As the title suggests pretty much. Chasing the right side engine mount

Well it all comes down to what you want? genuine, quality aftermarket or unknown . pretty much the cost will be left to right highest to lowest. generally you'll get what you pay for but maybe decide on brands and go from there. I'd expect $100-130 I know of mackay, kelpro, transgold I've seen but no idea. yet to do mine. I think MITSFIX had something too in that range.

Genuine I'd be guessing but guessing $250 +

I love online but being in darwin it's the only way to save.

The reason I want genuine is because genuine works well. Have heard some aftermarket mounts are made of extremely firm rubber and transfer way too much vibration. I want smooth as silk and so far stock has proven that, but my mount has been cracked for a while so it's gotta be replaced

The reason I want genuine is because genuine works well. Have heard some aftermarket mounts are made of extremely firm rubber and transfer way too much vibration. I want smooth as silk and so far stock has proven that, but my mount has been cracked for a while so it's gotta be replaced

Then Dealer or AMAYAMA but with the exchange rates now it may be close. sorry missed the genuine in the title. $210 + shipping. You'd have to check this number MR244457 but should be right.

Not related to this thread but I will ask anyway?

How do people manage to break engine mounts? Lots of bumpy roads with huge potholes so the engine is trying to jump out of the engine bay? Too many full throttle starts? Drag racing?

Not related to this thread but I will ask anyway?

How do people manage to break engine mounts? Lots of bumpy roads with huge potholes so the engine is trying to jump out of the engine bay? Too many full throttle starts? Drag racing?

wear and tear, they deteriorate over time.

Rockauto ......

wear and tear, they deteriorate over time.

Rubber seems to be both a blessing and a curse in automotive design.
On one hand its brilliant at absorbing shock, but on the other it degrades even when doing nohing.
Speaking of which, does anyone know what happens to the energy that rubber absorbs, especially vibration, how does it shed it?

^^^ The energy would dissipate through vibrational decay, given that rubber acts as an energy absorber in this application.

For every action there's an equal and opposite reaction

I'm no expert but I imagine that all material particles act in a somewhat similar fashion with vibration in that energy passes into them and then out to its neighboring particle, however the particle also 'bounces back' and that bouncing back takes away some of its energy. Rigid materials like steel don't shift very much at all, and as such don't bounce back as much, they transfer more energy
Rubber shifts around more, when it bounces back each particle takes away more energy from the initial shock wave going through it because it has to snap back further.
An extreme example would be jelly. It wobbles around a hell of a lot and that wobbling takes energy, it gets its energy from whatever pokes or shakes it. If its at rest there's energy being put into it so thus it doesn't just wobble around by itself.
So if you held a ceramic plate in your hand and tapped the top of the empty plate with your other finger you'd feel almost all of the energy transferred into your other hand. Place some jelly on the plate and tap the jelly, the jelly will wobble a lot and give a visual indicator that thats where most of the energy is, you would feel very little or nothing in your other hand

I don't believe rubber is a super special magic compound, it just has characteristics that sit somewhere between say jelly (which would absorb loads of vibration but is pathetically weak) and something very rigid like steel (which is very strong but doesn't shift around much and hence transfers way too much energy)

This is the rockauto listing https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475994&jnid=2&jpid=0 am I to assume that is a genuine mitsubishi part and not some OEM equiv aftermarket one?
They list it as $195AUD posted. Local Mits dealer is $291

This is the rockauto listing https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475994&jnid=2&jpid=0 am I to assume that is a genuine mitsubishi part and not some OEM equiv aftermarket one?
They list it as $195AUD posted. Local Mits dealer is $291

I would ask but I'm going to say no as it's Beck Arnley. Picture is probably just for illustration.

generally speaking most of the genuine Diamante parts are more expensive in the US.

This is the rockauto listing https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=475994&jnid=2&jpid=0 am I to assume that is a genuine mitsubishi part and not some OEM equiv aftermarket one?
They list it as $195AUD posted. Local Mits dealer is $291

I bought these and they've been fine.

What is fine? Imperceptibly the same as OEM?
I'd rather pay the extra cost for OEM if it means a smoother running engine

As to the question about how the energy is absorbed and dissipated by rubber. The answer is that the vibration energy is turned into heat. Energy cannot be destroyed, only stored or converted. It's a locked loop. If you burn the wood from a tree you might think that the energy within has been destroyed but that's not so...it's been released as heat. The heat will then be released into the environment to be absorbed in other ways.

I ended up buying a Kelpro MT9266 mount from Repco for about $150. I've left it for too long and suspected I may need to replace the left side mount at some point, it's got a tiny split in it.
Anyhow, if there is any increase in vibration over stock I can't feel it. It's as smooth as I ever remember so i'm happy with that

How many km on the motor?

Also, how smooth is it?
I am not sure if we are to expect these motors to be silky smooth but mine certainly isn't. It is smoother than a 4 cylinder (not the newer German 4 cylinders) but you can still feel the motor slightly.
It is less smooth than a 6 cylinder Mercedes of the same era for example but I guess that is to be expected.

