Hey Guys,
Just brought myself a shiny red awd magna vrx 2004. I have been reading thru endless post about them, but there a some grey areas, that i would like cleared up. I'll break it down into different headings, i want people who own or worked on these cars that actually know what their talking about.
The car is a daily driver, so i dont want to turn it into something i cant live with every day eg harsh ride.

BRAKES - The Brakes now have a good feel to them but they fade quick. I would like them to stop better and be more fade resistant lets face it Brakes are one of the best safety features. what would you recommend?
Evo Brakes bolt (change Rim Size)?
DBA 4000's slotted on front and rear?
how do these two option compare?
which is better slotted, drilled or drilled and slotted?

WHEELS/TYRES SIZE - The standard Wheel and Tyre size (215 60r16) feel really comfortable rolls into corners. dont mind losing bit of comfort for more grip. I would like more grip, response and less body roll.
With Evo Brembos ill have to get wheels that will fit over them- what would you recommend that will be legal, poke out guards or hit on rear control arm? Are the Brembos worth the extra hassle?
Just upgrading discs and pads- which size would give the best handling and grip 16, 17, 18 etc x 7, 8 and offests
(keep in mind if any suspension upgrades)?
If i could see pics of wheels on your tl give me some ideas what looks goods

SUSPENSION - Like i said before the car does roll into corners i thinks partly to do they big tyre size. I not really sure which is the big contributing factor the tyre size or if the suspension is soft (im more incline to go with tyres) please any advice would be great?
Which is the best combo springs and shock?
I have heard conflicting opinions about lovell, boge, dobs and kings.
does the sway bar need upgrading and what benefits do they have, front and rear? Do they actually provide more grip or just a feeling?

POWER More POWER!!!! (yes Clarkson) Its a good engine, but i feel its lacking in power it takes a bit to get this heavy car moving. i would like more power and torque especially down low (i do drive the car hard but i dont thrash it never has it been red lined) and more response.
Ok i have heard the 6g75 is the way to go,
is there anything else that i can do to make it better advancing cams, twin fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator etc
I like the exhaust on it but is there any area hat with improve it? extractors.
And tuning the car SKR seems to be one to do it but its to far away for me.
Anything while the 6g75 is out should i upgrade before fitting it?
Is there any reputable places in the Toowoomba/Brisbane area that KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING?
Are there any shops in this area/or anyone that i can talk to for info?

look guys any advice would be great, even in area that i have missed
thanks

I would suggest new rotors and some quality pads. I will be running slotted/dimpled rotors on my awd, these are an aggressive rotor and.will chew through your pads quicker though.While your at it bleed all the old (probably factory) brake fluid with a better aftermarket option. These brakes are essentially the ralliart magna ones and are a decent factory brake system.

As for wheels and suspension, buy the best you can afford. I would think that your suspension is standard and we'll past its use by date. I am about to run a Sachs/dobinsons combo on my awd.I personally won't be looking into tyres as much as my car is just a daily, it's awd so there is plenty of grip there. get a 17 or 18 inch tyre that's about 235 wide with low profile in a reputable brand and I would think you'd be having a much better ride in terms of grip.

I personally wouldn't modify a 6g74.. Just go straight to a 6g75 and be done with it. Even your best n/a mods to the 6g74 would be outdone by a stock 6g75....and much cheaper I would suggest

After all this you will have a fairly decent cruiser. Short of a manual transmission and forced induction there isn't much else to do..
My 2c

Can an AWD Magna even had a manual transmission without a whole bunch of fabricating?

Seeing as MMAL never built a manual AWD from the factory

Yes, there are 2 cars currently running manual boxes and another box from the first awd manual sitting at mitsfix

it has too may doors to be a sportscar

too heavy imo

Hi & congrats on the new car.

I had a 2003 TJ AWD for 4.5 years and loved it.
Handling:
IMO Mitsubishi have the AWD in these setup very well. I'm now in a Subaru and I don't think the diffs are as well sorted as the Magna.

But, I too noticed sloppy handling.
My first upgrade was a front strut brace. This improved turn-in response. It was very noticeable on roundabouts where you make 3 direction changes in quick succession and I scored one for $150.
A nice bit of bling which, on my car, actually made a difference. Some people are dubious of strut braces making any difference, so your mileage may vary.

My next upgrade was 18x7 wheels with 235/40/18 Kumho KU31 tyres. Tyres aren't the absolute best for grip, but aren't too expensive and a lot better than "cheap" tyres.
These improved steering response and grip further. For me, the thinner sidewall made no difference in ride comfort - my factory Sports suspension was always a little harsh.

