Have a 2003 KJ verada GTV. Under load at say 100 km per hr on freeway driving it develops a quite noticeable shudder through the front end. It is not in the steering and all engine mounts are good. We took it to a mechanic (who is fairly respected in the area we have just moved to).He said drive shaft good. CV's good. engine mount good. tyres are new and wheels balanced . He reckons that it drives well until you give it some or climb a hill at speed(we told him that anyway).He states its from the traction control being activated? constantly and affecting the transmission? This seems like Cr*p to me. He also said it needs to go to a transmission person to check it out-the fluid is ok and he reckons its not a wear issue or torque converter shudder. Has anyone heard of this before and will disabling the TCL-and how do you do it(is it as simple as taking out a fuse?) help, without a major transmission bill. Car has done 240k but well looked after and not towed or flogged.

Have a 2003 KJ verada GTV. Under load at say 100 km per hr on freeway driving it develops a quite noticeable shudder through the front end. It is not in the steering and all engine mounts are good. We took it to a mechanic (who is fairly respected in the area we have just moved to).He said drive shaft good. CV's good. engine mount good. tyres are new and wheels balanced . He reckons that it drives well until you give it some or climb a hill at speed(we told him that anyway).He states its from the traction control being activated? constantly and affecting the transmission? This seems like Cr*p to me. He also said it needs to go to a transmission person to check it out-the fluid is ok and he reckons its not a wear issue or torque converter shudder. Has anyone heard of this before and will disabling the TCL-and how do you do it(is it as simple as taking out a fuse?) help, without a major transmission bill. Car has done 240k but well looked after and not towed or flogged.

I would say highly unlikely. Is the TCL light on saying it's activating? TCL in my car seems like it just cuts the throttle until the slip is corrected.

If he reckons it's not a TC issue I don't understand the take it to trans place. Inner joints if badly worn can I have found in my galant from about 80-90 Kph up cause the whole chassis to shake up front. I found worst in top gear ( 5th manual) at about 100 and up hills or under load even more. extended hwy driving also made it worse. I found dropping back a gear somehow reduced it.

were the shafts removed to check for wear on the inner joint? I'd think it would be difficult to do in car. They slide in and out so the worn spot maybe not where it was when the car was hoisted. i'd expect the shaft to extend out as the wheels dropped so it would not be in it's normal position for normal driving.; that's my theory but with mine it was badly worn in a fairly localised spot.

have the boots ever split on the inners?

I fully agree with your info. No-no TCL light came on at all. No real difference between gears. Just shakes under load. If I back off the throttle at any speed, and cruise , it seems to go away but again under load it returns. I reckon the guy is a wanker and just didn't want to work on it as I am new to the area(Lake Munmorah).

Have a 2003 KJ verada GTV. Under load at say 100 km per hr on freeway driving it develops a quite noticeable shudder through the front end. It is not in the steering and all engine mounts are good. We took it to a mechanic (who is fairly respected in the area we have just moved to).He said drive shaft good. CV's good. engine mount good. tyres are new and wheels balanced . He reckons that it drives well until you give it some or climb a hill at speed(we told him that anyway).He states its from the traction control being activated? constantly and affecting the transmission? This seems like Cr*p to me. He also said it needs to go to a transmission person to check it out-the fluid is ok and he reckons its not a wear issue or torque converter shudder. Has anyone heard of this before and will disabling the TCL-and how do you do it(is it as simple as taking out a fuse?) help, without a major transmission bill. Car has done 240k but well looked after and not towed or flogged.

My old KR Verada done this and it was the drive shaft, not the CV end but the other end that goes in the transmission (tripod joint its called) maybe this is what is wrong with your car

I've posted images before of mine but goi here if you want an idea what can happen.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t57797-galant-6a12-manual-chassis-vibration-when-accelerating.htm

I just love these guessing games where no-one can see the car or experience the problem, and think they know better than someone who has looked at it. (Mr Mech could be wrong though.)

So, playing along:
My guess is that if it is a really high km vehicle, the tie rod ends or ball joints are worn, causing a shimmy under acceleration. Try lifting off the throttle when it happens, and see if it disappears instantly.

Unfortunately this is a classic example of a problem that needs a trial and error approach to a fix: You replace some bits that you think is the cause, if no change move on to another bit.
viz: Out of balance or damaged tyre, front or back.
Combination of wheel bearing play and warped discs causing brake pads to drag briefly once every rotation of a wheel.
Engine mount(s).
Unbalanced drive shaft(s).
Torque converter slip.
Worn tie rods.
Worn suspension struts, top bearing, lower suspension arm bushes.
Worn ball joints.

