Hello all, I am building a TM Magna rally car and need to get more from the standard 2.6 carburetor engine. Any idea's/help would be great :cool:

A first gen rally car, hmm thatld be interesting. I know my old colt handled better on the dirt than what my TP and thats saying something :confused:

As for more power; carb upgrade, some form of CAI, extractors, exhaust, some more compression+cam grind maybe (not sure how to do that..TM-SE-RED???), tuning to run off premium and if you really want to spend some money forced induction :)

let me know how much u are willing to spend and how serious u are and ill tell u exactly wat u want. do u want to go the turbo path or stay N/A and just get some big N/A power.

i replaced the stock magna carb with a weber from a 4.1L XF falcon. there is a good start. although, a rally car wanting to rev alot etc u may want to do a twin carb setup. i know up here in townsville there is a twin carb intake manifold to suit the 1st gen magna (TM,TN,TP carbs) u can get from one of the performance places. (i customed my manifold to do this). i also put in a mild cam and skimmed the head to make compression higher. it was quick, but still not as quick as i wanted. it wasnt 16 second material but hey, $1000 more and i wouldve almost bin there with exhaust/headers.

but yeah, let me know wat the budget is and if u want the car still roadworthy etc etc... id love to help out someone else with a TM :D

How much did the weber from the XF Falcon cost all up to get it in your car and what kind of power gains did you get?

How much did the weber from the XF Falcon cost all up to get it in your car and what kind of power gains did you get?

the XF carb cost me $50
head skim 10 thou - $60
regrind stock cam to mild cam specs - $140
open air circular filter to suit XF carb - $70
full tune - $75
custom intake manifold - $40 (for a bottle of jim beam for this guys die grinder)

prices are off the top of my head, but u can read all about it here.

Full Story For TM-SE-RED (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8122)

alot of ppl have found it interesting. i was wondering if an admin could make it a sticky? and or make a tech section, cause i can do a fair few writeups to go into it. but yeah, have a read.

brendan

A first gen rally car, hmm thatld be interesting. I know my old colt handled better on the dirt than what my TP and thats saying something :confused:

As for more power; carb upgrade, some form of CAI, extractors, exhaust, some more compression+cam grind maybe (not sure how to do that..TM-SE-RED???), tuning to run off premium and if you really want to spend some money forced induction :)


Unless you want to be sucking dirt, scrap the CAI idea. Not suited for this application.

hard front susp, in the motorkhana i did and just general hill hooning soft is not good at all, all i have to add

Unless you want to be sucking dirt, scrap the CAI idea. Not suited for this application.

bonnet scoop and/or bonnet vents with an open air circular filter should b fine on the carby. as long as he still have the stone deflectors underneath the engine so the dirt isnt flicked UP into the engine bay i do not c any problems with having a bonnet scoop etc like ive just said

hard front susp, in the motorkhana i did and just general hill hooning soft is not good at all, all i have to add


yeah, stiffer the suspension the better. having the car lowered aswell, with a rear sway bar and strut brace with some decent sized mags on it. maybe 16" minimum?. the all round disc brakes are pretty good too.

Yeah the larger carb with extractors+exhaust and bonnet scoop makes a huge difference, I havent noticed the higher compression because Ive got a 9.0:1 TS engine, but it should be noticable.

Where can you get new cams for the Astron II? I want something to give more power between 2000-4000.

Sway bars make the car handle a lot better, same with the brakes, definatley worth the $$$.

With the scoop, Ive got a large stainless pipe directing the air straight to the filter, not a great power gain but acceleration seems smoother, spesh on warmer days.

yeah, stiffer the suspension the better. having the car lowered aswell, with a rear sway bar and strut brace with some decent sized mags on it. maybe 16" minimum?. the all round disc brakes are pretty good too.

Rally car, no mags. Unless your some rich boy, u dont want to be replacing rims after every event. 15 inchers with a wide track would be sufficient, any bigger and the tyres wont be big enough to absorb the bumps/rocks (dont have to be mags, because youll need a few spares with different types of tyres anyway), and depending on the track surface i would rethink lowering. If its dirt track, scrap lowering, just go for some heavy duty springs and shockers. If you are going to lower it, i suggest changing the bump stops to suit the setup, or else youll be bouncing them every minute if you lower the car and take it rallying.

Where can you get new cams for the Astron II? I want something to give more power between 2000-4000.


here in adelaide they had them at sprint autoparts and autobahn, any crow cams distro will sell em

Where can you get new cams for the Astron II? I want something to give more power between 2000-4000.

a mild cam gives slightly increased performance between 2000 and 5000. this is the closest to want u want. it will want to keep pulling to redline aswell, instead of sorta dying off after 5000rpm which im sure u can feel. i have a stock cam back in my car atm and i can definately tell a difference

yeah, stiffer the suspension the better. having the car lowered aswell, with a rear sway bar and strut brace with some decent sized mags on it. maybe 16" minimum?. the all round disc brakes are pretty good too.
Also you would have to go custom strut brace as the stupid gen1s dont have the mounting bolts for them.
And i thought that all magnas had all round disc's any way, or are u talkin after market


here in adelaide they had them at sprint autoparts and autobahn, any crow cams distro will sell em

Also repco do them, they have many in range like swap overs, race, mild etcetc

Also you would have to go custom strut brace as the stupid gen1s dont have the mounting bolts for them.
And i thought that all magnas had all round disc's any way, or are u talkin after market

Also repco do them, they have many in range like swap overs, race, mild etcetc

nah i was saying that the 1st gens had all round discs stock and are fine to handle abit of power. they handled my hill runs fine anyway.

