Finally managed to get my TL wagon off my daughter to do an annual oil change and general check over.

Noticed the headliner is letting go above the front passenger's head - I've retrimmed a few Sigma/first/second gen ones, so no problem, leaving that until it gets worse.

Steering wheel though, foam at the top of the wheel is deteriorating badly and has let go of the steel inner bit.
I've tried injecting glue but no joy.

When the foam does finally crumble, I will need a better one, and some hints regarding the air bag removal and clock spring. Anyone know of a walk through for removing and replacing the steering wheel, and if any Magna wheel (air bag type) off other models will be a suitable substitute?

Haven't pulled a steering wheel off as car in some 20 odd years, as you could guess.

pretty much any 3rd gen wheel will fit, but the Nardi woodgrain one will need a different airbag. disconnect the battery before starting any work on airbags.

if there aren't any replies by the time we replace timtim3's wheel i'll grab some pics.

Hello, here are the steps:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery or at least ensure that the ignition is switched off.
2. Use a T25 or T30 torx bit to undo the two screws at the 3 and 9 position on the steering column shroud which will loosen the horn pad / airbag module.
3. Pull the horn pad / airbag module away and unclip the connector.
3. Unclip the horn wire.
4. Lock the steering wheel and using one of the sockets on a 4 way wheel brace undo the nut (can't remember the size, perhaps 22mm). With some persuasion the wheel should come loose. Take note of its position so that it can be refitted correctly.
5. Using the same torx bit the horn triggers can be removed from the steering wheel.
6. I don't have cruise control so its removal could be another step.

the only other thing I would add is to center the wheel and mark the centre splined shaft and steering wheel with a permanent marker before removing the wheel. that way if you ever think the steering wheel was put back a tooth out you can check it.

There is a DIY in the forum for steering wheel removal and refit on 3rd gens. It has pictures and instructions as well. Link is below
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89456

Great info, thanks guys!

(Followed the link Timtam3, didn't see mention of a clock spring anywhere?)

Off to the wreckers after the new year to see if I can find a good one.

If it's just the steering wheel the clock spring doesn't need to be touched

Just before this is closed off; is there any risk of the air bag exploding/deploying during the job and, if so, any things to check?

If it's just the steering wheel the clock spring doesn't need to be touched

Great! Ta muchly for the info.

Just before this is closed off; is there any risk of the air bag exploding/deploying during the job and, if so, any things to check?

You would hope not. They get handled all the time when putting cars together, so they must be safe.

Just before this is closed off; is there any risk of the air bag exploding/deploying during the job and, if so, any things to check?

So long as the Battery is disconnected, before starting you will be fine. The airbag has a squib charge which needs an electric current to set off. But it is always good to handle with care

Keys on the floor of car
Undo the 2 Torx 30 for the air bag
Remove air bag and unplug
Remove other wiring (cruise and horn)
17mm to partly undo the nut
Bang with fists around the outer of the steering wheel to get it loose
Make sure wheel is in dead straight position
Remove 17mm Nut and wheel

New wheel goes on back in reverse of above

Also as soon as you disconnect the bag there is a little bridging plate which shorts out the 2 terminals, even if you were stupid enough to apply power it will not go off unless you insert the proper plug back in to lift the bridging plate

The idea with the central 17mm nut is not to remove it completely to start with, but to leave it on a couple of turns.
Otherwise you risk whacking yourself in the noggin with the steering wheel when it suddenly lets go, as you have to tug on it pretty damn hard to get it off the splines.
I'm sure Mal has mentioned this elsewhere.

Even with the battery disconnected the capacitors still have the charge required to set off the airbags in case of a mishap, apparently waiting 10 Minutes for the charge to dissipate from the caps is the done thing.
Leaving the nut on til the wheel is loose to avoid pulling it into your head is probably a bigger safety concern, ( as mentioned before ) and marking the wheel to shaft location with a scribe or marker and transferring the mark to the new wheel is a real time saver.

Ensuring you have quality tools when undoing the torx connectors for the bag removal is important, make sure the bit is seated in the bolt properly. They can be a bit stiff.
Stripping the head on those will leave you in quite a predicament... As a few will testify!

I will have to buy a torx bit set as mine have gone rusty. lol
Then a decent wheel from the wreckers.
Swap seems straightforward enough from the info supplied. Thanks gentlemen!

Even with the battery disconnected the capacitors still have the charge required to set off the airbags in case of a mishap, apparently waiting 10 Minutes for the charge to dissipate from the caps is the done thing. Leaving the nut on til the wheel is loose to avoid pulling it into your head is probably a bigger safety concern, ( as mentioned before ) and marking the wheel to shaft location with a scribe or marker and transferring the mark to the new wheel is a real time saver. Ensuring you have quality tools when undoing the torx connectors for the bag removal is important, make sure the bit is seated in the bolt properly. They can be a bit stiff. Stripping the head on those will leave you in quite a predicament... As a few will testify!

What he said :/