The TL developed a cold misfire so I'm changing the set of plug leads with Denso leads.

Number 3 plug socket in the distributor cap has a lot of corrosion in, I'm hoping that is the source of the misfire. Plugs, rocker cover gaskets and plug tube seals were done 50,000 km ago, so I don't expect to need to do them yet, but there is some oil on the number 4 plug socket up near where the seal is. Hopefully redoing the torque on the rocker cover bolts will help.

The leads came with a small packet of grease, I'm guessing a small blob goes on the connectors that go into the distributor?

Damn annoying job though, just getting the leads out of the cap pretty much ruined some of them, not that I'm reusing the cap or old leads. Then pulling the leads out from the way the factory runs them under and past all the other stuff. The 380 with coil on plug and more advanced error reporting for ignition problems is much better, the third gen doesn't even throw a CEL on misfire.

Anyhow, Q: What's the grease for?

It would be dialetric grease that you apply between the spark plug & the boots. It helps to prevent spark plugs binding to the boots, prevents voltage leaks & acts to further seal the electrical connections from dust, dirt etc.

Thanks. I will do that.

The Denso leads are quite good, length wise, they are all about 1 to 2 cm longer than the originals, which makes the job a bit easier.

Got to look up torque wrench settings and put it all back together now.

EDIT: All done, bar some tidying up. Only took 6 hours. I is slow, and I likes me breaks. lol

Make sure that the leads are well supported and insulated. If not, they can flap around and eventually fatigue. I used a set of Bosch leads for a while until I eventually chucked them out. They were much longer than the NGK leads, and I found it hard to get them set so that they did not droop onto the rocker covers or other metallic parts around the engine. NGK leads are also numbered so that makes it a lot easier to set them up in the first place.

The local dealer changed the front plugs on the first service I gave him to do. They buggered the No 5 plug lead because it is too short to remove the plug without unclipping it from the support clips. I had radio static ever after. The official fix was to fit an earth strap to the bonnet, and eventually I bought a new set of leads - static all gone. Needless to say, the dealer didn't offer to repay me for the new leads.... Grrr.

Make sure that the leads are well supported and insulated. If not, they can flap around and eventually fatigue. I used a set of Bosch leads for a while until I eventually chucked them out. They were much longer than the NGK leads, and I found it hard to get them set so that they did not droop onto the rocker covers or other metallic parts around the engine. NGK leads are also numbered so that makes it a lot easier to set them up in the first place.

The local dealer changed the front plugs on the first service I gave him to do. They buggered the No 5 plug lead because it is too short to remove the plug without unclipping it from the support clips. I had radio static ever after. The official fix was to fit an earth strap to the bonnet, and eventually I bought a new set of leads - static all gone. Needless to say, the dealer didn't offer to repay me for the new leads.... Grrr.

Yep, I've had some past experience with cross firing between plug leads and leads moving about, and being damaged by vibrating against sharp metal edges.
Fortunately the plug leads are supported on various places, just need to press the leads into those supports.
The front set can touch the edge of the cylinder head, but there are two support bits that can be replaced there so the support itself touched the edge, and not the leads.
The rear leads, where they pass under the throttle body similarly have a cradle like device to support and protect the leads.
For anyone thinking about doing this job, have a really good look at where those supports are, and make sure they go back in the same place on the new leads.

Actually, it is my own fault the leads needed replacing. When I did the rocker cover and plug seals 2 years/50,000 km ago, I simply lifted the inlet off the rear head without disconnecting the throttle body and suspended it from the bonnet. Gave me just enough room to do the rear head, but when I lowered the manifold back down, one of the rear leads got tangled and pulled out of the distributor, leaving the metal end of the plug lead in the distributor cap. I just pushed it back in, hoping for the best, but over the years that joint broke down and caused the misfire. Lot of corrosion and burn marks at the end of that lead and in the distributor cap.
So much for shortcuts. lol

Seeing they were the original leads dated 2003 I replaced the whole lot, the rest would be brittle and most likely damaged by the remove/replace process anyway. The new leads were slightly longer, but the 1-2 cm excess is now at the distributor.

I know what you say about the number 5 (6?) plug, no room to pull it out unless you unclip the lead.

(rear bank are 1,3,5 counting from the driver's side, front bank are 2,4,6. Rule is, with a rear wheel drive, the number 1 piston is on the front of an inline engine, or on the left bank of a "V" engine. Rotate 90 degrees clockwise for a transverse engine. lol))

I know what you say about the number 5 (6?) plug, no room to pull it out unless you unclip the lead.

(rear bank are 1,3,5 counting from the driver's side, front bank are 2,4,6. Rule is, with a rear wheel drive, the number 1 piston is on the front of an inline engine, or on the left bank of a "V" engine. Rotate 90 degrees clockwise for a transverse engine. lol))


Madmax:
Sorry - I couldn't remember the numbering - it has been 3 years since I had the TF magna. Cross firing is not normally a problem with the Magna because they use 7 mm dia HT leads. The Pajeros use 5 mm leads and they break down easily, especially if you are using LPG as well. I used to close the gap on the spark plugs by 0.1 mm to allow for erosion and heat , because of the extra heat generated by the LPG. I also used a plug 1 grade colder than Mits recommended to compensate for the extra heat. It all worked out in the end - I finally got it right and then moved out into a diesel Pajero and a petrol Outlander, neither of which are remotely like the Magna. The Magna was an excellent, under-rated car.

The Magna was an excellent, under-rated car.

Amen to that.