Well where to begin. My mum has owned this tj magna auto for the past 8 years. she has just had a new auto transmission replaced as the old one screed itself. it ran fine afterwards. Anyways it was idling rough on startup in cold weather (cant remember if it was doing it before the auto trans replacement) but the idle goes up to 900ish rpm then drops and just about stall then goes back up and just repeats. it used to be once it had gone up to running temp it would be fine. just recently it had started doing the same thing until you hold the revs at 1200ish hot or cold. the other day the mother said it had been getting worse so i took it for a few laps around the block. it drove not to bad for a few mins then when stopped in drive it would shake heaps, almost seemed like the clutch was grabbing a little bit. another minute or so went by and i was turning at a roundabout and the car just cut off and the power steer cut out and almost sent me into a gutter. on the way back home it cut of 2 more times while driving aswell as every time i stopped at a intersection.
this might sound really broad to you guys but this is as detailed as i can get. the k's are at about 226k. just replaced fuel filter air filter and front bank spark plugs and still runs the same (haven't driven it sine the last drive though)
Thanks for any help in advance. :)

I'm not going to try and pretend i know what's going on here, lot of variables. If the trans has been out it might pay to check all harnesses , vacuum hoses , air cleaner assemby piping clamps, there's also a small hose that plugs into the intake piping as well, MAF connector etc. Thinking massive air leak somewhere?

Also a bad transmission can load the engine up. Hope that's not the case but just before my trans died the TC was not releasing and was dragging the engine rpm down whilst the ECU tried very hard to step the idle up to compensate.

Also may pay to have a look at the throttle body butterfly and see if it's choked up with oil etc

It'll be the Idle Air Control / Stepper Motor, at least it's the exact same symptoms the Magna I'm working on had, luckily, it's an easy/cheap fix :D

You'll have to take off the upper airfilter assembly, so from the airfilter to the throttlebody (a total of 1 Philips head screw and 2 clips).

Then underneath the throttlebody you'll see an electrical connection, that'll be it. Disconnect the plug, undo the 2 phillips head screws (make sure you mark or take a photo of the orientation. The O-Ring is probably perished you can use a Silicone/RTV to fill the inner-cavity after, but before that, mash the absolute hell out of everything in there (may as well do throttlebody too) with brake cleaner or throttlebody cleaner, you'll need a stiff bristle brush/toothbrush to really clean it out, keep spraying and using a rag to wipe out the black liquid until it stays clear. Give it 5 minutes so the solvent evaporates, plug everything back together (don't forget electrical on the idle motor & Maf sensor on airbox) and that should do it.

Where abouts are you in SA, I might be able to come help if you need it.

Okay so pregress report. just went out and took air filter assembly off (the maf and other connector were both on correctly) i took that little bit off and it was quite gunked up, i dont have any carbi cleaner handy so i just cleaned it with a clean rag, the visable part of the butterfly valve was clean but the back side was quite oily also. i have cleaned both parts with a rag and re assembled. its very cold outside at the moment and it hasnt been started in 2 weeks and it started straight up and did the rough idle again, but after about 150 second of holding it at 1200ish rpm and letting go it was idling pretty good, no elevating. once every 1 or two seconds i ever so slightly feel/hear a drop but barely. and also the o ring seemed to be good, no perishing or cracking but was a tiny bit out of round (or are they supposed to be like this?)maybe from just being in there a long time? I dont drive yet so ill have to wait until the mother can go down to supercheap or something to get some carbi cleaner and clean the above mentioned parts. thats all the input i have for now, i will update when i get a hold of some carbi cleaner.

Okay wasnt long but got some bad news. got it running almost perfect but giving it a little (throttle) to clean shit out. mother came home so she said lets take it around the block to see and we didnt even make it out the driveway (reverse) before it konked out..any more suggestions?

Okay wasnt long but got some bad news. got it running almost perfect but giving it a little (throttle) to clean shit out. mother came home so she said lets take it around the block to see and we didnt even make it out the driveway (reverse) before it konked out..any more suggestions?

with the car in neutral and idling if you put the a/c on or turn the wheel whilst stationary enough to start loading up the P/S pump does the idle remain steady, rise aver so slightly with laod or just die or drop low?

