Car due for timing belt kit/water pump and was wanting to know if tensioner should be replaced, no rattles on start up, am not a mean bugger, I just don't like replacing things if they don't need it, also I don't mind spending the dosh if need be. Car done 200,000 +. The spanner spinner I spoke to said if it ok then it really dont need replacing, which raises another question, if tensioner craps before next belt change is it a labour consuming job to replace?
Cheers.

General opinion on this forum is, that if you are paying someone for the job, do the whole lot at 200,000 km. Belt, idlers, water pump, cam/crank seals, tensioner. Complete kits can be bought for this purpose.

Replacing just the tensioner later on requires removing the crank pulley, timing covers, removing and replacing the tensioner, and setting it up. Then reassembly of the other bits.
So not dissimilar to doing the timing belt, time wise.
Whatever the labour charge for the full change, figure on about 80% of that, at a guess, for replacing just the tensioner.

You decide if the tensioner is worth changing or not when the belt is done. Same for the water pump, idlers and crank/cam seals.

Note: rough handling of a 200,000 km old working tensioner has the potential to make it defective.

Cheers Max, was the thought I had, and yes everything you mentioned is going to be done. One more thing, are after market tensioners ok or spend a few more bucks for the mitsi ones?

Cheers Max, was the thought I had, and yes everything you mentioned is going to be done. One more thing, are after market tensioners ok or spend a few more bucks for the mitsi ones?

Spend the extra and get a genuine one.

Thank you ammerty I will. These cars are a mystery to me with all the bits and bobs that are under the bonnet. Is why i pay someone to work on it.

We do a kit with pump, belt and genuine NTN tensioner.

As for taking as long to do a belt to do a tensioner, this is BS as well, generally if you do not allow the old tensioner to release when you do the belt in the first place the chances are you will have no issues however most mechanics release the tensioner and then use a vice to push back the pin and this is often what kills them

......most mechanics release the tensioner and then use a vice to push back the pin and this is often what kills them

Is there a special tool to push the tensioner back in once released outside of the engine, or is it knackered if released? Can you bolt it back on the engine and use the tensioner arm to push it back to its lowest setting?

I've replaced the tensioner before, on my old 6G74, and used a small drill bit to lock the tensioner down before removing it. But in my first practise run, on a retired engine, I used a vice to reset the tensioner. I think the factory manual says it is okay to do this.

This was on and engine that was never run again, but if there's a magic reset button, or procedure, for the tensioner it would be handy to know.

Is there a special tool to push the tensioner back in once released outside of the engine, or is it knackered if released? Can you bolt it back on the engine and use the tensioner arm to push it back to its lowest setting?

I've replaced the tensioner before, on my old 6G74, and used a small drill bit to lock the tensioner down before removing it. But in my first practise run, on a retired engine, I used a vice to reset the tensioner. I think the factory manual says it is okay to do this.

This was on and engine that was never run again, but if there's a magic reset button, or procedure, for the tensioner it would be handy to know.

Yes, vice is ok to use, but it needs to be done GENTLY, ie slowly.
The manual says it needs to be done slowly, but doesn't say why. I'm guessing rough handling upsets the internal bits.

I don't have a vice so I cheat. Before taking the old belt off, I line up all the marks, then put a spanner on the rear cam bolt, and press on it clockwise without actually moving the cam more than a couple of mm. This removes slack from the rear belt run, the plunger retracts slowly by the few mm needed, and when the holes line up I slip a drill bit or pop rivet into it. Don't actually need to remove the tensioner off the engine that way. The less it is disturbed, the more I like it.
This worked well both times I've done it.

Of course, if it has been leaking you need to replace it, so have a good look for external stains first and fluid accumulated at the point where the plunger enters the body of the tensioner.

I don't have a vice so I cheat.

That's not a cheat - It's a Brilliant idea - wish I'd have thought of it before my vice and I did battle...

I have rarely if ever taken a tensioner off the motor when doing a belt unless replacing it, have always locked it off prior to releasing the belt