This is a guide on how to make your first gen wagon handle like an absolute dream. for a little over $1000 you can build a standard height wagon that is a delight to drive hard, and is one of the quickest 2wd autocross cars you can come across.

What you're going to need:
- a 1st gen magna wagon
- 2 standard front struts (these are going to get cut up so it pays to keep the originals just in case)
- 2 Bilstein R36-5023 strut inserts (these are specifically for a Nissan S13)
- 2 Bilstein B36-816 C2 Gland nuts, with weld-on collar (has to be higher than approx 60-70mm)
- Full set of King Standard Height springs (front: KCFS-21 rear: KCRS-10)
- Nolathane offset lower control arm bushes (45409)
- Rear shocks are not as necessary but any basic Koni or other aftermarket would do the job fine.
Optional:
- Sump guard if you plan on throwing it down any gnarly autocross tracks/gravel roads
- Extractors, standard manifold is prone to cracking
- Cat removal is a noticeable increase in power
- Remove/de-restrict airbox
- Some decent 15" mags (because who wants to roll on steelies?)
- Boss kit and 350mm steering wheel to make it feel less like a bus, I find 60-70mm dish is spot on.
- A saw and some pipe to get rid of stock muffler for extra drift points

How to build the front struts:
Gland nut and collar:
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11759410_10207873212778460_1421373201_n_zpsg50upfo g.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11759410_10207873212778460_1421373201_n_zpsg50upfo g.jpg.html

Shock inserts:
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11999939_10207873213658482_2138413511_n_zps7jmjqix i.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11999939_10207873213658482_2138413511_n_zps7jmjqix i.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11950932_10207873225618781_398396888_n_zpsf9luaael .jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11950932_10207873225618781_398396888_n_zpsf9luaael .jpg.html

to start off with, drill a (5mm for memory) hole in the bottom of each strut, perfectly in the center as the thread on the shock insert will come through here. Allow the oil to drain out of the strut.
The top of the standard strut will taper out to its widest point above the spring seat, at this point you need to neatly cut all the way around with a grinder. Once the cut has been made the standard shock absorber should pull out from the strut.
Clean out the inside of the strut.
Some versions of the outer casing of the Bilstein insert are slightly too large for the standard strut, so you may need to grind about 1mm worth of paint and metal off all round.
slide the insert into the strut and bolt it into the bottom
Slide the collar and gland nut over the insert and onto the top of the strut, at this point you need to tack the collar onto the strut. This should be done with the gland nut done up about 3/4 so that there is room to pull tighter on the insert.
Once the collar is tacked on, remove the gland nut and the insert and finish welding the collar on.
Final product should look something like this:
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11924784_10207873215018516_1498393033_n_zps3sdh1vo 8.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/11924784_10207873215018516_1498393033_n_zps3sdh1vo 8.jpg.html

Then put your springs on and bung them in with about -2 degrees camber, you may need camber bolts to achieve this if you don't feel like filing out the bolt holes in the strut.

Castor bushes need to be installed for maximum positive castor, so the rear end of the LCA's should be offset outwards, so as to move the ball joint forward of the strut top.
Rear shocks are a much easier change, Cant remember the exact setup but anything the right length will just bolt in, along with the spring change.
The results should look something like this:
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/10629300_10205360137833157_8002653079337682010_o_z ps6xyk8ojt.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/10629300_10205360137833157_8002653079337682010_o_z ps6xyk8ojt.jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/191645_435343653171347_1302374236_o_zpsu9wnztmk.jp g.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/191645_435343653171347_1302374236_o_zpsu9wnztmk.jp g.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/602508_10151227297322188_1071752761_n_zpswjbd7wka. jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/602508_10151227297322188_1071752761_n_zpswjbd7wka. jpg.html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/465397_538949969467533_672909745_o_zpsflrurdwm.jpg .html
http://s882.photobucket.com/user/apete18/media/465397_538949969467533_672909745_o_zpsflrurdwm.jpg .html

This car has won 3 State Khanacross titles, 2 junior titles and multiple club event wins
It is currently my daily driver, but still gets raced at the odd club round.

The ride and feel through the front end is exceptional compared to standard shocks, you may experience slight pull one way seeing as the castor is exceptionally hard to get identical on both sides but the handling advantages more than make up for this.

Driving your Magna with this setup is quite different to driving other cars, learning left-foot braking is key, they pivot wonderfully around the rear wheels in tight corners and are very happy to slide and move around at speed. This setup rewards commitment, it is very confidence inspiring as long as the throttle is planted, it tends to love early braking and pulling through corners on the throttle with a light drag of left-foot braking. Flicking the rear end works very well for setup into corners, the long mass of wagon behind the rear axle is beneficial in terms of throwing it around, slapping the rear side to side down a tarmac or gravel road can be done with suprising ease.

when did you build it apete

interesting mod to the front shocks

It was purchased for $500 about 5 years ago, the strut mods were done after it cracked a windscreen from chassis flex about 4 years ago. castor bushes weren't installed until a few months after that but made an enormous difference. it has been a sort of work in progress, replacing things as they break. I only just had the inserts rebuilt, and had to make another strut up so decided to make a post on how to do it. I was driving around on standard front shocks but with the good springs for a month and couldn't believe how much of a boat it felt compared to this setup.

The only thing I haven't mentioned is engine mounts, the front one was a fairly common size in eurathane but the rear was harder to find. Turns out one of the diff bushes out of a Pajero fits perfectly.