Hi all,

I have just recently purchased a 1993 TR V6 Magna for the princely sum of $300 ( with a full tank of gas)
The car is running but has been poorly maintained.
I have brought a new timing set, water pump, spark pugs/leads, ect ect...
I have removed the rocker covers to replace the valve guide seals,
to find that the top end looks to have been running very dry, not much oil to be seen and lots of black crud on everything, could the filter be that blocked or oil pump failure perhaps?



http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0856.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0856.jpg.html)

Not sure if I should try to clean all that off as it will end up in the sump, all though I have a gasket set so if I did clean it up I could take the sump off and clean that out to?
I have been trying to get a new/better lower timing cover as the original has been rubbing on the balancer and is worst for wear, are they still available? have not had much luck with online inquiries with dealers so far no replies.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0855.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0855.jpg.html)

And now for the mystery part that fell on the ground as I lifted the inlet manifold off, only found one , but thinking there maybe two or more, soft rubbery/plastic part smells of petrol?

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0861.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0861.jpg.html)

Any way working on the Magna has been easier than I first thought although in saying that, it is always easier to pull stuff apart than to get it together again!

Any advice on the above would be appreciated.
Cheers spanner

you could undo the rockers and clean them away from the head

leave the cams in place

these magnas are a DIY car

I would fit a new oil filter and use a 40 weight oil for starters

mystery part plastic and petrol smell ..I dont recognise it ..if it was metal i would say a valve collet

1993 TR V6 Magna timing belt cover --a wrecker

usuall serviceing parts etc -from busons repco supercheap

If that bit of plastic is from inside the plenum it's a piece of the Variable Intake Control shaft guide.

see this post/topic : http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104740&p=1618092&viewfull=1#post1618092

Thanks for the speedy replies guys.

I have an air compressor and the spring comp to do the valve seal job with the head on.

So I will be removing the rockers and will clean those separately.

magna buff, is there any reason why i should not remove the cam? while I am at it.

I will climb underneath and see how hard it is to remove the sump,

if it is not to difficult I will clean things up as best as I can, let it drain

into the sump, remove sump and clean it out.

Thanks for the link ts370000 that looks tricky. I thought it might be some sort of bushing.

I will investigate further.

So can I take it that the Mitsubishi dealers no longer have spares for these older car,

other than perhaps general service parts?

The carbon under the rocker covers is typical of a poorly maintained engine with poor quality oil. And possibly some overheating.
You will find the inside of the rocker covers looking the same too, it is important these get a good clean, especially on the breather pipes. Oven cleaner, soak, wire probe, hose out.

Your plastic cam cover looks worse than the one I took off mine, definitely needs replacing, if you can find one. Wreckers possibly, but take tools with you to remove the crank pulley and don't expect to find a pristine one.

The part that fits around the crank is usually a full circle, maybe the mystery bits are off there?
Check crank shaft end play, the only reason the cover gets chewed up is because the crank develops end play excessively and the pulley chews up the cover. If you find more than 1 mm of play, it's an engine out/new crank bearings job though.

Removing the cam requires removing the cam belt, if you are prepared to set that up again, no reason why you can't take the cams out. If you are leaving the heads on, I'd remove rocker gear and cams, then scrub that carbon off and flush it into the sump with petrol, then drain.
A new filter and oil, run it for a couple of hundred km, then change oil and filter if you can't get the sump off easily. Then use a semi synthetic oil and change it often to pick up the rest of the carbon buildup in the engine.

Yes, it is annoyingly tricky but entirely doable. I found a bit of the stiff rocker cover breather hose better than the auto trans hose to replace the bits of bush. A softer hose is distorted by the metal clip..

From memory : be careful with the screwheads of the little bolts holding the butterfly valves onto the shaft. Very soft and the star slots strip easy. Important to use a well fitting phillips head with even steady force. If one strips, carefully cut a straight slot with a thin saw so you can use a flat head driver and then replace it with a good one. I have a number of plenums so I used one to figure out how and assembled with bits from a couple.

take note of how to undo and refit the servo motor assembly. It may be damaged. A second plenum from the wreckers is a good idea.

