I need to replace the Dizzy O ring but do you think I can get the Distributor out?

What Am I missing? - I've removed leads, cap, etc and then undone both of the nuts that hold it in but no amount of levering heaving - even trying to split it off the engine by tapping a screwdriver into the joint between the dizzy and engine even looks like budging it.

What have not undone?

Doesn't sound like you've missed anything. They can be tight as a nun's... well, they can be tight! If you can get both hands on it and sort of twist it one way then the other a bit eventually it should work loose (leaving the cap on might give you a better purchase on it). The first time I did this it took much sweating and swearing but eventually there was a big enough gap to be able to (carefully and evenly) lever it out with a screwdriver while twisting back and forth. When you do get it out be sure to clean up the mating surfaces with a steelo pad or something like it and give them a smear of oil, it should make it easier to install and remove next time.

I even trying to split it off the engine by tapping a screwdriver into the joint between the dizzy and engine even looks like budging it.



That's how I got mine off.

Do you have instructions on how to refit it? If the engine is at No 1 TDC the rotor points down to about 4 oclock as I recall. I mention this because its a 'double ended' rotor (for want of a better term) and you may think thats its pointing upwards unless you look closely.

OK got it off - BLEEEP! - ended up improvising a sort of sliding hammer arrangement hooked into the slotted side bolt area and pounding the (*&^ out of it until it cracked, then was easy enough to twist it out.

The O ring was as flat and hard as anything, fell into 3 pieces as I tried to prise it off.

There was a lot of varnish on the shaft so cleaned that off and reinstalled with a coat of anti-seize for next time..... So glad I number the plug leads before removal as they were everywhere after all that farting around.

alchemysa the dizzy shaft is keyed so can only go back on one way, and the rotor shaft too is keyed so the rotor can only go on one way too. no nead to worry about where the engine is positioned re #1

and the rotor shaft too is keyed so the rotor can only go on one way too. no nead to worry about where the engine is positioned re #1

I agree it doesnt really matter where the engine is positioned because the camshaft has a keyway anyway. But the dizzy shaft can be accidently rotated 180 degrees. That's why the manual says at TDC the groove in the dizzy body should align with the notch in the rotor key. You don't HAVE to do it at TDC but if not you need to make sure the rotor is facing the same way as you removed it.

Anyway it sounds like it went well.

I had same issue on the TW. badly varnished up, which is most likely what made it hard. I made sure I cleaned that off on the dizzy and in the head to get a good seal and maybe next time not so bad. I think I had some paint thinner at the time, forget what I used now

...But the dizzy shaft can be accidently rotated 180 degrees...

That will generally only be if something is worn. The slot is a bit off centre, so there is only one correct way to re-fit. Wobbling the rotor as the dizzy is being drifted back in allows you to feel if it's properly engaged. Having said that, taking note of positions of things prior to removal is always worth doing in my experience.