Hay all
I know there has been a bit on this already but I thought Id ask the question again
I have a shudder comes in when Im driving gently in 50 zones as you do
1000 rpm gently accelerating through 50 klm to 60 around the 55 klm mark 4th gear
I have read using a bit more aggressive style works which it does but there are areas around home where i cant do this lots of roundabouts built up suburbia Ive been driving more aggressively to teach the box but I still insists on changing into 4th in these situations does not do it down shifting and I can get it to do it in manual mode also same scenario
I have changed to fluid genuine fluid used
some say resetting to auto by disconnecting the negative for 30 mins the follow the relearning procedure may work but then ive read the auto memory cant be erased without the mut 111 thing
is this normal or Is it time to go to my Mitsubishi dealer I guess they can check if the 4th gear shift point is correct
any advise or previous experience with this is greatly appreciated

I know exactly the symptom you describe.
It only does it with gentle throttle doesn't it?

Mal (Madmagna, Mitsfix) recommends this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU

Go to a dealer, pay them a hundred bucks, or whatever, to wack a MUT3 on and tell them to reset the learned values of the transmission.

Make sure they know how to do it, not the engine misfire etc values, the transmission values, be specific.

The 3rd to 4th gear transition is a special one in the box...lotsa stuff happens on 3-4th gear.

I bet it will fix it.

Mal (Madmagna, Mitsfix) recommends this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Lubegard-19610-Tranny-Instant-Shudder/dp/B0002JMLQU


Where can it be purchased ?.

The problem you describe can be fixed. You have to flush your transmission till it comes out clean. It means you go through a bit of tranny oil and it is expensive but trust me it will fix your problem. Just changing the oil will not fix your problem.

I think a shudder could be a transmission issue, or it could be engine timing or fuel system related too. I think it makes sense to take it to a good mechanic rather than just trying things by guessing. The mechanic has specialist knowledge about the details of the components and likely causes and can make a proper assessment.

Obviously if the ATF is looking brown/black or darker than it should, or smelling burnt, then flushing the ATF would be a very good idea. You can try doing quick, cheap and simple maintenance to see if that solves the problem, for example recently I had the ignition leads and plugs swapped out while I'm fault tracing something on my car (they were practically due anyway) but its going to get pretty expensive to continue with that approach once the simple things are done.

The friction additive (shudder fix) might reveal where the problem is, i.e.: if the shudder stops then its likely a transmision related problem. But I would only use that as a diagnostic aid or a quick fix pending a full ATF flush and/or follow up with a transmission specialist. Its not a long term fix and just masks the problem.

Unless the mechanic has a MUT3 then it would be a complete and utter waste of time.

With the MUT3 you can see the sensor outputs in real time, the rpm of input and output shafts in real time etc etc etc.

Without it its all bulldust and guessing...diagnosis by substitution is an expensive way to fix things....even if it's changing the oil that most of the people on this forum seem to be obsessed with.

Unless the mechanic has a MUT3 then it would be a complete and utter waste of time---
---Without it its all bulldust and guessing...diagnosis by substitution is an expensive way to fix things....even if it's changing the oil that most of the people on this forum seem to be obsessed with.
Is not so simple as that. The. computer may reveal issues, and it may not. Depends on the nature of the problem. Sure, by all means lets check it, but experience can also provide a valid course of action too. We know, for example, that these transmissions can exhibit poor performance and problems if the maintenance is not kept up. So we should also bring the maintenance back up to spec as part of the fault tracing. Oil is something that can be done quickly and easily and should be done anyway, especially when its looking very tired.

Is not so simple as that. The. computer may reveal issues, and it may not. Depends on the nature of the problem. Sure, by all means lets check it, but experience can also provide a valid course of action too. We know, for example, that these transmissions can exhibit poor performance and problems if the maintenance is not kept up. So we should also bring the maintenance back up to spec as part of the fault tracing. Oil is something that can be done quickly and easily and should be done anyway, especially when its looking very tired.

I'm sorry, but I wouldn't touch anything without scanning for codes.

Resetting the learned codes fixes a lot of issues that appear as "problems", as per my original advice.

If something proves to be wrong then you would be replacing the fluid twice...why do it?

