Hi all I need to replace the Valve stem seals in my KH, just wondering what people have paid for a set of these? cheers

I paid just under $120 for genuine seals, but Im in the trade and they looked after me. I have used non gen seals from burson and they were around $90 and have had no dramas

I paid just under $120 for genuine seals, but Im in the trade and they looked after me. I have used non gen seals from burson and they were around $90 and have had no dramas

ok cool thanks for your reply, a guy on ebay quoted me $72 but not sure what brand they are.

I bought FelPro seals from eBay US.
From my research they are OEM quality and were about $50 delivered for all 24.
It has been nearly 6,000km since I swapped them and so far the oil level is still on Max

I bought FelPro seals from eBay US.
From my research they are OEM quality and were about $50 delivered for all 24.
It has been nearly 6,000km since I swapped them and so far the oil level is still on Max

Thanks for that info Spetz, i will look into those ones, cheers

How do you plan on changing them over?
Once you know what you're doing it is not hard, but very time consuming, and if not careful can be disastrous.

How do you plan on changing them over?
Once you know what you're doing it is not hard, but very time consuming, and if not careful can be disastrous.

I'm looking into that by reading watching videos on how to do it. Some people use an air compressor to hold the valves in place and others use rope shoved into the spark plug hole, if you have any tips I would love to hear them, cheers

I've heard bad things about the compressed air option, such as the pressure causing the engine to turn over. Rope sounds like the safer option, but not tried either myself.

I've heard bad things about the compressed air option, such as the pressure causing the engine to turn over. Rope sounds like the safer option, but not tried either myself.

Yes agree with you Ensoniq5 with the rope option, if the air compressor breaks down or something goes wrong the valve will drop into the cylinder,

I bought FelPro seals from eBay US.
From my research they are OEM quality and were about $50 delivered for all 24.
It has been nearly 6,000km since I swapped them and so far the oil level is still on Max

My KH has been blowing smoke since I bought 4 years ago with 203,000 on the clock and its done 276k now, I left it idling the other day for 5 minutes and gave it a rev and it blew out a nice big cloud of blue smoke, I have tried different oils, but time has come to change the seal and the tappet cover seals and spark plug tube seals need replace now too.

Is this video on the right track?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFmC66YU6zI

It shows 2 useful tools (with part #'s) that might make the job easier.

Deano, where in NSW do you live?
I couldn't manage to install the valve springs with any of the traditional ways and was forced to come up with new ways to install the keepers/collets.
I ended up using thin metal zip ties that held the spring compressed (after I compressed it in a g clamp) and then after installation of the springs and keepers I would break and pull out these metal zip ties.
Tedious, but it worked really well and made installing the keepers real easy as there was no longer a space issue.

The video I posted above may have addressed this issue, and at a reasonable cost.

Is this video on the right track?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFmC66YU6zI

It shows 2 useful tools (with part #'s) that might make the job easier.

Hi leadfoot6, thanks so much for that video, will check it out after work today, cheers

Deano, where in NSW do you live?
I couldn't manage to install the valve springs with any of the traditional ways and was forced to come up with new ways to install the keepers/collets.
I ended up using thin metal zip ties that held the spring compressed (after I compressed it in a g clamp) and then after installation of the springs and keepers I would break and pull out these metal zip ties.
Tedious, but it worked really well and made installing the keepers real easy as there was no longer a space issue.

Hi Spetz, i'm in Bathurst, I have a valve spring compressor

Leadfoot, I bought that tool and it does not work on our motors. It is really helpful to remove the springs but useless in installing them.

Deano, what valve spring compressor? Those overhead ones? They are useless too.
If you were closer I would have shown you how to do a couple but bathurst is 200km from me :)

Leadfoot, I bought that tool and it does not work on our motors. It is really helpful to remove the springs but useless in installing them.

