As the title suggests, anyone tried it?

Have used HPR10 as recommended by many. I'm due an oil change and Gulf Western is both cheap and Australian.

Thoughts or results?

id rate G/W oil as one step up from the oil you buy at the supermarket...

How often do you do oil changes?
To be honest I would be hesitant to use that oil.

I recommend Mobil or Shell oils.

Thought it would be good enough for the 4wd farm ute. Cheers Vee


IM A NORWICH CITY SUPPORTER Go city!!!

You know, all oils come out of the same hole in the ground. Synthetics maybe an exception. How much can the oil companies add to it to make it sooo much better than all the other brands out there?

Oils and filters are cheap, engines not so cheap, up to you what you put in your engine. 50 bucks for decent oil, mastercard for a new engine.

id rate G/W oil as one step up from the oil you buy at the supermarket...

Is that from experience you came to that conclusion?

50 bucks for decent oil, mastercard for a new engine.

A well maintained Magna...priceless.

Nulon is supposedly Australian too.
I use 10W-40 in the Magnas, seems to do ok.
Can't find it cheap at the moment though, and I'm going to need some by Christmas!

Had a quick look at their website. I see nothing wrong with their oils. A few a them meet some high specs such as MB 229.5, which is the same as Penrite HPR 5. Price is about on par.

I'm assuming this thread came about as Supercheap has the Premium Gold 15w40 on sale atm. It meets the specs for a Magna but is nothing special. The one I'd go for is Syn-X 6000 which seems on par with HPR 5, altough Supercheap don't seem to sell it.

How often do you do oil changes?
To be honest I would be hesitant to use that oil.

I recommend Mobil or Shell oils.
Every 15k - I've been happy with the Penrite, but looking at options. I try to find the best compromise between price & quality where possible.


You know, all oils come out of the same hole in the ground. Synthetics maybe an exception. How much can the oil companies add to it to make it sooo much better than all the other brands out there?
I guess it's the refining process - some brands may be cheaper due to lower production costs = less refining and therefore more impurities? But largely I agree, how much difference can there be?


Oils and filters are cheap, engines not so cheap, up to you what you put in your engine. 50 bucks for decent oil, mastercard for a new engine.
I agree however I own both $100 jeans and $50 jeans. The $100 ones don't always last twice as long or feel twice as comfy as the $50 ones.... with a family of five on one income, you often have to save a dollar where you can, that's why I'm after feedback from those who may have used Gulf Western.



Is that from experience you came to that conclusion?
Snap - was going to ask the same thing!


Nulon is supposedly Australian too.
I use 10W-40 in the Magnas, seems to do ok.
Can't find it cheap at the moment though, and I'm going to need some by Christmas!
Thanks Max, valuable contribution as always...


Had a quick look at their website. I see nothing wrong with their oils. A few a them meet some high specs such as MB 229.5, which is the same as Penrite HPR 5. Price is about on par.

I'm assuming this thread came about as Supercheap has the Premium Gold 15w40 on sale atm. It meets the specs for a Magna but is nothing special. The one I'd go for is Syn-X 6000 which seems on par with HPR 5, altough Supercheap don't seem to sell it.
Correct - although I think the Syn-X 3000 is similar to the widely recommended HPR 10?


Thanks for all the feedback - good discussion so far! Still hoping to hear from someone who's used it in their Maggie?

I not so long ago owned a magna (moved on now) but did use GW dino oil (non syn) in it for around 30 000k, but I bought my oil changes closer to about 7000k intervals, I had no problems with it. I wouldn't recommend using GW oil, but that's preference, I only used it because of tight money. but if you are going to use GW change the oil every 5-7 thousand kilometres, or use it as an oil flush.

id rate G/W oil as one step up from the oil you buy at the supermarket...

That might be a fair comment on their cheapest oil, but for a few dollars more their Syn-X 3000 would be several steps up. I'd use it if I wanted a 10W-40 oil. I know of people who have used GW for years (not in Mitsubishis) & who recommend it.

If you want 5W-40, last I heard their Syn-X 6000 is only available from distributors & not from Repco etc.

So you use cheaper oil and then move the changes closer, is that not false economy?

I use Penrite, so yes is a couple bucks more expensive but how expensive is putting in a new motor??

Penrite is also Australian so that removes that argument as well

So you use cheaper oil and then move the changes closer, is that not false economy?

I use Penrite, so yes is a couple bucks more expensive but how expensive is putting in a new motor??

