
But once you remove the rocker covers you'll need need new rocker cover gaskets anyway, as the original ones will probably be hard and brittle and stuck.
Mal (Mitsfix, Madmagna) sells the kits you need - gaskets & tube seals - at a good price, so that's what I would go for.
With the new spark plugs, no need to stuff about with gapping them, they are already set at the correct gap, so forget the gapping tool.
You also don't need a new (upper) intake manifold gasket unless the original has been damaged , they are steel and reuseable.

As above, caused by collapsed and hardened spark plug tube seals.
If there is a lot of oil down the plug tube, get a syringe (from chemist) and tight fitting plastic tube, and suck as much of the oil out as you can. You don't want that oil plus any dirt flowing into the cylinders when you pull the spark plugs out.

If the spark plug leads are badly swollen where they have been oil contaminated, you may need a new set of leads too.

I concur with the good advice from MadMax and TreeAdeyMan.

The only thing I can add is take your time with the valve cover seals particularly the rear one to make sure they are placed correctly. The rear one is hard to see properly when fitting and will leak if not aligned correctly. Just take your time and get it right.

Also torquing the valve covers down is very very important. Most people tend to over-torque the bolts (thinking tighter is better), which is sure to cause oil leaks. The torque setting for the valve covers is a tiny 3.5Nm. I bought a bicycle torque wrench specifically for the job as my regular car ones didn't go that low.

The above advice is for the 6G74 motor. I believe you will have the 6G75, although I doubt there would be much difference.

I just had CEL come on, could this be the cause?

I just had CEL come on, could this be the cause?

Unlikely.
But get yourself an OBD2 reader (cheap as on Fleabay) if you haven't already got one and read the code(s).
Otherwise you could end up wasting a lot of time and money chasing the wrong fix or the wrong problem.
This page has a good list of error codes: http://www.myscantool.com/dtc/powertrain.html

Unlikely.
But get yourself an OBD2 reader (cheap as on Fleabay) if you haven't already got one and read the code(s).
Otherwise you could end up wasting a lot of time and money chasing the wrong fix or the wrong problem.
This page has a good list of error codes: http://www.myscantool.com/dtc/powertrain.html



could u give me a link off ebay of an obd2 scanner that u know works on the 380??

thanks

Hi, I also would like to know of a link of a obd2 scanner that for sure works on a 380 any help would be great THANKS

Does anyone know if Part Number MD198128 are the spark plug tube seals needed?

And does anyone know the torque specs of the valve covers? someone said 3.5nm but i truly think that is just finger tight.....can anyone confirm asap


thanks

The only thing I can add is take your time with the valve cover seals particularly the rear one to make sure they are placed correctly. The rear one is hard to see properly when fitting and will leak if not aligned correctly. Just take your time and get it right.

Also torquing the valve covers down is very very important. Most people tend to over-torque the bolts (thinking tighter is better), which is sure to cause oil leaks. The torque setting for the valve covers is a tiny 3.5Nm. I bought a bicycle torque wrench specifically for the job as my regular car ones didn't go that low.

The above advice is for the 6G74 motor. I believe you will have the 6G75, although I doubt there would be much difference.


Does anyone know if Part Number MD198128 are the spark plug tube seals needed?

And does anyone know the torque specs of the valve covers? someone said 3.5nm but i truly think that is just finger tight.....can anyone confirm asap
thanks

The information in Madasacutsnake's post is correct. 3.5 Nm is correct. You need to do 2 or 3 laps with the torque wrench to get it all down correctly.

Do not try to re-use the original rocker cover gaskets. Get the kit with gasket + 3 tube seals. Get 2 of those.

Hi, I also would like to know of a link of a obd2 scanner that for sure works on a 380 any help would be great THANKS

OBD2 scanner, Fleabay link, $19.99, free postage, I bought the exact same one a few months ago, worked perfectly on my 380 (and now my Jag), what's not to like?
AU Car Engine Fault Diagnostic Scanner Auto Code Reader OBD2 Scan Tool MS300 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-Car-Engine-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Auto-Code-Reader-OBD2-Scan-Tool-MS300-/111215822732?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e4fac78c)

I bought the JayCar version about 4 years ago for around $200 IIRC, I threw it in with the sale of my 380 so I bought another one just before I handed over the car. Other than the colour (Jaycar one was orange, the Fleabay one is red), they appear to be identical. At 1/10 the price it's a no-brainer.

