My late 94 ts advance v6 6G72, that's now gone into low 390000s, has had the oft mentioned lifter noise when starting, seems to be gone. I had it off the road for about 3 1/2 months and now need to work on the 133800 (same model year). I can't remember when the ticking started, maybe 100000 ago, and as it has been slowly getting more frequent return after adding some lifter cleaner and or changing oil I figured it was going to be an issue so I started the engine in the morning, had a shower and got dressed, perhaps 25 mins, and the ticking was pretty much gone after banging away when first started. The odd thing is that it has stayed gone. In fact in many ways the whole bloody thing is running smoother than it has for some time. This is about a week now. I've never got why that particular lifter is often problematic front fireside. I sure don't get why it's suddenly decided to behave itself. Does it presage some sort of disaster or is there some learning to be gleaned from this.

wait till next oil change

Ok. The oil hasn't been changed for some time so it's due.
Another thing I did was burp the cooling system thoroughly on a ramp then put flush through it and then refill, burp and seal/ Lot's of little and big bubbles coming out with the first burp, none with the second. I suspect a slow leak somewhere. Hope to keep it going comfortably while going over the other car. Put a camera down where I couldn't see and snapped away and got a good look at the mounts which have never been done, All good. Should use a laptop connected to the camera and roam around taking screengrabs. Another day.

the internal heater cores are known to fail
check the front floor carpets for moisture

Thank you for the info.
I peeled back the carpet at the corner (where the footerest is) and felt the walls and foam below the heater and it and carpet seems quite dry.

When I flushed the coolant system I did take care to wiggle the heater baffle a lot while running flush through and when draining, then filled with ccoolant, let that burp, hardly anything but I persisitewd for about ten minutes, then resealed it and checked the tank at max. This morning it is at max. Perhaps there was no leak but I had at times neglewcted to keep the tank level right and at times the radiator sucked in some air leading to a buildup of air which now seems gone. I'll see in time. Thanks for the help.

I swapped the rebuilt plenum/throttle body in the ts390000 and the noise is back. Tomorrow I hope to get around to the oil change. Apart from having all bits set back to factory I set the idle and found the noise came back oparticularly at low idle and smoothed out but still there at ~800.
_______

If anyone in the perth / regional area wants a muffler like this (off a ts130000) Nothing wrong with it for its purpose (imo)

I'd like a standard muffler. I live in a small regional town and it's not right to have a sports muffler here. Especially coming home late and leaving at sunrise.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1517_zpsbfbcd19b.jpg

put rebuilt plenum on - didn't seem to make much difference except made the engine run smoother
changed oil and filter - the startup clicking, ticking has stayed gone now except for very briefly on startup in morning and in evening if I haven't used it during the day
cleaned breather pipes, PCV - huge difference to throttle response, better economy
replaced all belts and the timing belt tensioner - had to reset the idle, it zooms momentarily to around 1500 and drops to 800 pretty much straight away but it's not stable, very temp related
replaced plugleads and cleaned the distributor cap and rotor - idles much better, still good throttle response,
overall : markedly better gear change and throttle response et.c. with better fuel consumption.
still not happy with the idling speed but it seems overall so I can feel confident about using it for some time while fixing the other one.

I'll be replacing the heads soon but have to get the gear and info on setting timing first which I think I have the necessary info on from other posts here..



I still don't understand how a persistent noise for years seems to have vanished after as decribed in post one except for very brief period on startup after standing for hours.
____________

If anyone has any tips on what to look for to >permanently< remove the air conditioner and anything associated with it and have no problems with the warning lights or anything please post. My initial idea is to just remove it and deal with anything as it arises.
Any search I've made merely describes how to replace a unit.
I want it gone.

My TS has always had a lifter tick on first start. Sounds like only one out of the set, about 1 tick per half sec at 700RPM idle. Always goes after the engine has warmed up. Gets noticably worse if it's low on oil, so topping it up tends to make it settle down again.

Interesting findings on the cleaning of the PCV and breather pipes with regards to engine performance and fuel economy. I'll have to try that myself.

Yeah, I was impressed by the difference it made.

I found the following helpful.

The plastic jar is from a crushed garlic container from the supermarket filled with (very volatile) acetone. Used to soak small parts in.