Penrite is also Australian so that removes that argument as well

Actually used the HPR10 last time and have been happy with it, so I'm not afraid to spend the money if it is truly necessary.
I certainly wouldn't use the cheapest GW oil but am interested in peoples experience with the semi/fully synth versions.

I'm not looking for an argument against particular oils as non-Australian companies, rather I'm looking for an argument for GW if anyone can provide one? The fact it is an Australian company is a positive as I prefer to support local employers wherever possible.

Cheers Ben

Get a high quality oil and have peace of mind

Get a high quality oil and have peace of mind

true, that.
Then again, I ran the cheapest 20W-50 oils in my second gens, and when I took the heads off the V6 the honing marks were still visible, and no wear ridge at the top at 220,000 km.
The same oil in the 2.6L engine in a Sigma on the other hand - major bore wear and in need of a rebore at the same km.

My logic says the metallurgy in car engines and oils have improved greatly over the decades, and you shouldn't worry too much about what make of oil go into your engine.

You might as well get the best though, seeing you are saving money by doing your own oil changes anyway.

...the same oil in the 2.6L engine in a Sigma on the other hand - major bore wear and in need of a rebore at the same km.


Any Sigma engine with that kind of mileage would have needed similar work regardless of what oil was used - most owners never bothered, which is why many never saw out the 90s.

Any Sigma engine with that much mileage would have needed similar work regardless of what oil was used.

That's true of most engines of the Sigma era. Holden red motors needed a rebore after 200,000 km as well. A full synthetic like Mobil 1 from the first oil change would have helped a lot though.

Honing marks were originally there to help rings seat down, and the bores went mirror smooth after a while.

Then manufacturers went to much harder block materials, and the honing marks were made deeper to hold oil and reduce piston to cylinder wall friction. (That's my interpretation anyway)

From my research the cheapest oil is Valvoline 20W-50 dino oil at about $15/5L, the most expensive is Mobil 1 at some $85/5L.

Repco have sale on Penrite Vantage 10/40 for $29.99 for 6l - what i don't know is whether this suitable for 3rd gen engines.... (I only use Penrite HPR 5W/40 full synthetic myself).

http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/hot-deals/523vnlukh.html?pid=promotedCatalogue#pageNo=0

Repco have sale on Penrite Vantage 10/40 for $29.99 for 6l - what i don't know is whether this suitable for 3rd gen engines.... (I only Penrite HPR 5W/40 full synthetic myself).

http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/hot-deals/523vnlukh.html?pid=promotedCatalogue#pageNo=0

That looks a good price - has anyone got advice whether Penrite Vantage 10/40 (semi-synth) is OK for use in 3rd Gen's?

I've used Penrite 5-30 Semi Synth in my Territory without issue...

Back on topic, doesn't look like anyone has tried the GW oils.

I'm taking the guesswork out of engine oils and going for HPR 10. At less than $50, why not?
(Although, if I see the Nulon semi-synth 10W-40 cheap, I may change my mind. lol)

Nulon Semi- Synth 10W-40 at Supercheap for $45.88 vs. HPR10 at $53.99...

What do you consider cheap for the Nulon?

I got the HPR10 for about $40 last time at Repco.

That looks a good price - has anyone got advice whether Penrite Vantage 10/40 (semi-synth) is OK for use in 3rd Gen's?

I've used Penrite 5-30 Semi Synth in my Territory without issue...

Vantage 10w40 will be fine if you want to stick to a semi-synthetic, just make your oil change intervals closer.

Since were talking about cheap oil.
Anybody used this? http://www.peakoil.com.au/engine-oil/

I discovered Bursons re-brand this oil for their stores under their own Burson label.

I've used GW but that was when I drove around in a MK3 Capri, and MK2 Escort. Worked fine with those motors but I wouldn't look at putting it in a fuel injected car. That's just going off personal opinion by the way.

All the cars I've had I've used either good quality, full synth or at least semi. (Rotary not included of course)

Rebuilding a 2L/1.6L is a lot easier than a Magna, so just fork out the bikkys for the good stuff lol

Nulon Semi- Synth 10W-40 at Supercheap for $45.88 vs. HPR10 at $53.99...

What do you consider cheap for the Nulon?

I got the HPR10 for about $40 last time at Repco.

I paid a lot less than that for the Nulon, but it was a while back, when it first appeared on the market. Stocked up a couple of year's worth, looks like the price has escalated rapidly since then.

