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mcs_xi
20-01-2015, 05:06 PM
Hello all,

I haven't contributed here in a while, but I have experienced an issue with my old car (KH XI).

It has a keyless go system, and it presented with not starting properly every time.

You would switch it to ACC and it would delay for 10-20 seconds and then click on, as well as the ON position which would do the same delay. This means the car wouldn't allow the system to fire the starter motor.

So I removed the button and plugged the ignition key barrel back in for testing.

Same issue!

It would also flicker the instrument lights if left in ON and intermittently prevent itself from starting.

I haven't come across this before, and to rule out the keyless system, I bypassed it and reverted the car to factory and was able to replicate the issue. So the keyless system is ruled out.

I feel it is a voltage regulator problem, as the battery is new as of 6 months ago, and the alternator was replaced at the same time. (but with a second hand one). Does the voltage reg affect the starting procedure? I assume so.

Mike

nate_115
20-01-2015, 05:36 PM
hi

ive had a similar issue with mine a few times, it wouldn't crank, not crank the starter long enough, turn on for a second then shut down or It would turn off while driving, when I did some digging one of the fuse holders heats up so much it actually melts (I assume its the constant power wire to the alarm box) its the 30amp fuse, I had to cut it out and put in a different fuse holder, this is the second fuse holder ive replaced since owning the car in two years, I was was thinking there may be to much resistance in the wire so I sanded the paint away from the ground wire and used a beefier fuse holder to handle more heat, 4 months and no problems so far

hope this helps?

nate_115
20-01-2015, 05:56 PM
haha sorry didn't read the second last sentence ruling out the keyless entry system disregard my last post

jimbo
21-01-2015, 06:13 AM
Is this an aftermarket system?

mcs_xi
21-01-2015, 06:16 AM
Yes it is, but it is not the issue here. For the moment it has been removed.

I designed the keyless system so it can be returned to factory really easily (with the correct parts).

So I returned the car to stock and have still got this issue.

In the KH the blackout cluster flickers and the car wont start. Then you turn it off and on again a couple of times the cluster lights come good and it starts first go.

Mike

MadMax
21-01-2015, 09:10 AM
Sounds like it is the ignition switch itself. (I'm assuming both the standard and keyless systems both use the same part.)

It hangs off the back of the standard barrel. It can overheat, burn the circuit board material between copper tracks, and underneath the copper. Then the tracks recede and you get an inconsistent connection on ACC, START. An occasional problem on Mitsus as they age, seen it on a Sigma and second gen Magna.

Not too hard to get the switch off, take off the white plastic cover, and have a look. Any black burn marks on the circuit board means you have a problem.

FIX: Grab two from the wreckers and open up, use the better of the two.

mcs_xi
21-01-2015, 11:05 AM
Sounds like it is the ignition switch itself. (I'm assuming both the standard and keyless systems both use the same part.)

It hangs off the back of the standard barrel. It can overheat, burn the circuit board material between copper tracks, and underneath the copper. Then the tracks recede and you get an inconsistent connection on ACC, START. An occasional problem on Mitsus as they age, seen it on a Sigma and second gen Magna.

Not too hard to get the switch off, take off the white plastic cover, and have a look. Any black burn marks on the circuit board means you have a problem.

FIX: Grab two from the wreckers and open up, use the better of the two.

Hi Max,

The keyless system does not use the ignition barrel anything. The plug for the barrel goes directly into a loom and then into a relay module. So it isn't the back of the switch.

I will look further on the weekend though.

MadMax
21-01-2015, 12:52 PM
Good luck!

mcs_xi
10-02-2015, 07:51 PM
Sorted the issue.

Some numpty had not done the nut on the positive terminal up at all. So the smaller power supply lead was just moving about. I therefore never trust people when they say "yes, it's done properly."

Mike

MadMax
10-02-2015, 09:43 PM
Sorted the issue.

Some numpty had not done the nut on the positive terminal up at all. So the smaller power supply lead was just moving about. I therefore never trust people when they say "yes, it's done properly."

Mike

Never delegate a difficult and important job like doing up a nut to someone else! They may not be competent enough! lol

Want it done properly? Do it yourself!