I bought a Ralliart steering wheel today, dyed in black, but it is showing its age and would suit a redye and or refurbishment. Could I redye it my self and would it look good? Or should I go to a firm to refurbish it? http://i60.tinypic.com/2w7r0bl.jpg[/I


http://i59.tinypic.com/2j3qj9x.jpgme!
http://i57.tinypic.com/15z1hex.jpg

I used matt black vinyl spray paint which worked fine. I've probably given it a quick touch up respray about 3 times since I bought it around 6 years ago just to keep it looking good as high wear sections can expose tiny parts of the original red dye. Also keep wet wipes in the glove box so hands are clean and this will increase the longevity of the dye finish.

I used matt black vinyl spray paint which worked fine. I've probably given it a quick touch up respray about 3 times since I bought it around 6 years ago just to keep it looking good as high wear sections can expose tiny parts of the original red dye. Also keep wet wipes in the glove box so hands are clean and this will increase the longevity of the dye finish.



That sounds good! Is it easy to do? Did you have to prepare the surface beforehand (eg. sandpaper)? Would a leather treatment kit help make the leather look and feel new and then could I slap the matt black vinyl spray paint over the top? Or is it easier to get it refurbished by a firm? (Which I haven't found any in Melbourne yet!)

You could condition the leather before dying, just give it a day or so to soak in. Then to dye, clean the wheel first with a wet or baby wipe. With it face down on newspaper spray the back, then turn over so it's sitting on the frame and spray the front and edges until it's covered evenly. Once dry, clean again with wet wipe to remove any paint residue. That's it really. I have a photo of my wheel dyed black in my ride thread if you'd like to see how it looks.

OMG! OMG! Oh No! Sandpaper! No! You will want to throw it away after going over it with sandpaper.

Ain't no such thing as businesses that "Refurb" leather steering wheels, but try an old fashioned boot maker/cobbler/shoe repairer who will paint it with leather dye and make it all shiny and new looking. Not many around, a lot have gone small business and have shoe repair/key cutting stalls in large shopping centres.

You could condition the leather before dying, just give it a day or so to soak in. Then to dye, clean the wheel first with a wet or baby wipe. With it face down on newspaper spray the back, then turn over so it's sitting on the frame and spray the front and edges until it's covered evenly. Once dry, clean again with wet wipe to remove any paint residue. That's it really. I have a photo of my wheel dyed black in my ride thread if you'd like to see how it looks.

That doesn't sound too hard! I'm going to head down to Supercheap auto tomorrow and grab some matte black vinyl spray paint and leather conditioner.

Ill keep you updated on the progress!

OMG! OMG! Oh No! Sandpaper! No! You will want to throw it away after going over it with sandpaper.

Ain't no such thing as businesses that "Refurb" leather steering wheels, but try an old fashioned boot maker/cobbler/shoe repairer who will paint it with leather dye and make it all shiny and new looking. Not many around, a lot have gone small business and have shoe repair/key cutting stalls in large shopping centres.

Yeah I didnt think sandpaper would be the way to go.... haha at least I didnt do it then realize?! Ill see if my local shoe repair place will do it or point me to someone who can.

That sounds good! Is it easy to do? Did you have to prepare the surface beforehand (eg. sandpaper)? Would a leather treatment kit help make the leather look and feel new and then could I slap the matt black vinyl spray paint over the top? Or is it easier to get it refurbished by a firm? (Which I haven't found any in Melbourne yet!)

don't put any conditioner on it otherwise the paint wont stick. you need to get the wheel as clean as possible by washing it, and go over it with sandpaper, something like 1200 grit wet and dry is fine. once it's dry go over it again with a piece of A4 copy paper to get it all smooth and gey a big sewing needle and clean up the holes. then hit it with several coats of septone satin black vinyl dye. it comes up looking and feeling like new.

I do a lot of leather wheels for mates and here's an example of a before and after on a EL XR6 option Momo :

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo2_zpse5d5eacb.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo10_zps87011eeb.jpg

don't put any conditioner on it otherwise the paint wont stick. you need to get the wheel as clean as possible by washing it, and go over it with sandpaper, something like 1200 grit wet and dry is fine. once it's dry go over it again with a piece of A4 copy paper to get it all smooth and gey a big sewing needle and clean up the holes. then hit it with several coats of septone satin black vinyl dye. it comes up looking and feeling like new.

