Hi,

I purchased a 3/8in drive torque wrench (6.8 - 108.5 Nm) from Bunnings after I read several posts on here that Kincrome were a good brand. I got it specifically for using with the Nm scale as the workshop manual has everything in Nm.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/kincrome-3-8in-drive-torque-wrench-80ft-lb-mtw80f_p6100366

After getting it home a couldn't get my head round how to actually set the exact Nm value so something like 18 which is used on a few bolts on the intake Manifold. I read the instructions, watched youtube videos and still no luck. I can work out how to use the Ft-lb scale on the other side no problem but I don't want to have to calculate in my head the conversion between Nm - Ft-lb.

Here's the link to the pdf instructions on the kincrome site.

https://www.kincrome.com.au/documents%5CMTW80F_1.pdf

I'm positive the example value of 26.77Nm is a misprint because it doesn't add up correctly

Also the fine scale has 0 1 2 3 4 0 1 2 3 4 which is odd as all the other torque wrench's online are 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

I'm not a total plank as yesterday I took it back to Bunnings and asked two guys in the Tools section if they could explain how it works. Both agreed it was pretty odd and the best way would be to convert to Ft-lb. One said he would ask the rep next time he's in.

They said I can return it for a refund but the only other tool around that price is the ToolPro Torque Wrench - 3/8" Drive from Supercheapauto

Has anyone else succeeded in understanding the instructions?

Cheers,

Andrew

I've got the identical looking torque wrench, but half inch drive, it is simple to use.
Unlock the knob at the bottom, turn to the nearest mark to what you want, then add a few numbers on the scale to get to what you want, lock bottom knob.

If your fine scale is for ft.lb only, you will need to convert. Sounds like the fine scale has been marked incorrectly.

On mine, the ft.lb scale goes 10, 20, etc up to 150.
The m.kg scale goes 1.4, 2.8 etc up to 20.7 (equals 14 to 207 N.m)

The fine scale goes 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 0, 2, 4, 6, 8 around one full turn.

Yea it's the little knob on the bottom that you have to undo/do up tight again after you've set the desired level. I've had mine for 5+ years. Still good.

Thanks for the replies.

Yes both the scales are on the shaft. ft.lb on one side and Nm on the other side. As mentioned the ft.lb is easy to work with as I just rotate the fine scale and pretend that the markers 0 1 2 3 4 0 1 2 3 4 are actually 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10.

I only purchased it to use the Nm scale but it's beyond the knowledge of myself and the two guys in the Bunnings tool section how to set up and accurate Nm setting. I've just taken two pics and and attached to this post as it may help in my explanation. Both show the Newton Metric but at slightly different angles. The ft.lb is on the complete opposite side.


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/conanthedestroya222/01_zpsa2cc895f.jpg

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/conanthedestroya222/02_zps0027bf26.jpg


Here's the notes in the pdf


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/conanthedestroya222/04_zpsd3d102c2.jpg


and here's the example showing a setting of 26.77


http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/conanthedestroya222/03_zpsaebb764f.jpg


The options when using Nm seem to be to have only an 'approx' value which is not acceptable for me as I'm only buying it for it's accuracy or to convert to ft.lb which isn't practical.

The ToolPro Torque Wrench - 3/8" Drive from Supercheapauto, here's a shot of the fine scale and settings which looks more user friendly than having 6.8, 13.6, 20.4, 27.1 etc. like on the Kincrome model ?

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a548/conanthedestroya222/toolpro_zps55691f89.jpg

Thanks.

There's always the digital type.
http://www.checkline.com/products/126156/free_pict2.jpg

Mine's basically the same. The numbers on the rotating scale are not incorrect, the FT/LB scale on the shaft runs in increments of 5, so half a rotation of the handle (0 thru 1,2,3,4 to the second 0) should wind it up 5 FT/LB. 2 full revolutions is 10 FT/LB. In other words, you add the number on the rotating scale to the number on the shaft to set the torque. Unfortunately, due to how FT/LB converts to Nm, it isn't possible with this wrench's design to make the rotating scale match neatly to the Nm scale, which is why the instructions indicate that, when setting Nm, the rotating scale is 1.356 Nm per calibration.

The example given in Nm is actually correct. The coarse Nm calibration below the rotating scale is 20.4, with the rotating scale showing 4.7. Multiplying 4.7 x 1.356 to convert the scale, and adding to the coarse scale's 20.4, gives 26.7732. It may be correct, but it's a total waste of bloody time including the Nm scale on the shaft because who the hell can work that crap out in the garage?? I know my toolbox doesn't include a calculator.

Mine came with a more comprehensive conversion table, it includes the same FT/LB - Nm - Kgm conversion as on your PDF but also has columns for the other direction, ie. discrete Nm settings like 20, 25, 30 etc. converted to the other scales. My best advice would be to make up a table of this sort, converting the common Nm settings into FT/LB for setting the wrench. I would not use the Nm scale on the wrench as the numbers are too confusing to crunch and you don't want to get them wrong, converting to FT/LB would be easier and more accurate (it's what I do).

Thanks again for the replies.

The digital models way too expensive for my limited use ;-)

The whole Nm scale certainly is confusing and I'm surprised it's actually on there given that the idea of getting a torque wrench in the first place is for accuracy. it was also the range of this model that made it seem attractive as 6.8 - 108.5 Nm covers most situations in the workshop manual and reduce the need to buy an additional wrench.

Because of this range perhaps its better to keep it and put up with the damn conversions and as mentioned create a table for the common conversions.

All this just because I wanted to change the rear platinum spark plugs myself. I've never owned a car that has three of the plugs cover by a manifold so not easily accessible. :headbange

The plenum chamber covering the rear bank does seem like a rather poor engineering solution, to be honest. I've always thought it could have been done differently but presumably there's a good reason for it, such as the length of the intake pipes being tuned to a critical length or something :confused:. At least the platinum's last for ages so you won't need to do it often. On that subject, while it's all off is a good time to replace rear valve cover and plug tube seals. There's a bunch of topics and posts on the subject on this site that are worth reading if this is something you'll be doing.

The plenum chamber covering the rear bank does seem like a rather poor engineering solution, to be honest. I've always thought it could have been done differently but presumably there's a good reason for it, such as the length of the intake pipes being tuned to a critical length or something :confused:.
There is an issue with the intake runners which has resulted in this design: longer runners produce better torque at low revs than shorter runners. With a 90° V engine, there's more room between the banks for the runners to be wrapped around the plenum chamber to give the length while being compact.
This Autospeed article (http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107771) gives an overview of the topic...

Fascinating article, explains a lot. Thanks WytWun.

Thought I'd upload this pdf I just created in case anyone else is in the same boat and needs to convert Nm to ft/lb without causing rapid loss of brain cells.

Two tables with conversions each way so just print out the pages and keep in the torque wrench container


https://www.dropbox.com/s/9degnhw66ux8eyw/Nm_ftlb_conversion.pdf


Ensoniq5 - regarding the rear plug tube seals, I just drove to the Mitsubishi dealer here in Wangara (WA) and they were charging $65.00 just for 3 of them so I polity declined. I changed the front 3 plugs last week and the tubes look fine so if there's anything wrong with the rear ones I'll just switch for now.

I know supercheap sell them for $6.50 each but not sure how durable they are plus I temporarily live in WA and have one more year left of 'Sorry we don't have that in stock, you'll have to have it shipped from out east' :facepalm