Boys and girls, do not try this at home.

I needed to replace a mount, in this case the right hand transmission mount of an efi auto TP sedan. Price of a mount with the metal bracket included is prohibitive but mount inserts alone sell for a more reasonable $40 to $160 depending on brand and place of purchase. They're all aftermarket now.

Normally one would buy a new mount insert, remove the mount bracket with old mount from the car and take both to a mechanical workshop that has an hydraulic press. For a fee, they will press out the old insert and press in the new one for you.

I can't do that because of my location. If I removed a mount, I wouldn't have transport. I could go to the nearest town by train but would have to stay overnight as there's no return train on the same day. Fortunately I also have a TP wagon as a parts car. So, although it involved twice the work, I decided to take the corresponding mount off the wagon, drive to the nearest town and have the new insert pressed into it, then return home and fit the wagon's mount into the sedan and vice versa.

I removed the mount from the wagon easily enough and then remembered that many years before I had replaced the mount insert in my TM sedan by cutting out the old insert and pressing in the new one myself. Unfortunately time had dimmed my memory of the pain and suffering. I decided to do the same again and save myself a trip.

First I drilled out most of the rubber from the centre of the mount and removed the bush. That was easy. I should have taken photos before I started but the original factory mount insert has an insert inserted in the insert. No kidding, the central 70mm including the rubber mount and bush is actually another insert that is press fitted inside a metal ring and surrounded by a few more mm of rubber and then the outer ring of the insert as a whole. Consequently I had to cut through three metal rings to get the whole insert out. Aftermarket inserts only have a single metal ring on their outside.

Here's the wreckage after I'd finished.
http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/SCRAPS.JPG

The rings are made of very hard metal. It feels like spring steel. I alternated between a conventional hacksaw and one with a tungsten carbide blade but cutting them was still very hard work. The outer ring was the most difficult because I had to be careful not to cut into the mount bracket. There is tension on the rings even after cutting them so I found it necessary to cut them almost completely in half. Even so, I had to use a cold chisel and hammer to finally get the outer ring out.

This is the bare bracket before cleaning up and repainting it.
http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/BRACKET.JPG

Doing it this way is too much hard work so I highly recommend having the insert pressed out. Whichever way you do it, please note that, at least for the RH (transmission) mount, the insert should be pressed out of the bracket from front to back and the new one pressed in from back to front. Otherwise the inserts will snag on the captive nut welded to the bracket (at left centre of above pic.).

in Engine mount removals
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090&p=775258#post775258


Pedders charged me $80 for pressing... out an old and in with a new a TP engine mount

manager told me not to come back ... took hours he said .

that mounts rubber seperated from the metal about 3 months later

in Engine mount removals
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40090&p=775258#post775258

Thanks for writing that up.



Pedders charged me $80 for pressing... out an old and in with a new a TP engine mount

manager told me not to come back ... took hours he said .

that mounts rubber seperated from the metal about 3 months later

I thought it might be tough even with a press because the press tool would have to precisely match the size of the outer band of the insert.

I intended, after drilling away some of the rubber and removing the bush from the old insert, to use the new insert (protected by a piece of hardwood with a hole for the bush) as a mandrel to push out the old insert. That wasn't possible because the captive nut gets in the way. In any case, the new insert turned out to be the wrong size so didn't match up with the rim of the old one. That left me with the hacksaw method as the only alternative. It took about 7 hours altogether, mainly due to not having a big enough vyce or decent workbench.

Would it not be easier to take the old mount, keep it as it is, and inject a lot of that nice black sikaflex into it?

that mounts rubber seperated from the metal about 3 months later

Probably because the original has the rubber cast into it with all the metal bits in place, while pressing a new one in separates the rubber to the metal bonding?
Just a guess.

Would it not be easier to take the old mount, keep it as it is, and inject a lot of that nice black sikaflex into it?

Yes it would and I have decided to do that with the mount currently on the sedan rather than substituting this one. I have more faith in a Sikaflexed original than an aftermarket insert. Legality from a roadworthiness point of view is another matter. I also need to fix this mount sufficiently to keep the wagon moveable.

This sounds like we need a thread on how to build your own press.
I made one from some bits of channel iron about 6 inch x 2 inch. Welded two end pieces about 12 inch long on to another piece about4 foot long. In the centre approx of the long piece, I welded some pipe with support cleats and use a 5 tonne hydraulic jack to do the pressing. This press needs lots of bits of steel to pack everything up depending what is being worked on. I find it useful for all sorts of items; water pump impellers/seals/; electric motor rotor bearings, etc etc.
I might only use it once or twice a year, but the job it does is fabulous. I also use my bench vyce for smaller items. Usually, having the press is just SO convenient and work is done very quickly. I have box with all sorts of pullers too; there must be at least a dozen or more pullers. The other thing I have plenty of is old bearings and bits of waterpipe fittings to use as dollys to rest on the part being pressed.
mostly I use the welder to set up a new puller. Very rarely do I use the lathe to make a special puller part.
The press I have failed me on only one occasion when I tried to take a wheel bearing off the axle of my Leyland 253 tractor. The hydraulic jack just couldn't cut the mustard, but the axle shaft was typically pommie; oversized but unbreakable; the axle is about 65 mm diameter. A huge piece of stick!
My experience tells me that sometimes it takes longer to set up the tools to do a job than the job itself.
I saw a chap at a tyre place, trying to separate some rubber mount at the rear suspension of a Holden. A lot of energy, hammering, sawing, destruction of the mount to get it out and I was not clear how he would get the new mount back into position.
Here endeth the lesson!!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-10-Ton-Hydraulic-Press/

6 steps to do it
and a PDF



yes I built my own press in 2007 second hand steel and lots of welding

box steel welded and braced / head height/ self standing/also portable

did everything needed for the first and second gen 4 cyl even front struts spring compression function


I dumped it this year