I do a lot of leather wheels for mates and here's an example of a before and after on a EL XR6 option Momo :

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo2_zpse5d5eacb.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo10_zps87011eeb.jpg

Would you be willing to do my Ralliart wheel for me? That example looks absolutely mint! Love your work and would be an honour to have your work on my car! Pm sent

I've had great success with Waproo dye n shine Black - However it is a black leather dye so it will be a few shades darker than the charcoal on these wheels.
I have used the VHT black vinyl spray before and while it finishes well, it doesn't seem to last anywhere near as long as the waproo.
You can get the Waproo dye n shine from your local cobbler/shoe repairer & the following items from a hardware store:
Wax n grease remover
Some metho
Lint free cloth or chux cloths (genuine chux).
Masking tape (24mm gerneral purpose is fine)
1 x 25mm fine bristle painter's brush & #1 artist's spot brush (small pointy fine tip to get into the perforations if needed)

Prep is all important so esure the wheel is thouroughly cleaned & free of dust, dirt, oil & debris.
In a well ventlated area, use the lint free cloth & grease & wax remover to clean down the wheel thoroughly, you may need the 25mm paint brush to get into the hard to reach spots.
Once cleaned down, give it 30 mins or so to dry.
With another lint free/chux wipe, rub with the grain, the areas that are worn out (the metho helps the dye to adhese better to the leather).
Alow to dry & mask off required sections (I prefer to do perforated grip sections seperate to the rest of the wheel)
Open the dye n shine pour a small amount (15mL) into a small conainter/lid and mix in 5mL of metho & use the suppled cap brush and apply onto leather, use the artist's spot brush to get diluted dye into the perforations & once done allow 30mins to dry.
Inspect for dust and wipe off with clean cloth if required then apply undiluted dye n shine for the final top coat.
Repeat procedure for the rest of the Wheel (use the 25mm fine bristle brush if required for the larger areas) - make sure to wipe down any residue that may be left from the masking tape.
Once dried (allow overnight) You can use a small amount of metho on a lint free cloth to take some of the sheen off if you want a less glossy, more satiny look, apply length ways to keep finish consistent) and don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to remove too much dye.
Enjoy!!

I've had great success with Waproo dye n shine Black - However it is a black leather dye so it will be a few shades darker than the charcoal on these wheels.
I have used the VHT black vinyl spray before and while it finishes well, it doesn't seem to last anywhere near as long as the waproo.
You can get the Waproo dye n shine from your local cobbler/shoe repairer & the following items from a hardware store:
Wax n grease remover
Some metho
Lint free cloth or chux cloths (genuine chux).
Masking tape (24mm gerneral purpose is fine)
1 x 25mm fine bristle painter's brush & #1 artist's spot brush (small pointy fine tip to get into the perforations if needed)

Prep is all important so esure the wheel is thouroughly cleaned & free of dust, dirt, oil & debris.
In a well ventlated area, use the lint free cloth & grease & wax remover to clean down the wheel thoroughly, you may need the 25mm paint brush to get into the hard to reach spots.
Once cleaned down, give it 30 mins or so to dry.
With another lint free/chux wipe, rub with the grain, the areas that are worn out (the metho helps the dye to adhese better to the leather).
Alow to dry & mask off required sections (I prefer to do perforated grip sections seperate to the rest of the wheel)
Open the dye n shine pour a small amount (15mL) into a small conainter/lid and mix in 5mL of metho & use the suppled cap brush and apply onto leather, use the artist's spot brush to get diluted dye into the perforations & once done allow 30mins to dry.
Inspect for dust and wipe off with clean cloth if required then apply undiluted dye n shine for the final top coat.
Repeat procedure for the rest of the Wheel (use the 25mm fine bristle brush if required for the larger areas) - make sure to wipe down any residue that may be left from the masking tape.
Once dried (allow overnight) You can use a small amount of metho on a lint free cloth to take some of the sheen off if you want a less glossy, more satiny look, apply length ways to keep finish consistent) and don't apply too much pressure as you don't want to remove too much dye.
Enjoy!!

Thanks for the help! I'll give it a shot hopefully this coming weekend!

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo2_zpse5d5eacb.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/momo10_zps87011eeb.jpg

http://image.take40.com/300x225/jizz_in_my_pants_vimage_youtube_400x300.jpg

Sorry I had to post as I'm looking at fixing the top on mine soon.

Yeah give it a go yourself, nothing to lose

Still haven't had time to get around to doing it myself as I have a busy schedule with swimming 9 times a week and competing overseas. Have enquired to a number of companies that have quoted $300+, still want to DIY but it seems like I just dont have time. Anyone in vic want some extra $$$ and do it for me?

wheel has arrived and immediately placed in an induced coma til tomorrow morning for thorough examination. I've taken up the case pro bono as it is in a pretty sad state.

I have in my possession one can of Septone vinyl dye, believed to be the last of its kind. if anyone out there knows of a stockist with stock of Septone matt black vinyl dye please let me know!

You can request a quote from the following website for septone vinyl dye. I would presume that they would say it isn't made any more but could be worth a shot.

http://grhsupplies.com.au/portalogue/plservlet?M=3&LY=5471&CSM=1&G=CSM_PRODUCT_PROFILE&productno=211137&productname=AAVBL400+VINYL+PAINT+SATIN+BLACK+400g

Also keep wet wipes in the glove box so hands are clean and this will increase the longevity of the dye finish.

As a carer I actually keep a pump bottle of that alcohol based hand disinfectant in my car rather than wet wipes.