I just love these guessing games where no-one can see the car or experience the problem, and think they know better than someone who has looked at it. (Mr Mech could be wrong though.)

So, playing along:
My guess is that if it is a really high km vehicle, the tie rod ends or ball joints are worn, causing a shimmy under acceleration. Try lifting off the throttle when it happens, and see if it disappears instantly.

Unfortunately this is a classic example of a problem that needs a trial and error approach to a fix: You replace some bits that you think is the cause, if no change move on to another bit.
viz: Out of balance or damaged tyre, front or back.
Combination of wheel bearing play and warped discs causing brake pads to drag briefly once every rotation of a wheel.
Engine mount(s).
Unbalanced drive shaft(s).
Torque converter slip.
Worn tie rods.
Worn suspension struts, top bearing, lower suspension arm bushes.
Worn ball joints.

Don't be a hypocrite Madmax, no one here has said they know what is wrong with car they are just saying what might be wrong with car, what makes you think your the expert and have the right to condemn what other people have said, Mal has pulled you up many times because you're giving bad advise to people, you even said on this post " My guess is that if it is a really high km vehicle, the tie rod ends or ball joints are worn, causing a shimmy under acceleration" you're no better then anyone else you just think your a F'in expert

you just think your a F'in expert

Grumpy, much? lol
At least I've given the OP a list of possible problem areas on a 240,000 km old Magna rather than a single suggestion.

Meh. Why do I even bother?
(Post reported as being abusive.)

Grumpy, much? lol
At least I've given the OP a list of possible problem areas on a 240,000 km old Magna rather than a single suggestion.

Meh. Why do I even bother?
(Post reported as being abusive.)

You have no right to condemn what other people have said, everyone has only offered suggestions what might be wrong, report me I don't care, I'm sure a lot of people on here are sick of your shit

I just love these guessing games where no-one can see the car or experience the problem, and think they know better than someone who has looked at it. (Mr Mech could be wrong though.)

So, playing along:
My guess is that if it is a really high km vehicle, the tie rod ends or ball joints are worn, causing a shimmy under acceleration. Try lifting off the throttle when it happens, and see if it disappears instantly.

Unfortunately this is a classic example of a problem that needs a trial and error approach to a fix: You replace some bits that you think is the cause, if no change move on to another bit.
viz: Out of balance or damaged tyre, front or back.
Combination of wheel bearing play and warped discs causing brake pads to drag briefly once every rotation of a wheel.
Engine mount(s).
Unbalanced drive shaft(s).
Torque converter slip.
Worn tie rods.
Worn suspension struts, top bearing, lower suspension arm bushes.
Worn ball joints.

Really, maybe we should just shut this forum down then as all we can do is share experiences and have a best guess based on that data and the written description given by the original author.

I'll just say in a completely different forum I had a guy challenge me on my inner joint theory. got the blah, blah , blah , been a mechanic for 30years, never seen an inner joint fail on a mitsubishi that would cause that.

Well, that's when I took the snaps and politely pointed out, correctly diagnosed on vehicle, disassembled and proven , fully rectified with new shafts.

And that is why I very rarely trust anyone to touch my cars because i end up getting reamed for their misdiagnosis. Of course not everyone but there's a fair percentage.

Going on what the OP has said , you can delete the majority of your suggestions. If it is worn inner joints, it will possibly disappear lifting off as well. If I had to pick 2 , it'd be shafts or maybe TCC but if the whole front end is shaking but not through steering wheel then I'm biased towards shafts .

If they're badly worn then they will be off balance as they will be off centre.:roflwtf:

Really, maybe we should just shut this forum down then as all we can do is share experiences and have a best guess based on that data and the written description given by the original author.

I'll just say in a completely different forum I had a guy challenge me on my inner joint theory. got the blah, blah , blah , been a mechanic for 30years, never seen an inner joint fail on a mitsubishi that would cause that.

Well, that's when I took the snaps and politely pointed out, correctly diagnosed on vehicle, disassembled and proven , fully rectified with new shafts.

And that is why I very rarely trust anyone to touch my cars because i end up getting reamed for their misdiagnosis. Of course not everyone but there's a fair percentage.

Going on what the OP has said , you can delete the majority of your suggestions. If it is worn inner joints, it will possibly disappear lifting off as well. If I had to pick 2 , it'd be shafts or maybe TCC but if the whole front end is shaking but not through steering wheel then I'm biased towards shafts .

