Hi all
My TF Mangas battery light comes on sometimes. When the light is on I've tested at the battery terminals with a multimeter with the motor running and the alternator is pumping out more than 14 volts. Can't work it out. Any clues?

If it flickers on and off as you drive but the voltage seems okay with a multimeter, probably the voltage regulator brushes are worn.

Regulator is easily replaced DIY, about $120 genuine. However it depends on the age and wear of your alternator. If deep tracks have been cut by the old brushes the new regulator will wear quickly and will only be a temporary solution. In that case, you'll need to get your alternator overhauled or replaced.

Actually, on second thought, I'm not sure if early models like the TF had the same regulator setup.

Perhaps phone Mal at Mitsfix, he will point you in the right direction, and probably has regulators and full alternator assemblies on the shelf.

If it flickers on and off as you drive but the voltage seems okay with a multimeter, probably the voltage regulator brushes are worn.

Regulator is easily replaced DIY, about $120 genuine. However it depends on the age and wear of your alternator. If deep tracks have been cut by the old brushes the new regulator will wear quickly and will only be a temporary solution. In that case, you'll need to get your alternator overhauled or replaced.

It doesn't flicker, might only come on twice a week

Does it come on and stay on permanently, or go off? By flickering I don't mean like a disco, I mean it's not coming on and staying on permanently until you turn the car off.

A big jolt on the road can be enough to wobble the worn brushes on the regulator and cause the light to come on.

Does it come on and stay on permanently, or go off? By flickering I don't mean like a disco, I mean it's not coming on and staying on permanently until you turn the car off.

A big jolt on the road can be enough to wobble the worn brushes on the regulator and cause the light to come on.

It'll come on then go off even before stopping. What I can't understand is even when the light is on the alternator is putting out more than 14 volts. This has been happening for about 18 months.

bad diode maybe

even when the light is on the alternator is putting out more than 14 volts.

Actually, the alternator light being on says no output. You are reading the battery voltage, not alternator output.

If the light stayed on for any length of time, you would see that voltage go down slowly.

Actually, the alternator light being on says no output. You are reading the battery voltage, not alternator output.

If the light stayed on for any length of time, you would see that voltage go down slowly.

Thanks Max. When I read the battery voltage with the engine off I get around 12.5 volts. If I read it with the engine on, even if the battery light is showing I get over 14 volts.

Just keep using the car until the light stays on permanently. Which it will eventually if the brushes are worn down.
Then you know you have a problem. lol

Fix it now or fix it later. Your choice.
(Sounds to me like you want to leave it for later.)

Could it be a loose earth wire somewhere?

My TF Mangas battery light comes on sometimes. When the light is on I've tested at the battery terminals with a multimeter with the motor running and the alternator is pumping out more than 14 volts. Can't work it out. Any clues?

MORE than 14 volts? - I had that - the diode pack was stuffed, and VERY lucky to fix it with a cheap diode pack quickly, as the car computer(s), radio and just about anything 12Volt was getting a bit of over voltage (was hitting 15.5 at times) - diode pack - cheap - putting the smoke back in if you don't fix it - very hard

MORE than 14 volts? - I had that - the diode pack was stuffed, and VERY lucky to fix it with a cheap diode pack quickly, as the car computer(s), radio and just about anything 12Volt was getting a bit of over voltage (was hitting 15.5 at times) - diode pack - cheap - putting the smoke back in if you don't fix it - very hard

Thanks mate, can you tell me where the diode pack goes. Mechanical things I don't have a problem, but electrical I scratch my head. I'll be 60 next year and I grew up with cars with a carby and none of these ECU's or sensors, they drive me mad

Diode pack is internal to the alternator.
6 large diodes on 2 metal plates.
They can be checked with a multimeter, but you need to dismantle the alternator first.

A failed diode pack will often run current through the alternator when the engine is off, so check if the alternator is warming up all by itself, overnight to cool the car down and check in the early morning.

Excessive/poor voltage regulation can also be the voltage regulator.

14.4 volts is normal charge voltage on a cold engine. A flickering light is not.

I had this issue once on the magna TP.
I went to the wrecker and just got another alternator.
Didn't fix the issue!

Problem:
The belt was slipping occasionally in the pulley.
Belt was a toothed V belt with a section quite worn.
Occasionaly it would just loose traction at the alternator pulley (no output = light on).
I just happen to see it slip as I was looking at the alternator.

Thanks for the input fellas.

Actually, on second thought, I'm not sure if early models like the TF had the same regulator setup.

Perhaps phone Mal at Mitsfix, he will point you in the right direction, and probably has regulators and full alternator assemblies on the shelf.
On second thoughts you were correct. On the TF the alternator had to come out. A DIY fix not really. I specified a TF and if you haven't got a clue keep your comments to yourself. You have just cost me $150

On second thoughts you were correct. On the TF the alternator had to come out. A DIY fix not really. I specified a TF and if you haven't got a clue keep your comments to yourself. You have just cost me $150
No one cost you anything except yourself. A quick phone call to a professional would have had you sorted, nearly 2 months later you here bitchin. On second thoughts flyboy did mention ringing a professional for help.

I second Harry.0 opinion.

aussiecarl mentioned that his age is over 60 - so you would expect there to be some wisdom in terms of ascertaining the merit of the responses given.
The $150 bill is therefore a cheap lesson that came along with a fix to the problem.

Hope this kind of people issue doesn't deter others from giving input intended to be helpful (even if its wrong!).

The $150 bill is therefore a cheap lesson that came along with a fix to the problem.

Hope this kind of people issue doesn't deter others from giving input intended to be helpful (even if its wrong!).

The lesson is to sort it out as far as you can before asking questions on this forum. A lot of questions seem to come from people whose car develops a problem and then race off to their computer to consult this forum rather than lifting the bonnet and having a look. In this case, a quick look at the alternator would tell you if it has an external or internal regulator. (If you don't know how to tell, leave the whole job up to a sparky/mechanic.)

I try to help and sometimes get it wrong. Then somebody dumps on me from a great height - mind you, those same people didn't bother to try to help initially but come on instead to correct me. So what motivates them more - being helpful or . . . ?
Anyway, hasn't put me off too often! lol

Hello AussieCarl. Are you serious?

If you want a professional opinion, stump up the cash and actually TAKE your car to a professional to get it diagnosed. The symptoms you described could have been any manner of things.

As someone with a science degree including a fair amount of electrical theory, I have plenty enough clue despite your assumption to the contrary.

I never said it IS the voltage regulator. I said if it is flickering on and off it is probably the regulator. I even said that regardless, it may still require alternator overhaul due to wear on the armature. Did you miss that?

Lastly, I said to contact Mitsfix which you chose not to do. You then were still coming back to the thread and posting more symptoms AFTER I'd said a TF might be different from the majority of third gens without an external reg.

You chose to ignore that, buy a replacement part before properly diagnosing it, and failed to confirm what type of alternator you had AFTER I told you there were differences.

Last of all, you failed to provide your VIN or model to the part supplier because either a Mitsi genuine parts dealer or any auto electrician or even Repco would have looked up your VIN or model number and noticed it wasn't available separately for that model.

Seems your own stupidity and your inability to read my second post cost you $150.

Let's not start a flame war!

No need to look for VINs, consult catalogs, etc - just look at the make of alternator. Bosch has external regulator, others don't.

Lets just say that freedom of speech gives people the right of a polite and considerate reply.
Anything else just leads to nonsense.

Why the need to vent and accuse on this forum because the end result isn't to one's liking?
Why aggravate the issue by stating that an element of stupidity has taken place?

I don't get it!