View Full Version : 94 V6 Manual. not running.
edelbrock1
20-05-2015, 04:50 PM
Hi Guys, new here.
My Uncle who has a bit of a junk yard around his house gave me a 94 V6 Manual Magna. unfortunately it isnt running, but we will get to that.
Are the V6 Manuals rare? Is it worth persevering to get it running?
Story goes along the line of, it was on the highway and just stopped. Owner caught a ride to town, but in the couple of days it took to get back with a tow truck, it had been vandalised. Every window in it was smashed. Owner told the towie that they were not going to pay the tow fee and told him to keep the car. My uncle knows the towie. anyways. He put new door glass in it and sat a new back window in it. Then lost interest. This was about 18 months ago.
I asked him on the weekend what he was doing with it and he said if I come and get it before the end of the day it was mine. Hence it is now mine.
It was on LPG but at some point the tank has gone missing.
I took the intake hose off and put aerostart down the intake while cranking and finally got it to cough, but wouldnt run. Cranks over nice, no crunchy noises.
I suspect a fuel pump. But not entirely sure.
So, is it worth me messing around spending some money on this thing to get it running. Or is it worth more to someone else as a Manual conversion? Its done 240k's.
Thoughts??
Stickman72
20-05-2015, 06:22 PM
Don't think they're rare just not as common as the auto. Running with rego I'd expect it to get 1 - 2 grand tops. I saw a 94 V6 auto for sale here with 80k on the clock and bodywork straight as an arrow with a price of $2k and I paid $600 for my first Magna, V6 manual 210k, some oil leaks, a couple of minor dings and 8 months rego.
To me it depends on what your plans are for the car. Sell and make a quick buck or fix and use? I get the impression you are not looking at using it yourself so I'll skip that. It would be worth more to you parted out if you want the work of stripping it and the increased time in getting your money. To sell complete it would obviously be worth more running and if it is just a fuel pump, it's not that hard to diagnose and fix with a pump from the wreckers costing about $50-$70 (just been through this on mine). To use as a manual conversion it would be easier to get the whole car so you get all the little brackets bolts etc. that people never think of when doing this conversion (also the ECU is different).
Basically - Strip and sell parts = most money & most work
Fix and sell whole = relatively easy and quick if simple fix but could cause issues if problem is something big
Sell as is = least amount of effort but least money
Hope this helps
PS To check if the fuel pump works there is a fuel pump relay bypass under the bonnet against the firewall on the passengers side. Connect a wire directly to that from the positive on the battery and it will power the pump. No fuel coming out when wire connected = stuffed pump. If fuel comes out could be relay or other problem.
fordy_4
20-05-2015, 07:24 PM
I wouldn't bother with it to be honest
edelbrock1
20-05-2015, 07:33 PM
Thanks guys.
I originally asked him if he had a cheap (free) car so that I could do some Autocross and rally cross events at the local track. So that is still the plan. It also has a different colored door on the passenger side. So not really worth much at all.
Someone told me that manuals were rare as and it would be sort after. I hate wrecking cars if they are 'rare'.
Stickman, do you have a picture of this fuel pump relay bypass?
I just know the wiring could get messy with the gas wiring and missing tank and stuff. But I got it to fire with the aerostart. So there is still life in it yet.
fordy_4
20-05-2015, 08:28 PM
Yes, manual Magna's are rare. I've got a factory manual black 04' VRX and there was only one other for sale in W.A at the time, and now there's only 3 compared to 10+ autos
Makes this a good part-out because a Auto owner on here is bound to want a manual conversion
magna buff
21-05-2015, 06:58 AM
agreed the manual gearbox conversion parts would be its main selling point
doesnt need to be running- but preferred I guess-- just to check the gearbox
without seeing pictures and not sure about south australia prices
My guess start at $600 ono down to $300 for the car
to compare QLD I was lucky to get $300 for a third gen auto .complete driveable car
went to the scrapper last year
MadMax
21-05-2015, 09:14 AM
"Are the V6 Manuals rare?"
Yep!
"Is it worth persevering to get it running?"
Depends . . .
Old person with money would do a full restore to showroom condition.
Young person would just patch it up to get it running, then thrash it to death and then junk it.
So it depends on your age and inclination, funds available, and condition of the rest of the car.
edelbrock1
21-05-2015, 05:05 PM
Thanks again guys.
Are the gearboxes tough? Can they handle some punishment??
ts370000
21-05-2015, 05:53 PM
In WA I recently got a good dereg running v6 manual for 200 which I'm fixing up. (There seems relatively no shortage of registered 2nd gen 4cyl manuals around.) I'm looking now for another cheapie v6 while really only needing a box and ecu (for spares). There are regularly v6 manuals available, though spread about the state. One that sounded tantalising, but a bit too much for me, was/is a 130000k manual 1994 v6 in the city for 2000, supposedly in very good nick throughout. So, while relativelky rare, not rare enough to regard as a pot of gold by any stretch. More, imo, a good car fortunately ignored and devalued by the public.
magna buff
21-05-2015, 09:30 PM
[QUOTE Are the gearboxes tough? Can they handle some punishment??[/QUOTE]
some one asked me that in 2007 ..so I checked on parts availability and costs back then
and just swap a box was the final answer-- dont rebuild
a gearbox shop reply in 2007
the syncros are ceramic design . and are not easy to source $400 for one ,mostly sourced from overseas
the price of a TR/TS second hand box or recon =$ cant find one only autos
looking for whats available now on page 45 rebuild kit is listed
the 5 speed gearbox = KM 5218
TR/TS 03/91-04/96 V6 3.0i 5 sp K-MIT5218
KS1 04/94-10/96 V6 3.0i 5 sp K-MIT5218 S/Wagon only
http://www.austtrans.com/f.ashx/Kit-Catalogue_08_2012.pdf
edelbrock1
03-06-2015, 06:44 PM
Do the 4 cylinder cars use the same fuel pump as the V6's??
