I want to replace the right hand CV joint.
I've done everything, but the lower ball joint will not separate from the wishbone.
I've tried everything, and in desperation, removed the brake caliper, pads etc intending to remove the hub to enable me to get good access to the lower wishbone with the stub supported.
But, I cannot remove the hub to get the backing plate off
Why can I not simply pull the hub off .....
I have run out of ideas, please helpme

I found a very cheap tool that popped the joint very nicely. I think I got it at supercheap or something like that.

No need to pop the ball joint.
Just jack up the wheel and remove it, undo the axle nut, crank the steering on full lock, move the axle shaft back, undo and remove the two knuckle to suspension unit bolts, pull the knuckle out as far as it will go at the top, and the axle will slide out of the hub.

Actually, you need to remove the axle out of the hub just to get to the ball joint nut, no way you can put a puller on it, or a torque wrench to do it up again while the axle is in the way.

Many, many thanks MadMax, can't get to it today, but I had a look and understand what you say. Will have a go tomorrow.
I considered undoing the lower wishbone, but your way is better.
Man, was I getting frustrated yesterday!!
Have several bits of skin missing as well!

Regards,
Terry

Many, many thanks MadMax, can't get to it today, but I had a look and understand what you say. Will have a go tomorrow.
I considered undoing the lower wishbone, but your way is better.
Man, was I getting frustrated yesterday!!
Have several bits of skin missing as well!

Regards,
Terry

I'm proud of my scars. lol
My best one was when I was carrying VW parts, slipped in mud and one leg went down a trench in someone else's back yard, sliced my wrist good. Scar is still there 30 years later. lol

MadMax, you have saved my sanity.
I did as you said, and now ... job done! The inner joint pulled apart as the circlip did not want to let go, but a tyre lever and a bit of grunt sorted that out.
One hour max, job done.
I cannot thank you enough,
Regards,
Terry

If my head scratching sessions many years ago saved someone else's scalp, all is good.

I should have mentioned not to pull on the shaft once it is disengaged from the hub,. as the inner joint will just pop out of the outer housing, but you already know that, now. lol

No big deal, it can be put back together ok, but are the joints stuffed, or can I clean them, repack them, refit new boots and use them for next time?
We're not talking years since the original boots split, merely a week or so. No rain, no dirt roads.
They just clicked when turning.

The inner joint grease looked like it had water ingress though.

Regards,
Terry

theyre stuffed afa using on a car goes. If you ever do fit a new boot consider the material the boot is made from. If you get second hand don't get them from a wrecker, unless they do a proper job of rebuilding joints. If that sides gone have a good look at the other, those cracks grow out of fissures. Just because you can't see one readily doesn't mean the joint is'nt already in danger. If it's not clicking it's worth repacking. When doing the other side have more room to get at the enmgine mount for the cv. You need a long flattish 14 mm for that one. Otherwide similar process. You can push in and with a quick tug slip the clip joint. While you're at it check out the diff seals and any other things around that may need doing. Don't get any contaminants into the diff. If you use a joint puller it takes a bit to make it pop and when it does it's a good thing if it has a bit of string tied to the puller and the coil to stop it from flying off to where it shouldn't.

Driveshaft off the car can be dismantled. Circlip at the inner joint to remove tripod joint, then boots slip off.
Clean tripod joint and outer joint with rag, and look at the inner joint housing for wear or damage, outer joint can't be dismantled.
Flex the outer joint and look for roughness or play. If it has been clicking it is probably not worth rebuilding.
If you want to risk reusing the shaft, get the boot kits, come complete with clips and grease. Inner and outer boot kits are different.
Cost about $15 at your local car parts shop. The boots made of thin, shiny material work best. Mitsu dealer will probably want twice as much and sell you old stock - the thicker material. I did that and 6 months later I had to redo them.

Driveshaft off the car can be dismantled. Circlip at the inner joint to remove tripod joint, then boots slip off.
Clean tripod joint and outer joint with rag, and look at the inner joint housing for wear or damage, outer joint can't be dismantled.
Flex the outer joint and look for roughness or play. If it has been clicking it is probably not worth rebuilding.
If you want to risk reusing the shaft, get the boot kits, come complete with clips and grease. Inner and outer boot kits are different.
Cost about $15 at your local car parts shop. The boots made of thin, shiny material work best. Mitsu dealer will probably want twice as much and sell you old stock - the thicker material. I did that and 6 months later I had to redo them.

Yeah mate, I hear you.
Like wheel bearings, I will check them for scores, burns etc, your help is very much appreciated.
Truth is, now that I have cleaned & repacked the 2nd hand ones, they may be ok for many years?
I used the moly-be-damned-grease, so hopefully all will be well for a while. The boots were ok, I used plastic cable ties to secure them.
Car is back on the road, all is good.

Regards,
Terry

They may well last a long time.
Cable ties? Did you use the narrow or the wide ones? I found the narrow ones cut into the boot and cause grease leakage. Might be worthwhile to keep an eye out for leakage on the big end of the boots. Causes a spray pattern on the bodywork and inside of the wheel.

Yeah, Same problem with multi-core cable insulation in the NT. Due to temperature, thin ties tended to comprimise the insulation.
Cockies (parrots) seem to like chewing on black ones too! Use white or clear ones, cockies don't "see" them. Dunno why.
I only ever use the wider ties, but I thank you for the heads up.
Regards,
Terry