Also...I notice you have a Magna, the 380 ECU diagnostics yield a lot more than on a Magna.

---Also...I notice you have a Magna, the 380 ECU diagnostics yield a lot more than on a Magna.
I didn't know that. I've often wished the Verada had more sensors.
I hope the OP can get the codes read ASAP and let us know what he finds.

I didn't know that. I've often wished the Verada had more sensors.
I hope the OP can get the codes read ASAP and let us know what he finds.

Yep...as long as it is with a mut3, because generic codes misdiagnose most auto issues with a 380....for example a mismatch between 3rd to 4th and input shaft sensors will be misdiagnosed as an over temperature fault on a 20 dollar OBD reader.

Unless the mechanic has a MUT3 then it would be a complete and utter waste of time.

With the MUT3 you can see the sensor outputs in real time, the rpm of input and output shafts in real time etc etc etc.

Without it its all bulldust and guessing...diagnosis by substitution is an expensive way to fix things....even if it's changing the oil that most of the people on this forum seem to be obsessed with.

Sure, Obsessed with because FLUID GETS FILTHY, classic example, 1 customer in Albury went to local dealer to get shudder looked at, they advised him that the fluid was dirty and tried to advise him needed new trans as fluid can not be flushed. he came to us, we flushed transmission, drove like a new car. When I state flush, I mean proper flush not dump and fill.

Sure, trans reset MAY fix some issues, 95% of the 380's that come in to us have black transmission fluid due to not being changed and a good flush generally fixes most of these issues.

I didn't know that. I've often wished the Verada had more sensors.
I hope the OP can get the codes read ASAP and let us know what he finds.

The Verada has the EXACT same sensors as the 380. Input shaft, output shaft and inhibitor switch with temp sensor internally.

The 380 TCU logs more information but that is all about it. Reading codes from a 380 will not help the Verada sadly

My issue with the transmission was fixed buy flushing the fluid untill it presented completely clean
I had taken it to a transmission specialist who flushed the tranny but only once no way near enough
I did it myself the fluid was in a very poor state
First time using a dump and fill style
Second flush after 20k as per the manual 3.5 out of the cooler line or 1 min which ever is first and the rest out of the box
The fluid condition from the second flush was good so I think a quick flush every 20k will do
Currently the transmission is preforming very well

Also my local dealer checked for any fault codes
Nothing

My issue with the transmission was fixed buy flushing the fluid untill it presented completely clean
I had taken it to a transmission specialist who flushed the tranny but only once no way near enough
I did it myself the fluid was in a very poor state
First time using a dump and fill style
Second flush after 20k as per the manual 3.5 out of the cooler line or 1 min which ever is first and the rest out of the box
The fluid condition from the second flush was good so I think a quick flush every 20k will do
Currently the transmission is preforming very well
Good news! I'm glad it was an easy fix.

Mal ..... 1
MUT-3 ..... 0

Mal ..... 1
MUT-3 ..... 0

Just wait a while.

Sure, Obsessed with because FLUID GETS FILTHY, classic example, 1 customer in Albury went to local dealer to get shudder looked at, they advised him that the fluid was dirty and tried to advise him needed new trans as fluid can not be flushed. he came to us, we flushed transmission, drove like a new car. When I state flush, I mean proper flush not dump and fill.

Sure, trans reset MAY fix some issues, 95% of the 380's that come in to us have black transmission fluid due to not being changed and a good flush generally fixes most of these issues.

Yeah sure...but you have a MUT tool to check for codes first.

Simply saying check for codes before flushing else a flush may be a waste of time.

Surely you agree with that logic....a flush isn't cheap.

Just wait a while.

For what? The issue is fixed I thought.

Mitsi normally charge to read the fault codes last time I asked.

For what? The issue is fixed I thought.

Mitsi normally charge to read the fault codes last time I asked.

Normally the local charge $140 but I have done a bit of business with them over the years so it was free
They also cleared the transmissions learned behaviour
I took them a while to work out to do this
They ended up ringing around other dealers for the info lol

Yeah sure...but you have a MUT tool to check for codes first.

Simply saying check for codes before flushing else a flush may be a waste of time.

Surely you agree with that logic....a flush isn't cheap.

