Not been able to work on any of my Mitsu for some time due to other priorities.
So just been using the Magna TP untill I can get back to the fun stuff.

This morning there was quite a bit of tappet noise on the TP that went away after driving 1/2 a KM or so.
I checked the oil (it was just below the low mark on the dip stick!) and threw in a litre.

I presume the TP has hydraulic tappets and thought maybe one of them has a partially blocked oil passage.
Since it all starts to work when the oil viscosity drops by getting warmed up (I'll know tomorrow morn!).

Don't really need another mechanical project so I am hoping that an oil change will do the trick.

Questions:
Should I change from W50 to W30 type oil?
Should I use an engine flush to clean out deposits?

Some people say to never use engine flush as it can block up the passages rather than clean them!

I notice that mine usually improves after just an oil change. However you may find it worthwhile to try the following procedure. I saved this from an old posting in the 2nd gen. forum but did not record the poster's name so don't know who to credit:


The Valve Lash Adjusters were designed to respond to a pattern of gentle revving to flush the oil out of the little cylinders (those clever Mitsu engineers, eh?)

Warm up the engine.

With the engine in neutral, gently rev it from idle to 3000rpm over a period of exactly 15 seconds. Your goal is a constant gradual increase to 3000rpm. At the 15 second mark, drop the throttle (foot off the gas) to idle. Now let it idle for 15 seconds to complete one 30 second cycle

Repeat the 30 second cycle in #2 from 10 to 30 times. If the problem persists after 30 cycles, this is not your problem. It fixed mine after only 5 cycles - total silence.


I've tried this myself. On some occasions it worked. On others, it didn't. Perhaps it depends on how thick the sludge is in the oil passages. The suggestion of repeating the cycle 10 to 30 times seems a little over the top to me. If it hasn't worked after, say, 12 cycles, it isn't likely to work.

I don't know about engine flush but am dubious of it. Also I don't know enough about oil to give any advice other than that I currently use Valvoline 15W40.

Thanks coldamus.

I just use engine oil for older cars and these mostly seem to have a 20W50 spec.
Going xxW30 is just a bit thinner when hot (I think!).
I don't actually even know what is available with a W30 spec!

Interesting procedure - can't hurt to try - so I will.
Unless its already gone quiet (hoping like mad!).

No tappet noise this morn (other than the usual second or 2 until the oil gets pumped!).
Still totally in 2 minds about adding in some engine flush and letting the car idle for 10 minutes before draining the old oil.

if you are having tappet problems i would use the W40 range

I dont use flushes on an astron with high milage you may dislodge more carbon deposits than you want to

in ACT I would have thought you needed to change the oil to the seasons

Myself I dont think a synthetic oil should be used in an Astron 2.6 engine

in the service book it shows what oils to use when its cold weather or not

a W 40 should suit the ACT in summer then maybe a W 30 in the winter

W 50 is for high temp operation .

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/magnabuff/magna/oilchart.jpg (http://s253.photobucket.com/user/magnabuff/media/magna/oilchart.jpg.html)

Hi magna buff

I must finish my thread on cleaning fuel tanks and fixing the fuel sender (all is ready to be put back!).

There is a very similar table in the haynes service manual, except it tells you to choose the lowest possible SAE rating from the table (for the expected atmospheric conditions).
I backed away from the xxW-30 oil eventhough the motor mechanic down the road suggested that this thinner oil will most likely silence the hydraulic tappets.
Instead I went looking for 15W-40 (to avoid a bucket load of viscosity modifiers - high viscosity index!)

Went with 10W-40 instead, as Repco had a new Penrite oil on 1/2 price sale ($25 for 6 litre advantage semi synthetic!).
Its mostly mineral oil but these blend's are a bit more stable (less viscosity modifiers).

Changed oil today, in between the spot showers (got peeved with that!).
It sure is thinner when you pour it in, but car still sounds the same. Tappets are still quiet!.

Going to flush the lash adjusters as per coldamus procedure above.

Also the 'O' ring is not a typical metric size, it's very thin.
Try anything a bit thicker and it will tear between plug and sump.
Lucky for me, the motor mechanic had proper 'O' rings for Magnas.