Okay wasnt long but got some bad news. got it running almost perfect but giving it a little (throttle) to clean shit out. mother came home so she said lets take it around the block to see and we didnt even make it out the driveway (reverse) before it konked out..any more suggestions?

What's it idle at, what's the temperature. Is the idle smooth, is the needle bouncing around?

Typical symptoms of a failed ISC.

Answer this question to be sure:

"with the car in neutral and idling if you put the a/c on or turn the wheel whilst stationary enough to start loading up the P/S pump does the idle remain steady, rise ever so slightly with load or just die or drop low?"

Engine needs to be warm when doing this.

What Madmax and others said,replace your ISC and all will be fine,i had this happen to my VRX AND nh Pajero replaced both and now all is well.

I have some spares, a kind and free gift from an ex member. Wanna negotiate? lol

Or pick one up from U-Pull-it, North or South, whichever is closest.
(I'm assuming you are in Adelaide.)

If you have a multimeter, there is an easy way to check if your ISC is working ok or not.

I have some spares, a kind and free gift from an ex member. Wanna negotiate? lol

Or pick one up from U-Pull-it, North or South, whichever is closest.
(I'm assuming you are in Adelaide.)

If you have a multimeter, there is an easy way to check if your ISC is working ok or not.
Hi Max i think once its plugged in if you turn the key you should hear it go puff puff :) or something like that.

Hi Max i think once its plugged in if you turn the key you should hear it go puff puff :) or something like that.

LOL lol
It will do that even when stuffed. Normally, it makes a noise when the key is turned because it is extending and retracting the nose, if one coil is open circuit, it will still make the noise but it will stay fully retracted or extended, depending on which coil is open circuit.

Multimeter can be used without taking it off the car.
(2 rows of 3 pins, measure each row from the centre pin to each of the outside pins.
You should get 4 identical readings for a good one, or a very high - open - reading for one coil if the ISC is dead.)

LOL lol
It will do that even when stuffed. Normally, it makes a noise when the key is turned because it is extending and retracting the nose, if one coil is open circuit, it will still make the noise but it will stay fully retracted or extended, depending on which coil is open circuit.

Multimeter can be used without taking it off the car.
(2 rows of 3 pins, measure each row from the centre pin to each of the outside pins.
You should get 4 identical readings for a good one, or a very high - open - reading for one coil if the ISC is dead.)

Yeah so true :)

$13 from Upullit - tell them it's an Idle sensor or something and they'll mark it as an EFI Sensor.

Okay ive just gone outside and started her up idle fine after 15 seconds (before that was going up and down a bit) let her warm up to just under running temp. switch air con on, turned to wheel a few times, idle remained at about 880rpm (start idling at 950ish and went down as the engine got hotter) the idle needle remains smooth the whole time.

My bad, that was in park. ini went out and did again in neutral and when air con went on it dropped about 100rpm and an additional 50+rpm when turning the wheel

My bad, that was in park. ini went out and did again in neutral and when air con went on it dropped about 100rpm and an additional 50+rpm when turning the wheel

neutral/park same result. You may not have the gear to do this but some other electrical checks but if the idle is not stepping up like you describe does sound like ISC is dead. My TW you can definitely see the idle step up with load and then it should adjust back to normal idle speed.

I think when the ignition is first turned on the ISc is pulsed and you may hear a momentary rattle/buzz like a solenoid being pulsed.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Kebgkqu2UcxihAu8cehj9VrFBGo9o0O1r0-wa-S7mfo=w542-h643-no

Okay good news everyone! first of all i have my p's now so test drives are go. i went and got some throttle body cleaner and cleaned out the throttle body and the ISC. took it for a single lap and it runs PERFECTLY. not even a slight hicup. only a 1 minute drive but yeah perrrfectly. but the check engine light is still on. im not sure fi that is because of the ISC or something else but its on. i am about to go check the connection now.
any ideas on how to check what its on for?

Check Engine or Just the Red exclamation mark?

Could be anything - does it start okay cold/hot? Have you checked the oil?

