I bought a set of Japanese alloys, but when fitting found there was not enough thread on my studs for my liking. Before I decide whether to get rid of the wheels or not thought I would check in regard to longer studs.


I reckon there is next to no demand for extended Wheel studs for a magna, so the option is to use lancer Evo studs maybe??
Are magna studs the same as Evo studs?

Also anyone know what is the length of a standard TH stud?

Usually the wheel nuts for alloys are of a much deeper/longer design than the nuts used to hold on steel wheels due to the much thicker design of alloys.
You might want to look at getting different wheel nuts instead.

Anyhow, what do you mean by "there was not enough thread on my studs for my liking"? How many turns does a nut do before it is hard up against the alloy?

Pictures? I think what you need are nuts that insert in the holes for non-tapered seats. When you say japanese do you mean from a Jap diamante. I'd be correcting this sooner than later. may be unsafe and those wheels may not be centred or secured correctly if you've used tapered instead of the correct ones. never heard of extended studs just to fit alloys before.

Unfitted the stud will be 43-45mm and it's the same stud across the range and across a large number of other mits platforms.

http://cn.oemol.com/oemfileup/2007gongg/2010813152403.jpg

http://www.dunkan.com.ua/im/parts/mr455707.jpg

Those are the wheel nuts I'm using on my TJ alloys, and they are fine.

Hopefully you are not trying to use nuts for steel wheels on the alloys. The fit of the proper wheel nuts for alloys is different to the steel wheel ones, use those on alloys and you risk cracking them.

(The alloy wheel nuts pictured above have a taper on the end so they are ok to use on a steel spare - just looks silly though. lol)

[QUOTE=TW2005;1632308]Unfitted the stud will be 43-45mm and it's the same stud across the range and across a large number of other mits platforms.

Those studs have been used on Mitsus all the way back from the first Galant, IIRC.

[QUOTE=TW2005;1632308]Unfitted the stud will be 43-45mm and it's the same stud across the range and across a large number of other mits platforms.

Those studs have been used on Mitsus all the way back from the first Galant, IIRC.

yeah, I'm just wondering how many threads are holding this wheel on.I don't think those threads extend very far at all when that alloy wheel nut is needed

It seems like the op is using standard run of the mill wheel nuts and not the recessed nuts that Mitsubishi need with all their alloys. Case closed.

yeah, I'm just wondering how many threads are holding this wheel on.I don't think those threads extend very far at all when that alloy wheel nut is needed

Just count the number of full turns needed to seat the alloy wheel nut home. From my experience with alloys and those nuts, it is quite a few. At a guess, very similar to the steel wheel/wheel nut combination.

It seems like the op is using standard run of the mill wheel nuts and not the recessed nuts that Mitsubishi need with all their alloys. Case closed.

Big mistake! With my alloys, the studs barely stick out of the wheel, you might get 1 or 2 turns of the steel wheel nut before it contacts the metal.
(I can't imagine anyone doing that though. It would explain why he wants longer studs though. lol)

Not a problem with the nuts as I am using proper alloy wheel nuts and have fitted a number of other sets of aftermarket wheels without drama's.

Also I am not using them at moment as it is definately not safe.


It is just this one set in particular where I have had a drama.

There is the 'tunnel' let's call it where the body of nuts is inserted, then this tunnel will taper in at some point where an acorn nut will seat itself and hold the rim on, if that makes sense.
With this set of wheels that tapered section is only a very short way down the 'tunnel' so the nut is basically in the seated position, say 50mm away from the back face of the rim (for example, as I haven't measured exactly). By comparison other sets of alloys I have tried will have that tapered part only 40mm from the back face of rim.

Factory alloys like steel wheels require the flat washer type. Aftermarket alloys required the tapered type. I am assuming the OP is using factory nuts on aftermarket alloys, hence the nut is not going in far enough and possibly due to the aftermarket wheels having holes that are smaller than the washers.

Factory alloys like steel wheels require the flat washer type. Aftermarket alloys required the tapered type. I am assuming the OP is using factory nuts on aftermarket alloys, hence the nut is not going in far enough and possibly due to the aftermarket wheels having holes that are smaller than the washers.

Sounds like the OP needs to track down the right wheel nuts for the alloys he has.