If they're badly worn then they will be off balance as they will be off centre.:roflwtf:

So true TW2005, I had this same problem with my KR Verada years ago and couldn't workout what was wrong, its was vibrating badly when accelerating up hills, the CV's didn't click or rattle so I didn't think it was them but turned out it was the drivers side inner drive-shaft joint the tri pod joint as they call it in the gregory's manual that was worn and causing an off balance as you have said, I don't know what is causing the similar problem in fatma31 car but I could only say what my experiences were with the same problem.

Don't be a hypocrite Madmax, . . . .
you're no better then anyone else you just think your a F'in expert

Is that a nice way to treat someone who has been on this forum for 10 years and has near 10,000 posts?


You have no right to condemn what other people have said
. . . . I'm sure a lot of people on here are sick of your shit

Don't think I've condemned anyones' suggestions, but seeing you are sick of my shit, you will be pleased to know I'm not going to bother posting any more. It's been great, this forum has had a wonderful, vibrant life in the past but the rot has set in slowly over the last few years. I still love the Magnas and Mitsubishis in general, this forum not so much.


I don't know what is causing the similar problem in fatma31 car but I could only say what my experiences were with the same problem.

Carry on, Mr Expert.

Is that a nice way to treat someone who has been on this forum for 10 years and has near 10,000 posts?

Don't think I've condemned anyones' suggestions, but seeing you are sick of my shit, you will be pleased to know I'm not going to bother posting any more. It's been great, this forum has had a wonderful, vibrant life in the past but the rot has set in slowly over the last few years. I still love the Magnas and Mitsubishis in general, this forum not so much.

Carry on, Mr Expert.

Madmax.....here we go again, Finally you get the hint, yes, you have 10000 posts, 9950 of them are useless information which will end up costing someone serious money in the end.....

Person asks a question, instead of just stating that could be so many things you have a go at the community in general who all did make valid suggestions. This "you have to go by trial and error" well, you are the error my friend.

You copped exactly what you deserved, what most was thinking and what Deano had the balls to say

So to answer your own question, WHY DO YOU BOTHER

Op, the thing I would be looking at here is Torque Converter Shudder (not slip Max). This can be especially common if some clown has used poor quality or wrong fluid. To eliminate you can even do a dump and refill with fresh fluid (however I would do a flush with proper fluid) and put in a tube of shudder stop. It is quite common on cars of this age and to be honest, what you describe in your post could not be closer to what I would call symptoms of this very thing

I had a TJ that shuddered alot like what yours is doing shuddered at 100 klms under load even slight accerlation using cruise control it also did this backing off from a 100 and costing down to around 80 ended up being the CV/drive shafts there were no usual signs tried engine mounts tyre rotation new tyres wheels engine mounts tranny flush it had mechanics stumped anyway on a chance I read about shudder in driveshafts on cars with high highway klms went to the wrecker got a complete CV/driveshaft and low and behold fixed it this may not be your problem but it is a cheap fix if process of elimiation is being considered

Thanks for all your reply. Some with good intentions and appreciated. Some???. I really originally was questioning the mechanics TCL reason and him saying to take it to a transmission specialist?
As mentioned in original listing-it is a high mileage car and was Only going on what the mechanic said. I know myself that the tyres are new, the wheels are balanced and aligned and all the engine mounts are good and almost new. The brake discs should be good as there is no wobbly, grabbing etc when applying the brakes at low and high speed. The suspension and steering seems as tight as can be and there is no noise whatsoever and rough roads. The wheel bearings show no movement at all.
The drive shafts seem ok to me but as I am not a mechanic I don't know what ok is. I got under it today and 1 seemed tight. the other turned very minutely with a little click at the end of the turn?The CV's don't make any noise at full lock whatsoever
The only thing I don't know how to check is torque converter slippage-though it does do it in all gears that I can safely manually put it into at the higher speeds, but it does stop instantly as soon as foot is taken off accelerator, and it is non existent at under about 70 kph.I tend to think the mechanic didn't really bother to look at it properly or didn't want to work on it, especially as he had it for 2 days and only charged me $50 (which included a rego inspection $38-which he passed).
I am tending to go with TW2005 shaft suggestions, and I am going to try another "younger" guy in the area that always seems quite busy, and see what he says.

P>s just read Madmagna response. Will try the tranny fluid and shudder stop as well

P>s just read Madmagna response. Will try the tranny fluid and shudder stop as well

I think if you don't know if the fluid is correct or when the fluid was changed , I'd do this first since it's a benefit. If it's the issue and fixes it - bonus because taking the shafts out is a bigger job. I f it does not, no loss as a tranny flush can only help extend the gearbox life ,and performance.

