Hey guys,

Some of you might have seen my previous thread about my broken clutch fork (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105989).

I've dropped the gearbox and replaced the fork. While I did that I replaced my old axles.

Drove it this morning about 10 metres, but then lost all forward motion.

Key points below:

Selecting gears ok
Drive wheels move while in gear off the ground, engine running
Drive wheels don't move under own weight
Slight grinding noise coming from gearbox
Clutch appears to be working ok


Have I possibly damaged something in my gearbox/diff?

Cheers,

Martin

Hey guys,

Some of you might have seen my previous thread about my broken clutch fork (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105989).

I've dropped the gearbox and replaced the fork. While I did that I replaced my old axles.

Drove it this morning about 10 metres, but then lost all forward motion.

Key points below:

Selecting gears ok
Drive wheels move while in gear off the ground, engine running
Drive wheels don't move under own weight
Slight grinding noise coming from gearbox
Clutch appears to be working ok


Have I possibly damaged something in my gearbox/diff?

Cheers,

Martin

Are the old axles still usable? Did you compare the splines? i wonder if you have the wrong shafts? probably not possible to fit the wrong ones but I honestly don't know unless the diff is busted? They are inserted in all the way until the snap ring locks?

Was it all good before the shafts?

TR
SPLINE EXT * INT * SEAL mm
4cyl 25* 26* 54

6cyl 27 *26 *60

Thanks mate, all cv joints match up - tried old ones too and same result

Release fluid pressure in the clutch system and see if that temporarily restores drive - just open the slave cylinder valve a bit, let fluid spurt out.

Thanks MadMax, just did that this morning and also rebled. No luck. I am now wondering if the new fork is not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

Might try unbolting the clutch slave and if its that, shortening the striker.. cheers!

I am now wondering if the new fork is not allowing the clutch to fully disengage.

Im thinking that if you had drive briefly right at the start but no power under weight, but power with the wheels hanging, then your on the money there, the clutch isnt disnegaging.
The brief drive was enough to cause it to slip and smooth off its friction surface, now there isnt enough pressure on it to transfer power against the wheels when weight loaded.
Check to make sure the fork is the correct one, maybe there is diffferent variants in the second gens? Eg, like the difference between a push and pull type clutch fork.
Also, make sure the fork is engaged with the throw out bearing correctly, and that the bearing is installed the correct way.

Hey guys, me again. So I unhooked the slave cylinder and some pressure was released off the fork, but still getting the same symptoms.

Even when I start it in gear there's nothing except for a soft grinding noise.

Getting very much over it by this point - any further ideas welcome.

Im thinking that if you had drive briefly right at the start but no power under weight, but power with the wheels hanging, then your on the money there, the clutch isnt disnegaging.
The brief drive was enough to cause it to slip and smooth off its friction surface, now there isnt enough pressure on it to transfer power against the wheels when weight loaded.
Check to make sure the fork is the correct one, maybe there is diffferent variants in the second gens? Eg, like the difference between a push and pull type clutch fork.
Also, make sure the fork is engaged with the throw out bearing correctly, and that the bearing is installed the correct way.

Thanks mate, I think that's it! The new fork was the superseded OEM replacement and visually looked very similar to the original. Not keen on dropping the GB again but it may be my only option..

Thanks mate, I think that's it! The new fork was the superseded OEM replacement and visually looked very similar to the original. Not keen on dropping the GB again but it may be my only option..

Sounds like the clutch is permanently disengaged.

Before ripping into it, try:
(1) Check that the release lever where it sticks out of the gearbox window is sitting right in the middle of the window. If the lever is hard up against one end of that window without you touching it, there is a problem.
If in the middle - check that it has some freeplay, ie it is easy to move a couple of mm by hand before the release bearing touches the pressure plate.

(2) Visually inspect the release bearing and fork for correct assembly through that window, torch and mirror needed.

(3) Check you have assembled the gear linkage cables correctly, you may have it in neutral when you think it is in gear.

I did a clutch on a 4 cylinder TS, ended up pulling the gearbox off twice because the new parts and the old parts didn't work well together. Needed 2 X 2mm washers under the ball to get the original ball and release lever working correctly with the new clutch plate and pressure plate.

Hi guys,

Ended up losing patience and bought a soarer. Now scrapping the car and getting it taken away this week - if you're looking for parts check out my thread here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106181

Ended up losing patience and bought a soarer.

Fair enough, thanks for the update.

I came close to scrapping my TS manual doing the same clutch job and striking lots of problems.