View Full Version : Front engine mount - TP efi auto i is this normal?
coldamus
25-06-2015, 01:11 PM
Since fitting new driveshafts to my TP, I've had a vibration problem when accelerating. It seems to be getting worse. I've checked the driveshafts and can't find anything wrong, so am looking at other possible causes: engine mounts, engine misfire under load or transmission judder. I hope it is not the latter because that would be the last straw.
Anyway, I'm working through the engine mounts. I removed, sikaflexed and replaced the passenger side mount. It wasn't bad anyway. I removed the engine damper (shock absorber thingy) and found that its hydraulics were fine but the rubber of the bottom eyelet was cactus. I sikaflexed that too and re-fitted it but the vibration remains. I've just now removed the front engine mount (the one that the bottom of the engine damper connects to. I had great trouble undoing the through bolt as it was incredibly tight.
I was shocked to find that the through bolt is only 9mm but the inside diameter of the bush in the centre of the mount is 16.5 mm. Is that normal ? I'd like to post a picture but can't ftp to my web site at present.
I notice that the ends of the bush are serrated, so perhaps the bush is clamped securely to the bracket by tightening of the through bolt. That seems a dodgy arrangement to me but might explain why it was done up so tight. Can anyone confirm that is the way it is supposed to work or should there be another bush between the bolt and the mount?
ts370000
25-06-2015, 01:19 PM
I was also puzzled with that one and reasoned as you do. I shrugged and just accepted it.
I'm interested in this sikaflexing. Which sikaflex product and where from? How do you use it?
coldamus
25-06-2015, 02:34 PM
Thanks for confirming that. Sikaflex 252 is the best. It comes in a standard size 300ml tube for use with caulking guns. Current price at Bunnings is $31.48 per tube. Be careful to get the black variety because it also comes in white. Both tubes are black and look the same but somewhere on the tube or packaging it will state the colour of the contents. Both work equally well but I accidentally bought white on the previous occasion and had to disguise it by spraying with black paint. Don't be tempted to use one of the cheaper all-purpose sealants. Sikaflex 252 is as strong as the original rubber once cured. It also bonds well to the existing rubber.
Just use a caulking gun to fill the whole diameter and thickness of the engine mount, except for the centre bush. Use mineral turpentine wiped on with a finger to smooth the outer surface. It is messy stuff, so worth investing in a pack of disposable kitchen gloves. Otherwise it will be a week or two before you have clean hands. It can be cleaned off with acetone as a solvent. Leave in the sun to dry and cure. It it usually touchable within 12 hours or so but I always leave at least a couple of days before refitting the mounts and putting them into use. There's enough in a 300ml tube to do 3 or 4 mounts.
Edit: Try to do as many as you can at the same time because a partly used tube of Sikaflex becomes too stiff to use within a week or two, as I just discovered. That's annoying because it is so expensive.
magna buff
25-06-2015, 03:56 PM
I always used a bolt that was 14 mm nut and bolt head
the correct bolt is pointed so it is easier to slide and align out to the nut side
that bolt cant be the same size as the mount holes ..no movement to get the bolt through the lot
had a flat washer and a spring / or a metal lock nut / or the nut with its own washer type
#
the shock absorber is the same as the ones fitted to second gen V6 automatic cars (at the back of the motor )
Coldy
I can give you a full set of new first gen mounts for just the postage -- i can get you the all up weight
- over night bag if you need .... brissy to nsw -
magna buff
25-06-2015, 04:15 PM
my experience
as the sikafkex 252 hardens with age/ air /and heat...... the vibrations will return
note # some mechanics will call a sikaflexed mount a defect
works on the smaller mounts of first and second gens 4 and V6
not for the gearbox or engine ... never for a third gen
I got two years out of my mounts filling busted ones with Sikaflex 252
I waited 3 days for the curing
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26803&highlight=
turbo charade. did this write up in 2005..pictures lost it was for his turbo charade mounts ..
How to make a solid engine mount
Step 1
Remove mount from car and clean the rubber as best you can.
Step 2
Tape up one side of the mount so that the poly-urethane has a mould to keep it from spilling out.
Step 3
Make sure its going to be poly-urethan tight and get the tube ready
Step 4
Fill the hollow parts of the mount as best possible. The less air bubbles the better so fill it from the bottom up. Once its full run your finger around the top to make an attractive surface. After an hour dip your finger in dish washing liquid and rub the untaped surface smooth without breaking the skin
Finnished product
You should end up with a tidy looking mount. After at least 14 hours the tape can be removed from the other side.
coldamus
26-06-2015, 07:38 AM
Sorry about the delay in responding. I had to crash early last night. Magna buff, I will send you a PM.
Yes, the head and nut of the through-bolt are 14mm. I measured the shaft as 9mm diameter. Mine had no washers on it but I will use flat and spring washers when re-fitting it. I'm going to also take the mount off my carby sedan to compare. The factory manual mentions and illustrates a "mounting stopper plate" and I don't have a clue what they are talking about.
dennystone 12
26-06-2015, 08:32 AM
Is the stopper plate the thing made from sheet metal, maybe to keep those rubber plates in place?
coldamus
26-06-2015, 09:34 AM
Is the stopper plate the thing made from sheet metal, maybe to keep those rubber plates in place?
No. This is the mount on the side of the engine facing the front of the car. (the exhaust side) It doesn't have rubber plates like the passenger side main engine mount and the driver side transmission mount. This is the section from the manual. I've edited it to reduce the size by removing paragraph (b) that only related to the heat shield:
http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/STOPPER.JPG
I don't see any stopper plate on mine but it may be attached to the bracket, which is still on the engine. The removal instructions said to remove the bracket from the engine but I was able to get
the mount out quite easily without undoing the bracket. I will know more once I've checked the one on my carby sedan.
Edit: I think the stopper plates are already bolted to the inside of the bracket on both cars. It is hard to relate to the diagram above because I can only see them "end on" without removing the bracket and unbolting the plates. The brackets would be a pain to get off and I'm not that curious.
magna buff
26-06-2015, 10:12 PM
only rubber ones I have seen fitted were each side
of the engine and gearbox mounts ..same size diameter as the large mounts
these over time are likely to have been tossed away
If there were rubber covers on all my first gens smaller mounts
they were tossed by previous owners ..haven t seen one to know what it looks like
I forget if the shock has its own plate to cover something
also there is another plate covering the oil sender unit
thanks coldy we will get it sorted by next week
dennystone 12
27-06-2015, 04:45 AM
No. This is the mount on the side of the engine facing the front of the car. (the exhaust side) It doesn't have rubber plates like the passenger side main engine mount and the driver side transmission mount. This is the section from the manual. I've edited it to reduce the size by removing paragraph (b) that only related to the heat shield:
http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/STOPPER.JPG
I don't see any stopper plate on mine but it may be attached to the bracket, which is still on the engine. The removal instructions said to remove the bracket from the engine but I was able to get
the mount out quite easily without undoing the bracket. I will know more once I've checked the one on my carby sedan.
Edit: I think the stopper plates are already bolted to the inside of the bracket on both cars. It is hard to relate to the diagram above because I can only see them "end on" without removing the bracket and unbolting the plates. The brackets would be a pain to get off and I'm not that curious.
Ah, that's right, I was thinking about the shield
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