Deano, what valve spring compressor? Those overhead ones? They are useless too.
If you were closer I would have shown you how to do a couple but bathurst is 200km from me :)

Hi Spetz yes it is an overhead compressor, thanks for the offer to show me how to do a couple, I just seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8WTTfkyW8g can you please tell me if you think this method would work on a Magna/ Verada?

https://www.bolt.com.au/overhead-valve-spring-compressor-p-2081.html
This is the type I have used numerous times. I remove the center plate that holds the arms.

I tried using that one, modified the way you say, and my findings are that:
1. It is actually really hard to use, nearing on impossible
2. the way it clamps onto the spring, since it has the center place removed, those arms can (and will) touch the stem of the valve and likely scratch it, which means within a relatively short distance the valve stem seal will be leaking again.

I strongly recommend against using that spring compressor.

Rightio, Like I said never had a problem with the tool and used it numerous times. Maybe I just know what I'm doing

It is possible. There are other possibilities too.

After removing the center plate, what did you use to push down the spring and allow space to install the keepers?
The one I used had a socket with a window cut out.
But this worked poorly as the spring had potential to dislodge easily

I only removed the silver plate in that picture, so the arms could get in closer to each other. I also bent the black piece in slightly to sit on the valve spring retainer properly. Still have plenty of access to the collets which I used a magnet to remove them.

Ok I understand now.
Was the spring stable there?
And would the two arms be able to get close enough to touch the stem?

Yeah, spring was fine and never touched the stem

The spring compressor that I tried using (that was given to me already modified) had everything in the center removed. So all it had was that screw thing coming out, and I tried using a socket piece with a window cut out as a base to compress the spring + insert the keepers.

It was almost impossible to use, and definitely not feasible to have changed 24 valve stem seals with it

The spring compressor that I tried using (that was given to me already modified) had everything in the center removed. So all it had was that screw thing coming out, and I tried using a socket piece with a window cut out as a base to compress the spring + insert the keepers.

It was almost impossible to use, and definitely not feasible to have changed 24 valve stem seals with it

Hi Spetz yes it is an overhead compressor, thanks for the offer to show me how to do a couple, I just seen this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8WTTfkyW8g can you please tell me if you think this method would work on a Magna/ Verada? cheers

Deano,
You can remove them the way he did in the video but you won't be able to install them like that.
The 6G74 springs are pretty short and the zip ties will flex and take too much space considering how thick they are.

What you can do, and what I did do, is use metal zip ties. These things are paper thin and do not flex so they keep the spring compressed enough to install the keepers.
Once done, you use a flathead screwdriver and twist the locking part which rips the metal where it folds and then you can just pull the metal zip tie out with pliers.
You have to be really careful that no debris are left over. I use glad wrap EVERYWHERE except the direct are I was working in.

Here are some pics of how I did mine.
I used a G clamp to compress the spring, tightened the prior installed metal zip ties, installed the spring, retainer and keepers, and then twist to rip the metal fold and pulled out the zip ties. It really was not difficult and as you can see there are no space issues in installing the keepers

This is the g clamp I used and how the compressed spring ends up with the metal zip ties:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring1_zpsaexlv2dn.jpg

Put it over the valve stem (obviously after the seals were swapped over):
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring2_zpsawxcscnx.jpg

Add the retainer:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring3_zps2rrhlela.jpg

Install the keepers one by one:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring4_zps5foqa2yo.jpg

I don't have pics of how to remove the zip tie, but if you look at the top of the zip tie, there is the locking mechanism, and if you twist it it simply rips the zip tie where it has a fold, then you pull it out.

Pointers to keep is:
1. when installing the valve seal make sure you use the plastic protectors that go over the actual valve stem
2. Pour a bit of oil over the new seal and valve stem so it glides over

Deano,
You can remove them the way he did in the video but you won't be able to install them like that.
The 6G74 springs are pretty short and the zip ties will flex and take too much space considering how thick they are.

What you can do, and what I did do, is use metal zip ties. These things are paper thin and do not flex so they keep the spring compressed enough to install the keepers.
Once done, you use a flathead screwdriver and twist the locking part which rips the metal where it folds and then you can just pull the metal zip tie out with pliers.
You have to be really careful that no debris are left over. I use glad wrap EVERYWHERE except the direct are I was working in.

