Wouldn't you know it - my sigma DIY service manual onlt talks about drum brakes on the rear wheels.

Mine has drums for the handbrake and discs for the foot brakes.

If anyone could post/link a procedure/pictures that describes the replacement of these pads that would be very helpfull.

There is only about 2.5 to 3.0 mm left on these pads and its probably prudent to replace them sooner rather than later.
That said - rate of wear on the rear disc pads seems to be about 30,000 KM per mm, so probably still fine for at least the next 10,000 KM or so.

Auto pro sells a bendix set for $63 and a cheaper one for $43.
Curious if anyone has tried some of the cheaper disc pads and how these fared.

Rear pad change should be the same as changing the fronts. I miss my GH sigma :cry:

Rear pads - the cheapest will do.
The procedure is pretty standard on all the rear disc/drum Mitsu setups, but check that the pistons retract smoothly, no leaks, and sliders are not seized.
If you find major differences in the thickness of the old pads, you know there is a problem with the pistons or sliders.
Careful with the bleeder nipples, they are fragile.


I miss my GH sigma :cry:

I miss my GE, GH, GK and GJ Sigmas too. All 6 of them.
Then I remember the poor fuel consumption, the number of blown engines, gearboxes and diffs I've rebuilt or replaced over the years of their ownership, and then I'm glad they are gone and now have reliable Mitsubishis.
Nostalgia - an over rated and very temporary emotion. lol

I don't miss my GJ sigma!
But probably will in the near future as it does look like crap warmed up.

It is interesting how little road respect I get when I am in my Sigma.
Not unusual for a "shiny car" to flaunt the road rules and simply take the right off way (must be a superiority complex!).

Back to the brakes.
Going by the info for the front disc brakes - there is mention of unbolting the caliper from the flange and throwing away those bolts.
Seems odd to me as they are only torqued at 45 NM (don't think these bolts come with the pads either).
Is there anything special about them (other than hardness!)?

Thanks for reminding me about those bleeder nipples.
Brings me back to when I was doing brake fluid bleeding on my Dad's torana.
One of those nipples sheared right off and we had to replace the caliper (even the experts couldn't extract it).

Pads don't come with bolts or shims, reuse them - don't know if there are shims between pads and pistons, but you will find out.

The manual always says "new caliper bolts" only because they have a blue locking compound on them. A dab of loctite and reuse!

Yep! Nipples are steel, calipers are alloy. Overtighten them, leave for 10 years, and they are pretty much welded together.
Snapsville!

Give them a soak of a penetrating oil if they won't loosen easily.
I loosen them before pushing the piston back in so I can see a fountain of very dirty brake fluid squirt out - don't want that going back up the brake lines!
Remember to compare the thickness of all 4 pads, any big difference suggests one side piston is not moving freely.

I'll start soaking them with Inox.
Don't seem to have much success with any penetrating oil - stuck seems to stays stuck - even with days of soaking.

I got the impression the bolts mentioned were something other than for the caliper guides.
Will have to look at the mechanics on the car, as the description in the manual is just awfull.

Yes, no doubt it will have dirty brake fluid.
Going to bleed the whole system to flush it all out, as part of the job (been in too long already!).