magna buff
03-06-2015, 08:00 PM
this seller says they are the same motors
think you can only buy the pump motor these days
wagon tank mount will be different to a sedans thats about it
Brand New Mitsubishi Intank Fuel Pump in Box
Suit: Magna TR TS
4CYL & V6
4/91-03/1996
EFI 38 mm Pump
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBISHI-MAGNA-TR-TS-INTANK-FUEL-PUMP-4CYL-V6-/280943513499?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item416989cf9b
edelbrock1
04-06-2015, 04:45 AM
Cool Thanks. I edge closer and closer to getting this thing running. :)
magna buff
05-06-2015, 06:28 PM
are you able to add a picture of the car
use
photobucket .com or http://tinypic.com/ any other free pic uploader for forums on the internet
after you get it running , and want to keep it --
-- ask lots of questions here
or get a repair manual
edelbrock1
06-06-2015, 06:59 AM
http://i826.photobucket.com/albums/zz186/edelbrock1/IMG_1464.jpg (http://s826.photobucket.com/user/edelbrock1/media/IMG_1464.jpg.html)
There she is. best pic I have at the moment. That was the day I picked it up. Has blue trim. Not the most stunning combination. :)
magna buff
06-06-2015, 09:56 AM
its not that bad
work in progress for now
wait to see how good the motor is
mags will make it pop
GRDPuck
06-06-2015, 07:33 PM
We have a '95 TS V6 Manual wagon. They're an awesome car. The engine's strong - plenty of grunt (especially coupled to a manual box) and very reliable when treated well. Ours has done around 450,000kms and still going strong.
They make a great every day driver but would also make a great & cheap autocross car.
edelbrock1
27-06-2015, 05:33 PM
Well, it lives (kinda)
Got a chance to throw a battery at it today. Cranked it while throwing some aerostart down its neck. It sat and ran for as long as I was spraying the can. Engine sounds sweet, no rattles or noises.
Power to the fuel pump. Beauty, I have a spare, I will just throw a new one in. This is where it all turned to shit. After an hour of rooting around, finally got the fuel line undone and took out the fuel pump. Oh dear. Covered in rust and scaly crap. No way I am putting a new pump in there, out with the tank to see how bad it is. Another hour of rooting around, oh how a lonooonng 14mm socket would have come in handy here. Anyways, tank is out, but the news isn't good. Trashed. Bugger.
Anyone in Adelaide got a good tank they want to get rid of?? Cheap as possible?? Free would even be better.
Then I got thinking, if the tank is like that, what condition are the injectors in? So half thinking about scrapping this thing now. It is nearing the THB.
But I guess if anyone has a spare tank they are willing to let go cheap, I will throw that at it an see what happens.
What about injectors? Anyone got a 2nd hand set they are going to bin?.
Thanks.
MadMax
27-06-2015, 05:40 PM
The injectors should be fine.
The grot has to get past the fuel pump sock and the filter in the engine bay.
Just replace that filter and check the fuel rail for grot.
You could just wash the fuel tank out and use it as it is. Most 21 year old cars would have tanks looking like that, and run ok.
ts370000
27-06-2015, 06:42 PM
Both tanks I have dropped and checked (KR and TS) have been sparkling clean. Haven't checked the third one yet. That did surprise me given the 'horror' stories I read before checking. Did you cheack the sender unit?
Rinse it out with kero. Pour in a liter of metho to soak up any water and swirl around and let stand overnight and pour it out. Check for pin holes and patch with araldite if necessary. Use tank till you come across a good one.
Injectors It made a big difference to me to put a set of clean ones in.
A quick cheap way to clean them is to soak in acetone overnight. Leave pintle caps on and either make an extractor as I outlined elsewhere take baskets out and clean them or leave the baskets in place. Use a 3v battery to activate the injectors while clamping a mains pressure hose on and flow water through. That'll, with the acetone soak, will wash off most varnish build up. After, with a large syringe from the chemist (45c) and a bit of hose push through some/kero/meth/thinners to wash water out and put in some drops of macine oil to keep till install. You'll likely only need to be concerned about rusty or leaking injectors. The o-rings are likely ok but worth replacing. The rubber ring at the top : inspect. again likely ok. Same with the lower rectangular section ring. Just clean and replace with a bit of oil where they slot into the head and rail.
That simple cheap tank injector restore will tell you a lot about how worth it is to continue. I find patience while finding/waiting for parts most important on a budget.
Be sparing with the quick start spray. It can damage sensors.
edit add :
There are a couple of injector types, a grey/white top and a yellow top. Both work ok. I haven't mixed my sets, don't know if it matters. They are high impedense N210H . I think the H stands for high impedence (check with (clean connectors) multimeter) and 210 cc per minute flow rate. (N nippon?) Dont soak any of the orings seals in acetone, they'll disintegrate. Baskets are ok I found but I did extract them and clean separately and blew them clean with press air. See the ts advance fule system topic for more info. on making extractor and a test rig.
edelbrock1
29-06-2015, 03:58 PM
Thanks guys. Awesome info.
Looks like I have another tank lined up. (a freebie :) ) So I will bang that in and hope for the best.
Stay tuned!!
magna buff
29-06-2015, 07:07 PM
whats with the windscreen .........
i missed that before
in the picture on the car trailer
is it a photo angle reflection or is that a real hole and cracks
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