Last handling mod was coilover suspension. These were cheap Kido brand (group buy on these forums) from memory $800 delivered.
I only ever installed the front. DIY but was too lazy to tackle the rear.
I set them up about 1.5 to 2" lower than the factory Sports setup (which is 10mm lower than Exec/Verada). This gave me the stance I wanted and still plenty of clearance.
The best thing about these is that the ride wasn't much harsher, but handling improved out of sight - a tight left hand corner at the lights used to always see me into the middle lane, or 3rd lane if I accelerated hard. Now I could turn into the corner more aggressively, 10kph faster, and the car would come out of the corner in the first lane. I was quite surprised and very stoked with the handling on rails effect.

If you're interested in Coilovers, I recommend reading Skappers thread. He did a lot more research, testing and tuning on his, so is a good place for info.

Next on the list might have been an uprated rear sway bar... but then I decided to get more power instead.

Brakes:
My fronts needed replacing so I opted for DBA 4000 series slotted rotors with Bendix "4x4 compound" metallic pads.
I never noticed brake fade with the original brakes or the DBA 4000s. I'm a hoon and drive too fast and aggressive too often, but no brake fade ever.
IMO, the brakes aren't as effective as they could be, but at least mine were consistent.

Power:
I was considering visiting Mal in Victoria for a 3.8 engine upgrade. IMO this could be the most cost effective option, especially if your engine is nearing major service time.
I was even tempted to get Mal to put in a manual transmission, but that was more $ than I was willing to spend, although not a lot more if the auto trans was to need repairing.

Instead I bought a Subaru Forester with 160kW at the wheels. :)

Enjoy your AWD, they're tops!

I think there's an awd manual magna floating around our forums, madmagna did it I believe, he's your go to 6g75 guy and also does manual conversions and lots of other specialized magna stuff

@ Seriousmagnaman, what you list pretty much describes everything I've done to my KJ Verada AWD except for the manual conversion.
I'm replacing the DBA4000 rotors & calipers with the Brembos next year. (In the process of rebuilding & repainting the Brembos).
Is it a sports car? At 1630ish kgs, I don't know about that, but it handles terrific, rides well, goes harder (wider powerband - thanks to a 6G75 fully serviced & running a 98 RON ECU flash) and is now capable of making a decent account of itself at the dragstrip.

IMO The main issue with stock AWD models, is the bogging down from standstill and a relative lack of responsiveness in low down acceleration compared to a FWD 3.5 TJ Magna.
You can blame 130kgs of extra weight & zero wheel slip courtesy of the AWD system & the extra power losses associated with it.
Really, the only way to properly rectify this is to either go forced induction, an aggressive N/A rebuild of the 6G74 or do a 6G75 swap and ECU re-flash.
Headers/extractors, better Y-pipe and sports rear muffer (VRX, Lukey LR2779 or any decent straight through muffler) are a must do, even if you choose to retain the stock motor.
As for 6G75 swaps in Brisbane try forum member crackajnr:
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=5945

He's done some of these swaps now, or if you are further south perhaps TTR in Springwood - "IF" they are still doing 6G75 conversions that is. I got mine done there but the owner indicated that he was moving away from doing conversions.
Alternatively you could get a prepped 6G75 ready to install into a magna from Mal @ Mitsfix & see if he'll freight a motor to your mechanic.

Any car can be a sports car - the limit is your budget... and the law of course.

Same answer for power - how much money do you have? How long do you want the engine to last? I agree with most comments here - 6G75 should keep you happy. Get some headers and a tune as well for bonus points.

Suspension - sharper handling vs comfort, you can't have both. But buy good tyres first and see how that works out for you.

I run coilovers and a larger rear bar, corner weighted, and I still get some roll in the front it's just the characteristic of the car - all that weight out front. I'm looking at experimenting with the battery and washer bottle locations to get that weight off the front - I'll keep you posted. I'm also kicking around the idea of a larger front bar, but need to research it more.

Reduce weight otherwise as best you can - if you don't need it, get it out of the car. How far you take that is up to you, just be safe/smart about it.

Brakes - start with good pads before shelling out for expensive rotors. I'm running QFM pads and they're great, none of the fade you're talking about. But, your mileage may vary. Use the tippy to for engine brake.

Hey

thank you all for the excellent help it is greaty appreciated,
I have been doing some further research.

Handling
Sachs (apparently an oil strut is that better or worse?) and Dobinson springs that JAROD mention seem to be highly recommended, what is every ones thoughts on them? What sort of comfort level do you get out of combination and performance (comparing to stock setup and stock rims)?
Or the full strut and spring package from Koni be better?
OGGY I had a look seems about 200 on ebay for Whiteline Strut Brace, I heard that Kmac make one also. Ill give it a crack see what it does :)

Brakes
Mitsfix recommend putting 380 ones on it apparently more efficient over stock, any comments?

