I know that the cam marks need to line up, but how do I check that cam timing relative to the crankshaft?

And, would this also be the position that the distributor rotor should point towards Cylinder #1?

Inner pulley on the crank has a mark on it. Line that up with the zero mark on the plastic cover. Cam marks should then line up and distributor point at 1.
You may need to clean the pulley outer edge to see the mark.
If cams do not line up with their marks, turn crank 1 full turn.
/only turn crank clockwise/

Thanks Max,

Do I need to remove any plastic parts for the crank pulley to be visible, like I do for the camshafts?

No. But you will need a torch to shine down there, the marks are not highly visible.

When timing lights were used to set ignition timing (a long time ago) I used to clean the marks and mark them with a touch of liquid paper to make them more visible.
Crank pulley mark is on the edge closest to the plastic cam belt cover.

4th picture down, where the guy's thumb is:
http://www.sigma-galant.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=2361

Not off a Magna, but it shows the marks you are looking for:
http://austarletclub.com/index.php?/topic/18390-car-problems/

And what is my viewing angle?
Is it via the wheel well?
And do the plastics there need to come off or not?

From the top. Past the hoses. I between the rear belt runs.
Yep, it is cramped in there.

"Yep, it is cramped in there. "
Max, did you mean that the plastics DO need to come off in the wheel well?

no, leave plastics on.

Ok excellent. Thanks Max I'll go have a look now

Max you mentioned to only turn the crank clockwise. What is the issue in turning it counter clockwise?

Counterclockwise puts the force of turning the camshafts onto the rear cam belt adjustable roller, which may push the hydraulic tensioner all the way in, which may lead to the belt becoming lose enough to skip teeth. Turning the engine clockwise puts the tension needed to turn the cams on the front roller which is fixed in place. The rear run of the belt, where the hydraulic tensioner is, will be low in tension.

Ok, because I had to turn the crank ccw to get the rope out of the cylinder.

Max, these are the pics I took, can you tell me if this is wrong?
Both cams line up on their mark, distributor is at #1 to fire
However, the crank mark is either off, or I do not know what I am looking for.

The pics:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Cammark_zpsf28b0a34.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Crankmark1_zpsb738b19d.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Crankmark2_zpscc8f9132.jpg

Looks off.
Put the crank mark on the "0" FIRST, then look at the cam marks front and rear bank.

Which one of those is zero exactly?
I think the most visible one is 10?

Which one of those is zero exactly?
I think the most visible one is 10?
T = tdc(top dead centre), not sure if I'd get too excited by that amount, my galant is out by that much and runs fine, I've been paranoid about it. So compression looks good, timing probably ok, I think you may need a professional on this one. EGR valve? I'm just throwing ideas, and guessing.

I did spin the motor counter clockwise, so it not impossible that the timing belt jumped a tooth.
Also when I first started there was a loud tick/knock that went away which I am thinking now that it may have been the tensioner. I originally thought lifters as I had cleaned and primed them before instaling

Turn clockwise two full turns and line up the mark on the pulley with the "T" (= TDC, or "0").
Then look at the cam marks, photo both and let us have a look.

I did that Max, I won't post the photo up as they were almost exactly where they should be.

What I did figure out though was the there is no spark for cylinder 4.
Disconnecting injector makes no difference, and removing the lead also makes no difference.
I put the lead on the intake manifold (right up to it) and there was no arcing at all.

I added new:
Distributor cap
Rotor
Leads

I assume that the cap and rotor MUST be fine if the other cylinders are firing?
Must be the lead that is faulty?

I wish I hadn't thrown my old leads out... I can test with a multimeter though?
These were genuine Mitsubishi leads mind you

Good the cam timing is ok.
Yep, check no. 4 lead with a multimeter.