A small funnel and a piece of auto trans hose from a wreck. It has got the necessary bends. I did the front (or left) rocker cover off the engine and the right by using a hose and the little funnel to put in a couple of cc's of acetone, let it soak and then blew it out with the compressed air. (don't touch or breathe in the acetone and definitely don't smoke wnile using it, It's very flammable)

A throughly cleaned out and rust proofed gas bottle with the safety valve drilled out and a shraeder valve from a tyre valve with the black rubber stripped off and cleaned off by leaving in acetone overnight and then scrubbing to bare brass (with the valve bit removed of course) then brazed in by a local plumber and painted grey and with the orange standard hose fitting complying with standard of grey with an orange stripe to signify compressed air,.. the valve bit put back in and a tyre air compressor used to bring it up to 100psi. Good for blowing out fuel lines et.c..

A tube spanner to remove PCV valve.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1541_zpsf1a8bab6.jpg

The engine (390000ks') with rebuilt plenum and TB. showing location of PCV and breather hoses.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1540_zps713c0b87.jpg


edit add : re the removal of distributor cap : unbolt the thing above the cap held on by two bolts onto the plenum runner. Poke in a rag to catch any cuttings and cut off the lower mount. It only needs one. pull out rag carefully. Now the cap can be turned a bit clockwise and with the rotor turned (by turning the motor with a 22mm socket the harmonic balancer bolt) so the rotor is oriented diagonally. The cap will now slip off easily and replace in same way. Saves having to take the intake off

I assume by your work so far you have a repair manual

1#I dont know if the under dash sections have to be removed or can stay

you will have to take out the dash ..if it isnt easy to get out , through the glove box area

2# make sure you can buy the shorter drive belt that will work without the compressor

3# use the second fan ..wire it into the engine cooling fan later

de gassing legally is the first problem- but not if the gas in the system has leaked out or is stuffed

push the valve in to make sure there is no gas in the pipes ..It can blind or burn you

brake pipe spanners help a lot

wiring can stay ..insulate and secure with zip ties ,, if concerned ..dont just cut them

you start at the engine bay hoses and pipes to undo then remove the compressor

then the dryer

the cooling condenser is a very hard job ..you may want to leave that

it is held in with bolts

if not I am not sure if the front bumper etc and radiator has to be removed to get it out

the head bolts need a hex torque adaptor.. not a socket
always fit new head bolts

A timing belt and waterpump write up is in the FAQ pinned section

thought there was a head removal write up .... how strange ....anyway

sometime all goes well sometimes not

give yourself a weekend

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1197253#poststop

I assume by your work so far you have a repair manual

1#I dont know if the under dash sections have to be removed or can stay

you will have to take out the dash ..if it isnt easy to get out , through the glove box area

2# make sure you can buy the shorter drive belt that will work without the compressor

3# use the second fan ..wire it into the engine cooling fan later

de gassing legally is the first problem- but not if the gas in the system has leaked out or is stuffed

push the valve in to make sure there is no gas in the pipes ..It can blind or burn you

brake pipe spanners help a lot

wiring can stay ..insulate and secure with zip ties ,, if concerned ..dont just cut them

you start at the engine bay hoses and pipes to undo then remove the compressor

then the dryer

the cooling condenser is a very hard job ..you may want to leave that

it is held in with bolts

if not I am not sure if the front bumper etc and radiator has to be removed to get it out


Yes I've got a manual from a link here plus a hardcopy of same. (a mechanic gave me it and 2 tp,2 tm,and one tn, plus 1 galant mitsubish service manuals which are for sale, I figure 40 bucks plus postage is fair (?). I have no need for them) Plus a gregories. Good for a lot but hands on direct experience is invaluable.

2# I wondered about this as the belt drives, off the harmonic balancer pulley, only the compressor and a tensioner pulley. What would happen if the tensioner is also removed and there is no belt? Can't think what unless unbalancing the crank??

3# Do I just wire it in series with the engine cooler fan? Do I have to worry about fuses?

The rest I should be able to work out except having not done it and experienced the result, is it a 'stand alone' unit or does it not being there impact on anything else?

crank or harmonic balancer # wont be an issue ..will run straight ..has to..... even if you break any drive belt on any motor

2# undo and remove the tensioner pully , adjuster bolt and its keeper.. .. pully should have a single bolt through its centre

3# myself I like to put an inline fuse on the old air con fan circuit .. ..the engine fan relay should handle the draw

Yeah, I was impressed by the difference it made.