Rims/Tyres
17 inch rims seem to be sweet spot, found a nice set 17x7.5 offset 38, was recommended 215 55 17 because it will keep speedo spot on and apparently 215 on 7.5 rim will make tyre more square than say a 225 so less tyre roll because it less baggy/buldge, is this correct? The tyre shop was concerned about the 225 tyre hitting on rear control arm.

Performance
putting the 6g75 in seems to be the hands winner, thank you ADM how is yours going with the 6g75?
Is there anything worth doing while its out new engine mounts etc?
Is it a good idea putting bigger fuel pump, larger injectors?
What about 3ltr torque converter?
Is it worth the extra money to install the 380 intake?

I am planning on keeping the original engine so I have been thinking of getting another speedo I reckon one out of a KL/KW AWD Verada, are they easy to swap over?
Can you change the lights to different colours, say red needles with blue numbers, or is it like my vrx one its all little leds?

thanks ADM about the advice about T.T.R is this the same guys https://www.facebook.com/TTRAutomotive

Sachs (apparently an oil strut is that better or worse?) and Dobinson springs that JAROD mention seem to be highly recommended, what is every ones thoughts on them? What sort of comfort level do you get out of combination and performance (comparing to stock setup and stock rims)?
Or the full strut and spring package from Koni be better?
Koni only make struts, not springs for Magnas. Konis are best but are priced accordingly. The Sachs are good bang for buck.

Ride will be firmer than standard but nothing silly. As long as you go for a set of 'Low' springs rather than Superlow I don't think you will have anything to complain about.


17 inch rims seem to be sweet spot, found a nice set 17x7.5 offset 38, was recommended 215 55 17 because it will keep speedo spot on and apparently 215 on 7.5 rim will make tyre more square than say a 225 so less tyre roll because it less baggy/buldge, is this correct?
Any 3rd gen that came with 17x7" wheels from factory came with 225/50/17 tyres from factory. They would be my pick. Better/cheaper tyres than 215/55/17 too.

Interesting. You should be able to change the lights some easy way. I got a 94 ts advace v6 with a spoiler, all white including bumpers, mirror except for chrome and some black pillar bits. I switched from the standard 205 15s to 255 15s on original mits alloys and indeed there was a rubbing issue in this case the inner fender shielding, easily fixed by threading a wire into it and changing its profile. Anyway, it does make a difference to stability, general comfort and confidence in hazard situations, admittedly the tires are extra sticky. I asked a cop to check my speed and found about a 2.5kph difference at 60 and found a mental adjustment sufficient. + less revolutions per k which makes for a bit better long distance cruising. Plus the oversize makes the car look meaner.

Handling
Sachs and Dobinson springs that JAROD mention seem to be highly recommended, what is every ones thoughts on them? What sort of comfort level do you get out of combination and performance (comparing to stock setup and stock rims)?

Sachs/Dobinsons are a proven combo in magnas - I've got the Dobinsons lows in my car (35mm lower over stock non sports FWD magnas) Firmer but still with plenty of compliance & no clearance issues. I run KYB shocks which are good but I'll be going Sachs next time as they are a better shock. I also run a whiteline strut brace which makes a difference more so when pushing it through corners.


Or the full strut and spring package from Koni be better?

Yes, they are better but you do pay a premium for going with the Koni set up.


Brakes
Mitsfix recommend putting 380 ones on it apparently more efficient over stock, any comments?
Did Mitsfix know you had the AWD variant which has a better braking setup over stock magna/Verada?
Just my opinion, but given the AWD brakes are the same ones as used in the 2002 TJ magna Ralliart,
for the marginal difference between them & the 380's, I personally don't think it's worth the expense.
The 380 PBRs & the AWD Akebonos have the same vented rotor diameters (294mm front & 284mm rear) Both are a twin piston set up front & single piston rear but the 380 PBRs have a thicker front rotor (4mm from memory) & their front calipers are slightly wider also. Either system is a good and worthwhile upgrade over a standard Magna/Verada FWD setup.
I looked into a 380 brake package but instead opted for an EVO VII Brembo set up. Dearer? Yes but a significant upgrade.


Rims/Tyres
17 inch rims seem to be sweet spot, found a nice set 17x7.5 offset 38, was recommended 215 55 17 because it will keep speedo spot on and apparently 215 on 7.5 rim will make tyre more square than say a 225 so less tyre roll because it less baggy/buldge, is this correct? The tyre shop was concerned about the 225 tyre hitting on rear control arm.

