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View Full Version : TJ Ralliart still shuddering



nasawalker04
02-03-2015, 08:47 PM
Hey guys

Sorry to repeat myself lol

My car still seems to shudder at around 100 105kph on certain surfaces and corners not all the time just sometimes.

Had the car wheel aligned twice and seemed fine for a time but every now and then it will shudder then when i disengage the cruise or stop accelerating . Gonna get my mechanic to check it out, engine mounts and ball joints etc. Just wondering what might be causing it

Sorry to flog a dead horse just that its kinda annoying no pun intended.

Thanks

ammerty
03-03-2015, 06:05 AM
Driveshafts or balljoints will be likely be your culprit.

erad
03-03-2015, 06:10 AM
How badly worn are your tyres? If they are worn unevenly ie a shoulder is worn thin, this will cause shimmies on a smooth surface. Also worn tie rod joints.

MadMax
03-03-2015, 07:32 AM
Tell the mechanic the only effective way to check the ball joints is to uncouple them and do a starting torque test on them. He will know what that means.

The old method of using a lever and looking for play doesn't work.

As above, could be tyres, wheel bearings, tie rods, tie rod ends.
Unfortunately on a high km front wheel drive its common to get some play in all the front steering and suspension components that can interact under certain conditions to give a shimmy. No problems at all until you hit the right combination of road surface, camber and speed and there it is. Wobblesville!

silverfern.kiwi
03-03-2015, 04:11 PM
mate i had same problem torque converter

nasawalker04
05-03-2015, 12:01 PM
It's basically doing it all the time now over 80 or round a corner. Set cruise at at 100 or accelerate it will shudder . Lift off the throttle or disengage cruise and it will stop. Me think drive shafts or cv joints are the culprit going from logical deduction. Should I stop driving altogether or just don't go over 80. Also do drive shafts and cv joints come as one unit or do you have buy separately. Thanks.

nasawalker04
05-03-2015, 12:14 PM
It's basically doing it all the time now over 80 or round a corner. Set cruise at at 100 or accelerate it will shudder . Lift off the throttle or disengage cruise and it will stop. Me think drive shafts or cv joints are the culprit going from logical deduction. Should I stop driving altogether or just don't go over 80. Also do drive shafts and cv joints come as one unit or do you have buy separately. Thanks.

peaandham
05-03-2015, 12:22 PM
I was having the same issue but I have just replaced my control arms, bushes ETC, the driveline is almost all new.

I couldn't understand what the problem was, took it to a friend for a balance and it turns out I had a buckled mag wheel.

I thought I may have had the car in for a tyre change while the wheel was buckled and we didnt pick up on it then, so maybe get someone to check them out and actually look for minor buckling, just a thought.

Edit: Just read your last post, my shuddering was worse when I was accelerating, back of accelerating and it was still there but not as bad, im not sure how that works considering it was a mag but it was happening.

Also you can still get CV's seperatly BUT it is in my opinion quicker to replace the whole drive shaft because that comes with the CV, the CV is grease, booted up and ready to go. The drivers side driveshaft locks into another shaft where as the passenger side goes straight into the gear box. From memory I paid $140 for a driveshaft and replacing that was quicker than removing the CV and refitting a new one.

MadMax
05-03-2015, 12:34 PM
Should I stop driving altogether or just don't go over 80.

Your choice, but you should not put it off too long, as the vibes will get lower in the speed range and having a drive shaft disintegrate on the road is no fun.

nasawalker04
05-03-2015, 01:07 PM
Booked in for tuesday as long weekend. Any particular brand nolathane etc and should I just replace them anyway if not the culprit as unlikely me thinks.

peaandham
05-03-2015, 06:05 PM
If you need to replace bushing many mechanics with just use Nolathane standard, I prefer genuine rubber, its not as harsh as Nolathane bushing but harder to find since many parts through Mitsubishi are becoming obsolete. There is also "SuperPro" they are a good mix between rubber and nolathane.

Some mechanics won't fit stuff you supply so best ask them first.

nasawalker04
05-03-2015, 07:58 PM
Car is in dry dock until its fixed not risking driving it like that. It was heaps worse coming home tonight so borrowed the old mans car, a 96 camry which while reliable isn't exactly a performance machine lol what camry is. My mechanic will fit anything i give him so whats a reasonable price for shafts?

Rang Bursons and quoted 173 each which seems high since i can get a pair off ebay brand new for 195 though ebay is a hit and miss place as you could all agree.

peaandham
06-03-2015, 09:29 AM
Ring around some other places.

MadMax
06-03-2015, 09:52 AM
ebay is a hit and miss place as you could all agree.

Linky-link? Wouldn't mind a spare pair myself at that price.
If you have ABS make sure you get the ones with the toothed rings on the end.

I've never had a problem wih ebay, but check warranty and delivery time if you go this way.
Ebay is so much on the side of the buyer that no one dares sell shoddy stuff!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-pair-Mitsubishi-Magna-TE-TF-TH-TJ-TK-TL-V6-CV-Joint-Drive-Shafts-4-96-10-04-/290855489405?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&fits=Model%3AMagna&hash=item43b8568f7d#shpCntId


$140 + postage, supposedly new.
They have gotten cheaper over the years, no point rekitting a pair of shafts at that price!