I found the following helpful.

The plastic jar is from a crushed garlic container from the supermarket filled with (very volatile) acetone. Used to soak small parts in.

A small funnel and a piece of auto trans hose from a wreck. It has got the necessary bends. I did the front (or left) rocker cover off the engine and the right by using a hose and the little funnel to put in a couple of cc's of acetone, let it soak and then blew it out with the compressed air. (don't touch or breathe in the acetone and definitely don't smoke wnile using it, It's very flammable)

A throughly cleaned out and rust proofed gas bottle with the safety valve drilled out and a shraeder valve from a tyre valve with the black rubber stripped off and cleaned off by leaving in acetone overnight and then scrubbing to bare brass (with the valve bit removed of course) then brazed in by a local plumber and painted grey and with the orange standard hose fitting complying with standard of grey with an orange stripe to signify compressed air,.. the valve bit put back in and a tyre air compressor used to bring it up to 100psi. Good for blowing out fuel lines et.c..

A tube spanner to remove PCV valve.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1541_zpsf1a8bab6.jpg

The engine (390000ks') with rebuilt plenum and TB. showing location of PCV and breather hoses.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1540_zps713c0b87.jpg


edit add : re the removal of distributor cap : unbolt the thing above the cap held on by two bolts onto the plenum runner. Poke in a rag to catch any cuttings and cut off the lower mount. It only needs one. pull out rag carefully. Now the cap can be turned a bit clockwise and with the rotor turned (by turning the motor with a 22mm socket the harmonic balancer bolt) so the rotor is oriented diagonally. The cap will now slip off easily and replace in same way. Saves having to take the intake off

For some time I'd suspected worn rings as the crank case pressure seemed a reasonable suspect for not being able to stop the filler cap from leaking a little bit as well as some odd oil seepage at various points where I had changed seals and caskets. Last time I changed oil, a couple of weks ago, I drained it with the engine on.. wow. There's now a very clean area of the driveway after scrubbing it up. So following hints from other topics I got around to cleaning the breather hoses and the PCV , very overdue and very satisfactory result. No more seepage.

Since doing the other stuff the idle has been drifting and generally hard to set to anything reliable. It turns out to have been two things.

One lead was damaged. - replaced and engine now very smooth, no little vibrations as before.

The plenum intake needed retightening. - Idle good, steady within specs, for now

I also replaced the fuel pressure control valve because when I did the fuel filter I noticed the pressure was gone indicating it bled out through a faulty valve, I also replaced the airflow sensor body and cleaned and gapped the plugs and gave the air filter a good shake. Lots of pollen around here, as usual, this time of year.

re air con. doing that on a wreck to start with to see what's needed. I think I'll try to start witth to just take the belt off on the ts370000 and see how that goes. (?)

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1550_zps80133482.jpg

Will be replacing the catalytic converter and the O2 sensor this weekend.
Also rather than pay a mechanic to set the timing I'll buy a timing light and do it myself.
Atm trying to work out which timing light to get. I'm assuming just a standard cheap strobe type is sufficient (?).

In order to work out 'how to' I found various mentions of a 'blanking cap' et.c. that leads to a wire that needs earthing for an earthed 5 degrees BTDC and unearthed to 15 degrees BTDC

Here I assume that when I take off the cap it's the exposed terminal that needs earthing. (?).

My main q is : What is the gray plastic button in the 'blanking cap' for.

I've looked inside and it seems to, when pushed, depress a plastic plunger over the terminal. There seems to be no return spring and I cannot figure out what it does. Obviously it is supposed to do something. But what. ?

yes- normal strobe light ..not that cheap really

stupud repair manual

I cant find that 5 deg bit in the repair manual in tuning

Cant tell if this for both engines either

Ignition timing - basic (hose to outer can disconnected
and plugged). . . . .5 +_ 2 B.T.D.C. @ idle speed
- idle advance (hose connected to
outer can). ................ 13 + _ 4 B.T.D.C. @ idle speed

I think thats the figures for the carburetted 4 cyl. For the 6 cyl efi it's 15 unearthed. I agree about manuals. Even with a hardcopy (I find the pdf's search functions which I suppose are ocr based often misses things) it's a chore with things scattered all over the place. Still the info seems to be there, except for some things which I find very interesting, like the replacement of the bushes on the VIC and even a thorough description of that system, plus what is that button on the tiuming 'blanking cap'. Seems there's nothing about that either.

edit add :

OK, this is my guess so far.

