im quite stumped here with the problem..

i did search older posts and tried various stuff
situation is.. blower fan stopped and no reaction to settings

i removed the fan and tested on other battery , fan is fine
i tested all the relays by plugging them into high beam socket and flicked on and off, also tested ohmage externally

there is power at the fan plug but weirdly that power doesnt run anything.. even if i plug a little bulb to it, it doesnt light up.. yet multimeter reads battery voltage at the end of cable..
the voltage does not change in relation to the speed setting, (i dunno if it should or not)
fan does not operate while plugged no matter what the speed setting is
i also visually checked all fuses

any ideas guys ?

ps: one thing came to me now, is i have been using hot air for last few days, its one thing i rarely do.. i recall reading some resistors being placed in the airway, is it possible that resistor/s might have popped due to this ?

Not 100% sure but there might be a singal as well, so even though there's power it only runs when needed. That is, if this is the second fan we're talking about. Which only comes on at a certain temp.

If that temp isn't being reached, or it's saying it's not reaching that temp, the thermostat could be broken or faulty :/ Just mothballing....

Not 100% sure but there might be a singal as well, so even though there's power it only runs when needed. That is, if this is the second fan we're talking about. Which only comes on at a certain temp.

If that temp isn't being reached, or it's saying it's not reaching that temp, the thermostat could be broken or faulty :/ Just mothballing....

this is the fan underneath the glove compartment.
i think it should run regardless of the temp etc.. i dont have the climate control etc.. just basic type

The fan speed switch switches the fan's earth circuit through a series of resistors (green/white wire), the power side (blue wire) won't change by selecting different speeds. You should be able to check the resistor pack with your multimeter, measuring a decreasing resistance across the green/white wire and a body earth as you switch from low to high speeds, but I don't think that's where your problem lies from your description of the problem. Power is sourced via a 30A fuse in the junction box (above driver's foot), and both the 60A and 120A fusible links (which should be fine, a whole bunch of other stuff would be inoperative if either were blown). If the 30A is blown or not seated properly your multimeter might be detecting a residual current from a shared earth, or something, with bugger all amps available to power the fan (or a lamp). If the fuse and relay (also in junction box) are definitely ok then I dunno, maybe a dodgy connection somewhere?

The fan speed switch switches the fan's earth circuit through a series of resistors (green/white wire), the power side (blue wire) won't change by selecting different speeds. You should be able to check the resistor pack with your multimeter, measuring a decreasing resistance across the green/white wire and a body earth as you switch from low to high speeds, but I don't think that's where your problem lies from your description of the problem. Power is sourced via a 30A fuse in the junction box (above driver's foot), and both the 60A and 120A fusible links (which should be fine, a whole bunch of other stuff would be inoperative if either were blown). If the 30A is blown or not seated properly your multimeter might be detecting a residual current from a shared earth, or something, with bugger all amps available to power the fan (or a lamp). If the fuse and relay (also in junction box) are definitely ok then I dunno, maybe a dodgy connection somewhere?

thank you for the detailed response
i checked the 30 amp fuses in driver side again this time removing them and reseating back properly
doesnt seem to change anything.
i dunno how to check the relay in there, i can try to give it a shot tomorrow.
as for the residual voltage, do you think somehow my resistor board might be buggered in an unusual way, that it does release tiny amount of current ?
i wanted to remove it today to fiddle around, but the darn upper screw is behind a metal bar, and didnt have the time to dissect the glove compartment to get to it.. " honestly i dont understand why they have to always make it difficult on purpose.. bloody thing could be designed in 998209384 different ways that it could be unscrewed with heaps less trouble "

as for the connections.. i am not sure..
nothing was changed or moved or tampered with.. she has been a swiss clock with nearly no dramas at all.. yet i wouldnt know.. maybe some connections under the fuse panels might have corroded etc.. i will visit these areas once more major possibilities are ruled out.

I can't see the resistor pack being the issue, since it is on the earth side of the fan and the fault seems to be with your power supply, but it's worth checking. I've never taken one out of this model but I feel your pain... I swear when they make these cars (and many others) they start with the heater/cooler and build the car around it! There's two relays in the junction box, the upper one's the blower relay and the lower is the rear demister. Maybe try swapping them over to see if there's any change.

I can't see the resistor pack being the issue, since it is on the earth side of the fan and the fault seems to be with your power supply, but it's worth checking. I've never taken one out of this model but I feel your pain... I swear when they make these cars (and many others) they start with the heater/cooler and build the car around it! There's two relays in the junction box, the upper one's the blower relay and the lower is the rear demister. Maybe try swapping them over to see if there's any change.

bingo !!
swapping the upper and lower relay at driver side fusebox did the job.
it looks like the relay is buggered

thanks a ton mate :)

For starters you are talking about inside fan, checking relays in the engine bay and high beam relays will do nothing

99% of the time is the blower resistor pack, we sell these as fast as we can get them as they are getting old and starting to fail

additional update,
i pulled apart the buggered relay and inspected inside,
no spark or anything bad, it seemed like a there is a tiny black thingy stuck on the side part of two copper pieces thats supposed to click together (maybe thats where the residual voltage was passing thru)
it blew away with a shot of compressed air.. i sprayed some cleaner, dried it out, plugged back now on the rear window heater ( i rarely use that anyways) and the relay now works fine.
god knows what it was.. it didnt seem like an electrical arc burn or anything.. could even be a tiny bug shit stuck there...(ahh now i got it.. there are these tiny tiny ants in the area, that keep getting inside the car.. probably one of these tiny buggers find its way there and got charred up when relay clicked leaving the thing there ) i ll still resource one when i can just to play safe.

Madmagna thanks for the info as well..
seeing the fan icons on the outside fuse box index made me think these can be related.. we re learning the proper terminology and where to check as we go i guess :)

Wow! So you actually had a bug in the system! As a computer geek I find that kinda funny :) I've had those little ants in my car before too, they used to run around the dashboard before I sprayed Baygon behind there (carefully) but they never caused anything to blow. Also funny that ants apparently function quite well as a resistor...worth remembering, never know when that info could come in handy!

Wow! So you actually had a bug in the system! As a computer geek I find that kinda funny :) I've had those little ants in my car before too, they used to run around the dashboard before I sprayed Baygon behind there (carefully) but they never caused anything to blow. Also funny that ants apparently function quite well as a resistor...worth remembering, never know when that info could come in handy!

yea .. tell me about it :)
i actually regret,, i should have pulled the macro lens out and get a nice shot of how it was stuck there, but i didnt think of a bug right away.. actualy thinking now, there was another tiny black piece on the plastic couple mm away from the stuck part.
prolly the poor bugger got split in two and one part got stuck between the metal .. RIP the ant
i guess every organic material, dead or alive has a level of conductivity :)

now it made me remember a movie, where evil ants were forming live ant chains to block a generator motor, and attacking ppl
OMG :)