Well, I'd go with MadMagna's suggestion because you are dealing with a mechanic who is inside the guts of Magnas and 380s every day. Wrong/poor quality fluid can cause wonky gear changes and halting under load, for sure. Having written that, my old 3 litre TS Magna wagon started doing a similar thing and it turned out to be driveshafts.

Me...I'd start with the good advice...empty the trans fluid, flush it and replace it with genuine Mitsubishi oil. If the problem's fixed then you've gotten out of it all cheaply plus probably given extra longevity to your transmission. If it isn't then get a real Mitsubishi mechanic to drive and diagnose it.

Fluid in trans flushed and replaced. Still shudders. Took it to a more professional "looking" operation with a "younger mechanic". He spent some time marking it with textas and driving it and he is confident its the drive shafts, both sides inner shafts have issues. One is very worn and the other is getting there, so it looks like they will be getting done over the next few days. Thanks for everyone's help and I will post the out come after its all over. P.s changing the rocker cover seals and the ones around the plug holes at the same time to stop the ever increasing oil leak onto the exhaust manifold as well. The guy is doing it for the cost of the seals only. looks like this guy will be the regular mechanic for the 3 vehicles I have(if the driveshaft's work out.

Fluid in trans flushed and replaced. Still shudders. Took it to a more professional "looking" operation with a "younger mechanic". He spent some time marking it with textas and driving it and he is confident its the drive shafts, both sides inner shafts have issues. One is very worn and the other is getting there, so it looks like they will be getting done over the next few days. Thanks for everyone's help and I will post the out come after its all over. P.s changing the rocker cover seals and the ones around the plug holes at the same time to stop the ever increasing oil leak onto the exhaust manifold as well. The guy is doing it for the cost of the seals only. looks like this guy will be the regular mechanic for the 3 vehicles I have(if the driveshaft's work out.

Glad to here its getting all sorted, not sure if anyone has mention it but the seal on the distributor is also another area where oil leaks from, done my rocker covers 6 months ago but oil was still getting on to the exhaust, turned out it was the oil seal on the distributor. All the best cheers

Fluid in trans flushed and replaced. Still shudders. Took it to a more professional "looking" operation with a "younger mechanic". He spent some time marking it with textas and driving it and he is confident its the drive shafts, both sides inner shafts have issues. One is very worn and the other is getting there, so it looks like they will be getting done over the next few days. Thanks for everyone's help and I will post the out come after its all over. P.s changing the rocker cover seals and the ones around the plug holes at the same time to stop the ever increasing oil leak onto the exhaust manifold as well. The guy is doing it for the cost of the seals only. looks like this guy will be the regular mechanic for the 3 vehicles I have(if the driveshaft's work out.

Consider new axle seals whilst they're out too. I found OEM were cheaper than what most places wanted aftermarket

Well. The final chapter to my story. The drive shafts have been changed, the seals on the rocker covers, spark plug holes and distributor seal all changed with Repco parts and I believe the shafts needed are larger diameter like the VRXs so cost a bit. Now it drives like a new car. No leaks, fumes or shakes for a 240k + car. Even the mechanic said it drives great. AND all for $695.40 including labour. I think that's a great deal.i don't think he made much from the job. Thanks for all your help everyone.

Well. The final chapter to my story. The drive shafts have been changed, the seals on the rocker covers, spark plug holes and distributor seal all changed with Repco parts and I believe the shafts needed are larger diameter like the VRXs so cost a bit. Now it drives like a new car. No leaks, fumes or shakes for a 240k + car. Even the mechanic said it drives great. AND all for $695.40 including labour. I think that's a great deal.i don't think he made much from the job. Thanks for all your help everyone.

No real surprise here, reminds me so much of my Galant, new shafts made it so nice(bearable)to drive , I drove it from Newie to Darwin.

Well. The final chapter to my story. The drive shafts have been changed, the seals on the rocker covers, spark plug holes and distributor seal all changed with Repco parts and I believe the shafts needed are larger diameter like the VRXs so cost a bit. Now it drives like a new car. No leaks, fumes or shakes for a 240k + car. Even the mechanic said it drives great. AND all for $695.40 including labour. I think that's a great deal.i don't think he made much from the job. Thanks for all your help everyone.

That's excellent glad it all worked out for you buddy, that's a great price for all the work you had done.