OBD2 scanner, Fleabay link, $19.99, free postage

AU Car Engine Fault Diagnostic Scanner Auto Code Reader OBD2 Scan Tool MS300 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-Car-Engine-Fault-Diagnostic-Scanner-Auto-Code-Reader-OBD2-Scan-Tool-MS300-/111215822732?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e4fac78c)


Looks like a good one. Much better than the smaller versions that need to connect to a phone by bluetooth.
As far as I know, these read engine fault codes only, ie can't read ABS/traction control codes, gearbox codes, nor can they clear them.

Flame me if this is wrong. lol

Yep, pretty much all they do is read and/or clear fault codes. Mainly engine fault codes and a few others, but by no means the complete range of fault codes. Most can also read your VIN.
They have nowhere near the functionality of something like an UltraGauge.
But they are a quick and easy (and cheap) way of reading nearly all engine related fault codes (which as we know the 380 ECU is very fond of throwing), and if you then check the code(s) per the web page I linked earlier, you have a pretty good idea of what has caused the CEL to come on.
Of course if in doubt or it seems to be a serious problem, you should take the car to a dealer (or Mal!) and get it checked over with one of their MUT11 (is it is MUT111 now?) diagnostic machines.

Thanks for the clarification.
Still a useful tool to have.

Thankyou Guys, Very much appreciated Cheers

thank u

Looks like a good one. Much better than the smaller versions that need to connect to a phone by bluetooth.
As far as I know, these read engine fault codes only, ie can't read ABS/traction control codes, gearbox codes, nor can they clear them.

Flame me if this is wrong. lol

Yep...gotta be careful with these cheap scanners, they often spit out a generic code that can send you on the wrong track.

They certainly can't clear airbag codes, such as when someone takes out the seat and forgets to plug it back in.

does anyone know the oem part number for the intake manifold gasket and oem intake breather hose from valve cover to intake hose after maf sensor...need help asap

Use at own risk. Dealership will be the most accurate basd on VIN .

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/part/market/general/model/52U/submdl/DL1A/classif/SNHERJ/exterior//group/15/subgroup/210/clid/1

http://mitsubishi.ilcats.ru/part/market/general/model/52U/submdl/DL1A/classif/SNHERJ/exterior//group/11/subgroup/110/clid/1

IIRC the intake manifold gasket is around $35 from a stealership, and they usually have them in stock in the spare parts section. Not much more $ and much less risk than buying over Fleabay or non-OEM.

thanks boys

Haven't been on this forum in a while and was researching problems with the 380 (looking at buying an '07 VRX) and saw this thread. Could it be as simple as the PCV valve is blocked and causing excessive crank case pressure? I've read that oil leaks can be caused by this. It is often overlooked.

Haven't been on this forum in a while and was researching problems with the 380 (looking at buying an '07 VRX) and saw this thread. Could it be as simple as the PCV valve is blocked and causing excessive crank case pressure? I've read that oil leaks can be caused by this. It is often overlooked.

Nah pcv valve is fine, I clean it out every oil change....It turned out to be because of my oil catch can, (it was building pressure inside and NOT allowing the air flow to circulate naturally as it should )....I used after market seals too and the way I drive blew out all my oil seals....


So i got rid of the catch can, replaced all seals with genuine OEM ones, new plugs, torqed everything down to spec and NO MORE LEAKS.....But now I have a issue with my hydraulic lifters.....(again I thrash the living day lights out of mine)




There good cars solid built and fun to drive....., you just need to find one that has been log book serviced and did not miss out on any major servicing changes (like timing belts, spark plugs etc....).....Either by the dealer or a reputable work shop.....I made the mistake of buying a neglected 380 and had to fix allot of things up on it....but hey I love the bloody car


Will be going supercharged and forged sometime down the track