It is a switch. The whole cap and body is a switch with a component missing. This switch enables the grounding of the terminal without taking off the cap : for easy timing. The bits that actually makes it a switch is useful but also perhaps not good because a 'once in a lifetime' timing adjustment can be done anyway but a thoughtless or accidental pushing of the switch that can cause it to jam in an earthed position so as it basically is a simplifyer of a task that simplkicity and time saving is found in regular and factory settings and likely the copmponent is removed after setting to be used again in another car.

If so, it can just be ignored but used as a cap over the earthing terminal. For that there seems to be a slot for anorther terminal but no wire going from it, plus a plug that's not plugged into anything but just tied to the switch body. Presumably this was to plug something else into.

Maybe if one wired the second slot to earth the one can with a bit of wire make another terminal so there are two in the body and then just use an alligator clip to connect them.

Will only be a switch if there are two wires going into the "can", otherwise there is nothing to switch the incoming wire on to. Probably only an insulating cap with a high-vis dot on it to make it easier to see in a grubby engine bay.

Pretty sure thre is a plate fixed to the underside of the bonnet which details the recommended idling RPM and timing advance setting.

Edit: just checked the plug in my TS. 99% certain it's just a single wire with a big protective cap on the end of it. No switching going on when you remove the cap. I also have the small rectangular connector next to the timing advance cut terminal (the can+cap arrangement) that you mention. No idea what it's used for, but can only assume it's for diagnostic/tuning purposes. Plate detailing the idle RPM and timing advance settings is located on the underside of the bonnet just above the battery in my car.

The cap on left.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1554_zps1d6f251c.jpg

In the middle is the plastic rod that the rubber button pushes down. On both halves there are mouldings and holes that indicates there was indeed a component in there. It makes most sense, given the rubber button and the pointy plastic rod it actuates, that at one time there was an earthing mechanism there but now the cap merely acts as a protective cap. For the purpose of timing now, imo, it can be ignored. Still, if possible, it would be interesting to have one.I suspect that for ease of rapid multiple vehicle settings the car at factory used a complete module and that with the inners gutted the cap acts as just a cap or it's a module that is used differently in another model and here just as a cap..


Found the label under bonnet. Thank you.

Got a new timing light on special for 28. (Am going to keep my eyes open for a spare at op shops).

I looked at the 2 wrecks earthing module and one of them had an extra component that seems to make the button use clearer (minus a return spring). In one there is a plastic mould that fits over the prongs and allows the button and the plastic rods conical tip to push the terminal onto the plastic half moon rod. Hopefully I'll learn more over time.

Re timing settings. I've read that as this angine came from the overlap of leaded and unleaded petrol the timing settings were aimed to function with unleaded but conflicting info is whether it applies significantly to either premium or lower octanes. What I'm trying to find now is figures for both and what is optimum for using either and as a sideline for future re dual, lpg and unleaded.
It has alsso led me to consider the knock sensor. Later//

I've tested the timing light and it works very well and to me I'm interested in how the oddly repetitive set of fluctuations around 15btdc correspond with the remaining matching periodic vibrations of the engine. Driving a 200k round trip yesterday it reminded me how that has been a feature of the car since I got it though it is more noticable now, at idle.

I tried cleaning the PCV valve and breather pipes yesterday to see if it made any difference. Ended up replacing the two breather pipes altogether, as the short one between the PCV valve and front rocker cover was brittle, and split apart when I removed it. Both pipes were pretty well caked up with black oily gunk, so it definitely wanted cleaning. PCV valve still rattled when shaken, but I soaked/cleaned it in acetone anyway to get rid of the sludgy buildup. Definitely freed up a bit once cleaned out properly.

First impressions is that there *may* be a bit more smoothness on acceleration, less "gritty" for want of a better word. Idle is about the same, a teeny bit juddery, wandering around 700RPM give or take when stationary on a warm engine with the transmission in "D". Granted my TS has done only half the Ks of yours, so the improvement may not be as dramatic as what you experienced. Time will tell if fuel economy has changed. Was getting 400 Ks per tank on city driving, and 450+ Ks combined city/highway.

