Hey folks this is my first post, need to know if this CD changer/cassette player is able to be taken out (and replaced with a modern one), I have tried but there must be a more technical way around it, its a 2000 Verada (if you need further info just ask)

http://dualityfreak.deviantart.com/art/Old-Skool-Stereo-515705338 (U061)

(if the image doesn't load heres the link: http://dualityfreak.deviantart.com/art/Old-Skool-Stereo-515705338)

Now when I say broken I mean; I try to insert a disc but it doesn't go in, it feels solid, the Tape player jumps from Tape to FM.

If you don't use the changer or cassette player, I'd be inclined to upgrade to a more modern, reliable aftermarket unit.

I have a unit lined up, probably wasn't clean in my post and might go and edit it but I am having trouble removing the current unit

Found a video on "Radio Removal in a Magna TJ" it looks identical to mine, so I am going to try this and document for future reference :D

Yes indeed you can, and it is a very simple process.

EDIT: Turns out you may have found the videos I speak of anyway (I had dinner during writing this, so it took me longer than expected) but here goes. For starters, watch this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaWhsQYsnrs) on YouTube. The bloke in the video seems to not have much technical knowledge about the "things" and "units" he pulls apart (you'll see what I mean), but the general process is there in video form which should be very helpful. Here is another video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OumNUmN80x4), which shows you the same removal of the radio surround with climate control rather than standard HVAC. These are just a couple good videos for cross-referencing while you do yours.

With that in mind, there are a couple points I wish to extrapolate on a bit more:
Most of the plastics are held in by clips, which can be quite tight to pull out. Don't be afraid to pull harder if it is not coming out. The videos point out where there are screws that need to be removed, otherwise it's all clips.
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The removal of the air vents at the top of the dash is not necessary for climate control cars (although it makes things much easier for HVAC; see first video). The "black rubber tube thing" from under the driver's kick panel in the first video is part of the right-hand wheel on these air vents, which controls the "cool" (blue) or "normal" (white) airflow for use during demisting mostly (I think so anyway; check your car's user manual, it's in there). It only needs taking off to allow the air vents to come off/out. If you watch the second video, they seem to not unclip it. It may be wise to unclip it anyway to prevent damage, just remember to put it back on at the end. Move the wheel up and down while watching the mechanism from under the kick panel to tell how it is meant to work, so you can put it back together properly once you're done.
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As for using a cloth-covered screwdriver to unclip the air vents to gain access to the top screws (Video 2 style), this is a valid option, although I've always just used my fingers by pulling from the lip where the clock/screen is (Video 1 style). It can be uncomfortable as the clips hold on tight, but it gets the job done. As I said don't pull it all the way out for climate control, just lift it up and out the way a little like in Video 2, otherwise you will have to make sure the "black rubber thing" is routed back in the right way around the dash bracing. You won't see a "blue rubber thing" in your car (Video 1), as that is a manual HVAC wire for controlling airflow position (feet, face/feet, windscreen demist, etc); climate control does this with an electric motor instead.
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Strong magnetic screwdrivers are a godsend. Losing those little screws is a PITA, although they are used all over the car and are easily obtainable from a wrecker.
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Once all the screws are out and you've pulled the radio surround from the dash, unclip the climate control connectors and hazards switch to give more wire leverage/length to work with. Remove all the wires to the radio, including the aerial (thick black coax-style wire) and undo the screws holding the plastic radio surround to the climate box and radio brackets. The rest should be straightforward if you are capable with screwdrivers.
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I strongly suggest you obtain some radio wiring harnesses as well, to make the wiring of the new radio a cinch. Not only that, but if/when it comes time to replace the radio, or revert to stock for whatever reason, then it's a simple swap out of the plugs. Nobody likes having to undo permanently soldered or, heaven forbid, shoddy twist-and-tape jobs from previous owners (I'm dealing with this now with my donor TJ VR-X, it has really ticked me off). Aerpro sell these, and they are available from your local car store or JB HiFi.
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I personally have used the Aerpro APP0111 (http://aerpro.com/app0111) harness to go from the factory plug to an ISO plug, and from there one of the Aerpro aftermarket headunit harness compatible with my headunit (ISO to Sony). No cutting or soldering of wires anywhere — although I am confident in this area — it works straight out of the box, and, best of all, the original car wiring remains in tact. Of course all other electronics precautions must be considered still, such as keeping stray wires like the amp trigger wire (normally blue) safe from earthing if you don't use it, etc.
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Remember to plug all of the connectors all the way in when you are done, especially the hazard lights switch! So many people have asked "Why are my indicators not working?" which is always met with a response of "Have you changed your radio recently?" 99% of the time the reason indicators aren't working is because the hazards switch was not plugged in. Check the plugs for climate control are in too.