Hi Guys,
Yes the rocker covers are coated as well.

I have a new PCV here and will clean all pipes and replace the hoses.

I will venture outside in a minute and see if I can check for end float of the crank,
with a bit of manipulation.

The timing belt is coming off so I will remove the cams for a good clean.

Thought the cover damage might be from a failed balancer at some previous time.
But the end float would do the same as you say.

Can the crank bearing be replaced in situ as on some other motors?

I will check out the Variable Intake Control, as I can see the importance of having it running correctly.

Thanks for the tips takes a lot of the guess work out of it for me, appreciated!!!

I just removed the runners from the plenum the valves half open?
should they not be closed? http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0862.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0862.jpg.html)

The mystery part is one of the bushes look as if a few may be missing,
probably were eaten by the engine at some time. The shaft is quite loose.http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0863.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0863.jpg.html)

They need to be closed when properly fitting the servo. Yes, that plastic crap thing is the heart of the problem. I wonder how many cars have been given up on because of such a stupid design. Hopefully the metal clip is still there.

Friend had a similar problem on his Charade - oil hadn't been changed forever.
Found the oil strainer in the sump was almost completely clogged, with only a tiny hole where the oil was being sucked through.
Ended up stripping the fibre gears on the oil pump drive.
I'd be pulling the sump and giving it all a good clean.
If the maintenance has been that poor, I'd have a good look for corrosion in the cooling system as well. Can't imagine they'd have run coolant.

Well there does not seem to be excessive end play in the crank, so that is something!

The sump looks like it will be difficult to remove, I would have to take the starter off,
the front engine mount, the rear engine mount, possibly the exhaust? Would not be happy
washing all that crud into the sump without being able to remove and clean it out.
Will check the oil strainer as well.

I took the Variable Intake Control servo off and the shaft rotated to full open, the gear and
worm look fine, is it just a matter of repairing the bushings and reinstalling the servo
with the throttles closed or is there going to be a problem with the servo itself?

No sign of any metal clip, was it there to hold the bushes in?

The main things I can remember is that it is important to have the valves closed when fitting the servo unit and then fitting it pointing up and then turning clockwise into position determined by the mounting bolts. Try a number of times till you're confident. There are four little bumps on the plenum and one on the edge of the unit. The unit should align with the second bump.

I never found any readings to make to test the unit. It's a worm gear motor and a position sensor that communicates with the ecu.

This is a description of the VIC :
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104298&p=1617233&viewfull=1#post1617233

You need to make sure there is no seepage of contaminants from the plenum into the servo. There's a little o-ring for this and the plastic bit the shaft goes into is corroded at the plenum inner but servicable at the servo side on all I've inspected.

The butterfly valves are not symmetrical so use the photo to see where the 6g7 stamp is. I found it best to fit them and tighten when closed as there is play.

edit : do this before tightening the butterfly valve mounting screws :After assembly of the middle plenum section you can use a hex driver to adjust sideways play of the shaft. The hex screw for that is under a white blob of paint on the outside of the unit over the shaft.

Before assembling the plenum sections use a sheet of wet/dry on a pice of glass to flatten mating surfaces if needed. Ordinary high temp rtv seems good for gasket.

If I can remember anything else I'll add it.

If you find any readings that can be made to determine the serviceability of the units components please post. Having re-read my 'instructions I find them a bit clumsy. I'll try to revise them later.

PS. While having the plenum and rocker covers off as well as the timing belt this is a very good time to change the cam seals, look at the water pump, and wash that whole side of the engine, and even do the rear plugs. NGK BP6ES-11

\edit add. Just remembered a couple of finer points. One thing about the shaft buffeting about when the end bush is cactus (apart from the danger of the bits, particularly the spring steel clip, dropping into the intake and jamming a valve or suchlike) is it may jam and the worm gear stripping. If the VIC is not installed correctly there is a stop lug that can break, if yours is complete then good. I think it's important to center the butterfly valves after fitting the shaft. So, after minimising sideways play I centered each valve with equal clearance all around and when setting the fine position of the VIC assembly I left a gap , ie not 100% closed, just backed a tiny bit off.