I have 18"x 8" +35 offset rims on 245/40 Goodyears with no clearance issues either for the guards or the rear control arm. My particular rims will accept the Brembos so I'll stick with them.
You can also use any factory 17" rims from a lancer EVO VI or later.


Performance
putting the 6g75 in seems to be the hands winner, thank you ADM how is yours going with the 6g75?
Is there anything worth doing while its out new engine mounts etc?
Is it a good idea putting bigger fuel pump, larger injectors?
What about 3ltr torque converter?
Is it worth the extra money to install the 380 intake?

You should get around 1 second better 1/4 mile time, which doesn't sound like much but equates to around 25kw power increase at the wheels, as long as you use factory CAI, then you'll notice much better performance off idle which the AWD variants sorely need. It's wise to check engine mounts, radiator & hoses while motor is out. If you are looking into putting a larger anti roll bar on the front, then that would be a good time to do it also as the motor has to be removed to change it over.
Also ensure the timing belt & seals, tensioner (if needed), water pump & rocker cover gaskets, plugs & quality leads are replaced (all easy to do while engine is out).
In the AWD (at least in mine), If you use HM Perry headers & Y-pipe you'll be able to fit the engine without using those silly spacers on the headers to clear the oil pan or retro fitting the old motor's oil pan & baffle which is a bonus as the 6G75's is a much better design. (Reports of spun bearings doing the rounds on guys running 6G74 baffles on 6G75 engines - admittedly on the track)
Many people say that the stock fuel pump is sufficient for even a mildly worked 6G75. I've put a Walbro fuel pump in place of the stock Denso unit. I think it helped but it's a noisy thing. Upgrade to an Evo fuel pump if you must. Higher flow without the noise.
You don't need larger injectors on a stock or even mildly worked 6G75. Use the old motor's return fuel rail & 275cc injectors as they flow the same as the 380 ones (Only difference is the 380 has 12 hole nozzle vs 4 hole nozzle for the 3.5Ltr - no power difference but the 380 maybe has slightly better atomization for perhaps improved emmissions)
I was advised by TTR that 3.0 torque converter swaps don't drive particularly smoothly, so I didn't opt for it. Better to make sure you have a good size in line transmission cooler and flush every 25,000 kms or so with genuine Mitsubishi Diamond SP3 fluid.

As for intake, you should go one of 2 ways: Buy a modified 6G75 manifold off Mitsfix or a guy named Jerome in the Facebook Modified Mitsubishi group - or run a modified 6G74 intake manifold with 50mm shorter runners being substituted for larger intake chamber - ala Graham Bell's book 4stroke performance tuning. (He did this for a 6G75 magna with great results). Either option will allow you to run the standard CAI and snorkel and give a much better result over the standard 6G74 manifold.

Using original 6G75 intake manifold is doable but very fiddly as you have to innovate as to where to fit the air box (there are several different configurations depending on your budget & performance goals) and may even require you relocate your battery to the boot. And as I've found out, quick and easy fix POD filter loses a fair bit of power (I'm now running one of Mitsfix's 6G75 modified intake manifold with stock CAI and getting much better low down throttle response)




thanks ADM about the advice about T.T.R is this the same guys https://www.facebook.com/TTRAutomotive
Yep that is them

A set of HM headers on an AWD 6G74 will produce 8-10% more torque and net about 7% more power than stock (see http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71053&p=1596077&viewfull=1#post1596077). A 6G75 will net about 20-22% more power. Combined, you'll net about 30% more power (see http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71053&p=1490238&viewfull=1#post1490238). VRX rear muffler (or, reputedly, a Lukey LR2779 muffler) will net a few more Kw. Combine all of these and you'll net about a 33% power increase (see http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104302&p=1613565&viewfull=1#post1613565).

I'd add spend as much as you can on shocks - the koni yellows are unbelievably good.

Wheels go with something lightweight for better handling and ride quality (less crashy over bumps).

The awd system really comes into its own with more power put through it :)

For starters, unfortunately Koni no longer make these for the Magna's. I have the last new set here on my shelf and then that will be if for the Magna range, they simply were not selling enough to make it worth while.

Motor, I have never had one motor fail to date from Oil, in fact I have only had 1 motor I have supplied fail and that was because someone dropped a washer down the intake when doing plugs. Not the motor's fault.

With Brakes, the AWD are very good however I would still change to AWD ones if I still had an AWD and I was going to do brakes. The thicker rotor and larger pad surface area does improve brakes. This is more noticeable when giving the car a hard time and not so much day to day use.