Now, what to do with all these "KMart clearance" of Wyns bottles of oil flush I bought.
Tried one on the Sigma and it didn't kill the engine.
But the oil always looks dirty, even after a change and with or without this product.
(maybe not terribly effective!)

its february already

yes to 15-W 40

keep the Wynns engine flush stuff for next time the tappets go noisy

When I had my TN the Magna guys who use to service it told me to change the oil on the astron every 10,000kms or earlier, once I started doing that I had a lot less drama with it.

Just a heads-up: Supercheap have 5 litre Valvoline 15W40 on special until 8th February at $15.90 (half-price). Very convenient as I'm about to do an oil change on mine. Also, a standard 14mm spark plug washer gives a good seal on the sump plug.

I'm about to do a transmission oil change too and just waiting for the filter/service kit to arrive. I went for the roadworthy check on Friday and passed with no trouble, so now registered for another year. The mechanic said mine is the most comfortable car he gets to drive all year.

I bought that 5 litre of valvoline 15W-40 as well ($3/L is really good value). Will keep it for the sigma!
The 6 litre penrite semi synth I think is better value eventhough its 10W-40 and costs an extra $1/L.
At operating temperature they are the same viscosity but the 10W is a bit thinner when cold (it does get cold in Canberra - [when politicians leave]).
My thinking is that this will get the oil up quicker to the lash adjusters and still have the reduced viscosity additives (being semi-synth).
Win - Win at a good price - unless the the old engine starts to leak like sift! (going to buy another 6 litres tomorrow so I can flush the Magna again 4K later).

Meanwhile - there was a largish hole in the resonator just below the incoming exhaust pipe.
Gave the car a nice bassy hum!
Patched it up today by pop riviting a steel plate over the top and some high temp epoxy inbetween and over the hole.

And still the rain keeps on interfering with my efforts (if only I could get that verada out of my garage!).

Are the rear exhaust bits still available from mitsu?
The hold down brackets seem pretty much integrated onto the resonator and it would be a fiddle to renew it with something general purpose.

Are the rear exhaust bits still available from mitsu?
The hold down brackets seem pretty much integrated onto the resonator and it would be a fiddle to renew it with something general purpose.

I don't think Mitsubishi keep any 1st or 2nd Gen parts these days but the exhaust parts available on eBay and from Repco, etc. are exact clones so should fit without any hassle.

Indeed I spotted them on Ebay - "priced about 1/3 of the whole cars value" - hope my patch will last a few years!.

The tappets have gone silent!
On replacing the oil with the 10W-40 semisynthetic.
And for a few days, I also flushed the lash adjusters with a couple of "cleaning cycles" after using the car (maybe 10 cycles all up).
Both measures seem to have made a contributing difference.

I've been changing oil in the TP for years..gone thru many brands and weights, and in recent times oil for older engines. In my latest engine, I have just put Shell Helix Yellow in (I think it is 20W50). I noticed that the oil went quite dirty quickly, even though I cleaned the head and piston tops. My mechanic mate told me it was because the oil galleries weren't cleaned. So I went and checked the packaging and it says advanced cleaning technology or something - it appears that this oil has a detergent added to it or something. Anyway, i will run the oil for 1000km or so and drop it as the engine has been idle for several years. I will probably use this oil again as it is a good general purpose oil, and the engine is in quite good repair.
The other thing I do is put Wynns or SCA oil flush in the system every 2 oil changes or 10,000km, when I do the filter. It helps keep the engine clean. It was recommended to me by another mechanic.
As for tappet noise, it usually starts to appear when the oil is getting low or old. Recommend the flush and fresh oil at regular 5k intervals.

There seem to be 2 schools of thought on the engine flush.

Don't do it, as it might dislodge to much of the build up deposits causing blocked the galleries, and parts may not be properly lubricated during the flush.
Do it as it gets rid of these build up deposits and keeps the engine clean.

I think if you do them as per instructions and as part of the oil maintenance regime, then its probably a safe/fair thing to do.

I've used engine flush a few times on my Sigma but the new oil still goes black instantly.
I wonder if there is a gentle way to do an oil flush.



I think all oils have detergents in them for cleaning and to keep particles suspended.
Cheaper oils just have a shorter "detergent" life.

Using Castrol Magnatec 10W-40, very quiet, better to use kerosene for flush, little bottles of flush waste of money

How do you use kerosene for flushing?
Drain the oil and pour/drain kerosene to collect more sludge.

Some new oil and kero 50/50 mix, run the motor a few minutes and drain