I bought a pair of LEDs for my Verada but the indicators flash much too quickly and I don't want to have another reason to get defected. I've been told to install a relay but I'm not sure where to install one ( in the car ) and I'm also curious as to the actual function of it.

Thanks in advance :)

Ok so you know when you turn your indicators on and you hear that clicking sound? Well that's the flasher unit. It actually clicks because metal inside heats up and straightens out, contacting another piece of metal and creating a circuit. It cools and goes back to its original state, rinse and repeat every 700ms or so. Different loads on the circuit will cause it to heat up faster/slower

I'm not sure exactly how an LED flasher relay works, but it's not that. If its anything like a motorbike, you just remove the existing flasher unit (should be inside cabin, near the fuse box on drivers side) and replace it with an LED flasher relay, done. I'm sure you can get ones that just plug straight in, but in the case of my bikes i've had to run an additional ground wire. I've never done this in a car but i'm guessing you get an LED flasher unit that fits your car and it'll have an additional black wire with a ring connector on the end, just find a chassis bolt and secure it to that which gives you your ground. That's it

Millenium7 is correct. What you've been referred to install is an LED Flasher Relay. Rather than the original flasher relay or flasher can in the car, which uses an "analogue" method to repeatedly open/close the circuit to create the flash, LED flashers use digital electronics to do the same task. Because of this, LED flashers are non-load sensitive, and will "blink" (ie: open/close the circuit) at the rate prescribed by its components, regardless of whether a single LED, LED 'bulb' or incandescent bulb is connected. On the other hand, 'normal' flasher cans are load sensitive as Millenium7 said. The benefit of this is that they can indicate when a bulb has blown by hyperflashing (an ideal "safety" mechanism). This happens because the busted bulb opens the circuit, reducing the load on the flasher unit and making it able to 'perform' quicker, hence the hyperflashing. LEDs have considerably less resistance and generate a much smaller current than an incandescent bulb, so their use instantly reduces the load on the flasher unit and, in the flasher's eyes, simulates a blown bulb which leads to hyperflash.

There are two solutions to your problem: a) you can install the LED flasher and have no problems (my preferred option), or b) place a resistor in parallel to the LED bulb to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb (a load resistor, I'm sure you would have heard of this before too). Do some research into load resistors and you might find out why I prefer the flasher route. Put simply, load resistors are cheaper than a new relay, but you have to deal with the heat output by the resistor. The relay is a simple plug-in replacement. Both methods lose the "safety feature" of bulb-out hyperflash anyway, so that is of no concern. Relays are no harder to obtain these days than load resistors, and as I'll cover in a moment, the need to rewire the flasher relay as Millenium said is no longer necessary.

If I am not mistaken, the pin layout on our factory flasher units is as follows:

https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/timthumb.php?src=http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/specs/car/CF13JL-02.gif&w=75

B = 12V DC in
L = load (output of the flasher)
E = ground

With the flasher grounded through that pin, it is not necessary to have an external ground wire. If you pick up an LED flasher, make sure it's pinouts are the same as that above, or more importantly make sure it is the same as the pinouts of the flasher can in your car. Here is just one example (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13jl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/783/837/) of an appropriate flasher. I have just been through the circuit diagrams in the workshop manual and I am 99% sure that the above is correct, but check your own flasher can just in case. The pins should be labelled on your own flasher, as well as any replacement flasher, but for reference the picture is viewed looking at the pins (so you can see them) from the bottom of the unit.

Please note you can also get "quiet" or "clicking" units, where they either do or do not make an audible click on operation. I have read through legislation on this before (but I make no guarantee of the accuracy of these statements), and I am pretty sure at a minimum you need either audible clicking/tone or a visual light (the one on your cluster) to signify your signals are on. I guess it's best to have both, just in case. That's what car manufacturers do.

I dont see much benefit with LED indicater conversions for our cars given the mucking around with the flasher.
Sure, new cars should be equiped with them as it costs nothing and they use less power, they're faster, etc, but these benefits are marginal especially against the conversion time and cost and risk of something being damaged or not quite right at the end of it.

