My Ralliart manual drive train has begun to play up.

If I give it some extra throttle when driving along the rpms rise quickly by about 200-300, like something is slipping, then the drive train "catches up" after a second or two accompanied by some vibration from underneath.
I don't think it is the clutch slipping as it would rev out in the higher gears. In my case it is in all gears. Sounds like my limited slip diff is "slipping".

Any advice please.
I was told a Quaife unit was a replacement, but was around $1500 plus labour.

Sounds like a clutch slipping to me. How many km has it done?

I don't think it is the clutch slipping as it would rev out in the higher gears. In my case it is in all gears. Sounds like my limited slip diff is "slipping".

Can you explain this thought more? Because it sounds like your clutch is slipping.

Has done about 140Km. This is different to other manuals I have driven with worn clutches, where in the higher gears, if you give full throttle it will slip increasingly and rev up to max rpm.
This current clutch engagement is reasonably normal even if getting rather old. If I deliberately slip it, it can engage again again normally.
With my problem, there is a rumble from under the car for about 1 sec as if something was slipping, then engages.
I am not keen to run it hard as a test in case it fails then and there. I want it to keep going for a few more months to see if and how the problem worsens, and to investigate a new vehicle.
If it does turn out to be a clutch problem, that's easier to fix than a LSD problem. Fingers crossed, but I'm not optimistic.
Someone with LSD experience may be able to shed some light on this.

ive done a few diffs on my magna in my time.. it aint a diff problem. If it was it would feel like you are running over house bricks when you turn and be normal when straight.

Sounds to me like a clutch issue. Possibly engine mounts also. If it was a diff you would not be driving the car as its so bad you just wanna get out.

Does it slip differently when it's hot compared to when it's cold?

Sounds like clutch issue to me, not LSD.

The shudder is most likely just the engine and gearbox speeds re-aligning (in the same way a clutch can shudder if you release it too fast).

Has done about 140Km. This is different to other manuals I have driven with worn clutches, where in the higher gears, if you give full throttle it will slip increasingly and rev up to max rpm.
This current clutch engagement is reasonably normal even if getting rather old. If I deliberately slip it, it can engage again again normally.
With my problem, there is a rumble from under the car for about 1 sec as if something was slipping, then engages.
I am not keen to run it hard as a test in case it fails then and there. I want it to keep going for a few more months to see if and how the problem worsens, and to investigate a new vehicle.
If it does turn out to be a clutch problem, that's easier to fix than a LSD problem. Fingers crossed, but I'm not optimistic.
Someone with LSD experience may be able to shed some light on this.

I've had a dead clutch before and it would never actually let go when in gear, it would just have the issue that you mentioned in your first post about revving up a bit when let out quickly.

Easiest way to test the clutch is to let it out in 3rd from standstill, a good clutch will grab quickly and stall because of the low speed that the car is moving, a worn clutch will slip for a bit.

Does it slip differently when it's hot compared to when it's cold?

Sounds like clutch issue to me, not LSD.

The shudder is most likely just the engine and gearbox speeds re-aligning (in the same way a clutch can shudder if you release it too fast).

Temp makes no difference. I did have bad clutch bounce/ shudder recently when it was cold, just before this problem occurred.
Maybe something is loose/ broken with the clutch, though it is ok if I treat it normally. I am hard on it and the diff other times, but not to the point of thrashing them.

Have you done a visual inspection of the master and slave cylinders with a torch and mirror?

What's the fluid condition and level? When was it last replaced and bled?

I just did a test.
I held the brakes on and let the clutch out slowly in first with the engine idling.
Result: the car tried to move forward, the revs dropped, but then I could let the clutch out quite a bit further without stalling. The clutch was slipping and it made the rumbling noise I noted earlier.
Looks like I need a new clutch.
Any suggestions for a Ralliart clutch? Nothing too expensive, the car is getting pretty old, has some hail damage to the bodywork and is not worth very much.

But it's a manual Ralliart and I love it!

I just did a test.
I held the brakes on and let the clutch out slowly in first with the engine idling.
Result: the car tried to move forward, the revs dropped, but then I could let the clutch out quite a bit further without stalling. The clutch was slipping and it made the rumbling noise I noted earlier.
Looks like I need a new clutch.
Any suggestions for a Ralliart clutch? Nothing too expensive, the car is getting pretty old, has some hail damage to the bodywork and is not worth very much.

But it's a manual Ralliart and I love it!

Get a 380 one, it's larger in size and you will love it. Either standard or HD, your choice.

You only need a small step machined in to the inside of your flywheel to make it fit.

After that test the clutch is really slipping now.
I have to drive like there are egg shells under the accelerator pedal.
Now investigating a clutch replacement. Seems the Ralliart clutch is 240mm diam as against 225mm for other Magnas.
Local Bitsaremissing dealer doesn't want to know about Magna or 380 parts.

After that test the clutch is really slipping now.
I have to drive like there are egg shells under the accelerator pedal.
Now investigating a clutch replacement. Seems the Ralliart clutch is 240mm diam as against 225mm for other Magnas.
Local Bitsaremissing dealer doesn't want to know about Magna or 380 parts.


Talk to Mal at Mitsfix, Which is Madmagna on these forums. He is a tree of knowledge and can send you the right clutch.

Evo clutch, straight bolt in for a ralliart as the flywheel is already stepped. 240mm, about $500 in parts.