One of the plenums I dismantled had the VIC installed incorrectly (and as a result its function busted) people working on the car had made some extreme settings on the throttle body butterfly valve (which had dug a groove in the Throttle Body) and air valve settings. (Possibly why I got it for $200 at 200,000 k's.)

Thanks for taking the time ts370000,

I am thinking because the bushings are so loose
the shaft gear has been disengaged from the worm maybe whilst hitting a pot hole
on the road or something and has allowed the throttles to get out of sync, with the servo.

I take it this unit operates constantly from low throttle openings, or is it just when the motor
is cold?

No worries, I'll help where I can. If not replying it's because I'm doing something else.

From the above link.

Variable Intake Control Servo (VIC)

which contains a

Intake Control Valve Position Sensor

"The VIC servo consists of a DC motor, flat gear,
worm gear and worm wheel. When the motor revolves
according to the signal from the engine control unit,
the intake control valve opens and closes depending
on the direction of rotation of the motor.

The ECU controls the DC motor drive IC in the unit
and opens and closes the variable intake control valve."

"The intake control valve position sensor is built into
the variable intake control servo and inputs valve
position sensor to the engine control unit.
The ECU performs the valve opening and closing
control by using this signal. The ECU drives the intake
control valve once to a fully closed position (position
where it hits the stopper), when the ignition switch is
turned ON to perform the initial setting.

"Variable Intake Control System Operation

When the engine is operating at low speed, the induction control valve is closed, thus air is entering the engine via the long track. As a result intake efficiency is improved and low speed torque is increased due to the inertia effect.

At high speed the valve is fully open and air enters via the short track. In this condition intake resistance is decreased and air speed increased with a resultant increase in output at high engine speed.

At medium engine speed the valve is partially open, this allows air to enter via both tracks. This reduces intake resistance but still utilizes the inertia effect, thus assuring a higher intake efficiency and larger torque at medium engine speed."

.
magna buff, is there any reason why i should not remove the cam? while I am at it.


good question

because I dont like working on these V6 motors

I would only disturb the cams - while in the engine - if there was a problem
when you are doing the timing belt ,waterpump and the cam seals..

you use a V6 pulley holding tool ..so the cam seals can be replaced easily

cams and rockers stay bolted when taking the head off as a unit for referb

# for genuine parts and service ..it costs heaps... and you only paid $300 .. the current value of the car could be around $1500 with reg and safety

# no one has done a write up on how to remove a second gen V6 sump..

. cant find a sump gasket for sale
might not even use a gasket ..a sealant

Got the rocker gear off and cams out yesterday soaked them overnight in kenco degreaser looking much better,
ran a gun cleaning wire brush through the bolt holes as they were badly caked with crud, I am thinking of
removing the expansion plugs at the ends of the rocker shafts to do the job properly.

Climbed underneath an removed the starter and the two transmission support brackets can now see all the
sump bolts, Just need to crack the 4 exhaust bolts, 2 front and 2 rear and the exhaust should drop down
enough I hope to allow the sump to come out. Not that difficult to do so far.

I think I will need to replace the hydraulic valve lifters, so will be up for some dollars
there. The hardening is gone on the ends.

Well I cleaned up one of the heads while it was still attached to the engine, and then
decided I might just as well take them off and check the valves proper.

Do I need new head bolts for the reassembly?
I think I read that they are torque to yield i.e. use once only
sort.

spanner ....keep this up and the guys here will help you rebuild the whole power train

yes it is always recommended that you fit new bolts with heads and gaskets

did you like the hex drive design
bursons or repco
ebay $46 6G72 engine

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Magna-Pajero-Triton-Challenger-3000GT-V6-Head-Bolt-Set-6G72-6G74-/291398451912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item43d8b382c8

Got the rocker gear off and cams out yesterday soaked them overnight in kenco degreaser looking much better,
ran a gun cleaning wire brush through the bolt holes as they were badly caked with crud, I am thinking of
removing the expansion plugs at the ends of the rocker shafts to do the job properly.

