freshi
23-03-2015, 11:03 PM
Gday, as most of you know I track my beast and abuse it beyond believe, I have a big thread about brakes,
Anways now I will sum up a final summary on suspension, tyres, and brakes on this car for performance aspects
I have been lucky enough to make some contacts over the past few months to be able to get things below cost price and free labour....(nothing is for free hahha, always a few cases of beer and smokes and elbow grease was supplied)
First Brakes:
I done alot of messing around with the brakes, i got them catching on fire many times with vuiours pads, and I used the QFM AR1M pad compound...the 380 needs bigger brakes, PLAIN AND SIMPLE....I have tested many combos.....and found the ultimate set up without too much hassels in terms of fitment...
so fast forward after killing my brakes. new brake seals, pins, bleeders, pads, discs, fluid and lines
For ultimate track upgrade on budget
Front DBA 4000xs slotted and drilled with QFM AR1M Pads
Rear DBA 4000s Slotted rotors with QFM HPX Pads
Safebrake Braided Lines
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
Custom Front Air Coolers $20 cost but a nightmare to do
The reason for the rears to be different is because the rear brakes just dont get as hot as the front ones, I used AR1M in the rear but found it less effective, the HPX worked better in the rear, you want those rears to get nice and hot on the track, and the hpx with the slots worked best. (the rears ar1ms and s/d rotors was tooo cool if that makes sense)...they got hot but not what you want for the track, I needed hotter so the pads could actually wear and slow down better...
That is as best as you can get before going brembo
now to my current set up
Evo 10 brembo front calipers
DBA 4000s T3 Front Slotted Rotors 2 Piece
Ferodo Front DS2000 Front Pads
Girodisc Front Titanium Pad Shims
DBA 4000s Slotted rear rotors 380 size
QFM HPX Rear Pads 380 size
Braided Brake Lines
Castrol SRF Fluid
Finial Result (this is what the car should have come out with from factory, fromm 180km/h and hit the brakes it feels like your eyes are gona pop out of your sockets, and you need a race harness and bucket seats, really you do)
I plan on doing the rears soon....
Suspension
Pedders coilovers, after messing around with different spring rates I found the ultimate to be Front 12kgs springs and rears 8kgs springs, (the rear on this car is too light the front is too heavy)....this was also a nightmare to to, the coilovers where rebuilt 4 times to find the ultimate match, and countless adjustments where done in the process, The front spring tension needs to be stiffer than what comes out of the box, and the rear spring tension needs to be softer by about 15% than what comes out the box....27 clicks front rebound and 22 clicks rear rebound (from soft)...super pro bushes all around, new oem bushes where applicable, whiteline front and rear heavy duty sway bar links, whiteline camber pins, then a nice wheel aligment
2.2 deg camber front
1.4 deg toe out front
1.9 deg camber rear
2.3 deg toe in rear
Ride height from front lower cross member engine bracket 7cm to floor all around
the 380 suffers from over and understeer if not set up correctly, and has downsquat on accelration and front nose dive in brakeing and lift up on high speed sections, but coilovers fix about 70% of this issue...
guards rolled and plastic fanastic destroyed by tyres and removed....
tyres
Tyres, now when using 18x8 and a 245 45 18 profile tyre it flexes to much so you will get that SLOPPY feeling in the steering, even when I done coilover upgrade it improved but was still slopply, new bushes helped but still sloppy, aligment helped to but still sloppy, so next was the tyres and sloppynies is gone
I went for enkie 18x8.5 RPF1 all round i think +30 or +35 offset (yes my wheels stick out like crazy), with a 235 40 18 profile tyres yokohama advan A050R Spec these things stick like super glue and basicly elimintate the sloppy feeling, 34.5psi front and 36.2psi rear filled with nitrogen all round, wheels trued and balanced and tyres trued and balanced for an even rolling surface on all 4 wheels....and better contact with the road surface
If you want to have that firmer feel in the wheel you need a lower profile tyre,
After I got this beast to the way I wanted all i can say is that it is aswome to drive on the street and track, it feels like a truely balanced work of art when driven hard, it feels like a drivers car....however the flip side to this all, it lacks power for the track on the straights, it still got balls around corners and hills but not enough grunt for straight
My next venture with this car is to race spec it up a bit, seats, harness, steering wheel, weight reductions, and engine cooling... and work try work on aero dynamics which wont be easy
then call me crazy, I want to remove power steering and abs completely
then
after working on those aspects my next task is, ENGINE POWER and STRENGTH....This will require a full rebuild and custom built motor with forced induction and gearbox strengthen (such as straight cut gears for 1,2,3rd gears with much longer ratios), tuning, etc etc... stronger cv joints, ceramic wheel bearings, and custom suspension braces, engine mounts and engine shock absorber etc etc...