Here are some pics of how I did mine.
I used a G clamp to compress the spring, tightened the prior installed metal zip ties, installed the spring, retainer and keepers, and then twist to rip the metal fold and pulled out the zip ties. It really was not difficult and as you can see there are no space issues in installing the keepers

This is the g clamp I used and how the compressed spring ends up with the metal zip ties:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring1_zpsaexlv2dn.jpg

Put it over the valve stem (obviously after the seals were swapped over):
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring2_zpsawxcscnx.jpg

Add the retainer:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring3_zps2rrhlela.jpg

Install the keepers one by one:
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c104/spetz83/Valve%20spring4_zps5foqa2yo.jpg

I don't have pics of how to remove the zip tie, but if you look at the top of the zip tie, there is the locking mechanism, and if you twist it it simply rips the zip tie where it has a fold, then you pull it out.

Pointers to keep is:
1. when installing the valve seal make sure you use the plastic protectors that go over the actual valve stem
2. Pour a bit of oil over the new seal and valve stem so it glides over

Hi Spetz, thanks so much for going to the trouble to upload the photos for me, will make my job a lot easier, one think I'm not sure of is the plastic protectors you mentioned, do they come with the new valve stem seals? thanks so much for your help Spetz, I feel a lot more confident now tackling this job, Cheers Deano

I have decided that to replace the valve stem seals is too much of a pain in the butt, anyone have any idea what a mechanic would charge to do this? cheers

The plastic protectors come with the Fel Pro valve stem kit. Alternatively you can use some sticky tape to make them from what I understand.

Paying a mechanic would not be worth it, I think it would easily be a $1,000+ job.
The parts are cheap, but it does take a lot of time.

The procedure itself is somewhat fun though and once done it is very satisfying.

The plastic protectors come with the Fel Pro valve stem kit. Alternatively you can use some sticky tape to make them from what I understand.

Paying a mechanic would not be worth it, I think it would easily be a $1,000+ job.
The parts are cheap, but it does take a lot of time.

The procedure itself is somewhat fun though and once done it is very satisfying.

depends. some will just take the heads off and send them to a machine shop, or do them on the car

Taking the heads off in itself is a massively expensive job.
In the end you can't really spend $1,500 to stop using $50 worth of oil per year.
If you DIY there is at least satisfaction in it.

Taking the heads off in itself is a massively expensive job.
In the end you can't really spend $1,500 to stop using $50 worth of oil per year.
If you DIY there is at least satisfaction in it.

So true Septz, easier and cheaper just to fit a good second hand motor, I put Liqui Moly engine resealer in my car, hope that helps a bit, its done 277,000k's so its not worth just replacing the valve stems seals as something else may go wrong, better off fitting a low k second hand motor I guess.

3.8 upgrade

My engine has 204,000 and since the valve stem seals it hasn't used a drop of oil.
These motors are fairly long lasting, and at 277,000km it probably still has a lot of life left in it.
Swapping motors is also not a cheap or easy solution, and mind you oil consumption seems like a relatively common issue with these and it would be pretty disappointing to fit a motor only to find that it is still using oil.

Have you measured your oil consumption?
My car used about 450ml per 1,000km.
So, in 2,000km it would go from Max to Min on the dipstick roughly.

3.8 upgrade

Anything better about that motor besides a bit of extra power?

My engine has 204,000 and since the valve stem seals it hasn't used a drop of oil.
These motors are fairly long lasting, and at 277,000km it probably still has a lot of life left in it.
Swapping motors is also not a cheap or easy solution, and mind you oil consumption seems like a relatively common issue with these and it would be pretty disappointing to fit a motor only to find that it is still using oil.

Have you measured your oil consumption?
My car used about 450ml per 1,000km.
So, in 2,000km it would go from Max to Min on the dipstick roughly.

My car would use at least that much Spetz, maybe more, I don't change the oil every 10k as I would be throwing out good oil, I change it about once a year. It was been the same since I bought 4 years ago, hasn't gotten much worse.