You can request a quote from the following website for septone vinyl dye. I would presume that they would say it isn't made any more but could be worth a shot.

http://grhsupplies.com.au/portalogue/plservlet?M=3&LY=5471&CSM=1&G=CSM_PRODUCT_PROFILE&productno=211137&productname=AAVBL400+VINYL+PAINT+SATIN+BLACK+400g

cheers Tim, email sent and fingers crossed!

and here's the patient:

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0103_zps8ef37979.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0104_zpsf135abd3.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0105_zps4a4ba4d2.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0108_zps06056182.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0106_zps4c2beced.jpg

I've put my Territory office chair project on hold and started operating on the wheel.

wheel stripped back. unfortunately the black paint was more like a thick gel and it's gotten into the perforations and seams which makes it very difficult to remove without totally destroying the leather.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2116_zps43fce8d5.jpg

hopefully we can salvage the MOMO logo

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2117_zpsda66ffd2.jpg

Hopefully it's salvageable.....

we are trying a new highly experimental treatment, several base coats of VHT satin black with a top coat of Septone vinyl dye.

patient is responding very well, perforations, though still clogged are now visable with the MOMO logo also intact. with any luck we may discharge this patient earlier than expected!

this is after the 2nd coat.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2126_zps47aa4dce.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2127_zps30f35bb2.jpg

patient is responding very well, perforations, though still clogged are now visable with the MOMO logo also intact. with any luck we may discharge this patient earlier than expected!


Wow that looks amazing, thanks so much for doing this for me! Looks a million times better than my duddy job. Hopefully i will get around to getting axel stands soon so we can install the rear sway bar!

no probs, at least you gave it a go. just wait til it's finished and installed, along with the rest of the dash! I've got axle stands as well, so no reason to buy them unless you're planning to use them a lot.

no probs, at least you gave it a go. just wait til it's finished and installed, along with the rest of the dash! I've got axle stands as well, so no reason to buy them unless you're planning to use them a lot.

Awesome! Again, thanks for everything, you have my eternal gratitude. By the time we are finished with my car it'll be brand new haha :-P

Great info TJ Sports. After reading the posts decided to have another crack at doing my ralliart wheel. First time I tried I used stripped the red and used wahoo black raven oil which didn't come out good. All I wanted to do was change the red to black as the rest of the wheel is in really good condition. I used VHT satin black vinyl dye this time and very happy with the way it came out.

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee426/GQshortie/20141229_193027.jpg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/GQshortie/media/20141229_193027.jpg.html)

not bad at all! glad to be of assistance.


Great info TJ Sports. After reading the posts decided to have another crack at doing my ralliart wheel. First time I tried I used stripped the red and used wahoo black raven oil which didn't come out good. All I wanted to do was change the red to black as the rest of the wheel is in really good condition. I used VHT satin black vinyl dye this time and very happy with the way it came out.

http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee426/GQshortie/20141229_193027.jpg (http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/GQshortie/media/20141229_193027.jpg.html)

Awesome! Again, thanks for everything, you have my eternal gratitude. By the time we are finished with my car it'll be brand new haha :-P

patient has just undergone a 3rd round of treatment, and this concludes the reconstructive phase as we're starting to lose definition in the perforations. I think were ready to proceed with the final cosmetic surgery.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2130_zpsead733cb.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2131_zps49729345.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2132_zpsc854e839.jpg

and here we have the patient after surgery, I'm sure you will agree it went well, but let the pics do the talking:

before:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0103_zps8ef37979.jpg

after:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/eae069b1-712e-4316-a801-15d08c070dc9_zpsb95495a1.jpg

before:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0106_zps4c2beced.jpg

after:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2134_zps22f5627b.jpg

before:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0104_zpsf135abd3.jpg

after:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2136_zps6a50ade0.jpg

before:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/DSC_0108_zps06056182.jpg

after:
http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2137_zpsc1fd5c4c.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2138_zpsa0910e8b.jpg

and here we have the patient after surgery, I'm sure you will agree it went well, but let the pics do the talking.

Wow they sure do the talking, I'm speechless!

Wow they sure do the talking, I'm speechless!

the patient could be discharged as early as tonight as the anasthetic has a touch dry time of 20 mins! lol

however I might keep him under observation til tomorrow just to be sure.

Looks great after the sanding back etc, taking a serious needle/pin to the holes might have worked better.

I have a couple of these projects coming soon™. A TL black momo and a ralliart red momo.

Looks great after the sanding back etc, taking a serious needle/pin to the holes might have worked better.

I have a couple of these projects coming soon™. A TL black momo and a ralliart red momo.

I agree, but there's a L-O-T of perforations and you could spend hours just picking at the holes. and when you start 1 you've got the do the lot as it shows! I've done it to my EL option MOMO wheel as above.

heres a TL VRX wheel I picked up for $29 at Imlachs, having taken to the perforations with a big sewing needle:

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2140_zps9f5091a8.jpg

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/archmage2/IMG_2141_zps771791f9.jpg

I recently had a new Ralliart Steering Wheel dyed black for my son. The guy that did it for me owned a Vinyl repair business.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=811469388909077&set=gm.1439746829600509&type=1&theater