Climbed underneath an removed the starter and the two transmission support brackets can now see all the
sump bolts, Just need to crack the 4 exhaust bolts, 2 front and 2 rear and the exhaust should drop down
enough I hope to allow the sump to come out. Not that difficult to do so far.

I use paint stripper to clean engine parts, they come up like new, not a good smell though.

So its new bolts then.


did you like the hex drive design
I had to dig the gunk out of the hex with a screwdriver
first, undone them corner to corner, opposite to toque up pattern, and bit by bit.
They were very tight and took a bit to crack.


spanner ....keep this up and the guys here will help you rebuild the whole power train

Dont give me ideas like that:confused:... not confident with the trans at all, I have a filter kit
and hope to get away with that and an oil change...thinking of removing the pistons to check the
rings though now I have come this far...

Been soaking the engine parts in kenco the rocker covers have been in it for a week
trying to get the gunk out from the two layers is challenging.

I have never seen so may brackets on a motor I see where the bitsi name comes from :)

yes the brackets are solid..probably made from recycled trucks

ring set is about $150 if 6G74 V6 3.5

trick with the auto is the alloy is soft
be very carefull if the pan gasket gets stuck to the box and you have to get the gasket material off

use mitsubishi brand auto oil

:cry:Just pulled a few of the valves out of the head, lots of play

one side or both

what fix can the head shop near you suggest

new heads are very expensive

Just the exhaust, would require new guides and the valve seats
recut, not going to bother, no time for that.

Going to reface the exhaust valves, as they are a mess, inlets are ok,
and lap them all in.

Hope to get the sump off this weekend.

you know your stuff on engines and I cant see the movement myself

what you are doing will give you time to get the car up and running for a while

will buying new exhaust valves help in any way ?

on these magna heads

if you go to the re ring stage and increase compression

that movement in the guides and the valve stem seals harden quickly on these

oil will drop into the cylinders

Well have been thinking about it for a week now...
In that time I checked the valve guide play, the middle cylinder`s
exhaust look the worst with around 0.5mm wobble measured with the
valve extended around 20mm above the deck height.
The inlets are around 0.25 wobble.
I refaced the exhaust valves, not much to clean up.
The valves lapped in quite quickly.
I have noticed however that 3 of the inlet seats look to have
corrosion/crack all in the same areahttp://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0874.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0874.jpg.html)
I think the valves are a bit younger than the rest of the motor.
The dents in the top of the pistons are a give away.

the top of the motor looked so unloved after you took the covers off

what to do now

if you lapped the valves
re fit the springs then pour petrol into the 3 inlet ports with the suspect lines

if it doesnt leak continue to refit the heads

if those three leak . its a valve re/seat /guide referb head .what ever

"what to do now"

I am err-ing towards put it back together as is.

Not sure if it is worth checking pistons and rings now?

Do those heads all have a sharp edge around the combustion chamber,
think I might knock it off a bit?

The car will not be doing lots of km anyway.

sharp edges around the heads combustion chambers ?

I would like to see a picture before suggesting anything ....the heads can get soft
for now I would not remove any material in that area let the gaskets do the work .

the $300 magna starting to look like a money pit ..it should have other heads

put the motor back togeather ..

check for ring leakage ......you may know how to do that already
same .....check all valves are sealing
if the tests pass

go for it

Yes the edge around the combustion chamber is quite sharphttp://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0868.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0868.jpg.html)

Going outside to give the heads a final clean before reassembly.

head looks ok around the valves and chambers

no corrosion either ..thats good

on restart the motor might smoke a little and tappet noise a bit

then should settle down nicely

Interesting thread for the curious minded rookies amongst AMC members.