It is up to you then to decide whether a top up every 1,000-2,000km is acceptable or you want to fix the oil consumption

It is up to you then to decide whether a top up every 1,000-2,000km is acceptable or you want to fix the oil consumption

I'm hoping the liqui moly stuff works, I'm sure it wont make much difference though, I'd like it fixed but i can't do it and I'm not spending $1500 on a car thats only worth $1500 so I will just have to live with it.

You decided it's beyond your mechanical capability?
Keep us updated on the liqui stuff, I too though am skeptical as to it's efficiency

You decided it's beyond your mechanical capability?
Keep us updated on the liqui stuff, I too though am skeptical as to it's efficiency

I can do a fair bit of stuff to my car but tackling the valve stems is beyond me, there is next to no room especially where the spark plug tubes are and my back isn't the best and I'm not that tall, be ok to do with the motor out but I'm just worried I would stuff something up. I sure will let you know how the liqui Moly stuff goes, says it takes 600k's to work, I doubt it will make much difference but hope it proves me wrong.

It's up to you. I also had zero experience in doing anything engine related (besides changing the oil) but devoted a lot of time into research and a lot of time into doing it right and it turned out well

It's up to you. I also had zero experience in doing anything engine related (besides changing the oil) but devoted a lot of time into research and a lot of time into doing it right and it turned out well

I fitted a second hand motor to a TS V6 Magna Advance back in 2009, I got the motor off ebay for $152, my brother owns the car now and its still running fine and blows no smoke, the guy that sold me the motor said it had work done to the heads at some stage, the original motor in the car stuffed up the day after I bought it as the timing belt broke, it sure was fun firing it up the first time after fitting the motor.

There is immense satisfaction in doing something yourself, especially something like swapping a motor.
If you managed to swap a motor then the stem seals shouldn't be too much of a challenge I would expect

I can do a fair bit of stuff to my car but tackling the valve stems is beyond me, there is next to no room especially where the spark plug tubes are and my back isn't the best and I'm not that tall, be ok to do with the motor out but I'm just worried I would stuff something up. I sure will let you know how the liqui Moly stuff goes, says it takes 600k's to work, I doubt it will make much difference but hope it proves me wrong.

Maybe you could go to somewhere like Pick and Payless at Blacktown and practice on one of the dozens of otherwise parts only engines.

If you make a mess of it, well, no harm done.

And another hopefully helpful video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es6raocApZQ

Maybe you could go to somewhere like Pick and Payless at Blacktown and practice on one of the dozens of otherwise parts only engines.

If you make a mess of it, well, no harm done.

And another hopefully helpful video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=es6raocApZQ

Good idea but with the motor in the car I find it very difficult to stretch and bend over to do the ones on the rear head, my back is not the best. Thanks so much for your reply much appreciated

Good idea but with the motor in the car I find it very difficult to stretch and bend over to do the ones on the rear head, my back is not the best.

I feel your pain, my back is cactus too and bending over an engine bay is not something I can do for long. I've always wanted to rig up some sort of sling from the garage roof beams but I reckon the bonnet would get in the way and reaching for tools could be a problem. Maybe a motorised, modified engine crane... now there's a thought!

I feel your pain, my back is cactus too and bending over an engine bay is not something I can do for long. I've always wanted to rig up some sort of sling from the garage roof beams but I reckon the bonnet would get in the way and reaching for tools could be a problem. Maybe a motorised, modified engine crane... now there's a thought!

i'm ok if I keep moving but to be in that position for too long bending over and stretching to reach something like the valve stem seals on the rear head i would be in so much pain,i'm getting old, lol

i'm ok if I keep moving but to be in that position for too long bending over and stretching to reach something like the valve stem seals on the rear head i would be in so much pain,i'm getting old, lol

Me too. Problem is, the Magnas are getting older and so are the owners. lol
Drive the car until some policeman says "Hey you, don't like your smokescreen!" then buy something newer?