HM I would definitely recommend regardless if you want to keep the 74 or change to a 75

In the AWD (at least in mine), If you use HM Perry headers & Y-pipe you'll be able to fit the engine without ... retro fitting the old motor's oil pan & baffle which is a bonus as the 6G75's is a much better design.
I'd be grateful if you (or Mal) could clarify this, as Mal's advice to me, via a PM, was:

With the AWD you would have to use the Magna sump regardless as I dont think the transfer case would fit even once the block has been modified as needs to be done to fit to an AWD.

Mine is a 02/2003 model KJ verada AWD.
Swapping to the 6G74 oil sump & baffle wasn't required, after swapping the other requisite components from the 6G74. They did a trial fit of the new motor and in my car's case the the HM Perry headers easily cleared the 6G75 oil sump without requiring spacers & original 6G75 baffles were also left on (as recommended by Rob given their better design). I assume the block was shaved in the corner to allow clearance of the transfer case, but I didn't ask about that. I'm not saying this will be the case with every AWD, but it was so in mine.

Thanks

I can vouch for konis they are an awesome shock, ive had the yellow on my car for about a year now, cant complain at all

Had a drive of my old TJ AWD again last night, damn I miss that car sometimes. I sold it to my bro a while ago and he was in his wife's WRX last night. Kept up to him in the corners in 2nd gear the whole time :D

Good value these AWDs. Just lacking in a straight line IMO.

I can vouch for konis they are an awesome shock, ive had the yellow on my car for about a year now, cant complain at all
Sorry to interrupt with noob questions, but are these sports shocks being discussed here? Do these provide a better ride than standard OEM for just street driving? And are they fitted to front/back or both? Finally, are these a strut replacement or just a shock, cos i understand we have front struts out of the factory so i assume the whole strut must be replaced if a shock fails? Again, sorry for noob questions.

I have the koni shocks front and back in combination with low king springs, I went from 10 year old OEM shocks to these and the difference was amazing completely cut out my understeer and rebound (again original shocks were rooted so they had such a huge difference), they are adjustable which means you can firm up the ride if you wish but with street driving you really don't need too, the backs are a shock and fronts are an insert that must be put inside an original OEM strut, i found the ride to be a lot firmer and flatter around corners but defiantly not unbearable they still soak up most of the small bumps and dips in the bad QLD roads. the car was already lowered when I got it with the original shocks, so you can completely take out the springs as a variable, I can say just replacing the shocks did a world of difference.

one of the biggest reasons for brake fade is the fluid, change to a high temp fluid, I would do this before any other mods to the brakes.

hey guys,

how would the car with go with putting hm extractors, ralliart/380 cams, 380 heads, 380 intake manifold and a 98 tune all on the 6g74?
cost?
power figures?
any other mods can you do to a 6g74?

how easy is it to put the 380 heads on?

how easy is it to put the 380 heads on?
While it has been done it seriously drops the compression to somewhere about 7.7:1 from memory.

hey guys,

how would the car with go with putting hm extractors, ralliart/380 cams, 380 heads, 380 intake manifold and a 98 tune all on the 6g74?
cost?
power figures?
any other mods can you do to a 6g74?

On my old 6g74, I did HM Perry extractors & Y-pipe & a straight through rear muffler, along with iridium plugs & new premium leads & fresh air filter. The car was good for flat 16's and the occasional high 15.9 second pass over the 1/4 mile > That equates to about 105-108kw at the wheels.
Adding ralliart cams & and a ralliart ECU flash on top of those improvements would shave at best 2 tenths of a second off that time.
Unless you plan on swapping over to higher comp pistons or building up a forged bottom end & running turbos, it isn't worth putting on 6G75 heads because of the compression ratio drop.

You can work a 6G74 ie: port & polish the heads, 380 cams & modified inlet manifold, fidanza cam gears for a little more advance, Iridium or Platinum Plugs, fresh leads, new dizzy cap & Ralliart ECU flash, exhaust etc... and get pretty good results but by the end of it, it won't be any more powerful than a stock 6G75 & certainly won't be as torquey down low either.
Stock 6G74 has 9.0:1 compression ratio so putting on a 98 RON ECU flash isn't going to give you any worthwhile gains over a ralliart ECU flash.
Different story with the 6G75 as they have 10.0:1 compression ratio so there is some benefit with going a more aggressive 98 RON ECU flash.

In the end it's your call. You'll probably spend about as much modding your old motor as doing a 6G75 swap. Either way, if you only get one thing done - Do the exhaust upgrade (HM Perry Headers with matching Y-Pipe & a VRX/straight through rear muffler) as mentioned countless times before, best bang for your buck upgrade for the AWD models.

