Hi guys just on this hot sunny day heard the brakes grinding bad! Bought new and checked there's no pad left :/ I know I'm a bad owner. My question is the piston a push back or twist back ?
Thanks in advance

Push back.

Awesome thanks for that on the hunt for g clamp

Yep, a G-clamp with one of the old pads works a charm.

Hi guys just on this hot sunny day heard the brakes grinding bad! Bought new and checked there's no pad left :/ I know I'm a bad owner. My question is the piston a push back or twist back ?
Thanks in advance

If there is a big difference in the pads, like one is totally down to the metal, while the other side has 3 or 4 mm left, you may need to lube the slide pins. Better yet, pop out the piston and clean out the rubber debris in there. If the "G" clamp has problems moving the piston, you know it needs cleaning out.
It can lead to the piston hanging up in use, causing excessive pad wear and wasting petrol.

I simply use a flat bladed screwdriver or two between the pad and disc, and gently lever until the piston is retracted. Bleed valve open so the grotty brake fluid sprays out - or use a clear plastic tube. Before any disassembly work, of course.

What is the other side of the car like?
(Pads are changed in a set of 4 in case you didn't know.)

Better yet, pop out the piston and clean out the rubber debris in there. If the "G" clamp has problems moving the piston, you know it needs cleaning out.
It can lead to the piston hanging up in use, causing excessive pad wear and wasting petrol.


Would changing the brake fluid every 2 years as per the manual negate the need to do this? I always get a bit of dark fluid out when changing it.

Would changing the brake fluid every 2 years as per the manual negate the need to do this? I always get a bit of dark fluid out when changing it.

I never change the brake fluid regularly, so I don't know.
I do know that in a 10 year old Magna which has never had its fluid changed, enough grot accumulates at the lowest point in the calliper bore to need a good cleanout. Seeing the brake bleeding nipple is high up, I doubt if a fluid change would shift it. Hence when I change brake pads, I open the nipple when I push the piston back, lot of dirty fluid squirts out.
Helps to also suck the master cylinder out with a syringe, and squirt fresh fluid in forcibly with the syringe to lift that layer of rubber debris off the bottom.