this will be a long venutre
I will be going for a new 380 clean 380, My car has coped it left right and centre, its probaly one of the worst looking 380s now with the amount of dents, scraps and scratches and cable ties holding things togther on the outside hahaha, nothing beat the first kiss i had on the track with another car. I though it was the end of the world then I just learnt to let go and have fun, I havent washed my beast in over 4-5months now....I just accosionly clean the windows because its a race car lol
I just wanted to make an update, cya all in a couple months
Any questions please ask,
Anways now I will sum up a final summary on suspension, tyres, and brakes on this car for performance aspects
I have been lucky enough to make some contacts over the past few months to be able to get things below cost price and free labour....(nothing is for free hahha, always a few cases of beer and smokes and elbow grease was supplied)
First Brakes:
I done alot of messing around with the brakes, i got them catching on fire many times with vuiours pads, and I used the QFM AR1M pad compound...the 380 needs bigger brakes, PLAIN AND SIMPLE....I have tested many combos.....and found the ultimate set up without too much hassels in terms of fitment...
so fast forward after killing my brakes. new brake seals, pins, bleeders, pads, discs, fluid and lines
For ultimate track upgrade on budget
Front DBA 4000xs slotted and drilled with QFM AR1M Pads
Rear DBA 4000s Slotted rotors with QFM HPX Pads
Safebrake Braided Lines
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
Custom Front Air Coolers $20 cost but a nightmare to do
The reason for the rears to be different is because the rear brakes just dont get as hot as the front ones, I used AR1M in the rear but found it less effective, the HPX worked better in the rear, you want those rears to get nice and hot on the track, and the hpx with the slots worked best. (the rears ar1ms and s/d rotors was tooo cool if that makes sense)...they got hot but not what you want for the track, I needed hotter so the pads could actually wear and slow down better...
That is as best as you can get before going brembo
now to my current set up
Evo 10 brembo front calipers
DBA 4000s T3 Front Slotted Rotors 2 Piece
Ferodo Front DS2000 Front Pads
Girodisc Front Titanium Pad Shims
DBA 4000s Slotted rear rotors 380 size
QFM HPX Rear Pads 380 size
Braided Brake Lines
Castrol SRF Fluid
Finial Result (this is what the car should have come out with from factory, fromm 180km/h and hit the brakes it feels like your eyes are gona pop out of your sockets, and you need a race harness and bucket seats, really you do)
I plan on doing the rears soon....
Suspension
Pedders coilovers, after messing around with different spring rates I found the ultimate to be Front 12kgs springs and rears 8kgs springs, (the rear on this car is too light the front is too heavy)....this was also a nightmare to to, the coilovers where rebuilt 4 times to find the ultimate match, and countless adjustments where done in the process, The front spring tension needs to be stiffer than what comes out of the box, and the rear spring tension needs to be softer by about 15% than what comes out the box....27 clicks front rebound and 22 clicks rear rebound (from soft)...super pro bushes all around, new oem bushes where applicable, whiteline front and rear heavy duty sway bar links, whiteline camber pins, then a nice wheel aligment
2.2 deg camber front
1.4 deg toe out front
1.9 deg camber rear
2.3 deg toe in rear
Ride height from front lower cross member engine bracket 7cm to floor all around
the 380 suffers from over and understeer if not set up correctly, and has downsquat on accelration and front nose dive in brakeing and lift up on high speed sections, but coilovers fix about 70% of this issue...
guards rolled and plastic fanastic destroyed by tyres and removed....
tyres
Tyres, now when using 18x8 and a 245 45 18 profile tyre it flexes to much so you will get that SLOPPY feeling in the steering, even when I done coilover upgrade it improved but was still slopply, new bushes helped but still sloppy, aligment helped to but still sloppy, so next was the tyres and sloppynies is gone
I went for enkie 18x8.5 RPF1 all round i think +30 or +35 offset (yes my wheels stick out like crazy), with a 235 40 18 profile tyres yokohama advan A050R Spec these things stick like super glue and basicly elimintate the sloppy feeling, 34.5psi front and 36.2psi rear filled with nitrogen all round, wheels trued and balanced and tyres trued and balanced for an even rolling surface on all 4 wheels....and better contact with the road surface
If you want to have that firmer feel in the wheel you need a lower profile tyre,
After I got this beast to the way I wanted all i can say is that it is aswome to drive on the street and track, it feels like a truely balanced work of art when driven hard, it feels like a drivers car....however the flip side to this all, it lacks power for the track on the straights, it still got balls around corners and hills but not enough grunt for straight
My next venture with this car is to race spec it up a bit, seats, harness, steering wheel, weight reductions, and engine cooling... and work try work on aero dynamics which wont be easy
then call me crazy, I want to remove power steering and abs completely
then
after working on those aspects my next task is, ENGINE POWER and STRENGTH....This will require a full rebuild and custom built motor with forced induction and gearbox strengthen (such as straight cut gears for 1,2,3rd gears with much longer ratios), tuning, etc etc... stronger cv joints, ceramic wheel bearings, and custom suspension braces, engine mounts and engine shock absorber etc etc...
this will be a long venutre
I will be going for a new 380 clean 380, My car has coped it left right and centre, its probaly one of the worst looking 380s now with the amount of dents, scraps and scratches and cable ties holding things togther on the outside hahaha, nothing beat the first kiss i had on the track with another car. I though it was the end of the world then I just learnt to let go and have fun, I havent washed my beast in over 4-5months now....I just accosionly clean the windows because its a race car lol
I just wanted to make an update, cya all in a couple months
Any questions please ask,