Or you can stop wasting money and buy one that has already had $20k spent on mods. Mine is on carpoint now.

ttb, is yours AWD model?
He already knows of a 6G75 converted 13 sec FWD Magna for sale in Brissy south. I'm pretty sure he wants to keep his car though as he wants to stay AWD.

ttb, is yours AWD model?
He already knows of a 6G75 converted 13 sec FWD Magna for sale in Brissy south. I'm pretty sure he wants to keep his car though as he wants to stay AWD.

Yep. 2005 GTvi AWD Verada. Done only 85k. Engine was rebuilt with forged internals at 38k. It is twin screw supercharged and has HALTECH E11.

I don't want it anymore as I have five vehicles and am switching to diesel only.

Sorry, another noob question for anyone please; what are the differences between the AWD, VR-X AWD AND GTVi AWD (assuming there is one)?

Sorry, another noob question for anyone please; what are the differences between the AWD, VR-X AWD AND GTVi AWD (assuming there is one)?
VRX is a Magna variant, GTVi is a Verada variant. There are also AWD Magnas and Veradas that aren't VRX or GTVi, respectively. The engines & transmissions are the same - the only differences concern fit-out and a minor exhaust difference worth a few Kw for the VRX & GTVi.

Sorry, another noob question for anyone please; what are the differences between the AWD, VR-X AWD AND GTVi AWD (assuming there is one)?



Below are for sedans only. Wagons are slightly different:


J series:
AWD: Magna AWD (based on Advance model FWD), Magna Sports AWD (based on FWD Magna Sports), Verada AWD (based on FWD Verada Ei)
FWD: Magna Exec, Magna Advance, Magna Sports, Magna VR-X, Magna Ralliart, Verada Ei, Verada Xi, Verada GTV


L Series:
AWD: Magna AWD (based on FWD ES), Magna VR AWD (based on FWD VR), Verada AWD (based on FWD Ei)
FWD: Magna ES, Magna LS, Magna VR, Magna VR-X, Verada Ei, Verada Xi, Verada GTVi


W Series:
AWD: Magna LS AWD (based on FWD LS), Magna VR-X AWD (based on FWD VR-X), Verada GTVi AWD (based on FWD GTVi)
FWD: Magna ES, Magna VR-X, Verada Ei, Verada Xi


Basically, the normal Magna AWD was based on the base model FWD Magna. The VR/VR-X AWD was based on the FWD VR/VR-X models and the Verada AWD was based on the FWD Verada Ei and the Verada GTVi AWD was based on the FWD Verada GTVi.


The differences between each AWD and their donor FWD is mainly cosmetic and of course the AWD drive train and sump mods. The non-sports AWDs lost very little power due to the badly designed y-pipe join. The sports variants on the other hand lost more due to the badly designed y-pipe having more affect on the straight-through exhaust.


Mine has the following mods:
1. 380 cams
2. SKR tune for 98ron fuel (before 380 cams went in)
3. 300 CPI Berkeley cat
4. HM Headers and Y pipe.
5. Additional air ducting from behind grille to air box (extra hole cut).
6. 380 front brake setup.


I haven't taken it to the strips yet but I know that it has improved a lot from factory much to the dismay of quite a few Holden and Ford clowns at the lights (not that I condone such behaviour), especially considering I have the heaviest Mitsubishi sedan ever produced, weighing in at just under 1700kg at the kerb from factory and more than 1700kg due to bigger wheels/brakes and heavy duty square hitch tow bar.

Actually in all honesty with being mucked around allot by people who say they can install the 6g75 and they never call back, or people asking stupid amounts for it to be done 10g. All of you guys on this forum have been awesome same with mitsfix. The 100k service is due so I thought now would be the best time to do stuff, so my options are I'll either I'll just do some basic stuff cams extractors etc and buy another car i really like the later year fto version r or a later model gto. Or my other thought was like you guys said buy a magna that has had all the work done to it properly, so if you got a ride let me know? I'm in toowoomba and I don't want to travel very far. To Brisbane, coast that sorta distance is fine.
TBB your too too far away.