Just bought a pair from the above link, will fit either of my TJ or TL 4 speed autos. Just waiting to get postage costs. A rough estimate is about $50.

(Don't need them right now, but I will check quality and store them away for the day one of the Magnas disintegrates its CV boots.)

MadMax
06-03-2015, 11:05 AM
Seller got back to me quick smart, $30 for postage, so $170 for a pair of shafts!

Emailed him to say they were for a TJ or TL V6 with 4 speed auto and ABS, hope he sends the right ones.

nasawalker04
07-03-2015, 11:54 PM
Are the vrx and sports model cv and drive shafts different from the exec. Im assuming the vrx and sports are different due to higher output or are the ralliart ones unique to the car?

MadMax
10-03-2015, 08:26 AM
The only important factor is which gearbox you have, the spline count differs, but I can't quote which gearboxes take what number of splined shafts.
Somebody, anybody?

My new shafts arrived, they are in fact new - good for the price.
I was hoping to get them with the newer boots on them (thin, shiny) but these have the originals (thicker, dull black). So obviously new but old stock.

Courier service from Sydney to Adelaide had good tracking for once. I like it when I can predict to within 1 hour when there will be a knock on the door. lol

peaandham
10-03-2015, 09:25 AM
I like it when I can predict to within 1 hour when there will be a knock on the door

Slow days at the office?

MadMax
10-03-2015, 09:51 AM
Slow days at the office?

What is this "office" you speak of?

flyboy
10-03-2015, 01:13 PM
There's barely a single thread go by where Max doesn't feel the need to comment.

How would he have any spare time to spend in an office?

steve_bunkle
10-03-2015, 01:27 PM
The office is his Magna garage - hey Max?

Neo
10-03-2015, 02:18 PM
The only important factor is which gearbox you have, the spline count differs, but I can't quote which gearboxes take what number of splined shafts.

I can't say I've ever heard of this spline count difference being a thing.

The dummy/half shaft is different between auto/manual & 3.0/3.5. Regarding the outer joints however; only the ABS ring is different as far as I'm aware.

MadMax
10-03-2015, 02:52 PM
There's barely a single thread go by where Max doesn't feel the need to comment.

OK. I will go back to lurking. Carry on without me.


The office is his Magna garage - hey Max?

Whatever.

steve_bunkle
10-03-2015, 03:16 PM
Nothing wrong with spending time in the garage. I wish mine wasn't full of junk.

Keep up the comments and advice Max. Your input is much appreciated.

ammerty
10-03-2015, 03:19 PM
I can't say I've ever heard of this spline count difference being a thing.

The dummy/half shaft is different between auto/manual & 3.0/3.5. Regarding the outer joints however; only the ABS ring is different as far as I'm aware.

5-speed auto intermediate shaft has larger spline/more teeth than 4-speed auto counterpart; passenger side shaft also differs between 4 and 5 speed auto versions.

nasawalker04
12-03-2015, 04:42 AM
So as expected need two new driveshafts apparently the cv boot was cracked and basically stuffed as well as two wheel bearings need replacing oh well at least no permanent damage.

Oh happy days more money into car. Guess that car ownership happens to everyone.

Neo
12-03-2015, 07:42 AM
So as expected need two new driveshafts apparently the cv boot was cracked and basically stuffed as well as two wheel bearings need replacing oh well at least no permanent damage.

Oh happy days more money into car. Guess that car ownership happens to everyone.

Were the CV joints making noises when turning? This would normally be a hint they were on the way out, not this shuddering issue that you were experiencing.

I would have thought that the shuddering issue would have been the ball joints/wheel bearings. Or completely stuffed shockers.

peaandham
12-03-2015, 10:31 AM
Keep up the comments and advice Max. Your input is much appreciated.

Yes, don't get me wrong I was making a joke that he has the time to track and wait for the courier.

If Max has helped one person thats better than not, he has helped me various times in the past.

Bummer about the driveshafts and wheel bearings needing to be replaced, that wont be a cheap job, unless you are doing it yourself but I believe the wheel bearings are pressed into the hubs??

nasawalker04
14-03-2015, 05:59 AM
Probably about 1k all up but gotta be done. Touch wood nothing alse goes wrong but being a 13 year old car with original parts these things are gonna happen. Maybe ill get something newer.

Any thoughts?

Im partial to the new type r civic.

ammerty
14-03-2015, 06:28 AM
Probably about 1k all up but gotta be done..

It cost me $700 for both shafts installed, I've not done the front wheel bearings on mine though.


Maybe ill get something newer.

Any thoughts?

Im partial to the new type r civic.

I'm partial to the Volvo S60 (prior to 2010)

nasawalker04
18-03-2015, 08:03 AM
Well cars fixed now 1100 for both driveshafts and cv joints plus lhf and lhr wheel bearings and hubs. Apparently one of the drive shafts had seized into the hub and was basically stuffed. Got my new, well better then my old ones, paras in much clearer. Just needs a wheel alignment and should be a happy camper.

nasawalker04
18-03-2015, 10:04 AM
Car still a little vibraty when overtaking or accelerating but i assume thats due to the wheels being out of alignment and it is definitely out of allignment. Getting done friday so hopefully all will be well.

Also got the brakes flushed but still not as firm as i would like, maybe i just am very picky is this where braided brake lines come in handy?