First post here guys, so please be nice :)

Magna TS SE 3.094 Just found out that the map reading lights aren't working.

Can't find any reference to them in the Haynes Manual :(
A downloaded manual only makes a reference to removing the lamps as part of the removing the roof liner. But doesn't actually say 'how' to remove it

I've checked the engine bay fuse's and I've 'sort of' checked that fuse box near the accelerator but I can't make out which one does the map lamps.
The middle interior light works ok as well as the foot well lights.

I did recently last week put a dash cam in (top of windscreen behind mirror), and tucked the lead into the roof liner in front of the map light assembly, then ran it down the left A Pillar (SNAPPING THAT FRIGGING METAL CLIP AND CRUSHING THE PLASTIC LUGS!!!!), but I was very careful and the lead would have only gone in 10mm at most at the top.

I only noticed the map light not working after I sat back chuffed having a done such a good job! ;)
But it may have not been working for years as I rarely use them.

I had a pry to see if I could remove the map light assembly to check the wiring, globes, but I'm prettified of having it dangling after I snap the 'whatever' clips that holds it in place - so if anyone knows how to remove it safely that would be great.
I know how to use a DMM so as the globes should show a short when the button is pressed, maybe someone knows which wires I can test. I'm not very good at reading the wiring schematics :(

Sorry for the long ramble, but I'm trying to give as much info as I can.
Thanks.

There is a proper manual on this site somewhere.
This is the title as shown in my index. "TR-TS Magna - KR-KS Verada Workshop Manual.pdf".
In general, the lighting circuits have the active wire coming from the fuse box to the lamp bulb itself. Operation of the lamp is done by grounding the other end of the bulb.
So, you can check for lamp operation problems by: 1. remove the lamp bulb(s); 2. checking there is 12 volt at one of the bulb socket terminals; and 3. checking there is continuity to ground from the other bulb socket terminal, (with the on/off switch set to ON.)
If test 2 fails, there is a problem in the wiring from the fuse supply. If test 3 fails, then there is a problem in the switch or the connection to ground (chassis)often the earthing lead is corroded where it bolts to the chassis.

Hi rumpfy,

I'm ok to check the globes etc, but I don't know how to disassemble the actual unit.

I got that manual and as I said in the OP, it shows the map reading unit removal in the case of replacing the roof liner. But it doesn't say HOW to remove it.
I just don't want to break any clips or mouldings. Not sure what to pry off or where to start with a blade screwdriver etc etc...

Had a mate come over (bike mechanic), and he said he didn't know how to get it off safely.

I might just leave it. Haven't used it for years. But thought it might have just been a simple unclip sort of thing.

OK.
You need firstly, a diagnosis.
Take the globe out.
With a volt/ohm meter, connect the negative lead to the car chassis.
With the positive lead, connect to each of the two globe terminals in turn. ONE of these terminals will have to be at 12 volt. if not, the problem lies in the connection through the fuse to the lamp socket.
If you find one terminal has 12 volt on it, then test the other terminal for continuity to chassis with the switch ON using the 'OHMS' range on the volt/ohmmeter.. There will be two wires to the switch. One comes from the globe terminal, the other goes to the chassis. Check for continuity from the switch to ground. If OK, then disconnect the negative lead of the ohmmeter from chassis and check for continuity between the globe terminal and the switch, and also check continuity between the switch terminals with the switch 'ON'. You MUST have continuity. The test where there is no continuity is the problem.
hope this helps.

According to the schematic diagrams, the globes in the map light assembly are grounded at one end, and the 12V applied to the other side via the switch. The switch does not ground one side of the lamp to turn it on as it does for, say the door switches. Electrically it is similar, but will change the suggested criteria for diagnosing correct operation of the map lights and associated wiring:

There will be two wires on each switch - one is 12V all the time, the other goes to one side of each globe.
The other side of the globe will go to chassis (ground).
With the globe out and the switch on you should be able to measure 12V on one side of the globe socket.

Also worth pointing out is that the fuse for the map lights is shared for all interior lights, and if the fuse is blown none of the interior lights will work either.

Manual suggests that map light assembly has a notch one of the longest edges of the plastic surround that a flat-bladed screwdriver can be inserted into to allow it to be levered/popped off.

Thanks for that AC.
My error; didnt actually read the manual. Just assumed.
So, can I add:

"with the switch off, and the globe removed, one of the globe connections MUST have continuity to ground".

Don't be scared to pry at the map lights. It must be a tight fit since they've never come off before. I have done this many times, and the plastic molding has no metal clips. It holds itself up there, and is perfectly fine to be pryed at with a flat blade screwdriver (and a rag, if you wish).

The lights run from the same source as the interior light, so if the loom is damaged, the interior light should have also failed. There are only 2 wires for both the map lights, and the interior light. One is always powered, the other is triggered by the doors.