Getting quoted $10,000 for a 3.8Ltr conversion is an absolute joke. Even $5000 is a bit of a joke (assuming a fully serviced low kms second hand donor 6G75 motor). Typical prices for getting these conversions done by a willing mechanic/performance shop, were usually around the $2400-$4000 ball park, with 6G75 engine included in that price.
Seriousmagnaman, if you got your eyes set on a later FTO, that might be a better way to go, just investigate via forums what mods are available & if those are within your budget as it sounds like that style of car is more in line with what you want.
As I and some others have demonstrated, an AWD magna/verada can be made into a fine touring style of car with some sportiness in the engine & handling stakes for a modereate cost that won't break the bank.
Anything much past what has been mentioned for mods starts to get very expensive and it then becomes a law of diminishing returns. Unless one is dead set on something unique in the Magna AWD platform, there are other cars out there that already would have the performance & sports car attributes someone like yourself would be looking for out of the box.

Hey adm, that 10g was not including motor i had to purchase it as well.
what is the performance difference between Konis with lowered dobinson springs vs sach with the same springs? And what is the performance difference between the standard awd magna brakes with dba t3 rotors with qfm pad vs 380 brakes on the front of car with t2 rotors with same pads?

380 and AWD have same diameter rotors but 380 rotors are 4mm thicker. 380 calipers are larger than AWD calipers.

Yeah just curious the performance difference between both of those combinations?

You are also comparing a t2 against a t3. You probably won't notice a difference in daily use. The t3 will be better in track use and heavy braking/towing/hill use.

Here is a press release of t2 and t3 I found a few weeks ago while looking for replacement rotors.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2353092

Hey adm, that 10g was not including motor i had to purchase it as well. what is the difference between Konis with lowered dobinson springs vs sach with the same springs? And what is the difference between the standard awd magna brakes with dba t3 rotors with qfm pad vs 380 brakes on the front of car with t2 rotors with same pads?

I can see how putting a 380 engine into an AWD Magna could be expensive. I'm making this comment purely on my own limited experience, having just put a 380 engine in my AWD myself. Getting the transfer off/on is pretty intensive. It's probably ludicrously easy if you've done a few though.

Cost of the 380 engine isn't too bad I thought; converted and with a timing belt, plugs, leads etc. I considered buying a 380 engine from a wreckers and doing the conversion myself, but it wasn't economical, all tolled I couldn't beat the price quoted by Mal. Not to mention time and reliability were major factors.

As for 380 brakes vs' AWD brakes, I can't comment. AWD brakes, with good pads and fluid, are phenomenal by comparison to the FWD Magna brakes. I'd need the hard sell to switch to 380 brakes; unsprung weight of bigger calipers for a small gain in braking performance...?

I saw the FTO being mentioned in earlier posts here? Love those things, and SERIOUSLY considered buying one. But costs, and availability, of parts was what put me off. Love the sound of the little MIVEC six at full revs.

To vlad,
That's my point, because the t3 aren't available for 380 brakes. So I'm trying to weigh up what is best. Keep standard awd brakes with really good pads and rotors or go for 380 larger calipers with really good pads and average rotors?

To skapper
Haha they are a screamer at full revs, Fun little car. The version r looks amazing and with the aftermarket talon back bumper with the twin exhaust makes it for me http://www.completefto.com.au/assets/temp/rearbar.jpg
That was a concern of mine also and trying to find a decent one is a not a easy task. I drove this one that had sweet bugger all km like 60k and it drove like one that had 300+
And how are you liking the new engine in your car?

The 380 rotor is heavier because it is 4mm thicker but the 380 caliper is lighter as it is Aussie made by pbr and is cast alloy instead of Japanese made cast iron on the AWD/ralliart magnas.

The 380 rotor is heavier because it is 4mm thicker but the 380 caliper is lighter as it is Aussie made by pbr and is cast alloy instead of Japanese made cast iron on the AWD/ralliart magnas.

4mm thicker? That right there has to help with heat dissipation you would think.

4mm thicker? That right there has to help with heat dissipation you would think.
Not sure about that (other factors come into play) but, if the metal is thicker, that would cause the disc to remain hot for longer ...

Hey adm, that 10g was not including motor i had to purchase it as well.
what is the performance difference between Konis with lowered dobinson springs vs sach with the same springs? And what is the performance difference between the standard awd magna brakes with dba t3 rotors with qfm pad vs 380 brakes on the front of car with t2 rotors with same pads?

$10,000 minus motor. Whoever quoted you that probably doesn't want to do it & thought they'd scare you off with a stupidly priced quote.
As for the other questions, I haven't had all these combos you mention at my disposal to compare with the exception of:
1) stock AWD rotors vs the DBA4000's - Honestly, they felt the same - no noticeable braking performance gain or pedal feel. Pads were OEM then maxistops (similar compound to OEM)
2) Stock springs & dampers with Whiteline strut brace already fitted vs Kings SL front / lows rear KYBs allround - Stock suspension was like a marshmallow - Kings sat around 55mm lower on the front & 40mm lower on the back. Good compliance (not too stiff) but hit the bump stops too often and lacked dynamics. Front end a bit too bouncy at times, also due to lowered set up altering suspension geometry. Handling was better than stock, less understeer but far from top notch. Some clearance issues.
3) Dobinsons lows vs Kings SL/lows KYBs all round - Dobinsons sit about 25mm higher at the front & about 15-20mm higher at the rear compared to previous Kings. Much improved dynamincs, more sure footed around corners (taller ride height improves suspension geometry), firmer but more compliant ride due to longer suspension travel and 25% stiffer spring rates over standard. No clearance issues.