I think you're right there. It seems a number of back to specs chaanges I've been making have led to significant improvements. At this point with, I think, the O2 sensor and knock sensor left to do, and getting the timing right, the improvements are more subtle. (gotta remember to do the fuel pump as well once I've cleaned the injectors. Getting close to having a complete injector test rig built to see that they are all within specs and identify any that may need ultrasonic cleaning. I've got a number of the components I need to put together a small untrasonic cleaner but that'll take a while. A local mechanic will clean individual injectors for just over 20 bucks each so that'll do till I have my own cleaner.)

The metal tubes on my rocker covers were just about blocked and the only way I could unblock them was to use a little funnel on the end of the hoses to get a couple of cc's of acetone/degreaser (the reason I used both there is that acetone loosens it up very well but evaporates very quickly so a bit of degreaser in after the acetone keeps it soft so then I can use the compressed air to blow the blockage out. I tried a tobacco pipe cleaner but it wont go around the bend and from inside the rocker cover it is impossible to access the pipe as there is a metal baffle in the way, presumably to prevent oil splashing up there.

Reightening, carefully, when the engine was cold in the morning (the gap seals when warmed up), the bolts/nuts holding down the rebuilt plenum on the intake manifold was important too. There was a slight leak that messed with the fuel mix.

Got a new timing light on special for 28. (Am going to keep my eyes open for a spare at op shops).

I looked at the 2 wrecks earthing module and one of them had an extra component that seems to make the button use clearer (minus a return spring). In one there is a plastic mould that fits over the prongs and allows the button and the plastic rods conical tip to push the terminal onto the plastic half moon rod. Hopefully I'll learn more over time.

Re timing settings. I've read that as this angine came from the overlap of leaded and unleaded petrol the timing settings were aimed to function with unleaded but conflicting info is whether it applies significantly to either premium or lower octanes. What I'm trying to find now is figures for both and what is optimum for using either and as a sideline for future re dual, lpg and unleaded.
It has alsso led me to consider the knock sensor. Later//

I've tested the timing light and it works very well and to me I'm interested in how the oddly repetitive set of fluctuations around 15btdc correspond with the remaining matching periodic vibrations of the engine. Driving a 200k round trip yesterday it reminded me how that has been a feature of the car since I got it though it is more noticable now, at idle.

What I have learned(?) so far regarding timing settings.

Timing can be set to suit different fuels. Gas, PULP and ULP et.c. .

For gas it seems that it works best if the timing is fixed, ie. after set to say 15 degrees btdc with the earthing terminal earthed it is best to leave it earthed.
With petrol, set it to 5 btdc earthed and then unearth so that the ecu controls timing to around 15 degrees.

The flutuation I note, when unearthed, alll are a matter of one or two degrees fluctuations around the 15 degree mark. Is this what the +/- 2-3 degrees ithat the specs refer to or/and can one use those flutuations to diagnose things (?)

I have two questions :

1. Is there a resource that gives the various settings for the 6g72 3l for different fuels.

2. When I changed the timing belt I had all the timing marks on the cams and the crankshaft timing belt sprocket lined up with the marks on the engine.

I found that when I put on the plastic cover with the timing marks on, the mark on the harmonic balance pulley does not match its 0 degrees tdc mark but rather 1 degrees btdc. I rechecked and indeed it is so.

When I attached the timing light and earthed the earthing terminal the timing is steady at 5 degrees btdc. (no flutuations, which is to be expected so why the 5 +/- 2 degrees?) If one then sets it at 3 degrees and was to get a reading of 18 degrees (15 + 3) then would 3 btdc eathed and 18 btdc unearthed be acceptable??

So : is the timing then set a 4 degrees btdc or at 5 degrees btdc. ?? Does thisn then imply that an acceptable range, using the marks on the plastic cover, for the engine is 2 degrees btdc unearthed and 19 degrees unearthed the acceptabvle range. (2 and 19 and 7 and 13 as outside ranges?) I hope my questions make sense. If not please point out flaws in my thinking.

edit add :

below/behind the middle injector. > a gap, through which metal mount (on which knock sensor is mounted) can be tapped with a metal bar.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1570_zps712b1e9d.jpg

I connected up the timing light (unearthed timing, went to jaycar and got a couple of mini alligator clips and used a bit of wire to make an earthing thing, easy to clip on and off.) and tapped the metal next to the knock sensor which is a mount for it that is bolted on to both cylinder banks.

The timing momentarily advanced about 3 degrees and returned to around 15 straight away with each of about three spaced taps.

I take it then that the knock sensor works. (?)

Difference between exhaust in a early '95 wagon and late 94 sedan.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1574_zpsfa895504.jpg

Overall the whole assembly is of the same length. From front to rear of cat: same. The first pipe length from the catalytic converter to bend is a couple of inches shorter on the wagon, the second length the same and the third is a couple of inches longer on the wagon. The first mount after the cat is the same, the second is off by about three inches and the join to the muffler on the wagon is at a different angle to the sedan. (Interchangeable with mods.)


Here's a pic of a 250k+ old O2 sensor and the condition of the same k+ cat. Cat innards in varying bits from dust to large lumps

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1579_zpscc4fc556.jpg

All threads are servicable but partially stripped on three bolts : 2 shield mounts and one cat stud + nut.
The gaskets are falling apart.
The, considerably younger in mileage, wagon parts are ok.

Lots of good stuff you're unearthing here :thumbsup:

Based on your queries in the other thread regarding PC software for interrogating the ECU I've dug out my old PIC programming notes from years ago and started writing some code to build up a basic scan tool for the TS. Some of the test methods you're describing will come in handy when I need to validate the data I'm able to pull out of the ECU (eg, tapping the metal surround to verify knock count in the ECU, watching timing advance change in response to knock signal etc). Will post updates in the other thread.

Do carry on.

I'm sure you would have a list of all the error codes, but it's worth asking anyway. They're easy to get a hold of.

I think the connector is called MUT II. This post tells you how to put the ECU into diagnostic mode http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44121&p=646979&viewfull=1#post646979

Thanks to this thread, i discovered an issue i would never have found otherwise. Taking out my PCV valve, i quickly found that it was hollow. Lucky the 4cyl PCV fits a V6.
Worth noting, if anybody has a nasty brake shudder that won't go away after changing the rotors and other things, could be worth regreasing the CV's. When i did that, i found there was only 2 out of 3 'bearing disks' in each CV. Darn previous owners!

I'll be following the ECU reader development with great interest. (I'll also be on the lookout for a Palm IIIc.) What hardware are you running the PIC on? I'd like to build/acquire the necessary hardware. Also anything I can do t6o help in testing (I'm not a programmer, I build PC's) please ask.

I'm diving in blind afa error codes go. Because it is so easy to read I'm inclined to ignore that for now and see how what I'm doing affects things, bit by bit, and in time look at the error codes to see what they say.

A hollow PCV. Strange. How does that happen? Thanks for all the tips.
_____________

Changing the cat and o2 sensor has made a difference.

The car smells less and I was able to dramatically turn the idle screw in and fix a new idle that seems to be better. Disconnecting the battery and after a while going for a longer drive to reset the ecu seems a good idea. The check engine light comes on a short while and then off. No idea what that means.

I've got a number of 'projects' going at the same time. There is an underlying purpose for me which is to make the maintenance of my car/s possible with a very limited budget.

I bought a couple of reasonable, registered, maintained, cars for 300$ (200+100) to use as parts and with the set of good tires off one and rebuilding a plenum with functioning parts from both they've paid for themselves now and everything since is free except for a number of tools I've bought to keep future costs down like a pair of long open/ring 19mm spanners for fuel filter change (very easy with the right tools) for 5$ from an opshop, a 28$ timing light (special from autopro), oil, oil filter, spark plugs..all up less than 200$ so far for something that at a mechanic with new parts would have cost in the thousands, mostly in labour and parts markups as excess. I'll keep going like this. Once a car is gutted I sell it as scrap filled with unused metal bits and buy another.

That and learning how to do stuff and getting the tools to do it is to me the most economical way to keep a car on the road maintenacne wise. Having the wrecks helps enormously in learning 'how' as they are on stands with ready access to everything. Once I feel I've mastered it on them and have a part ready to fit on the car I'm working on I do the work easily knowing the tools I'm going to need and having worked out workarounds, eg It is a lot easier to do stuff on the exhaust by removing the whole lot instead of isolate parts, the o2 sensor comes off easily. I keep reading of people having a lot of difficultie with various repairs. I've yet to find one I cannot do without damaging the part though to figure out 'how to' the fuel fiter I cut the near new one off a wreck and worked out how to on a bench so when I put it in to the ts370000, which hasn't been changed for 250+k's, it took 20mins and cost 5$(tools). Again, the right tools and procedure makes it easy.

