Hi Guys, I have a 2003 Magna TL that has a split outer rubber boot that may have occurred during strut change. To replace this boot, does the whole assembly need to come off, or does the boot slip onto the shaft?

The CV joint needs to come off from the shaft.

When mine split I just picked up a new driveshaft from bursons for about $140, the shaft is already assembled, just need to remove the old one and put the new one in. Takes less time that just replacing the CV boot and checking the joint for wear.

What side is it?

Drivers side shaft is easy to replace, however it connects to another shaft called the "intermediate shaft" which then goes into the gearbox, it is easy to remove the drive shaft and intermediate shaft from the car and then disconnect those two shafts out of the car.

The passenger side drive shaft although there is no intermediate shaft can be a little bit trickier to remove it from the gearbox.

I usually dismantle the driveshafts and replace all 4 boots, if one goes (always an outer) the others are soon to follow.
Last job cost me all of $60.

To answer the question - yes, the boot slips on, but you have to do a few other things first.

The CV joint needs to come off from the shaft.

When mine split I just picked up a new driveshaft from bursons for about $140, the shaft is already assembled, just need to remove the old one and put the new one in. Takes less time that just replacing the CV boot and checking the joint for wear.

What side is it?

Drivers side shaft is easy to replace, however it connects to another shaft called the "intermediate shaft" which then goes into the gearbox, it is easy to remove the drive shaft and intermediate shaft from the car and then disconnect those two shafts out of the car.

The passenger side drive shaft although there is no intermediate shaft can be a little bit trickier to remove it from the gearbox.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rata3m112mf56na/2014-09-14%2013.36.01.jpg?dl=0

Thanks very much, it's on the drivers side and was caused when the mechanic changed the strut seems he caused the split during the changeover. I thought replacing the boot would be a cheaper way out of it.

I usually dismantle the driveshafts and replace all 4 boots, if one goes (always an outer) the others are soon to follow.
Last job cost me all of $60.

To answer the question - yes, the boot slips on, but you have to do a few other things first.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rata3m112mf56na/2014-09-14%2013.36.01.jpg?dl=0

Thank you, the tear occurred when the front RHS strut was changed. All other boots are in good condition. Was hping to replace boot only, if possible.

why didnt the guy replacing the strut fix the torn boot while they had the car

anyway this a general way its done
may not be quite the same as a third gen drive shaft
you may have other sensors and stuff .I am not sure whats there

If not forum add the bits required

floor jack
car stands
sockets
boot kits
tie rod seperator tool
you need circlip pliers and the clips to hold the boots on
lots of rags
and hands are going to get very greasy

method in brief
with car supported safely
undo inner boot clip to gearbox end
you undo the outer Cv nut--- has a split pin and cage
remove the brake caliper and tie up
remove the rotor
undo the tie rod split pin and nut and release taper
undo the two lower strut bolts

remove drive shaft

in a vice undo the bearing circlip and slip off the bearing

undo the remaining boot clip and pull off that inner boot

undo both outer boot clips
remove boot all the way up the drive shaft

fit the new outer boot grease and clips comes in the kit
fit inner boot again
bearing re grease
circlip

refit drive shaft split pin tie rod
etc

Same thing happened to my KL recently, damn annoying. Drove it for 80 k's before discovering most of the grease had fallen out :(


When mine split I just picked up a new driveshaft from bursons for about $140, the shaft is already assembled, just need to remove the old one and put the new one in. Takes less time that just replacing the CV boot and checking the joint for wear.
.
AFAIK there are no "new" shafts available? Aren't they all just reconditioned and not very reliable? I just had mine re-packed with a new boot put on.
Hopefully it will last as long as it would have. The KH's boots are original at 230,000 k's, so they can last a while.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rata3m112mf56na/2014-09-14%2013.36.01.jpg?dl=0

Thank you, the tear occurred when the front RHS strut was changed. All other boots are in good condition. Was hping to replace boot only, if possible.

No, the boot was failing anyway, and changing the strut just helped it along - there is no way changing a strut will destroy a boot in good condition.

But feel free to stick to the line of "The mechanic did it, now I want a quick and easy fix". Sure, a $15 boot kit and 3 hours of work will fix it.

Replace the one boot, others will need doing soon anyway. Been there, done that. Best long term solution is to replace the whole lot as one. Look for surface cracks inside the folds of the other boots before you say the rest are all in good condition. Open up the folds with a finger and shine a torch in there.

PS. Generally, these boots start to fail at 180 to 220 thousand km. How many k on your car?

Same thing happened to my KL recently, damn annoying. Drove it for 80 k's before discovering most of the grease had fallen out :(

I just had mine re-packed with a new boot put on.

The KH's boots are original at 230,000 k's, so they can last a while.

If you catch them splitting early enough, repacking and a new boot is all that is needed. If you never check them, by the time they start to rattle going around slow corners, it is too late and new/recon shafts will be needed.

I check for telltale grease spatter signs every time I change the oil, as well as looking at the valleys in the outer boots where the split usually starts.
230,000 km is good going. Both my second gen Magnas had new boots at 220,000 km, my two current third gens haven't needed doing yet.
Easy job, after you've done it a few times.

why didnt the guy replacing the strut fix the torn boot while they had the car

anyway this a general way its done
may not be quite the same as a third gen drive shaft
you may have other sensors and stuff .I am not sure whats there

If not forum add the bits required

floor jack
car stands
sockets
boot kits
tie rod seperator tool
you need circlip pliers and the clips to hold the boots on
lots of rags
and hands are going to get very greasy

method in brief
with car supported safely
undo inner boot clip to gearbox end
you undo the outer Cv nut--- has a split pin and cage
remove the brake caliper and tie up
remove the rotor
undo the tie rod split pin and nut and release taper
undo the two lower strut bolts

remove drive shaft

in a vice undo the bearing circlip and slip off the bearing

undo the remaining boot clip and pull off that inner boot

undo both outer boot clips
remove boot all the way up the drive shaft

fit the new outer boot grease and clips comes in the kit
fit inner boot again
bearing re grease
circlip

refit drive shaft split pin tie rod
etc

Thanks mate appreciate that. I'll give it a go.

With the outer joint make sure you use a factory plastic boot not a cheap rubber boot

Good point. The originals are rubber - thick, black and a dull surface.
The better ones are much thinner, very flexible and very shiny.

(I bought a set from the dealer, they were the old style, dull and covered with surface cracks. Lasted all of 6 months. Beware old stock!)

AFAIK there are no "new" shafts available? Aren't they all just reconditioned and not very reliable?

Well this was a new shaft.

Well this was a new shaft.

Good. On the other hand, a properly reconditioned shaft, with a new CV (outer) joint & tripod (inner) joint and the plastic (neoprene ?) boots should last just as long. It's up to the skill of the rebuilder to decide if the joints are still usable or need replacing. They should come with warranty anyway.

No, the boot was failing anyway, and changing the strut just helped it along - there is no way changing a strut will destroy a boot in good condition.

But feel free to stick to the line of "The mechanic did it, now I want a quick and easy fix". Sure, a $15 boot kit and 3 hours of work will fix it.

Replace the one boot, others will need doing soon anyway. Been there, done that. Best long term solution is to replace the whole lot as one. Look for surface cracks inside the folds of the other boots before you say the rest are all in good condition. Open up the folds with a finger and shine a torch in there.

PS. Generally, these boots start to fail at 180 to 220 thousand km. How many k on your car?

Hi, car has 128,000km's. I had a good look at it today and will end up replacing shaft instead of boot only. Like you said a few bucks for the boot + a few hours to do it. How long should it take to replace shaft do you think?