Hay folks
My neighbors daughters car has a bit of an issue
It is a 6/97 TF (i think) manual hoping someone can help
It starts fine idles ok a little rough but nothing i would consider a problem idle revs may be a little high
the problem is when you give it a rev it bogs down and coughs and farts no backfire then revs out fine this is in neutral stopped
when driving if you use the pedal very gently it takes off sort of ok but if you accelerate normally it revs dies reves dies and then drives off kinda of kangaroo jumps hits about 3k and runs off well
it revs fine in the higher rev range but if you put your foot down at any revs it bogs down then after a few seconds frees up and goes
its like its trying to get the fuel it needs but is not getting it straight away or a gut full of air
when it runs it runs great clean smooth and very powerful
I will add it feels like the clutch my be slipping a bit
I just finished replacing all vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body and cleaned the MAF sensor also unplugged the MAF with no change I was too late to get a fuel filter supa cheap was closed

If you can bring the engine revs up smoothly in neutral with very slight throttle but it staggers or stalls with a bit more throttle, this is classic symptoms of coil failure (ie. weak spark). The coil is integral with the distributor, while it can be swapped separately it is often easier to swap the whole dizzy. If you do swap it out you'll want to put in a new o-ring in re-installation. There's no need for timing check as it only goes in one way unless badly worn. It can be a bastard to get off, once the two bolts are out just twist and wiggle and eventually it'll come out. Clean up the inside of the block and the dizzy where it goes into the block with light emery or solvent to remove any varnish and coat with a film of engine oil to make re-installation easier.

If you can bring the engine revs up smoothly in neutral with very slight throttle but it staggers or stalls with a bit more throttle, this is classic symptoms of coil failure (ie. weak spark). The coil is integral with the distributor, while it can be swapped separately it is often easier to swap the whole dizzy. If you do swap it out you'll want to put in a new o-ring in re-installation. There's no need for timing check as it only goes in one way unless badly worn. It can be a bastard to get off, once the two bolts are out just twist and wiggle and eventually it'll come out. Clean up the inside of the block and the dizzy where it goes into the block with light emery or solvent to remove any varnish and coat with a film of engine oil to make re-installation easier.

Thanks for the reply Ensoniq5
from what you are saying it is non serviceable? change out the only option I will have a look tomorrow as to where the coil pack is and chase up a secondhand part I have read that it is a real bugger to get out but the thread did not mention symptoms only that an oil leak was being fixed
much appreciated Andrew

from what you are saying it is non serviceable?
coil pack


Read his post again.
There is no coil pack, just a single coil inside the distributor.
Definitely not serviceable.

Check spark plug leads, distributor cap and for oil down the spark plug holes at the same time.

The coil isn't serviceable, it can be replaced but it's a fiddle especially if you try to do it without removing the distributor since it's incorporated into the distributor body. When mine went (same symptoms) I grabbed a complete distributor with coil from a running wreck (via Mits Fix) and just swapped it out. Yes, it can be a bugger to get out, no trick other than patient wriggling and careful levering unfortunately.

Read his post again.
There is no coil pack, just a single coil inside the distributor.
Definitely not serviceable.

Check spark plug leads, distributor cap and for oil down the spark plug holes at the same time.

Sorry Max thats the old school coming out in me lol i now understand one unit
Will do as suggested and let you know how it goes

The coil isn't serviceable, it can be replaced but it's a fiddle especially if you try to do it without removing the distributor since it's incorporated into the distributor body. When mine went (same symptoms) I grabbed a complete distributor with coil from a running wreck (via Mits Fix) and just swapped it out. Yes, it can be a bugger to get out, no trick other than patient wriggling and careful levering unfortunately.

Thanks for your patience just got it in my head they were separate like i said to max just had this picture of the old Valiant set up getting a bit senile

I have a distributor out of a 6G74 TL if you are interested. I think the 6G72 is different (if that is what a TF has)

:hmm:

Thanks for your patience just got it in my head they were separate like i said to max just had this picture of the old Valiant set up getting a bit senile

I had the same problem not long ago. At first I put a 2nd hand distributor in which helped the situtation but it was a new set of leads that sorted it fully. It still had a rough idle after that which was fixed by putting in another coil as I think running with bad leads forces the coil to produce a higher voltage which breaks down its insulation.

My leads tested within spec with a multimeter so don't think they are ok just because the resistance is ok. I ended up with a new set of genuine leads which had a much lower resistance than the used NGK leads. Bursons sells the coil for $107. You can fit it whilst on the car but will need to clean up the sealing faces and add some kind of sealant/gasket goo to keep any water/dust out. It would be easier to remove the dizzy. The o-ring groove is 44mm ID x 50mm OD x 4.8 wide. A bearing shop should be able to supply an o-ring cheaper than Mitsubishi. 44mm ID with a 3.5mm section should do.