Looks like it's my turn for the Alarm blues. Now I can only give the symptoms my Mrs has reported and the little I can deduce having a poke.

She says the car hazard lights just start blinking, no horn and the doors unlock?

I have not been around when it happens but a short while ago the Alarm did false trigger and I just cycled power and it stopped, seemed to settle down but it's now back.

One thing she did mention about the uinlock was it happened twice at the same location in a shopping centre and that's the only time. Also incredibly her mother in a completely unrelated vehicle, 200 series landcruiser did the same thing at the same place - there's a mobile phone tower nearby, so that's an interesting suspect. Telstra unlocking the cars with RF. Sounds plausible

Anyway, no horns, because the Horns have died that's what I've found there.

the rest I have no idea, assume faulty BEM. One thing I have noticed is I have done this in the past, lock the car and arm the alarm with the bonnent up and holding the switch down then releasing it triggers.

Now , i do this no alarm trigger, but If i repeatedly press the plunger activating the switch on/off several times it does eventually trigger (hazards at least)
I have checked the switch and it makes good contact and effectively a short, even checked the resistance there.

Anyone had similar issues and worked out what the fix is?

Also can the alarm feature be disabled with the MUT? Would a dealer do this if asked? I can live with out the alarm so long as the immobo is still intact.

I've had the lock/unlock cycle happen randomly in my TL. Hit a bump while driving, and the locks cycle a few times.
Turned out to be a bad contact switch in the driver's door. Test it by thumping the driver's door with your fist from inside the car with all the doors shut.
A pain to pull apart and fix, but cost = zero. Just bend the wiper copper contact a bit to improve contact.

You can pull the fuse for the doors as a temporary fix to stop this happening, just means that the doors need to be unlocked manually - driver door with the key, then other doors from inside the car. Reverse to lock.

Just so I don't have to repeat myself. lol

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100935&highlight=door+switch

I've had the lock/unlock cycle happen randomly in my TL. Hit a bump while driving, and the locks cycle a few times.
Turned out to be a bad contact switch in the driver's door. Test it by thumping the driver's door with your fist from inside the car with all the doors shut.
A pain to pull apart and fix, but cost = zero. Just bend the wiper copper contact a bit to improve contact.

You can pull the fuse for the doors as a temporary fix to stop this happening, just means that the doors need to be unlocked manually - driver door with the key, then other doors from inside the car. Reverse to lock.

Yeah I tried the thump the crap out of my car trick. Nothing happened, I think the unlock bit may have been spurious RF. i know of the door lock / unlock thing in my galant the drivers contacts are stuffed and yeah locks itself straight after unlock.

I think the door lock thing is an unrelated anomaly. Its the alarm side that I'm worried about especially if MMAL do not have the parts which I'm starting to get use too but this item is crictical, if it fails completely the car wil never start.

Just so I don't have to repeat myself. lol

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100935&highlight=door+switch

But the picture is dead man! :'(

But the picture is dead man! :'(

Such is life . . .

Quite common when you quote 2 year old threads.

Faulty/failing battery has caused the same issues for me in the past.
Also, faulty door trigger switch can cause locking/unlocking issues.

Faulty/failing battery has caused the same issues for me in the past.
Also, faulty door trigger switch can cause locking/unlocking issues.

Ok , thanks. battery is perfect just replaced 2 months ago. I have a bit more of the picture. turns out wifeys mobile also locked up at the same time so i'm leaning towards something in the airwaves plus Our remotes are pretty knackered but the red button and panic still works , green is stuck so there's a chance the close vicinity of the remote may be causing an issue too. We don't use them any more so have taken the remote off the key ring and see what happens.

Ok , thanks. battery is perfect just replaced 2 months ago. I have a bit more of the picture. turns out wifeys mobile also locked up at the same time so i'm leaning towards something in the airwaves plus Our remotes are pretty knackered but the re button still works , green is stuck so there's a chance the close vicinity of the remote may be causing an issue too. We don't use them any more so have taken the remote off the key ring and see what happens.

Haha, good man. I was about to type that about the remote while I was reading your comment, but then you said you had already done it at the end there.

So anyway, with my old AWD I had the whole flashing lights thing, and yea that was because the horn was unplugged and the alarm was secretly going off. The previous owner had unplugged the horn instead of actually fixing the real issue which was a dodgy bonnet sensor. Replacing that sensor for me fixed the issue of the alarm going off, but in your case it sounds like it could be a door sensor which is going ape, thus causing the door locks to spaz out as well as the alarm/lights.

If the doo-hicky on the remote isn't the cause just replace the doo-dads on the door one at a time and it might fix the thingy-bob, maybe.

Haha, good man. I was about to type that about the remote while I was reading your comment, but then you said you had already done it at the end there.

So anyway, with my old AWD I had the whole flashing lights thing, and yea that was because the horn was unplugged and the alarm was secretly going off. The previous owner had unplugged the horn instead of actually fixing the real issue which was a dodgy bonnet sensor. Replacing that sensor for me fixed the issue of the alarm going off, but in your case it sounds like it could be a door sensor which is going ape, thus causing the door locks to spaz out as well as the alarm/lights.

If the doo-hicky on the remote isn't the cause just replace the doo-dads on the door one at a time and it might fix the thingy-bob, maybe.

Yeah, it's weird. One of those faults that's very hard to pin and could spend rediculous amounts on parts not faulty. I just hope the dood-dads come in left and right sides. drivers door actuator would be probably where i'd start if guessing as it's the master but it locks/unlocks fine but then 10 years on , bits wear, grease dries, who knows. I'm not in a hurry to get the horn going again until I'm confident it's stable again . Might see if i can get some electrolube into the bonnet switch just in case.

electrolube

:hmm:



:ninja:



:facejump:

:2cool:

http://www.electrolube.com/core/components/products/img/lge/EML400D%201SLVEML400D-B_lge.jpg

http://www.matador.com.au/productimages/CRC2015.jpg

ok, things we never knew or forget about. reading the manual, always a good idea answers some questions. For starters the security light illuminates when the car is locked, remains illuminated for 20secs then the car is armed. Mine takes closer to 30secs. This explains why when I repeatedly depress the bonnet switch it eventually triggers, alarm had not armed yet.

So testing it again after the security light goes out the moment that bonnet switch releases, off it goes . lights blinking. According to the book of knowledge after 30 secs, alarm resets - correct exactly 30secs reset occurred, good news and car remained locked which wifey is worried about but I'm certain that was an external source causing that.

SO armed the car, waited for green light to extinguish, thumping doors inside and out, pulling handles, tried lifting the bonnet which has no movement in it at all, nothing no trigger.

So i now need to readup on what tells this thing a door is open which I assume will be the light switches, if the BEM saw a door was ajar at the time of arming it would not arm and I know from way back it gives 2 very short toots of the horn to say close the doors dopey.

may still turn out to be the BEM, components like capacitors can go out of spec with age and heat, might be as simple as recapping the board, who knows.