First time post on here after reading through the site for quite a while. Anyhow I currently own a Tj Vrx Series 2 5spd Tippy in Wasp Yellow and have recently had 380 Cams put in and a 380 Manifold modified and fitted and a Ralliart tune flashed onto the computer. More than happy with the results for the coin spent but am looking to have it tuned to run on 98 and take advantage of my mods which the ralliart tune doesnt to its full extent. Based in Brisbane and am having trouble finding someone to do it and i dont really want to spend one third of the cars value on dyno time with someone who has no experience with Magnas. The mechanic who did the work and flashed the ralliart tune was nice enough to give me a copy of my ecu bin file which i have on the computer and he's happy to flash it back if someone else was able to tune the file to whats needed. So does anyone know of anyone in Brisbane who could do it or the other option from what i have read is to do a postal tune via SKR.

Cheers

Mark

I think you would be wasting your money to be honest, there's very little gains to be had running a 98 RON tune on a 6G74 with 9:1 compression ratio.
Different story with the 6G75s as they have a 10:1 compression ratio so theres some handy gains to be had on a 98 RON tune with those motors.

Next Up Performance
Shop 9
115 Dollis Street
Rocklea Queensland 4106
Rocklea 0438 383 876

Specialize in performance ECU tuning & they have a rolling AWD dyno.
They've done a few magnas now including Jeff Hackett's old Magna 6G75 Willowbank special.

I'm guessing it was just the ignition map that was changed not the whole tune? Was it done my Mal seeing as you had the cams and manifold done at the same time?

If so, the ralliart tune already has some extra spark, although not a huge amount enough to give it a bit more pep. Having said that, the manual ralliarts had a bit more spark advance on top of the auto ralliarts as well.

Most of the gains with these engines can be found on the fuel map, leaning up the top end a bit can find nice gains because these cars were designed to be very safe from factory (read, tuned to be rich). Any dyno printouts with AFR logged you will see that when it gets rich the power drops right off.

Car was done at TTR in Slacks Creek Brisbane and as far as I know he only copied the ralliart spark over and that was it. He has the ability to reflash an ecu but not to tune it correctly as he doesn't have a dyno. Just looking for someone to tweak it a bit becuase yea there's only a small gain but a few small gains add up to one good one.

Cheer

Mark

Car was done at TTR in Slacks Creek Brisbane and as far as I know he only copied the ralliart spark over and that was it. He has the ability to reflash an ecu but not to tune it correctly as he doesn't have a dyno. Just looking for someone to tweak it a bit becuase yea there's only a small gain but a few small gains add up to one good one.

Cheer

Mark

Do you know if he used a ralliart auto or manual map?

The manual one is a bit more aggressive.

Yep, while ralliart map does have more aggressive spark it is still nonetheless 91 octane map. Probably the cheapest solution would be to get 98 octane map and get TTR to upload it, few people in Sydney will be able to provide one, PM me if interested.

Pretty sure TTR would have 98 octane maps for a 6G74 anyway.
They put a 98 octane ECU flash on my magna when I did the 6G75 conversion through them last year.

Yeah he has a 98 map buy it was off a manual and wouldn't play nicely with my tcl on the auto apparently.

Cheers

Mark

Yeah he has a 98 map buy it was off a manual and wouldn't play nicely with my tcl on the auto apparently.

Cheers

Mark

lol what the, if he's just changing the map over it wouldn't touch any of the other parameters of your ECU. Copy / pasting maps is easy between roms.

Andrei is right about the ralliart maps still being compatible with 91. They are still pretty safe maps for people that may put 91 in their ralliarts without knowing that 95ron or higher is recommended.

Drop me a PM with your email address if you want some more details ;)

Hmmm... I thought he had that sorted for the autos by now.
Last year, we experimented with an aggressive 98 flash used for stock 6G75 motors in time attack comps after I had the G75 done but same deal, because it was a 256K ROM definition for a manual, the auto was erratic & I had to use Tippy mode to get it to behave somewhat. Pity, as it was noticeably sprukier.
We ended up having to re-flash the original 98 RON definition back in. Guys at TTR did say that they were going to get some ECU guru to do a 512k ROM definition of the more aggressive version so it could be used in autos.

I'll have to chase them up & see that's going.

Hmmm... I thought he had that sorted for the autos by now.
Last year, we experimented with an aggressive 98 flash used for stock 6G75 motors in time attack comps after I had the G75 done but same deal, because it was a 256K ROM definition for a manual, the auto was erratic & I had to use Tippy mode to get it to behave somewhat. Pity, as it was noticeably sprukier.
We ended up having to re-flash the original 98 RON definition back in. Guys at TTR did say that they were going to get some ECU guru to do a 512k ROM definition of the more aggressive version so it could be used in autos.

I'll have to chase them up & see that's going.

Do they do much editing of the roms or just mainly downloading and uploading them? It's easy to just copy/paste maps between roms if they're using ecuflash. Not to mention rescaling the maps for calculation of higher load values, etc.

No, just downloading & uploading. As mentioned before, TTR don't have a dyno & from what I gathered talking with them, they use someone external to do their ECU ROM definitions/editing.

There's actually not much additional value in running the Ralliart auto ROM in an a AWD - it is actually easy to do in a J series AWD and I have posted about it elsewhere. While there are small differences in the WOT upshift speed, there didn't appear to be significant difference between the actual shift control parameters and I couldn't tell the difference between the two sets of shift calibrations in my car.

So far I don't think it is practical to run a J series automatic ROM in any L/W automatic; the deletion of the output shaft sensor has noticeably changed the way the code gets the same info.