Followed manual direction to remove door handles...

Once I got the barrel out of the handle I used the fine jewellers screwdrivers (cheap from 2$ shop) to wedge out the lugs crimping the cap over the barrel housing. Doing it gently and it's easile reused, crimped back on with a small hammer. (Look how the spring holds the key latch in place, easy to reassemble. Put the little latch in the guides on the cap thing and replace the main cap. Crimp.)

Extracted the inner barrel and (take care to not loose any of the tumblers/springs. They stay put if the key is in and tend not to go anywhere with it out, but it can happen.) soaked in degreaser (because I made the mistake of using oil to lubricate them. Always use graphite) aand then in metho.

Then clampoed a hacksawe blade backside up. With the key in, rest the protruding tumbler on hacxksaw blade to stop it from retracting when filing. With a fine file file the protrusions down. First one side, then the other.

See diagram:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c168/yanndee/lock_zpsvnpler6s.jpg

Wash out the brass dust and lubricate (with graphite) test in barrel housing. When turning good, reassemble.

Used :

file

drill press clamp, hacksaw blade

compressed air (to blow dut out, dry, clean...

jewellers mini screwdrivers

3 hoiurs both doors.

_________

Sweet. Can't remember the last time the doorlocks worked so good.


add* Not only were the barrels old, I also at the same time as getting a new key cut lubricated the locks with oil. I figure that new key with its sharpness, and being cut off an old worn key plus the oil acting as a cutting oil hastened the wear of the brass tumblers so they started to project too far into the lock space and started to jam. I needed to file down about five of the tumblers by about 1/2 a mil with the key in place to make the barrel turn ok.

It is definitely not a good idea to use oil. Always use a dry lubricant like graphite and clean the barrel out with metho. It is probably a good idea to smooth any small irregularities on a new key to lessen the risk of them acting like a file on the brass tumblers.

As I'm working my way through a second barrel, (so may things to f up, I wouldn't recommend it unless you've got spares), I note how the oil has dried/congealed and likely caused the wafers to stick and as a result be more resistant to movement when the key is taken in and out thus hastening wear. Prob another good reason to never use anything but dry lubricant like graphite to lubricate a lock.

If a key lock gets sticky or hard to take the key, and don't want to remove/dismantle, a good squirt of silicone lube will shift the grot. Just run the key in and out, wiping the dirty lube off in between.

If the barrel is worn to the extent that the wavers (tumblers ?) tilt over, you an always get some locks from the wreckers and transfer the springs and tumblers over.

Of course, leaving the tumblers and springs right out makes it real easy to use the lock, but then even a screwdriver will open the car.
(The old Sigma had a lock on the fuel flap, but no tumblers in it - you could open it with a screwdriver. Pity the petrol thief didn't know that before he bent the little door stealing my petrol years ago. Still. if you are a teenager with a minibike and no money, where else do you get petrol from? lol)