The key benefit in my view would have to be increased safety, but i just dont believe that an indicator reaching maximum brightness a few milleseconds faster than the existing system would translate into any real safety benefit, except in some very contrived unlikely scenario. If a driver indicates and then immediately turns or changes lanes without looking or giving other drivers reasonable time to react then LED indicators wont save them from their own stupidity!
Remember, putting your indicator on does NOT give you right of way. When changing lanes, merging, etc, it is YOU who must give way to other vehicles, not them give way to you.

Brake lights, yes absolutely, indicators? - nah.

You have missed one major component in the recipe KWAWD: aesthetics. There is just something about the appearance of LEDs that people really dig, be the instant on/off times, the richness/intensity/depth of colour, or whatever else you could like about them. In a manufacturers eyes, not only are LEDs cheap, but they are significantly easier to use and allow for intricate and ornate lighting designs, achieving configurations that were unfeasible with halogen/incandescent bulbs. Of course this point is moot in terms of bunging an LED 'bulb' into your original lights, as you're stuck with the design of the assembly, but to me LEDs still freshen up the car anyway. If I drive behind a VY bombodore ballin' on 22" chromies with its arse dumped so low that only the bogan owner's trousers are lower, and I notice that his near-black tinted Calais tail lights have LED bulbs in them, I still enjoy looking at them. Sure, it's nothing like a properly designed assembly from a new Lamborghini, BMW or Volkswagen — hell I even like the HSV Gen E and Gen F tail lights (more the former than the latter I think) — but each to their own, of course.

You could argue that as the driver you don't personally interact with the indicators in any way, so it doesn't really matter. Then why do we bother installing wheels that look nice? Sure one can pick wheels that are light and strong (for performance or fuel saving or whatever other aim one might have), but why put so much effort into the look of them if you can't see them 99% of the time? Some people find a particular thing worthy of doing, while others do not, and there are many different reasons why one might swing one way or the other...

On the other hand, the "mucking around" with the flasher could not be more simpler:

Check old load sensitive flasher
Buy new non-load sensitive flasher that matches old flasher
Install new flasher, turf old flasher (or keep for J. Case, like I do)
???
Profit

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I didn't think it'd be that simple. I suppose you learn something everyday, and it terms of my first car, I think I'm quite spoiled. Beats my parent's BMW anyday.

You have missed one major component in the recipe KWAWD: aesthetics. There is just something about the appearance of LEDs that people really dig, be the instant on/off times, the richness/intensity/depth of colour, or whatever else you could like about them.
Aesthetics are fine, I've no problem with fancy wheels and whatever else, but replacement LED lights in our indicators? I think its probably subjective as the indicators on my KL look fairly elegant IMHO, and the glow effect as they go through their warm up/cool cycle is pretty cool to see. I think the indicator lenses on my car look top notch, very clean and bright looking. My KH, OTOH, is not so interesting as those lenses have the more diffused simple plastic matt look.

Heres a pic of the KL's lamp assembly, notice the clear lense at the bottom for the indicator. Looks very nice when lit.
http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/p629/Kwawd/618db1d2-86ad-4516-8d1c-9cfcdd4decd7_zps0e37123a.jpg (http://s1159.photobucket.com/user/Kwawd/media/618db1d2-86ad-4516-8d1c-9cfcdd4decd7_zps0e37123a.jpg.html)

I think LED's could look a little cheap in our cars. As you said manufacturers are making them quite fancy on the new cars but having them in our cars might make them look like wannabe's. Guess it depends how its done.

On the other hand, the "mucking around" with the flasher could not be more simpler:

Check old load sensitive flasher
Buy new non-load sensitive flasher that matches old flasher
Install new flasher, turf old flasher (or keep for J. Case, like I do)
???
Profit

Well if its as easy as that then, sure, let people try some and see how they look. I'd be interested to know if there are any lights that look good/stock on the magnas and radas.