$10,000 minus motor. Whoever quoted you that probably doesn't want to do it & thought they'd scare you off with a stupidly priced quote. As for the other questions, I haven't had all these combos you mention at my disposal to compare with the exception of: 1) stock AWD rotors vs the DBA4000's - Honestly, they felt the same - no noticeable braking performance gain or pedal feel. Pads were OEM then maxistops (similar compound to OEM) 2) Stock springs & dampers with Whiteline strut brace already fitted vs Kings SL front / lows rear KYBs allround - Stock suspension was like a marshmallow - Kings sat around 55mm lower on the front & 40mm lower on the back. Good compliance (not too stiff) but hit the bump stops too often and lacked dynamics. Front end a bit too bouncy at times, also due to lowered set up altering suspension geometry. Handling was better than stock, less understeer but far from top notch. Some clearance issues. 3) Dobinsons lows vs Kings SL/lows KYBs all round - Dobinsons sit about 20mm higher at the front & about 10mm higher at the rear compared to previous Kings. Much improved dynamincs, more sure footed around corners (taller ride height improves suspension geometry), firmer but more compliant ride due to longer suspension travel and 25% stiffer spring rates over standard. No clearance issues.

Suspension geometry is a good point to bring up.

Lowering these cars effects the roll centre dramatically. My theory/opinion is that Mitsubishi set the ride height as low as they could with the Ralliart/VRX - only about 10mm than standard?

Heavier springs are much needed. I did contact Kings Springs and they do offer heavier spring rates, but it wasn't cheap. I'd imagine Dobinsons and lovells would also, but didn't get a price from those guys. The catch then would be finding a damper that matched the stiffer springs. Hit and miss with off the shelf stuff, aside from Koni's. It got expensive pretty quick trying to put together a custom suspension package this way, hence why I went to coilovers.

Suspension geometry is a good point to bring up.

Lowering these cars effects the roll centre dramatically. My theory/opinion is that Mitsubishi set the ride height as low as they could with the Ralliart/VRX - only about 10mm than standard?

Heavier springs are much needed. I did contact Kings Springs and they do offer heavier spring rates, but it wasn't cheap. I'd imagine Dobinsons and lovells would also, but didn't get a price from those guys. The catch then would be finding a damper that matched the stiffer springs. Hit and miss with off the shelf stuff, aside from Koni's. It got expensive pretty quick trying to put together a custom suspension package this way, hence why I went to coilovers.

It is possible to go 30mm lower from stock (base model that is - not including Sports/VRX variants) while still keeping geometry integrity in the 3rd gens.
After that it starts to get noticeably out of whack > Rear end negative camber becomes visually quite noticeable, front end tends to skip more around bumpy corners, and front end corner grip tends to suffer plus it puts more wear on the drive shafts. Generally adjusting the toe in/out & pushing the castor forward is used as compensation, but that is usually just a patch up. It's possible to engineer in better geometry in this platform for more lowering but would require some fabrication & re-spacing of certain suspension mounting points to achieve this.
And please no one get me started on chocking up the back upper control arms with a gang of round washers to straighten up the rear wheels :-S

Regarding Springs, both the Dobinsons & Lovells are firmer that stock springs. Dobinsons are 25% stiffer over OEM & lovells are marginally stiffer and a fraction lower again. Either way, they are Virtually identical.
For dampers, the Boge/Sachs are the prefered choice by most members when combined with the Dobinsons or Lovells. With only the Konis or dedicated decent set of coilovers trumping that set up for ultimate handling.

Funny how things change through time, when I worked at Gerrard springs in Tarragingi in Brisbane back in the 80's we used to make pedder springs for a while, they were a nice spring, were oil quenced, scragged and shot peined, they were the spring of choice. I remember doing reworks on the Lovell springs, they were dropping ride heights when people hit big potholes in the road. Lovells had made a whole batch of springs and had forgotton to scrag them.

It's a shame that good quality Aussie manufacturing is becoming scarcer & scarcer. I remember when Pedders/Kings were top notch in coil springs - going back many years now.