Could you post a picture of the piston tops, showing the damage from a "probable" timing belt failure.
Are the exhaust valves supposed to look "brittle" like that or is that just carbon build up?

Hi AQUAR, I will try and get a pic up over the weekend.

The exhaust valves run the hottest therefore any oil gets burnt on them the hardest,
hardest to remove as well.

All 6 pistons have the same marks, not sure why the valve cut outs are not in line with the valves?
Pistons must have been designed for different motor perhaps.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0878.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0878.jpg.html)

Found some rust on the water manifold under the hoses.
A small hole and pitting.

Have the end soaking in some rust remover and it is cleaning up good.http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0880.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0880.jpg.html)

thanks for the piston pictures .they should be stock and originals

rust is normal probably leaking at the clamps and old coolant

as you said .... the engine wasnt loved

My thank's also for the piston picture.

To remove the rust you could dip the end in white vinegar, it will react with the rust and the product (iron acetate) precipitates out into the solution (react's with zinc too!).
Then let it flash rust again followed by a dip in phosphoric acid (probably the rust remover you are using!).
The phosphoric acid also reacts with the rust but does not precipitate out into the solution, instead it leaves a thin and even protective coating of iron phospate.
Its not a very strong coating but it still gives a bit of extra anti rust protection.

A question for the guru`s,

The manual say`s

"Install valve springs with the enamel identification marks facing the rocker arms."

As there is no marks left on mine, what difference does it make?

If you look at the valve springs carefully, you will see both ends are not the same. One end has the coils wound closer - this end goes down.

you started this in march
almost ready to fire up again in may

not a bad effort for your first magna

#
soak the lifters in oil and try to bleed the air out or they will be noisy on start up

#
the enamel came off the springs because you insisted on cleaning the suckers :D

#what ....you actually read the repair manual ?

Thanks for the replies,

Yes I have noticed one end of the spring is wound tighter at on end...
so I have to turn 7 of the springs over... but it does not explain...
"Install valve springs with the enamel identification marks facing the rocker arms."

Reading the manual, is always a great cause of confusion LOL.

"Install valve springs with the enamel identification marks facing the rocker arms."



New springs are marked with a dab of paint to show which end goes up.
That paint probably ended up in the sump or oil filter a long time ago though. lol

#what ....you actually read the repair manual ?

What, you don't? lol

Slacked off last weekend and got nothing done at all,
was cold and wet as well.

Anyway got the springs up the right way now!
Bleed the lifters ok I think.
Bolted the rocker gear back on.

Found the cam seal on the front head a bit strange,
I could push it in with my fingers and if I pushed
to far it would fall out the other side.
I am a bit worried being loose that it may blow out once running?

Found one of the rocker covers breather outlet still blocked,
it is ridiculously small to start with, should be 1/2 or more IMO.
Would perhaps leak less oil if the breathers were larger and
less likely to become blocked.

Worried about that seal, otherwise I am ready to put the
heads back on.

Found the cam seal on the front head a bit strange,
I could push it in with my fingers and if I pushed
to far it would fall out the other side.
I am a bit worried being loose that it may blow out once running?

Found one of the rocker covers breather outlet still blocked,
it is ridiculously small to start with, should be 1/2 or more IMO.
Would perhaps leak less oil if the breathers were larger and
less likely to become blocked.



Plenty of glue type materials designed to to stop oil seals from moving about!

Piece of wire, run it through that breather, soak with kero/WD40 etc to soften the carbon, use wire, repeat until clear.
There will be a lot of carbon in the space between the two layers of the rocker cover too. Try some oven cleaner & let soak.