Cheers for that, going to get onto it as soon as I have time, looks like I need to buy a "doubled unit" for mine, no one enjoys listening to an iPod via a digital cassette :p

Cheers for that, going to get onto it as soon as I have time, looks like I need to buy a "doubled unit" for mine, no one enjoys listening to an iPod via a digital cassette :p

Not necessarily, you can get a single DIN unit and fit a pocket below it, as per factory fitment on most non 6-stack third gens. The screen size for iPod use may leave a bit to be desired.

I would highly suggest upgrading to a double din, it fits well and modernises the interior of the Verada, plus the OEM headunit are pretty outdated these days. Mine tended to skip a lot on CDs, every time I drove over a bump the song would stop and start.

Here's mine
http://i.imgur.com/FftuPL5l.jpg

I would highly suggest upgrading to a double din, it fits well and modernises the interior..

I agree, though I have a preference for the touch-screen type..

My TJ2 wagon:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f62/transparanoir/DSC_0666a.jpg

My TJ1 sedan:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f62/transparanoir/DSC_0830a.jpg

I agree, though I have a preference for the touch-screen type..

My TJ2 wagon:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f62/transparanoir/DSC_0666a.jpg

My TJ1 sedan:
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f62/transparanoir/DSC_0830a.jpg

Would of loved a touch screen honestly, however I just couldn't justify the extra cash for what I use it for.

Would of loved a touch screen honestly, however I just couldn't justify the extra cash for what I use it for.

Touchscreen units are becoming cheaper, Chinese-built units, such as Eonon, can be had for under $300 these days (though reliability can be hit-and-miss)
I got the touchscreen units because I use my iPod quite often, and single DIN unit screens didn't quite fit the bill for me in terms of direct-control and interface.

Touchscreen units are becoming cheaper, Chinese-built units, such as Eonon, can be had for under $300 these days (though reliability can be hit-and-miss)
I got the touchscreen units because I use my iPod quite often, and single DIN unit screens didn't quite fit the bill for me in terms of direct-control and interface.

Yeah I saw some for around that, however my Sony DoubleDin came to me randomly in JBHifi, it was $140 and an impulse buy, I planned on putting aside some extra cash for a state of the art Sony touch screen unit for around $5-600. However, I basically always have an iPod plugged in on shuffle or listening to metal, and that's about it.

The only annoying thing is for some reason the head unit doesn't like my iPhone 5s, or the lightning connecter in fact, hopefully there's a firmware update some day for that.

I had an MX-6 I rescued a few years back, has a DVD player and touch screen thing in it, really suave, but it doesn't play iPod, I'm not one for CD's, makes the car look messy if you have no where to properly store them, and thanks for the help again, looks like I know what I'll be doing all weekend :)

After 2-3hrs of pulling apart and sussing things out, found out the Head of the Unit hadn't been connected AND there was sand in the stacker -.-

...there was sand in the stacker -.-

Of course there would be, why wouldn't there be sand in the stacker... lol
I still vote new head unit.

I voted on a new one too, voted my ass off, but my father was bitching and whinging so I gave up and just put it back (mind you he isn't technology savvy, the problem was a simple ribbon out of place, and he broke the wooden finish in a corner...)

I voted on a new one too, voted my ass off, but my father was bitching and whinging so I gave up and just put it back (mind you he isn't technology savvy, the problem was a simple ribbon out of place, and he broke the wooden finish in a corner...)

Those damn console trim pieces can be insanely brittle after years of being hit with our sun, mine cracked as well when removing it, however it still sits in place fine.

Worse comes to work you can buy new pieces for nothing.

I voted on a new one too, voted my ass off, but my father was bitching and whinging so I gave up and just put it back (mind you he isn't technology savvy, the problem was a simple ribbon out of place, and he broke the wooden finish in a corner...)

Those damn console trim pieces can be insanely brittle after years of being hit with our sun, mine cracked as well when removing it, however it still sits in place fine.

Worse comes to work you can buy new pieces for nothing.

Yea it was insanely brittle, might just put a little sticker there and cover it up, it works like brand new now though!