Stocked up on Ryco filters at about the same time - same thing happened there, price went up a lot.

Might as well keep an eye out for specials, and stock up on either the Nulon or Penrite.

As the title suggests, anyone tried it?

Have used HPR10 as recommended by many. I'm due an oil change and Gulf Western is both cheap and Australian.

Thoughts or results?

i started using hpr10 penrite as advised by many on this website and my TF 3.0L V6 has stopped consuming oil and runs far better when cold on startup and when warmed up. because its thick when the car is cold (on startup) 50W, it protects against friction and rattling etc. and then thins out to a 10W when warm to not only provide excellent protection because its a fully synthetic oil but doesn't make the engine drag and doesn't make the engine fight to work against a thick oil. it is relatively thin when warm so allows the motor to work easily and not have to fight against a thick oil. most 50W oils when cold, are still thick when fully warmed up like 20W or 25W. i honestly have noticed a big difference after switching to Penrite HPR10
i've never looked back.
cheers

i started using hpr10 penrite as advised by many on this website and my TF 3.0L V6 has stopped consuming oil and runs far better when cold on startup and when warmed up. because its thick when the car is cold (on startup) 50W, it protects against friction and rattling etc. and then thins out to a 10W when warm to not only provide excellent protection because its a fully synthetic oil but doesn't make the engine drag and doesn't make the engine fight to work against a thick oil. it is relatively thin when warm so allows the motor to work easily and not have to fight against a thick oil. most 50W oils when cold, are still thick when fully warmed up like 20W or 25W. i honestly have noticed a big difference after switching to Penrite HPR10
i've never looked back.
cheers

Sorry, but no.

A 10W-50 oil has the characteristics of a 10W oil when cold (-25 degrees C, actually).
This means its not as thick when cold as a monograde 30 oil, for example, so it flows better.

But at 100 degrees C (operating temp) it has the characteristics of a SAE 50 grade.
It is thinner at this temp, but it hasn't thinned down so much that it doesn't give good protection (as would be the case with a monograde 10W oil).

The viscosity of a xW-50 oil at 100 degrees is in the range 16.3 to 21.9 cSt, according to the Penrite fact sheet.
An xW-30 oil (the lowest recommended by Mitsubishi) is 9.3 to 12.5 cSt.
However a 10W oil is only 4.1 cSt.

Sorry, but no.

+1. Glad you sorted that out. lol

The Mitsu owner's handbook suggests a number of different grades for the third gen, even the cheapest 20W-50 is ok to use.
Plus the fact oils have improved since that handbook was written suggests just about any oil will do short term.

If you want to show some love for your Mitsu though, feed it some good stuff, like HPR 10.

Is it not ideal to have the thinnest oil when cold, such that things get lubricated faster?
So, like a 0W40 or 0W50 for example?

I haven't persobally used it in my Magna, however I know 2 people that use it without a problem, a friends 97 ce lancer with over 300,000kms has been using it for the last 7 years and never had a problem with it.. My dad actually uses (abuses) it too, he has a 98 au with 450,000kms and the car has not been serviced in years, the oil is about 100,000kms old and never added a drop of oil and as it runs gas the oil still looks like it just came out of the bottle.. Obviously not recommend to do this and this is his beater car so no F**** are given towards it.. His theory is drive it till it dies then get it picked up for scrap metal

Just my 2 cents worth.
The viscosity of oil changes as it heats up.
Viscosity modifiers are added to stop it from being too thick when cold and too thin when hot.
Its the viscosity modifiers that break down in time and under stress conditions.
Oils ain't oils as the old castrol ad use to go (okay I am showing some age!).
Different oil baselines need different amounts of viscosity additives, so you get what you pay for.
Poor baseline oil with lots of modifiers = $ cheaper = quicker degrading of the viscosity characteristics = more oil changes.
All other things equal, a 0W40 would be better than 0W50.

Nulon is supposedly Australian too.
I use 10W-40 in the Magnas, seems to do ok.
Can't find it cheap at the moment though, and I'm going to need some by Christmas!

Nulon 10W-40, semi-synthetic, 5L jugs.
$27.99 at Autobarn, today 27/4/2015.

Walked out with 3 jugs. All set for the Christmas oil change blitz. lol

I have used it once or twice before. Found my car used oil when running on Gulf Western. Wasn't burning it and it wasn't turning up in the intake or PCV tube. Just "used" oil.