Broke one of the exhaust studs off, sort of slowed me down a bit, luckly
it is probably one of the easiest to get at on the front head.
Waiting for the easy outs to arrive.

hope it works for you

on these mitzi broken studs
its very easy for the drill to skip off centre ..even with the smallest drill size

the zorst bolts really harden with heat

and this engine has overheated

Got the hole in ok but the cheap Chinese screw extractor
is to soft to bite!

other options possible


#fix a thread http://www.derek.com.au/fixathread.html

# helecoils sets at bunnings

are you confident to keep drilling and fit a hexi coil and new stud

or there are a few mobile mechanics who can do this

#welder--hire a mig
mig weld a steel shank in the hole
and then a nut on that shank as close to the head as possible

Success ! Brought a new extractor which came with a left hand drill, did not need to use the extractor as the drill grabbed in the hole that I had already drilled and the broken stud came
straight out:woot:
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0906.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0906.jpg.html)



Made a little jig to aide with drilling the hole on the centre of the stud as it kept running off to the side.
The bush protrudes about 1mm and locates in the top of the hole, the stud had broken off under the surface. [IMG]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0904.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0904.jpg.html)

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0903.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0903.jpg.html)

Do not waste your money on the extractors on the right.http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0907.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0907.jpg.html):hmm::hmm::hmm:

job well done

removing broken studs is scary

sleep in on saturday morning .. but have the engine running by Saturday night:coffee:

Now there is no need to rush LOL

Thanks!

lets hear some progress :iough:

your topic almost hit the bottom of the page

a few more posts and it could have been lost forever

Well magna buff progress gets made periodically ie when I fell like it LOL.

On re reading the manual again I have come to the conclusion that the
Intake Control Valve Position Sensor should be set in the open
position not closed.....

"The ECU performs the valve opening and closing control by using this signal. The ECU drives the intake control valve once to a fully closed position (position where it hits the stopper), when the ignition switch is turned ON to perform the initial setting."

So I have set it in the open position which is how I found it.

Are we in agreement on that?

Took this pic tonight.

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/IMGP0912.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/IMGP0912.jpg.html)

I was wondering if any of you fine gentlemen would know where this comes from
I think it was something to do with one of the wiring plugs, but for the life of me I
can not find which one it came from.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/IMGP0913.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/IMGP0913.jpg.html)

Cheers spanner

The big metal object at the right is a 50c coin. Legal tender in Australia and its territories. (jk. Feeble one)

The plastic object on the left looks like a retaining or waterproofing cover for an electrical plug, hinged at the bottom but it has snapped off. Can't place it on the engine though.
Don't throw it away. My experience is that 5 minutes after you do, you realise what it is for.

idle control valve
keep it simple
it you found something that way ... and the engine was running...... leave it that way


yep seen the brown thing in the engine bay also
same answer as Mad MaX

50 cents in 2011 was worth 50 cents ..now prob 5 cents

The old round 50c pieces are worth something like $10 now days
in silver value, no wonder they took them off the market. So
keep your eyes peeled when you are looking under the seats.

Thanks for the help guys.

I wonder. The first I took apart I had no idea the spring was there so a bit rattled when the thing went zip when the lug stopped holding the valve axel in position. The second one I took care with and found it had been put together wrong and the lug had gotten broken which was possibly why I got the wreck so cheap as I suspect the guy couldn't fix it to run propoerly. (which was probably good for me because by the time he gave up he'd replaced so many bits on the engine in order to make it run) That one I rebuilt and set it to clse. I recently rebuilt another which I took greater care with and drew some diagrams to help me rebuild and again set to close. I'd like this settled finally. Perhaps when the engine is turned off the valves are in the open position and then when started the position sensor notices this and its moved to close meaning that when the vic is rebuilt in any way and the car is started first time it needs to be closed. ???

"The ECU drives the intake control valve once to a fully closed position (position where it hits the stopper), when the ignition switch is turned ON to perform the initial setting."

I am taking this as meaning it must be open to start with so it can drive the valve to the closed position.
They could have made it a bit clearer but that is how I am reading it for now.

hmmm... I just had a look in through the TB valve on a fourth one I've not touched and it's closed. I'd like to be able to say definitely one way or the other how it should be.

Once having set the spring, I put the valve actuator in the 12 - 6 oclock position [with the spring having naturally moved the valves to open] and then turn the actuator clockwise to where the knobs on its body align with the knob on the plenum body and tighten. This is now in the closed position.