RPW sell strut braces for the 1st gen im pretty sure. thats who i was gunna get mine off eventually, if i decided i wanted one.

nah i was saying that the 1st gens had all round discs stock and are fine to handle abit of power. they handled my hill runs fine anyway.

RPW sell strut braces for the 1st gen im pretty sure. thats who i was gunna get mine off eventually, if i decided i wanted one.
hmm that interesting i wouldnt mind one too but how is it bolted up then?? might have to look in to it then

A first gen rally car, hmm thatld be interesting. I know my old colt handled better on the dirt than what my TP and thats saying something :confused:

He he, I used to own a colt and christ I had sum fun in it!!!!! Sum how couldn't kill it tho lol
They throw out a great little doughie!! And handbrakies were always a blast.

Wouldn't dream of doing that to my TP tho.

The tp's have a very soft suspension, hence the reason for the crappy handling in the dirt.

Well a tm rally car would be a sight so when ya get some photies post em up for all of us to see!

Get a feeling I may know trendacts mrs too, think I may have went to school with her lol.

why would anyone base a rally car on a FWD with a live axle rear end, like a magna or toyota starlet :nuts:
If you intend to compete seriously then you would be much better off using a car with IRS.
An SV21 camry or FWD corolla would make a good cheap base for a rally car and import performance motors are available off the shelf.

Suspension wise
Lowered suspension is for the street or track. your going to get underbody damage in a lowered rally car unless you fit heavy bash plates under the car.
I have previously fitted a set of Pedders heavy duty raised springs and shocks. Heavy duty sway bars and K-mac camber/caster adjusters in a V6 VN commodore wagon. This setup could tow over 2 tonne at 100kph like no other wagon or sedan I have driven. It was also very good on dirt at speed and was much less likely to be upset by corrugations. I went for 1 inch raised springs and found it had good ground clearance and suspension travel (didn't bottom out when I got it airborne off cattle grids and causeways) and very little body roll. Fitted the suspension was under $1000.
Scott Pedders hobby is rally and I think his heavy duty spec stuff is pretty good for the price.

As for engine mods I need to stay within CAMS regs for the car. Why a Magna, because it will be a challenge and I like a challenge. Will it be competitive? well I made a FWD 1975 Renualt 12 (1.2ltre) keep up and push RWD Escorts and such. It may not be a class winner but I want it to let them know it is there pushing them. The car is also for club level comp not ARC or WRC otherwise I would be building a EVO 6 or 7 (I also dont have the $100,000 o so to build a ARC level car). As for suspension it will get a full Pedders make over for rally (a little over $2,000), under body protection etc... I can change carb, cam etc.... but no turbo Vr4 motor :cry:

So far there has been some good ideas so keep them coming :)

Rubber and wheels will be from Quick Fit Tyres and we will run 14" rally rubber with 10 (min) spares with rubber for different surface and weather cond. for each rally.

I guess I just want to do what others say can not be done. If I am wrong then lesson learnt and I build something else.

here is a 1st gen carby done up -

"it was a 2.6L 5 speed, bored 40 through with ACL Duralite flat top pistons. It had Sigma manually adjustable rocker gear, chrysler 360 valves, Gemini balance shaft tensioners, massive head work, speco thomas billet camshaft, a late model sigma twin weber inlet manifold modified to fit the Magna, twin 48mm side draught dellorto carbies and a 2.5" stainless muffler. The car also had custom water piping and home-made extractors."

"Only running the standard fuel pump it would rev to 7500rpm - but Troy says it should have revved to 8500 or more with a decent pump. In 2nd gear running at 7500rpm it would do 125kmh, and the same revs in 3rd gear it could get to 175kms with 2 more gears to go! Due to the carbies being poorly tuned, the car eventually spun a bearing and cracked the head in 2 places, so Troy sold all the engine goodies and got rid of the car. He says with the right fuel and a carby tune, it may have hit 200kmh in 3rd gear."

"Troy remembers the engine to be "damn awesome". He claims to have not had any troubles with HSV's or XR6's, and he passed his mates Celica 1800 turbo intercooled in 3rd gear at 170k's and left him behind."


something to think about. this car can be found at www.fastmagna.com in the gallery section. maybe this is the sort of power increase u are after? this is an N/A carby TM with some serious balls. if u have the money, try wat this guy did.

here is a 1st gen carby done up -



Due to the carbies being poorly tuned, the car eventually spun a bearing and cracked the head in 2 places,




Dumbest thing ive heard in a while, "DUE TO CARBIES BEING POORLY TUNED - SPUN A BEARING"

:nuts:

You spin a bearing because the bottom end cant handle the RPMS. Were talking about large displacement long stroke 4 cylinders here.
Blaming the tuning for spinning a bearing :nuts:. Just because he mightve balanced and blueprinted the crankshaft doesnt mean that it can rev that high. He's gotta correct the stroke, which i havent seen in that list of mods.

edit: Actually, i read wrong, he's got a different camshaft, and hasnt done anything to the bottom end at all according to that. No wonder he spun a bearing :redface: Big expectations on factory bottom end, it didnt like spinning to 7500. Saying it would make 200kmh in 3rd gear, yeah maybe, but the bottom end will last a day doing so. Why would you need to rev it that high anyway? Is he too silly to change gears? :bowrofl: