I'll be doing the engine swap to a 380 next week. Would like some input/corrects and hints/tips/tricks from all of those willing to submit constructive input.

I'm looking to take my time and be well prepared/have all the right tools. Last time I did an engine swap was on an old EH holden with my Dad waaaay back in 1993.

Here's MY checklist, or, Steps/plan for the engine swap;

REMOVE ENGINE
==========================================
* Position car so engine crane can be used
* Brakes/steering must function "wheels on" with engine out
- Disconnect battery
- Raise Car
- Remove RF wheel
- Remove splash guards
- Drain Transfer case oil
- Drain Engine Oil
- Drain Engine Coolant
- Remove Y-pipe / Headers
- Remove Acc. Belts & Pullies
- Remove Harmonic Balancer
- Remove RF Brakes
- Mark Strut Alignment to knuckle position for when refitting
- Remove RF Driveshaft nut
- Separate Tie Rod end from knuckle
- Remove RF Drive Shaft
- Refit Tie Rod End to knuckle
- Refit Brakes
- Refit strut
- Mark front tail shaft for alignment when refitting
- Mark tail shaft flange bolts for identification when refitting
- Unbolt front tail shaft from centre shaft, support front shaft
- Remove front tail shaft section front transfer case
- Remove Transfer Case
- Disconnect Heater Hoses firewall side
- Disconnect Transmission cooler lines
- Disconnect engine coolant hoses
- Unbolt & support P/S Pump
- Unbolt & Support AC Compressor
- Disconnect and remove starter motor
- LOOSEN FRONT & REAR ENGINE MOUNT BOLTS - DO NOT REMOVE
- LOOSEN/CRACK CROSSMEMBER BOLTS - DO NOT REMOVE
- LOOSEN/CRACK BELLHOUSING BOLTS - DO NOT REMOVE
- MARK BELLHOUSING BOLTS FOR IDENTIFICATION WHEN REFITTING
- Remove ring gear inspection cover
- REMOVE FLEXPLATE BOLTS - MARK/ID IF POSSIBLE
- PUSH TORQUE CONVERT IN TOWARD TRANSMISSION
- Refit RF Wheel
-------------------------------------------
- Lower Car onto low level ramps (some 50mm high ramps I have for the corner weights)
- Remove Radiator
- Disconnect and remove Alternator
- Remove Strut Brace
- Disconnect throttle cable
- Remove intake/airbox/filter/snorkel
- Disconnect vacuum and booster lines
- Disconnect fuel lines
- Unplug engine harness, leave attached
- Remove upper intake and throttle body - TAPE OVER INTAKE LOWER
- LOOSEN RH ENGINE MOUNT - DO NOT REMOVE
- SUPPORT TRANSMISSION
- SUPPORT ENGINE
- Remove front & rear engine mount bolts
- Remove crossmember
- REMOVE BELLHOUSING BOLTS
- POSITION AND ATTACH ENGINE CRANE
- Remove RH engine mount
- Cover Guards etc with blankets/covers etc
- Lift engine out
- Support torque converter

Engine Out
=========================================
- Remove Flywheel; fit to new engine
- Remove Front rocker cover; fit to new engine
- Remove engine harness; fit to new engine
- Tape over intake lower
- Degrease/Clean engine bay
- Measure EVERYTHING
- PHOTOS!!!
- 3D Scan engine bay
- 3D Scan 3.5 Engine
- Weigh 3.5 Engine
- Clean Transfer Case
- 3D Scan Transfer Case
- Weight Transfer Case
- Photos of Transfer Case!!
- Measure Transfer Case
- PHOTOS OF TRANSMISSION WHERE TRANSFER CASE ATTACHES


Install Engine
==========================================
- Lower Engine into Engine Bay, couple to transmission and support engine
- Attach Bellhousing, bolts in firm
- Refit Crossmember
- Refit engine mounts front & rear
- Refit RH Engine mount
- Remove engine and transmission supports
- Fit Intake upper and throttle body
- DO NOT CONNECT ENGINE HARNESS UNTIL ENGINE HAS OIL!!!
- Reconnect Fuel Lines
- Reconnect Vacuum & booster lines
- Refit & Connect Alternator
---------------------------------------------
- Raise Car
- Remove RF Wheel
- REFIT & TORQUE FLEX PLATE BOLTS
- Refit Inspection cover
- TORQUE BELLHOUSING BOLTS
- Torque crossmember & engine mount bolts
- Fit Starter Motor - DO NOT CONNECT UNTIL ENGINE HAS OIL
- Reconnect heater lines
- Refit Harmonic Balancer
- Refit PS pump
- Refit AC Compressor
- Refit Acc. Belts & pullies
- Refit Transfer Case
- Remove RF Brakes
- Separate Tie Rod end from knuckle
- Refit RF Driveshaft & nut
- Reattach tie-rod to knuckle
- Refit RF brakes
- Refit front tailshaft section
- Refit Headers
- Refit Y-Pipe
- Fill Engine with oil 4L
- Fill Transfer Case with Oil
- Reconnect Starter Motor
- Refit splash guards
---------------------------------------------
- Lower Car
- Refit Radiator
--------------------------------------------
- Raise car
- Refit Engine Coolant hoses
- Refit Transmission Cooler lines
- Lower Car
--------------------------------------------
- Check Engine oil, fill as required
- Check Transmission fluid, fill as required
- Replace engine coolant, raise car/burp as required
- Reconnect engine harness
- Refit intake/airbox/filter/snorkel
- Connect throttle cable
- Refit Strut Brace
- Connect battery
- Check engine oil
- Check Coolant
- Start engine?