Went to get some Nulon semi synth 10w-40 from repco on special for $24 but they were only given 6 bottles and so sold out already...

Ended up with Penrite Hpr15 for $41..

Oil and brake pads done today in 2hr, happy man...

Repco currently has Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 for $50.
It would be crazy to use anything else considering this is one of the best oils out there and can easily last 15,000km on a 3rd gen

Some engines seem to "like" some oils better than others, and engines are designed for a specific oil (look at your original owners book it will likely specify a type or even brand of oil), this is because it has the basic 20/50 10/40 10/30 whatever rating, but also the additives. Some oils seem to match this better than others, best advice I can give is buy a decent oil - not to cheap - and change it more often, unless you are thrashing your car or in extreme climates of course . Gulf Western I'm sure meets the basic specification, if it's cheap - change it early and all should be good.

Repco currently has Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 for $50.
It would be crazy to use anything else considering this is one of the best oils out there and can easily last 15,000km on a 3rd gen

- - except that its no longer Australian made.

- - except that its no longer Australian made.

Does Australia make any oils any more - I thought the last refinery was shut down, a good pacific war and you'll be trying to use e100 from cane sugar and honey bee lubricants......

There are a (decreasing) number still operating:


Australia

New South Wales

Kurnell Refinery (Caltex), 124,500 bbl/d (19,790 m3/d),[46] Botany Bay Closing in 2014
Clyde Refinery (Royal Dutch Shell), 100,000 bbl/d (16,000 m3/d), Clyde Closed in 2012

Victoria

Geelong Refinery (Vitol), 130,000 bbl/d (21,000 m3/d), Geelong
Altona Refinery (ExxonMobil), about 75,000 bbl/d (11,900 m3/d), Altona North (refinery reduced from 2 trains to 1 train between 2000–2004)

Queensland

Bulwer Island Refinery (BP), 90,000 bbl/d (14,000 m3/d), Bulwer Island Closing in 2015
Lytton Refinery (Caltex), 104,000 bbl/d (16,500 m3/d), Lytton

South Australia

Port Stanvac Refinery (ExxonMobil), 100,000 bbl/d (16,000 m3/d) Closed in 2003
Lonsdale (mothballed since 2003 - 239 ha site to be cleaned up and redeveloped for housing)

Western Australia

Kwinana Refinery (BP), 138,000 bbl/d (21,900 m3/d), Kwinana

New Zealand

Marsden Point Oil Refinery (Refining NZ), 96,000 bbl/d (15,300 m3/d)

Papua New Guinea

InterOil Refinery (InterOil), 32,500 bbl/d (5,170 m3/d)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_oil_refineries#Australia

And there is some good news which I wasn't aware of until I started looking into this:


Australian oil refineries are closing, but Vitol believes it can defy the trend

Date: January 9, 2015

Swiss oil trader Vitol could hardly have timed its entry to the Australian fuel market better.

When it emerged as the buyer of Shell's local downstream business in February 2014, there was a degree of surprise that anyone would want to take on the ageing, loss-making refinery at its heart.

Australia's fleet of oil refineries had been closing down with alarming regularity before the transaction, and on announcing itself as the new owner and saviour of the Geelong asset, Vitol conceded that it was taking a punt that the industry's headwinds would recede.

"We are making a bet that refining will be a cyclically good business," said chief executive Ian Taylor on February 21, 2014.

Almost one year later, the purchase looks exquisitely timed thanks to a 10 per cent fall in the Australian dollar dragging down the cost of labour at the refinery.

The cost of buying crude oil, one of the major consumables for the refinery, has also fallen 54 per cent.

While Australia's small and ageing refineries will always struggle to compete with the new mega-refineries of South East Asia, the combination of events has given Vitol the best possible start to life in Australia.

The $2.9 billion purchase also gave Vitol control of Shell's network of 870 petrol stations; most of which are still branded in Shell livery and are managed by Coles Express.

[.....]



http://www.smh.com.au/environment/energy-smart/australian-oil-refineries-are-closing-but-vitol-believes-it-can-defy-the-trend-20150109-12kx67.html

I will certainly be buying more Sell petrol/lubricants when the opportunity presents itself.

Penrite and Nulon are Australian and both make a wide range of engine oils and other lubricants.

The issue is that their price is similar to that of leading fully synthetic oils...
I believe that Nulon and Penrite need to be cheaper to warrant buying them, but saving $7 or something to go for Penrite over Shell is not worth it in my opinion.