Hey all

I purchased a KJ Xi SII Verada a few years ago (I think I posted it on here). Anyway I sold that, got a work car - then left that job.

Recently I found what I thought was the same model (except not Series II). My question is how do I tell the difference between the KH and the KJ and tell what I have?

It has the sunroof, leather interior (beige), gold colour exterior - 4 speed tippy. The stock audio is still in there, has a tape at the top and a 4 CD stacker at the bottom.

It says it was manufactured August 2000 which is almost right at the cusp of the KH and KJ.

Kind regards,

David

Ok so I eventually found a thread referring to the VIN numbers.
The VIN starts with 6MMKJ So I am assuming it's a KJ - must have been very early in the run.

Oh - I forgot - I have an issue with the remote locking. It works a few times and then stops. So I flick the key from ACC to ON and back a few times, press the buttons, and it "pairs" again and works for another 4 or 5 times - then stops.

The battery has been replaced in the remote.

Oh - I forgot - I have an issue with the remote locking. It works a few times and then stops. So I flick the key from ACC to ON and back a few times, press the buttons, and it "pairs" again and works for another 4 or 5 times - then stops.

The battery has been replaced in the remote.

Yes your Verada is a KJ, I have the same problem with my remote, they only seem to last about 4 years then they start to play up

This happened in the TJ-KJ series a lot. When it happened to me, it was because the voltage reg had cocked up, and done some damage to the BEM. So the remote central locking would play up.

It did this in the TJ Advance since it first failed.

Mike

Locker, the J series has the beaked bonnet and no extended tail lights on the boot lid. As for the remote, Mike may be on the ball. If you can, find a same series KJ Xi and swap the BEM and test. The BEM is under the dash next to the steering column. It is held in by a tab so use a flat head screwdriver and lever the tab out from behind. Best to use a mirror and work light to see what you are doing. The BEM is a black rectangular box about 5"x6"x1" in size. Good luck.

Locker, the J series has the beaked bonnet and no extended tail lights on the boot lid. As for the remote, Mike may be on the ball. If you can, find a same series KJ Xi and swap the BEM and test. The BEM is under the dash next to the steering column. It is held in by a tab so use a flat head screwdriver and lever the tab out from behind. Best to use a mirror and work light to see what you are doing. The BEM is a black rectangular box about 5"x6"x1" in size. Good luck.

You will only be able to use the BEM test the locks, it won't serve as replacement as it won't - on its own - let the car start.

Mike

The remote issue is exactly what I had. Is caused by dry or cracked solders between the battery holder and PCB inside the remote.

What's happening is you are bumping your remote in your pocket enough to make the faulty battery holder lose connection to the PCB. The remote loses its memory to the car, but next time you pair it it works fine. That is, until you drop or wobble the remote enough.

Get a new remote. I took mine apart and resoldered it to the PCB, but it's not very easy. Need to have the right equipment and be good at soldering, plus you'll have to melt some of the plastic battery holder out of the way so you can get an iron in there.

If you're confident with a soldering iron, give it a go - but be aware you might need to buy a new one anyway if you mess it up.

I agree with the last post. I tried 3 remotes and had this exact issue. Drove me nuts having to re-learn code every few weeks. I bought a 2nd hand one that had only been used as a backup and it is now over 7 months with no issues.

I thought I had email updates on this and didn't get anything. Sorry!!

So option 1 is to fix the remote or get another one
Option 2 is to try/test/get another BEM

It happens basically daily. It links fine - works for the day - then stops.

Both my remotes do this, even after replacing batteries. I'd "pair" them with the car using the pairing procedure and it would constantly disconnect. This was due to the battery soldering becoming disconnected from the board, I just rolled up a ball of glue tack and put it on top of the battery, pushing the solder together with force, resoldering it would fix it too, however i've yet to purchase a kit. 3 months on and it's still working with no issues, bodge job but it works.