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I didn't think it'd be that simple. I suppose you learn something everyday, and it terms of my first car, I think I'm quite spoiled. Beats my parent's BMW anyday.
Please let us know how they look once you've put them in.

I recently experimented with LED indicators and wasn't really happyl. The colour was a bit off for my liking (very dull orange) and not bright enough during the day. In contrast to the white LEDs which are pretty bright, the coloured ones are a bit hopeless. I've got a set of white LEDs in the smaller of the rear KJ tail lights (the top light) and they are of equal brightness to the main tail light.

Anyway, the LED flasher relay I bought resulted in the first indicator flash being longer than the subsequent flashes, and there was an additional 'click' from the relay after switching off the indicator. In other words, I'd switch off the indicator but the relay would add another click without the indicator actually flashing. I also didn't like the indicator sound.:S So all that became pretty annoying so I restored everything to original.

I actually recall hearing of a law in a state or some states where if you put your indicator on and you are a certain distance ahead (Im thinking it might be half a car or more?), then you actually do have right of way. Just what I heard though, havent seen it written anywhere official.

When I installed my angel eyes and wanted to remove the orange indicator cap, I thought an LED made sense. Removing the lens is a bit of a negative as far as light diffusionon goes, so I thought making up for it with some extreme lumens made sense. Plus the theoretical longevity given I have one piece parabolics and Id rather not take my headlight just to change a globe if I can help it. I doubt there is much of a bling factor, but its no doubt a lot brighter! I did have to connect a load resistor across the positive and negative wire of the indicator, but no real dramas. The light up time of a globe might be negligible, but when the sun is hitting your car, you want your signaling lights to be bright as can be to overcome them being washed out. If you buy the first led globes you see, they wont last, they will likely be closer to yellow and they wont be bright either. You really have to buy the right led...

Flasher globes used to be about 15 to 18 watts from memory, so that's about 1 amp or a little more. You could connect a 10 Ohm 10 watt resistor across each led supply or use a single 5 or 6 Ohm resistor. (10 Ohm - 14Volts = 1.4 amps.) The resistors will get as hot as the globe did so some care would be needed as to where it/they were placed. The lower the value to higher the current -- the slower the flasher.
Jaycar should be able to do a 10 Ohm 10 or 20 Watt, 5 Watts might be a bit light on.
Don't think Dick Smith sells components any more. 15 Ohms might give an acceptable flasher speed.

Please let us know how they look once you've put them in.

So after some searching around I've managed to find some decent high-powered LEDs. They sort of look like this (http://i.imgur.com/QEH3FMq.jpg), but even so, it's really not as 'filling' as a normal bulb will be. Throw on a layer of tint and it'll look better for sure. As of now I can say that they are sharp as LEDs are, but you sacrifice the old look of a light bulb with more scattered 'lines' of light.
At night though, they look fantastic. No excuse for someone to say they couldn't see you indicate.

Do you have a link for the product?

I bought these (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231263386404) ones. I probably got ripped off didn't I ....

Pretty much! You can get the same product between $5-$100, got to do thorough searches. Also, not the brightest led around. I have seen some terribly yellow ones too.
If you want me to link you to some really bright ones, let me know. I just installed some in the front and they are doing a hell of a job :) Its a lot of trial and error as their output ratings are very often an absolute load!

Bah..... If I knew they were the same as those cheap ones I'd have bought them instead and got a real good lunch as well ¬_¬ I would like a link if possible.

I haven't looked up the front indicator globe types so I haven't tinkered with them, not to mention how bloody hard it is to get to them.

Sucks to do twice if you have one-piece. Though its not as hard as the manual makes it out to be... Here (http://www.dx.com/p/1156-ba15s-p21w-7-5w-500lm-635nm-5-led-orange-car-steering-light-tail-lamp-12-24v-266867#.VLjQiCuUc0I) is the link. Dx offer free shipping. I honestly dont expect them to last as long as a regular filament, but I do hope they last heaps longer! I think there is a lot of "luck of the draw" when it comes to buying decent cheap LEDs. Ones you know are good cost a lot more money... So far so good anyway!