I have a bit of a cluttering sound on start up after the car has been sitting for a while (overnight will usually do it)

Does not sound like a lifter.

From what I read on the forums it is likely the tensioner, however I have had my timing belt done with new OEM tensioner recently. The noise seemed to have appear after this though to be honest.

Is there way to test it to make sure before going back to the mechanic who did the timing belt?

Here is a video of it:


http://youtu.be/pJ2QJrcG2tg

Mal's test for a clattering hydraulic cam belt tensioner:
Cold start, get clatter, switch off, wait a bit, start car. If clatter gone, it is the tensioner.

Might also be loose ancillary belts, they had to come off when the cam belt was done and they may not be set up correctly tension wise. Or one of their tensioners was not tightened down correctly.

I've done a total of 2 cam belts on different Magnas, each time I thought I set the ancillary belts up correctly, only to get cold ancillary belt noise after a few hundred km and had to do it again. Current Mitsus have one long belt to run everything, with a spring loaded tensioner. No problems there!

Thanks Max,

The noise goes away after 3-5 seconds or so, so there is real chance to switch off the car and turn it back on.

I will upload a video when I get a chance

Did you recently change the oil filter? Could be a faulty anti-drain back valve. How long does the oil light take to go out when it does it?

I have seen plenty of people fit a new oem tensioner and belt kit and not adjust the set up properly thus damaging the tensioner and causing this noise.

Mal,
Can it be readjusted or does it need replacing?

I have had my timing belt done with new OEM tensioner recently. The noise seemed to have appear after this though to be honest.

Pretty clear it wasn't set up properly.
Take it back, let the mechanic sort it out.
Tell him to let it cool down overnight before he starts it.
Hopefully he won't quibble and fix it.

Did you recently change the oil filter? Could be a faulty anti-drain back valve. How long does the oil light take to go out when it does it?

Yes, some cars are prone to this. However, the oil filter is very low on the 3.5L V6 engine and the opening for the filter is pointing upwards, so there is no way the contents of the oil filter can drain back into the sump. More of a potential problem on the second gen 2.6L 4 cylinder engine.

Most of the time the oil light goes out while you are still cranking and before the engine fires up.

Added a video


http://youtu.be/pJ2QJrcG2tg

Bump...
Can anyone comment on the video?

Definitely sounds like the timing belt tensioner not set up correctly, if he didn't set the eccentric tensioner up as the manual says then it means the hydraulic tensioner runs out of stroke before it can take up the slack.

Can the tensioner be reset or does it have to be replaced?

Definitely sounds like the timing belt tensioner not set up correctly, if he didn't set the eccentric tensioner up as the manual says then it means the hydraulic tensioner runs out of stroke before it can take up the slack.

+1


Can the tensioner be reset or does it have to be replaced?

If the above sloppiness has damaged anything, bits will need replacing. But you won't know until it is opened up. Depends on how long it has been rattling. Should just be a matter of getting the adjustment right.

Have you been back to the bloke who did this job for you initially? It's been a week since your first post!
(If the mechanic is inexperienced with Magnas, might pay to print out the relevant page from the manual for him to read.)

It's been a couple of months since the timing belt change, however I only drive the car once maybe twice a week so it's only made that noise a handful of times so far.

I did print out the relevant pages however it doesn't look like they went through them.

I will send him an e-mail, hopefully this isn't going to be a nightmare

Definitely sounds like the timing belt tensioner not set up correctly, if he didn't set the eccentric tensioner up as the manual says then it means the hydraulic tensioner runs out of stroke before it can take up the slack.

Exactly what I discovered on boxing day 2014 on my 05 Verada wagon.. when one of the cam seals basically "fell out" and oil was gushing out over the driveway.. lucky I looked back at the car ( for some reason) once I started the motor as I went to lock my front house door.. cut the motor and then starting crying...:cry:

The prick I bought it from says he replaced the Belt with a complete kits including hydraulic tensioner, cam seals etc.. only 12 months ago, only a few month before I got the wagon..

A mechanic buddy of mine confirm the seals must have been installed incorrectly as the wear marks clearly showed is was installed on an angle and probably half over the oil galleries in the head...:eek2:

Long story short, the wife mentioned the motor was getting noisier by the week over the last few months... of course only mentioned it when I asked why it sounds like a diesel truck...a week before it shat itself :facepalm

The noise it typically the eccentric tensioner pivoting platform that rests against the Hydraulic tensioner rattling like no-ones business..

So, I Stopped crying, googled alot and read the Mitsi manual till late.. next day, Cursed the guy that sold me the car ( hoping for some instant Karma and the car would be Magially fixed - I've seen the bumper sticker that Magic Happens.. but, that didn't work ).. SO I took it all apart, removed the crap bits to be safe, Spotlessly Cleaned Everything, Replaced Crank and Cam seals lined up with All marks at crank TDC, replaced the belt, idler, tesnioners.. Water Pump was fine as was replaced only 12 month prior.. ( I custom made The Tool to correctly set the eccentric tensioner :woot:) removed the Hydraulic locking pin etc....

YAY!! after a flush and new Fully synth oil, i've NEVER heard a quieter, smoother running 3.5L V6 in my life.. has only 110K on it, so that's part of the quietness I suppose.. :dancin:

As mentioned by other , when you and /or Mechanic pull it all down, if the idler and eccentric bearings seem fine and run smooth and shows No damage you should be able to simply reset it correctly with the right tool.. ;)

NOTE: you Will need to remove and reset the Hydraulic Tensioner as per manual and insert A locking pin Prior to Re-Installation, installing belt etc, setting the eccentric tensioner etc.... This Has to be done slowly and in the correct orientation to ensure you don't get airlock/ bubbles.

Not sure if this is what is the problem but my TJ develloped this noise when cold for about 25 sec at 150thousand K's. When the dealer replaced the timing belts at 100,-000 K's they did not do the tensioner,result another Job K's 50,000K's later. Did the garage actually replace the tensioner or just said they did. It does sound just like a noisy lifter.

In my case I supplied a new tensioner for them to replace.
I have since replaced it with a new tensioner (again) and it hasn't made the noise yet, though have barely driven it

My TL does this every now and again when its cold/been sitting over night. Apparently its the tensioner out side the timing cover or something.
My timings due, apparently it will be fine after i get all the timing belts and what not replaced. I usually get a loose belt sound once its warm or under load.

when a 99 ford mondeo i owned made a similar sound on startup (not as pronounced as the video shows) and a buddy of mine suggested yeah its probably the tensioner. it was actually the oil was too thick for the engine. i think i had 15W40 in it at the time. that piece of shit wanted 5W30 minimum but ran better with 0W30 full synthetic Mobil 1...thank god i was working at holden at the time and all fluids were free for your own car :) ........anyways it was valve clatter/lifter noise cos the oil was too thick. it would go away after a couple of minutes but with the thinner oil it never appeared at all. just my 2 cents, only floating ideas.
peace

Thanks guys,
The tensioner has been replaced a while back and the noise hasn't been heard since :)

Speaking of cam belt tensioners is the NTN brand a good OEM replacement.

Nothing wrong with NTN bearings