Supercheap Auto do a code read for $14 or so (with print out of the codes showing - which should be logged via check engine light) - it is OBD2 compatible but I'm not sure if they have the MUT-II nonsense, might have to give them a call and see if they've done a Magna before or have the equipment to do it.

Check engine, the exclamation is the handbrake.. i may be young but im not stupid :P. Could it still be the ISC even if its working correctly? the reasoning for the light being on that is. I'll give them a call tomorrow if they are open and ask them.

AAAnd went to take it for a slightly longer test drive and it didnt even stay on long enough for it to warm up a tad so i could drive it. going down to upullit tomorrow to get an ISC

Bad new guys, been down to upullit and got another one. again ran fine for the same amount of time than last time but i took it one road over and it died when i stopped at a intersection. it seems it goes bad when it gets warm, check engine light is on still. if i take it to supercheap for a reading will that tell me 100% whats wrong. if it wont mum doesnt wanna do it.

Did you disconnect the battery to clear the fault codes after installing the new ISC? If not, do so, then run again. If the engine fault light remains on or returns you need to check the error codes (here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/59528593/Mitsubishi-Magna-TE-TJ-96-04-V6-3-0-3-5#scribd or search this forum, or download the manual). No point guessing when the ECU is trying to tell you what's wrong.

Can you message me what area you're in (I'm West Lakes) if you're not too far I can come have a look, it could be as simple as a vacuum connector - Have you checked those?

i have not done the battery thing, i will go do it after typing this. idles nicely (did after i cleaned the isc aswell) i took the airbox off to check it again and when i put back together it ran great...without the MAF sensor plugged in. then it has hiccups again when i plug it back in. Im down in morphettvale. ill go disconnect battery and see what happens but im assuming something bad with the MAF sensor, could this be so? with the symtoms etc

Reset the battery. engine light still on, so my real question now lies in the MAF.

Yes, MAF can play up before dying, symptoms vary. Disconnecting it forces the ECU to use built-in air-fuel mix based on other factors, it'll run but with terrible economy (think 40+ L/100km). I strongly recommend checking the error code to avoid chasing your tail on this, if the engine light came back on after resetting then there's a code (or more than one) waiting to be read.

I dont have a code reader so how can i do this? would it be bad to leave the maf unplugged to drive it up to supercheap to get a reading and back?

The plug is up under the dash and the procedure/code map is in the link in my earlier post or here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98435
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2012-07-04_124941_dlc.png
You don't need a code reader to do this.

Re MAF unplugged, it won't cause any problems, it'll just use more fuel than usual.

i have found a female plug and a male plug but they donot sit to eachother, one has lots of wires the other has one. i cant tell what i need to do

is there any chance i can give someone a call to guide me to find the right plug, bottom of dash is off i have found 3 plugs 2 big ones (one for computer thingo) one big plug but with only one wire and a smaller plug. what one needs to go where?

How the hell do i ground the connector?

OKAY I GOT IT, IT SAYS AIR FLOW SENSOR, do i just go and new one from u pullit? my mum just wants it fixed so she can sell it and not make it like new like i would?
will a new MAF fix this code?

EDIT: oh and how much would it be if you guys know?

OKAY I GOT IT, IT SAYS AIR FLOW SENSOR, do i just go and new one from u pullit? my mum just wants it fixed so she can sell it and not make it like new like i would?
will a new MAF fix this code?

EDIT: oh and how much would it be if you guys know?

MAF = Mass Air Flow Sensor, so yes, it'll fix your code, along with a clean ISC the car should be good again.

You get 30 day warranty at Upullit and a MAF takes 5 seconds to take off. Just grab anyone you can find (off a TL/TW maybe?). If I had to guess $30? You can call and ask for a price, be polite when you purchase it though, they might be nice and give it to you as a generic sensor :)

Oh that isn't too bad of a price, there was atleast 3 tjs out there, one of them almost fully assembled, i took the air box off one so ill go to that one

And thanks for the help guys, hopefully this is the last problem.

Okay, wet back down to upullit $59 later, on a new MAF sensor and she runs perfectly again. engine light went away on its own, no problems whatsoever. went for about an hour test dive and still runs great. Thanks to everyone who had an input in this forum!