180,000km it's a KF. This'll give you an idea of the condition it's in

http://s10.postimg.org/7dyft7ky1/qwerty1.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/bblpim7rd/qwerty2.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/jv9ou45hl/qwerty3.jpg

http://s10.postimg.org/w0yw4ik7d/Camera_ZOOM_20140101172258142.jpg


If I sit and think about it, I can feel a slight bit of vibration and characteristic stumble when its in Drive with the brake applied and the AC on. Remove any of those variables and any vibration is nearly imperceptible. I have to try really hard to find any, even at full throttle

I bought one today at Bursons $150 which looks genuine and they say it is OEM replacement, interestingly a local supplier that advertise cheap parts that I have found to be always good could only do $155 for what definitely looked non genuine (the rubber wasn't even the right shape), but then they were $50 cheaper for a timing belt tensioner (NTN in the box) so shop around I'd say.

Do you guys just replace a single engine mount though?
It'd be nice to do all 4 but it becomes cost prohibitive

So many people replace the right side mount but leave the trans mount thus there is too much weight on the roll stops

On a car of this age really all mounts should have been replaced, I sell good quality aftermarket mounts for $99.95, they are stiffer than the OEM however also do not fall apart like many of the cheap aftermarket ones.

Mal, when you say all mounts do you include the roll stoppers?
Their condition would have a fairly big impact on NVH transmitted into the cabin.

And are you able to sell mounts that are not stiffer than OEM?

Mal, when you say all mounts do you include the roll stoppers?
Their condition would have a fairly big impact on NVH transmitted into the cabin.

And are you able to sell mounts that are not stiffer than OEM?
Hi Spetz, I had the tranny mount replaced by a Mits dealership here and the guy doing it compketely f'd it up; damaged the trans housing (dropped the engine on it with scratching and gouging to the housing) pinched a vacuum hose to the cruise control which eventually failed, installed the mount incorrectly and tore the drive shaft boot. Let me drive off and at about 30kmh there was a terrible vibration. Turns out the mount was installed incorrectly as well.

I think there is less clearance around that mount on the AWD, so extra care is needed.

Anyhow, after getting it all sorted there was less N&V but I did learn a few things;
Firstly the AWD has a lot more overall N&V than the FWD and nothing can be done about that, its just that the AWD has the TC and driveshaft contributing to the N&V,
Secondly, dont "fix" something unless its actually broken,
Thirdly make certain the guy doing it knows what they're doing and just being a Mits dealership proves nothing.
Mal knows what he's doing.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/749/23323366099_95a6a362c2_c.jpg

Thought my Engine mount was bad - it was TOAST - going to have to check and maybe replace the others..... 180,000km out of the original is pretty good I reckon.

Which mount is that? Driver side?
And how bad did it look prior to removing it?

My drivers side engine mount was completely split through, when I removed it a slight wiggle was all that was needed to seperate it into 2 pieces. When I installed the new mount there was a 20-25mm gap where the engine had been sitting lower. Despite that I simply installed the new mount, jacked the engine up a bit higher and tightened down on it using the center bolt (I presume thats what its there for)

The mount is obviously doing its job. I don't know how much vibration these engines typically have, but when its idling I can see the engine itself moving just a little bit and if I put my hand on it I can feel it rocking slightly. Yet if I put my hand on the chassis or just sit in the car, zero perceivable vibration.
I imagine quality control on these engines is quite good, and as such cranks are typically pretty well balanced. So for those who say their car isn't all that smooth, what else could cause noticeable vibration? Worn drive shafts I suppose?
Mine is absolutely smooth as butter, smoother than any 4 cyl by a mile. Infact its the smoothest car i've been in, including BMW's, merc's etc. I can hear a little reverberation in the cabin when driving but I can't feel it. May as well be an electric car

I did have my suspension checked the other day by fulcrums under the assumption that maybe I need some new bushings, ball joints etc but nope everything was extremely good. Strangely enough the annoying suspension squeak is no longer present since changing the engine mount. May just be a coincidence but hopefully it doesn't come back

Which mount is that? Driver side?
And how bad did it look prior to removing it?

Drivers side, I could see that it wasn't sitting centered in the mount frame and the car was starting to get the "wobbles" at certain speeds (like a misfire) I just didn't know it was that bad - test drove today after also doing a Timing Belt tensioner change (the ebay non names are rubbish) and Huge improvement.

My drivers side engine mount was completely split through, when I removed it a slight wiggle was all that was needed to seperate it into 2 pieces. When I installed the new mount there was a 20-25mm gap where the engine had been sitting lowerpe everything was extremely good. Strangely enough the annoying suspension squeak is no longer present k

100% the same here the suspension noise also went away - I wonder if the roll stop bushes are being overloaded when the engine moves so far up and down.

My drivers side engine mount was completely split through, when I removed it a slight wiggle was all that was needed to seperate it into 2 pieces. When I installed the new mount there was a 20-25mm gap where the engine had been sitting lowerpe everything was extremely good. Strangely enough the annoying suspension squeak is no longer present k

100% the same here the suspension noise also went away - I wonder if the roll stop bushes are being overloaded when the engine moves so far up and down.