This is kind of a continuation of the thread on this topic in the 3rd gen sub forum.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103435
(continued here because pictures of my verada KS might be confusing in the wrong sub forum.)

I am trying to crack this stubborn crankshaft bolt on my KS and now down to trying the starter motor bump method.

I was thinking I need a better breaker bar and looked for a short 3/4 one, but only can find 370 mm 1/2 inch breaker bars.
There is a 3/4 sliding T bar that will fit (maybe with some hose clamps to secure the head in place?).

There seem to be 2 doable positions for bracing my breaker bar against a car frame.
My thought is to go for the second option except the power steering piping is quite close to the breaker bar.
In the first option, the breaker bar just sits against the edge of the car frame.

Option 1:
http://i.imgur.com/EMjzQt7.jpg

Option 2:
http://i.imgur.com/X6EGDmv.jpg

I am all ears for opinions or other approaches.

When I used the starter motor method on my TP, I just braced the breaker bar against the ground (after figuring out which way the engine would turn). I figured it would have to either undo the nut or lift the whole car. A very brief tweak of the starter cracked it first time. It was a much longer bar than you are using though, at least 600mm.

Edit: Just read your previous post on 3rd gen forum and see you've already tried that. It must be tight if the whole car lifted. I hope they didn't use loctite.

Hi coldamus,

I've never done a timing belt before and so haven't had any reason so far to undo the crankshaft bolt.
My effort to get the verada back on the road has changed that.

I haven't actually tried bracing the breaker bar against the ground as I have come to the conclusion that its unsafe to do so.
Looking at the basic physics, I think there is a small chance that the chassis stands can be displaced by the car moving up and or backwards.

Have tried my cheap repco impact gun (no dice but great for undoing lug nuts!).
Hammered my hand impact power bar (up to 800NM) but is wouldn't budge.

So I have gone with option 2:
- strongest rail (don't know what its called - upper A arm?)
- provided the largest contact point with the breaker bar
- provided the shortest distance between crank bolt and brace point (more breaker bar strenght)

I did put a small sheet of neoprene rubber inbetween breaker bar and the rail as a precautionary against sideways movement (shoudn't need it!).

Bolt cracked loose on the second flick of the starter motor.

Now its on with undoing other items to get at the timing belt.
Autopro sells a bosh timing belt for about $75 and Repco wants $155 for gates one.

Going to add some pictures of the pieces as they come off.
These might help augment Buffys article on changing the timing belt.

The belt on the second gen V6 is dead easy to do, it uses a big spring to initially tension the belt, then you lock that spring in place.
So much easier than fiddling with setting up the hydraulic tensioner on a third gen.

Both Bosch and Gates are good belts, but check if the box it is in has a date stamp on it.

@MadMax - that's a good tip about the date stamp, didn't think of that.
Going to buy the belt Monday so will avoid if its already "old".

Everything looks good and clean with the timing covers off, no oil drips or water leaks.
As the car has done only 90K, it looks like its going to be just a belt change.

Update: did buy the Bosch belt ($73.10) but no manufacturing date to be seen on the carton box it came in.
No idea of the actual shelf life of properly stored belts (seen figures as low as 5 years and as high as 15 years).