Just been studying the factory manual in preperation for changing my timing belt. I need to make a tool to push the oil seals in. Does anyone have some diamensions for it (thread size, length etc)? Also why is the left bank different from the right?

Other tool I need to make is something to hold the cam sprockets whilst removing/tighting the bolt. Anyone with diamensions?

Last question is about the crank bolt. The torque is 180Nm which is a lot. Will the engine try to turn when I tighten this up, how would I hold it? Could it be done with a rattle gun or is that too rough?

The camshaft oil seals can usually be pushed in by hand so no real need for a specific tool. Both cam seals are the same so not sure what you mean when you ask why the left bank is different to the right. Cam sprocket bolts can be loosened before removing the cam belt. To hold the cam sprockets steady for tightening I use a large, approx 40cm long, truck style oil filter wrench to grip a piece of the old belt wrapped around the cam sprocket.
Note 1: Take care not to damage the sprocket teeth in case the wrench chews through the rubber & bites the sprocket.
Rattle gun is a bit rough. When tightening the crank bolt I use a length of angle iron with a hole cut out to fit a socket/1/2" drive for the crank bolt and fitted with two pins/bolts which locate in the damper pulley. Rotate pulley till angle iron contacts the ground then tighten to 180Nm.
Note 2: If possible insert retainer pin in hydraulic tensioner before removing belt so as to prevent tensioner travelling to full extension
Double check timing marks are aligned correctly when finished as the valve springs may rotate the cams slightly during reassembly
Cheers

I have a Rigid strap wrench amongst my work tools which should be ok for holding the cam sprockets. Might put a bit of rubber under the bite point for a little more protection Strap wrench (https://www.ridgid.com/au/en/strap-wrenches)

Have you got any pics or sizes for the angle iron to hold the crank pulley?

I found out the left camshaft is longer due to the cylinder banks being offset for the width of a connecting rod and counter balance. I want to make a tool for pushing the seals in nice and evenly. Is there much room between the end of the camshaft and the body to get the tool over the camshaft? The fact the manual shows a 2 peice tool for the left bank leads me to beleave there is not.

Angle iron dimensions are as follows:

Original sizings: 65mm x 65mm x 4mm thick x 600mm long
I trimmed the length of one edge to approx 32mm wide for a length of 470mm then trimmed the remaining 130mm length down to the thickness of the material ie: 4mm
I then used the 65mm width section with the 32mm wide side edge to locate the pins/socket hole.
For the 2 locating bolts I used magna wheel studs & ground down the diameter, at the non threaded end, to ensure a snug fit in the crank pulley holes. I then welded 2 magna wheel nuts to the angle iron which allows me to adjust the length of the studs to suit the depth of the holes in the pulley.

Have emailed you the pics

For replacing the camshaft oil seals I usually push/tap on a piece of softwood pine with a hole in centre for the camshaft end to pass through. I usually put this up against one of the old seals (fitted in reverse) which in turn is pushes the new seal into position so yes there is room for a tool.

Cheers
Peter

Thanks for that. I shall make one at work.

Another question after talking to work mate, do I need a puller to get the harmonic balancer off?

The only time you'll need a puller is if moisture has gotten between the crank snout and the balancer and there's a bit of corrosion in there. Most of the ones I've done have slid off nicely. They are a clearance fit.

Another question after talking to work mate, do I need a puller to get the harmonic balancer off?

No but getting the harmonic balancer bolt undone can be hard - even big rattle guns aren't enough sometimes.

I'm borrowing a heavy duty battery powered rattle gun which should get it off easily. Might have trouble getting it upto 180nm again.

Hopefully it will come off with that rattle gun.
I've used 1 inch rattle guns before to get balancers off Honda's.
Another method is to wedge a breaker bar to the ground, chassis or control arm and flick the ignition quickly. Never had a problem with this method on my magna.

Funny, our Snap On 1/2 inch gun has never failed