When a tyre has a big nail through it and it is losing air, it is a puncture, it is not a leaking valve. I would remove the nail, fix the puncture and then re inflate

When a 380 comes in, is either shuddering or similar, I will check the fluid, I will also of course while on the hoist check shafts, joints and anything else that could cause the shudder. Will get the customer to take me for a drive so they can replicate the shudder. While checking, if the fluid is black then it needs changing. Is as simple as that. I dont care if the car has only done 60k, if the fluid is black, then it is black. I have had so many people who have commented after a flush about how much better the trasn feels on shifting etc after a flush.

Normally the local charge $140 but I have done a bit of business with them over the years so it was free
They also cleared the transmissions learned behaviour
I took them a while to work out to do this
They ended up ringing around other dealers for the info lol

Yea the issue is not all people know their dealer, so they normally charge to do diagnostics on the car. Zilo was throwing the solution around like it was the be all fix for the problem and cost nothing.


When a tyre has a big nail through it and it is losing air, it is a puncture, it is not a leaking valve. I would remove the nail, fix the puncture and then re inflate

When a 380 comes in, is either shuddering or similar, I will check the fluid, I will also of course while on the hoist check shafts, joints and anything else that could cause the shudder. Will get the customer to take me for a drive so they can replicate the shudder. While checking, if the fluid is black then it needs changing. Is as simple as that. I dont care if the car has only done 60k, if the fluid is black, then it is black. I have had so many people who have commented after a flush about how much better the trasn feels on shifting etc after a flush.

Think you're wasting your time on this one Mal. Zilo is never wrong.

Think you're wasting your time on this one Mal. Zilo is never wrong.

Oops, sorry forgot about that, yes, you are right, the people who work on his car are never wrong

Yea the issue is not all people know their dealer, so they normally charge to do diagnostics on the car. Zilo was throwing the solution around like it was the be all fix for the problem and cost nothing.



Think you're wasting your time on this one Mal. Zilo is never wrong.


Neo...you twist and squirm a lot like a prepubescient schoolgirl.

I don't recall saying reading codes was free...but that's just you crapping on and sucking up to Malcolm....might get you a free flush eh?

So...the dealer didn't know about it, and had to call for support eh?

Guess that makes me never wrong now doesn't it.

Oh..and we cleared the codes and flushed the transmission...guess we'll never know what fixed it.

Somebody pull flyboy out of Malcolm's trouser fronts and tell him would you please?

So now that is over, how is this transmission running

In my case the process of elimination was followed
The first place we started was the transmission specialist
Unfortunately they didn't do the job properly
After checking drive train wheel balance mounts code and erasing learned behaviour noone seemed able to find the problem may mechanic seggested I should check the condition of my fluid when I dumped it it was filth so I did it myself
Clearly the Transmission place had not flushed and only dumped once
15lt went through my transmission and the first drive after this the problem was gone
I was lucky as all investigation was done under warranty
The car is driving great 2nd change was done after 15k and fluid was good
Checked fluid buy sampling 100ml at 20k and still pink and clean
Transmission temp is constant at 88 to 92 degree c
Its been said before and I will say it also
380 owners look after your transmission fluid
Its easy to flush get the manual for 10 bucks and do it every 40k as a minimum
Use only genuine fluid its not dear 48 bucks
I will be doing mine every 20k probably over kill but for 50 bucks why not
I made up some extension hoses which i just plug into the transmission cooler lines which make the flushing nice easy and clean along with a container with exactly 3.5lt marked on it
Moral of the story
Learn about your car trust noone elses work get second and third opinions
Find a good mechanic like good doctors they are hard to find stick with them establish a relationship
" Be careful whose advice you buy but be patient with those who supply it
Advice is a form of nostalgia, dispensing it is a way of fishing the past
From the disposal, wiping it off, painting over the ulgy parts
And recycling it for more than its worth "
Baz Luhrmann
There is so much hate and deciet in the world
The media is lying to us brainwashing us keeping us in fear just look at alternative news media find out what's really going on
The government is passing laws that take away the freedoms we have taken for granted in this great country and we are so oblivious to this sitting brain dead in front of a box telling us what to buy how to act and who today is going to attack us and we lap it up
Open your eyes and free your mind somthing is happening
This squabbling from thread to thread is sad you guys are better than this