Perhaps Mal can run his eyes over your checklist?

Possibly pm him if he doesn't speak up?

Don't forget left drive shaft and the half shaft that goes though the gearbox to the transfer case

Perhaps Mal can run his eyes over your checklist? Possibly pm him if he doesn't speak up?

I don't want to hassle the guy too much. Duly noted though, and I'm not too proud to sing out for help if needed. Just wanted to forge ahead on my own.

I'm pretty sure I can do it, just wanted the hive mind to double check my working out before I get my hand/s dirty.

Don't forget left drive shaft and the half shaft that goes though the gearbox to the transfer case

I can't just leave that in the transfer case?

Thanks for the heads up!

Transfer case will not come out if the output shaft is still there

There is no need to remove tie rods, only bother marking your struts if you have those horrible camber bolts, even still I would recommend simply removing them and then when you re install then (if you must) a/ be careful they do not break and b/ first drive go and get a wheel alignment.

To remove the drive shafts, undo shaft nut, the strut (no need to remove tie rods or brakes) and then remove joint from hub and then from the box. Half shaft or output shaft as it is correctly called, you need a slide hammer with a 8 x 1.25 thread (bolt will do) to get this out.

Also, remove the radiator, gives a little more room

Dont loosen ANY of the transmission mount bolts, not needed
Dont loosen the cross member bolt
Dont take out air con condensor
Do remove upper alternator bracket and alternator, again gives more room and saves punching a hole in the condensor
DO NOT remove heater hoses from fire wall side, if your heater pipes are a little fragile there is a large risk of breaking them, remove them from the motor side.

Personally we would start at the top, get everything off the top of the motor first and then put car up.

Hope this helps

There we go! Thanks Mal.

I plan on printing all this information off and having it on hand before I start. That combined with the manual and a whole three weeks to do the job - not rushing - I am pretty sure I can pull this off.

I'm off to buy a slide hammer.

super cheap sells them

Good luck mate! Eager to hear of your progress and outcome :-)

it helps a lot to degrease, hose down, clean everything to start and as bits are taken off and uncover other things that are oily/dirty including engine bay in general.

it helps a lot to degrease, hose down, clean everything to start and as bits are taken off and uncover other things that are oily/dirty including engine bay in general.

I hear you. Was looking to take a couple of hours in the engine bay doing what I can to pretty things up.

super cheap sells them

Just finished work - HOLIDAYS HAVE BEGUN!!! Now off to Supercheap. Last call for tools I might need.

get a pack of disposable gloves :)

get a pack of disposable gloves :)

Do they come in packs of "right hand" only? Anybody missing a right arm and want to split a pack of gloves with me?

Seriously though, I swiped a pair from work. The good ones that protect your hands and still let you grip small stuff.

Slide hammers. In my town they start at $150 when you eventually find a place that sells them.

Considering my budget I ordered on from fleabay for $50 delivered. Might push back the transplant by a couple of days.

Get a friend to help makes things so much easier...lol

More questions; See image below; This references two circlips at either end off the half shaft between the transfer case and transmission. I need to replace these? Above all, do I have to remove BOTH drive shafts (front left and front right) to remove the transfer case?

Are these circlips out of reach of standard circlip pliers, long nose external circlip pliers are all I need?


http://i.imgur.com/6G2U4yS.png

Both drive shafts ..Yes

Both drive shafts ..Yes

Dam. It

Thanks though, I could have f'd things up.

Circlips are part of the shaft and will stay on the shaft when removed, no need to replace

Circlips are part of the shaft and will stay on the shaft when removed, no need to replace

Okay. Shaft comes out, completely, in order for the transfer case to be removed. No special circlip pliers required, just a slide hammer + M8 bolt.

Thats it.....Now go enjoy....lol

Thats it.....Now go enjoy....lol

Waiting for slide hammer. And a sidekick.