Hello everyone this is my first post, i have a 1994 TS Magna Wagon 4 cylinder manual.
I have an ongoing problem that started about a year ago, when starting the motor turns over as normal but will not fire ( normaly starts first time ) then for no reason starts working normally, it also started just stopping when driving. i would take it to a machanic and the car would just start again, i have replaced the fuel pump and the ECU unit with no result. An old time mechanic who i asked about my problem gave me a long line of horror stories regarding trying to solve this problem with no success.
Please i am desperate if anyone has any ideas or has had this problem.

First off, welcome and relax, someone will be along to help. (One thing I'd want to know how does it run when it does run. All smooth? When it stops does it just stop? When it starts again, how does it start?)

Hello everyone this is my first post, i have a 1994 TS Magna Wagon 4 cylinder manual.
I have an ongoing problem that started about a year ago, when starting the motor turns over as normal but will not fire ( normaly starts first time ) then for no reason starts working normally, it also started just stopping when driving. i would take it to a machanic and the car would just start again, i have replaced the fuel pump and the ECU unit with no result. An old time mechanic who i asked about my problem gave me a long line of horror stories redgarding trying to solve this problem with no success.
Please i am desperate if anyone has any ideas or has had this problem.

my car would start and then stop almost immediately then when restarted ran fine until i stopped at shops or where ever then same thing started and stopped when restarted ran fine turns out my battery was on it's way out and when i replaced battery no more problems

Any warning lights on the dash when it stalls/fails to start? Immobiliser fitted? Temperature related (eg, only does it when hot)? Humidity related (eg, only does it when raining)? Idles rough, low, RPM hunts while idling?

Run the engine at idle, open bonnet, wiggle some of the electrical connectors around the various sensors and components on the engine and see if it can be induced to stall (avoid the spark leads though while idling). Careful where your hands are as there are moving parts. Stop engine and inspect electrical cables and plugs to see if there is any damage or corrosion. Check spark leads for damage. Unplug spark leads and check for evidence of problems inside the boots (powdery deposits, punctures etc).

You've replaced ECU and fuel pump. Still plenty of other avenues to pursue yet.

First off, welcome and relax, someone will be along to help. (One thing I'd want to know how does it run when it does run. All smooth? When it stops does it just stop? When it starts again, how does it start?)

Thank you for replying, it runs perfectly when going and when it stops it turns over but no spark.Starts first time normally. There is an update, i looked at the starter motor and the eletrical conection and it does not look good very dirty and there seems to be a break in the wiring. one more clue is that over the years ive had the car it has killed two batteries.

Any warning lights on the dash when it stalls/fails to start? Immobiliser fitted? Temperature related (eg, only does it when hot)? Humidity related (eg, only does it when raining)? Idles rough, low, RPM hunts while idling?

Run the engine at idle, open bonnet, wiggle some of the electrical connectors around the various sensors and components on the engine and see if it can be induced to stall (avoid the spark leads though while idling). Careful where your hands are as there are moving parts. Stop engine and inspect electrical cables and plugs to see if there is any damage or corrosion. Check spark leads for damage. Unplug spark leads and check for evidence of problems inside the boots (powdery deposits, punctures etc).

You've replaced ECU and fuel pump. Still plenty of other avenues to pursue yet.

No warning lights when it stops, i cant tell you if Immobiliser is fitted, not Temperature related, idles perfectly. looking at starter motor.

my car would start and then stop almost immediately then when restarted ran fine until i stopped at shops or where ever then same thing started and stopped when restarted ran fine turns out my battery was on it's way out and when i replaced battery no more problems

Thank you, i have had problems with battery have killed two of them, my current one was very strong while this problem was happening but i have drained it trying to start car, i am charging it now hope its still good.

On a related matter can anyone tell me how to download a workshop manual for my car.

yes

the older online manual sites appear to be shut down

sigma the same as 2nd gen

http://mmc-manuals.ru/Old_Mitsubishi_Cars#Mitsubishi_Sigma

Mitsubishi Sigma 1991-1995 Workshop Manuals, eng., pdf in zip archive, 52,9 MB
Mitsubishi Sigma 1991-1995 Electrical Wiring, eng., pdf in zip archive, 52,2 MB
Mitsubishi Sigma 1997 Workshop Manual, eng., pdf in zip archive, 28,3 MB
Mitsubishi Sigma 1997 Electrical Wiring, eng., pdf in zip archive, 6,63 MB


cd in pdf http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-VERADA-TR-TS-KR-KS-1991-1996-WORKSHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-/170934415078?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item27cc7c2ee6

a haynes or gregories is possible

download a manual $10
http://www.downloadamanual.net/p_moreinfo.php?id=2b44928ae11fb9384c4cf38708677c48 7a26d7f97e25dc2dac1f62b7bc305679

a zip type

http://depositfiles.com/files/cen9su9k9

Thank you.

This has me beat!

to test this -you have some one crank the engine as you wiggle the dissy plug and loom

Try cleaning the plug into the dissy

#I had a few second gens that the plug was faulty over time and corrosion

#One time I had to get a plug off a wreck and wire it in

#or its the dissy itself .

sorry for the late response... I didnt pick up it was a 4 cyl

What about the alternator? If it is running and then stops, it won't be the start motor that is faulty. You did mention that two batteries were killed off which makes me suspect the alternator.

Thank you for your reply. i have checked and cleaned dissy dont think thats it. I am thinking it may be the fatory immobiliser but i cant find any way to check it.

Hi vlad. would a faulty alternator cut all spark to the plugs. dissy and ignition coil?

If stalling/hard starting is preceeded by coughing and spluttering I would imagine you'd be looking for fuel delivery, airflow issues (air filter, injectors, MAF, air lines, fuel line etc).

If stalling/hard starting is sudden with no warning, maybe focus on electrical probs (dizzy, coil, spark drive transistor, spark leads and plugs, crank angle sensor, loose/damaged connectors, maybe even bad connection in the ignition barrel etc).

Would've thought an alternator problem would bring up the battery/charge warning light. If the alternator couldn't charge the battery while running and the battery drained resulting in an engine stall, I would think you'd struggle to get it restarted without jumper leads.

Lead acid car batteries don't like being discharged gradually without being recharged. A battery that has been gradually drained to near zero (left the interior lights on overnight?) will be permanently knackered and won't hold charge afterwards. If you can crank the engine normally the battery is likely OK. Driving heavy loads for short durations (ie, cranking a cold engine) are what car batteries are designed for.

If stalling happens with the throttle open and the engine pulling, probably not the idle step controller (common fault in Magnas that won't hold idle properly).

Thank you for your input. i am told the immobiliser is part of the ignition barrel a white disk that cotrols starting but as per my recent post i cant find any way to check it. When it stops there is no warning and it has stalled with the throttle open and the engine pulling.

Factory security system is called ETACS. Don't know if it has an engine immobiliser feature, but it does have a security warning lamp on the dash (extreme bottom-left position on the instrument cluster). If there's no lamp then no ETACS in your car.

If a third party immobiliser is fitted you'll probably have to look behind the drivers side kick panels/dash covers for boxes or circuit boards that look like they've been strapped in as an afterthought. A faulty one may be the cause - certainly was in my car with similar symptoms to yours.

Yes i will try that, i dont think it has a security warning lamp on the dash but will check. I read that you can bypass the immobiliser by connecting the starter motor directly to the battery.

ac1176 and juanisjam

great .. the magna might get fixed . we have two tasweeighens on this job



Immobiliser needs a power wire to the ignition cluster base for key activation

do you have a wiring diagram of that section and immobilizer

pop of the plastic surround below the steering wheel

see what wires go where from ignition