With the exhausts in above pics:

I bolted the old rear part onto the newer front so the mounts are right but I'm not happy with the whole thing. I'd like to fit the newer rear.

Fortunately the inner diameter of a berlina tailpipe I have is just what the outer diameter of the magna exhaust pipe is. Therefore I can clamp a section on to a cut end of the magna exhaust and rotate the mount plate to match both wagon and sedan mufflers, and possibly others, so the number of future mufflers available increases dramatically and future costs decrease.

I'm curious about the function/name of the long bulging bit after the catalytic converter. Here's a pic of it.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1588_zps182f43c0.jpg

Inside is a set of protruding spirals. In the narrower sedan part they are much less prominent.

What is this thing for?

_____________

I want to make my own high temp gaskets. Has anyone used the technique of using fibreglass matting impregnated with high temp rtv silicon, rolled flat between grease proof paper, which looks ok (youtube) and sounds like they can handle the head and exhaust conditions. I'll be making some for the exhaust and hope am looking for some idea how they'll go as head gaskets. They should handle the pressures and fumes fine and the temps appear to be within what the silicone can handle.

I wonder how they'll go as manifold gaskets.

I'll be following the ECU reader development with great interest. (I'll also be on the lookout for a Palm IIIc.) What hardware are you running the PIC on? I'd like to build/acquire the necessary hardware. Also anything I can do t6o help in testing (I'm not a programmer, I build PC's) please ask.

I'm diving in blind afa error codes go. Because it is so easy to read I'm inclined to ignore that for now and see how what I'm doing affects things, bit by bit, and in time look at the error codes to see what they say.


Thanks for the offer of help. I may yet pick your brains regarding some info on the test methods you're using on your vehicle.

PIC stands for "Peripheral Interface Controller". Essentially a self-contained CPU running its own code that can be written on a PC and transferred over to run as a standalone black box of tricks. The PIC requires no connection to a PC to actually run. The project will be an extension/reboot of the GeekMyRide ECU interface project that I linked to earlier (I have no affiliation with the original author of that particular project).

Error codes can be read out without the use of the MUT. Workshop manual gives a good description of how to do it using a voltmeter. Each ECU (engine, cruise control, ABS, transmission control etc) can be read the same way - look out for references to "self diagnosis" in each section. However, the MUT is required to read the ECU data regarding realtime stuff, and for entering certain commands - things that can't be done using the self-diagnosis methods.

I'm curious about the function/name of the long bulging bit after the catalytic converter. Here's a pic of it.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1588_zps182f43c0.jpg

Inside is a set of protruding spirals. In the narrower sedan part they are much less prominent.

What is this thing for?



It's a resonator. Designed to reduce drone to a minimum.

Thank you for that. Because of the differently aligned muffler mounting plates on the early 1995 wagon I had to reuse the late 94 sedan resonator section. Not happy about that because I want to see what the significantly different resonator on the wagon is like compared to the sedans which I'm used to. So :chop chop ...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1590_zps181030e2.jpg

...for two reasons
to try the different resonator The whole thing is in better condition anyway prob because of half the mileage, at least.
to mod the mount so that it'll fit a much larger number of available mufflers, now and in the future

Based on further reading it seems clear that while it is a good idea and suits the diy mode very well, the fibreglass-silicone gasket is questionable in applications of extreeme heat, pressure and volatile fluids and fumes. ie not for the rarer most extreme of manifold, head, exhaust conditions. It may work much of the time but that's not good enough. So, absent anything to the contrary I'll be focusing on copper and aluminium gaskets made from scrap from scrap metal yards.

[ Just a note : Time and again it is clear that the extra time taken in solving problems is an essential component in economical, effective diy's. Study, patience, time. Thinking outside the box, not adopting the consumerist paradigm.