There seems to be uncertainty about the TB zero setting. Maybe I can add some more uncertainty!!
It is possible that the engine control computer senses the engine state "engine not running and ready to initialise", and the computer drives the TB motor to open the flap by very small amount. It then reverses the motor direction until it detects "no motion" and then registers this position as 'TB flap closed'. The motor is most likely a stepper motor and thus the flap cab be opened in controlled amounts by counting the number of steps the motor makes.
By doing both the opening and closing sequence, the computer can say the flap is working and to know where the flap position is.
Is this of any help?

FYI for CD and DVD players, there is a 'HOME' position for the sled which carries the laser. To read a cd/dvd header, the system goes through the 'home setting position' as the very first thing it does. Then it 'finds focus' and then reads the header.

hope this helps.

As you say ts370000 you can see the Variable Intake Control Valve through the throttle valve when the intake
is removed from the throttle body, so one would think it might be possible to observe what happens to the when the ignition is turned
on.
I am thinking it should rotate to the closed position, from its open state.
But I do not know if this is correct.

rumpfy, I think we are talking about something else here:)

Well, obviously one would like a definite answer on this one. If you let the spring move the valves to open and then fit the actuator to hold it there and that is wrong the worm gear may then force one of the lugs and tear/wear the gear and basically not function as it should. This is the damaged condition I found the second plenum I dissasembled in. The first one I rebuilt has been in the car since and I don't think has given any problems. I think I can hear it activating which is the same sound as on another car I have. In order to actiually see it in operation given it opens at low/medium revs would mean (I think) hard to see through the TB valve(?). I've got another rebuilt one ready to go into a project that I've set to closed.
I did ask a mechanic who says he worked for mits and he said he would hold the valves closed when fitting the actuator.
To me there is still too much fuzziness aboout it all and a clear description of it all by someone who really knows is needed.

Yes a definite answer would be good.
In regards to looking through the TB, I was thinking when the ignition
is switched on ( motor not running ) and TB opened, it should be possible to see the VI valve
set itself from the open position to the closed position, if i am understanding
what it says in the manual correctly?. May have to disconnect the throttle position sensor perhaps.

wow thats a lot of input

have we got this throttle body Intake Control Valve Position Sensor valve thingy sorted

why are V6s so complicated

I am trying to get my head around the instructions

repair manual is confusing :yeahthat:


Note
if this had been a four cyl magna with the same problems
I could have driven to Perth and back in it by nowlol

Absent any confirmation one way or the other it seems to me logical that it is possible to figure this out.

It is possible to fit the actuator to the plenum both with the valves open and closed.

When the axel is fitted and the coil spring is hooked up it holds the valves open.(?)

So, either the actuator assembly is fitted straight on at 9 - 3 oclock and bolted on and works from there with the valves open
or
it is fitted on at 12 - 6 position and turned clockwise to where the bolt holes are right and bolted on now with the valves closed.

That seems to me the two options ?

Well I am back on the job... finally.

Lucky I can walk to work and the supermarket, but life is starting to get a bit
boring, living in the same 5km radius :tired: and with the weather now improving...

I have a question about the water flow to and from the IACV, there are two hoses,

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/0976930d-76a6-4fb6-a144-ed6c154a3dbe.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/0976930d-76a6-4fb6-a144-ed6c154a3dbe.jpg.html)

which in/outlets do they go to?

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/Magna/9d0c0543-0cc8-4e83-98c0-95b7bc0c8563.jpg (http://s136.photobucket.com/user/span12ner/media/Magna/9d0c0543-0cc8-4e83-98c0-95b7bc0c8563.jpg.html)

I have brought two complete driveshafts to replace the worn ones, is there anything else
I should replace while I am at it, I am thinking ball joints and tie rod ends?

Cheers spanner

Looks good. Off the thermostat housing to left or outer on top pic.

Thanks ts370000 I will get them on this weekend...