For example. to complete the exhaust exchange I need five gaskets and for the manifold two. While the ones I have are serviceable and will do for now, the cost of the five (new) is about $30, better spent on scribes and measuring tools, I didn't bother getting a price for the manifold to engine ones. I'm sure that for the price of them I can get sheet material that will allow the making of many, many more gaskets. ( oops.. that was easy. Got 1' by 6' piece of 1/8" aluminium for nothing )

For me, having two wrecks for parts is essential, as is having two cars and a well stocked toolkit/workplace. Whenever I need to fix something and have the choice of paying a mechanic/parts supplier for my needs I can choose to instead buy the tools I need, often at an op shop, pawn shop, scrap metal yard, recycling yards and take the time to make/modify/recondition the part I need and, once that's done, to fit it without breaking stride. One gains the knowledge of how and the means to implement that and save now and in the future and, in turn, readily have money to pay for living costs. ]

Modding the resonator section of the exhaust : The orientation of the plate mount is the only mod needed. The offset hanger is resolved by realising the rubber hanger is just mounted on the other side, and with a spacer using a longer bolt that one's good too.

You and Mad Max should get together, you have the same philosophy about servicing, maintenance & repairs!

I'm sure there are lot;s of independent minded people around.
_______

-When turning the key the check engine light comes on for a few seconds.
-When connecting an led between pin 5 and 6 it flashes on and off evenly, continuously.
-When connecting a digital mm there is a cycling readout of different voltages at a faster rate than the steady blinking of the led.

Am I right in thinking that there are no errors?

If not, what to do?

If yes, I suspect that next I need to change the fuel pump in order to stabilise the idle speed.

The idling has gotten progressively better during this sequence of parts replacement/refurbishment and I wonder if evrything is now zeroing in on the pump being worn and possibly the injectors needing a good clean and flow test (assuming the led readout is indeed signifying a normal state.)

(I think I now get why it is recommended to before (and after) repaisrs to read the error codes)

Are my assumptions/deductions correct and where not please enlighten me.

Check engine light for a couple of seconds with first start of car is normal. If it comes on after that then you'll need to investigate.

Need to "standardise" what pins you're connecting to on the diagnostic plug when reading error codes. When facing the plug, pins are numbered 1-5 on the top row from right to left and 6-12 on the bottom row from right to left. Measuring between pins 1 and 12 is the diagnostic point for the engine ECU - should be a steady stream of on/off/on/off... at 0.5 sec intervals if no errors found.

Pins 3 and 12 is the Active Electronic Suspension ECU (unlikely to be fitted). 7 on/off pulses with 0.5 sec intervals followed by a delay before repeating is normal.

Pins 4 and 12 is the ABS ECU. Steady stream of pulses is normal.

Measuring between pins 6 and 12 is the Transaxle ECU. Steady stream of on/off pulses @ 0.5 sec is normal.

Pins 9 and 12 is the ETACS ECU. Pulses at this pin are dependent on which security feature is being operated at the time (tailgate switch, keys in ignition etc).

Pin 10 is for telling the ECUs to go into diagnostic mode.

Pin 2 is for the 4 Wheel Power Steering. Pin 5 is the Cruise Control. Pin 7 = Climate Control. Pin 8 = SRS system. I'm not sure if these pins can be self-diagnosed?

Not all cars had all pins fitted to the connector. If a car didn't have a particular feature installed the associated pin won't be installed in the plug.

Edit: found error in workshop manual. Pin 8 is definitely SRS, pin 9 is definitely ETACS.

Ok, thank you for that.

Having a bit of difficulty getting it...(and for the sake of anyone else who might)

This is a photo of the socket on the side of the fuse box above right of the drivers feet in the ts advance sedan.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/IMG_1600_zpsc046e95e.jpg

On it are marked marked locations for pins starting with A at top right next to the fuse box, going to E at the bottom right.

On the next row, F is next to A and going down to L next to E.

The right row has 5 possible pin locations with A, B and E being occupied, C and D blank.

On the left row F, H, J, and L are occupied and the others blank.

Using the diagram in the manual : A is 1, E is 5, F 6 and so on.

Is this correct?

I used 5 (E) as self diagnosis output terminal and 6 (F) as earth.

You've connected to the right pins to read the ECU error codes, just labelled them differently.

Using your pic the pin numbering will be:
E = pin 1
D = pin 2
C = pin 3
B = pin 4
A = pin 5
L = pin 6
K = pin 7
J = pin 8
I = pin 9
H = pin 10
G = pin 11
F = pin 12

This page (http://www.evoscan.com/technical-vehicle-manuals/122) lists the descriptions of the pins.

Based on your photo your car must be fitted with ABS, cruise control, auto transmission and an airbag (pins 4, 5, 6 and 8 installed in the plug).

Edit: found error in workshop manual. Pin 8 is definitely SRS, pin 9 is definitely ETACS.